I was just wondering if anyone has had to change theirs for any reason, ho w many miles were you at and if you did, did you stay stock or change to a different plug, which kind and why.

I was at the track last Fri. and on my last run, i noticed my engine running a little weird, and midway through the run, the ses light came on and stayed on, turned out to be a P0300, random cylinder misfire, idle was off a bit, and i could just tell she was hurting a bit, i pulled the plugs and they are all burned pretty good, and the one closest to the driver was shot. I called mitsu, and they were 23 bucks per, AMS had for 17 per, I stay ed stock cuz i didnt know of anything else to get, and after I put them in ses light didnt go away, only after a good few solid easy drives to and from work, did the light finally clear itself, i would say maybe 3o to 40 miles driven on new plugs to get ecu to recognize no misfire issues. :) By the way she only has 6800 miles on her, thats also why I wanted to know anybody elses miles, to see if I just pushed her to hard or if this was a common time frame,miles wise.

I changed mine after i got it tuned. For 35XX miles, the plugs were fouled pretty bad, but i didnt have any missfire codes.

Looking at the AFRs that people are getting on a stock car, all it would take to foul the plugs is a few launches. Your combustion temps dont get hot enough stock to remove all the fuel dumped in during midrange only pulls/launches "factory 2-step"

Looking at the AFRs that people are getting on a stock car, all it would take to foul the plugs is a few launches. +1

Stories like these is why I'm considering a set of these spark plugs:

http://perrinperformance.com/shared/images/products/631/1330_large.jpg

http://perrinperformance.com/products/show/631/Spark-Plugs-BRISK-Silver-Racing-?category=4&model=26

The Brisk part number that has an equivilent heat range for our stock plugs (ILKR8E6) is ER12S, one step colder would be ER10S. The ones Perrin is selling for our cars is "BRSK-MR10S", and I've been waiting for them to get back to me to tell me if this is the same plug number Brisk is recommending ("ER" opposed to their "MR"). Sounds like Perrin is selling the one step colder plugs.

Does anyone make 1 step colder plugs yet?

You have to reset your ecu to get rid of your ses light. If you don't manually reset it then it will reset by itself after 5 ignition cycles, meaning starting your car five times.

What kind of times did you run at the track?

Darwin, let me know what they say about the code for one step colder on those brisk plugs.

i was running low 13's, i was haveing a bad night, my reaction time was off, i missed 3rd twice trying to shift to fast, and the last drag i felt the problem and ran a 13.98, and the ses came on and she started acting up.

i figure now from previous statements that i believe my launches and continuance drag nights is the colpret, i still need a tune, im just waiting on AMS to release the dual tip so I can complete setup before tune.

With stage 2 cobb should I get different plugs? If so, what?

no not needed.

The general rule is for every 100 WHP over stock you generate in boosted apps, you should go 1 step colder in heat range. That being said, these are succeptible to fouling, but they do raise the knock threshold.

Jeff

Hey man, when you going to the track again? Im really tryin to head up there. I got your message way late last week. Take care of your car of course, but if im not already havin sumthing planned (which i do already for this weekend more than likely) hit me up.

The general rule is for every 100 WHP over stock you generate in boosted apps, you should go 1 step colder in heat range. That being said, these are succeptible to fouling, but they do raise the knock threshold.

Jeff

I wonder how much I've gained. I haven't been able to dyno before and after. I thought I would be barely over 300whp at this point?? Thanks for the rule of thumb.

yay 100 posts....<<<< ------i tend to lurk....:offtopic:

lol! your not on here much man, why i met you like 6 months ago, were you deployed or something?

Those plugs should have been a sigh that your motor was about to blow. You shouldn't have misfires on a healthy motor. The overboost destroyed your plugs and then your motor. So sad....sorry man.

I need to go one step colder now. Which ones should I get? Anyone got a link? I was thinking same brand as stock, but what would everyone suggest?

Memphis with the low blow.. Ouch

Memphis with the one two to my chin, lol and the knock out blow on my Blown Up!!! thread!!!,lol

^LOL

hey guys.. just a friendly warning .. I'll post the pics later

The stock plugs broke after about 20k miles on the clock ..

2 out of 4 of the ceramics on the plug separated and basically held in place by the grounding strap only..

We were lucky because I found the idling fluctuation abit odd since it shouldn't happen on a post factory flashed ecu ..

ok .. here ya go ..

I straightened the ground strap to pull out the ceramic centerpiece ..

good thing just prior to this I was logging the car and could confirm about 6-7 counts of knock only and no major catastrophy in the making ..

Gotta relook at engine cylinder temperatures now .. running sustained boost over quite some time .. ;) .. going 1 step colder for now ..

Very surprised since the previous evos can barely run 9 on a daily basis ..

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r226/gunzo_photos/Car/sparkplug-1.jpg

I ran 9's on a daily basis with my stock turbo/cams/injectors and still run them currently :)

That's some serious detonation right there.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/SparkPlugs/IrFusion

Anyone know how good these are?

Darwin, let me know what they say about the code for one step colder on those brisk plugs.

Here's the info I just got from Brisk on those Silver Racing spark plugs:

Evo 10:Stock heat range:Gap @ .020-.022


- BRISK Silver Racing MR12Sis performance upgrade spark plug replacing:

NGK - ILKR8E6 - OEM part #1822A021

1 step colder:


- BRISK Silver Racing MR10Sis a performance upgrade spark plug.

http://www.briskusa.com/

word... i think i will get some sparkplugs soon too.

That's some serious detonation right there.

Well if I wasn't logging the entire way .. I would have agreed with you ..

Like I said .. max knock count was 8 .. max timing pulled was 3 degrees .. leanest AFR was 12.0 .. richest was 10.2 (during the knock events) ..

Nothing points to severe detonation .. and if it was .. we would have picked up the pieces .. we were on the track for almost 20 minutes .. high boost all the while ..

I have no answers also .. but its something for you guys to think about .. there maybe some weakness to this engine that we're not seeing yet ..

Hey Guys
Which cylinders did the spark plugs with the separated ceramic base come out of?

Hey Guys
Which cylinders did the spark plugs with the separated ceramic base come out of?

I've seen similar problems with cylinder #1.

Very interesting...................*subscribed*

I've been getting a SES light this past couple of days so I thought I was overboosting but ive put down the boost and its still coming on. The car doesnt run normal. It idles wierd too. So you guys think I'm misfiring? I'm going to get the code tomorow.

Holy crap at Gunzo's pic

Hey Guys
Which cylinders did the spark plugs with the separated ceramic base come out of?

sorry .. didn't check .. but 2 of the 4 sparkplugs were similiar .. so its 50/50 ;)

You have similiar problems?

This is not the first time this has happened. From what I've been hearing it's always been cylinder one as well. Do you know your air fuel ratio?

Well if I wasn't logging the entire way .. I would have agreed with you ..

Like I said .. max knock count was 8 .. max timing pulled was 3 degrees .. leanest AFR was 12.0 .. richest was 10.2 (during the knock events) ..

Nothing points to severe detonation .. and if it was .. we would have picked up the pieces .. we were on the track for almost 20 minutes .. high boost all the while ..

I have no answers also .. but its something for you guys to think about .. there maybe some weakness to this engine that we're not seeing yet ..

Gunzo you have photos of the other plugs, more specifically the straps?

which one is cylinder one, the closest to the driver, thats the plug that blew for me initially

My cylinder 1 plug was arced. I am taking my Evo to AMS Monday to get an inspection to make sure everything is intact. Here is my thread.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14240

Gunzo you have photos of the other plugs, more specifically the straps?

Sorry, I don't have it .. the straps were normal on the other 2 plugs ..

These plugs where the ceramic fell off had slight erosion on the side of the groundstraps ..

Based on them for now, I'd say the plugs are on the hot side after tuning .. transition from the older evo brings over alot of negative transfer :bowlol:

I used to think 9's are too cold for normal use ..

what torque spec do you guy use when ur putting these babies on?

is cylander #1 the one on the left or right?

also gapping should be @ .20-.22 for all aftermarket plugs?

where is everyone ordering the brisk plugs from perrin or straight thru brisk?

thanks guys,
geo

My engine has blown too... :-(..

Ouch. Possible or likely reasons as to why? Sorry man.

Has anyone upgrade their factory plugs yet?

There are a few available for the Evo X: HKS M-Series, Brisk Silver and NGK Race. Is anyone running these and could provide some feedback?

Has anyone upgrade their factory plugs yet?

There are a few available for the Evo X: HKS M-Series, Brisk Silver and NGK Race. Is anyone running these and could provide some feedback?

same here.. looking to get one steo colder.. any reviews?

Have a part number for the NGK race ones?

Have a part number for the NGK race ones?

NGK Race R2556B-9

I'm using one step colder plugs .. after what I've seen :bowlol:

I have a set of both brisk and hks 1 step colder plugs waiting to go in when I install the fp red. I am leaning towards the hks though.

ok .. here ya go ..

I straightened the ground strap to pull out the ceramic centerpiece ..

good thing just prior to this I was logging the car and could confirm about 6-7 counts of knock only and no major catastrophy in the making ..

Gotta relook at engine cylinder temperatures now .. running sustained boost over quite some time .. ;) .. going 1 step colder for now ..

Very surprised since the previous evos can barely run 9 on a daily basis ..

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r226/gunzo_photos/Car/sparkplug-1.jpg

Hey gunzo,

How much power were you making when this happened? And is anyone running the Brisk Silver Racing Plugs (BRSK-MR10S) yet, If so any reviews?

what torque spec do you guy use when ur putting these babies on?

is cylander #1 the one on the left or right?

also gapping should be @ .20-.22 for all aftermarket plugs?

where is everyone ordering the brisk plugs from perrin or straight thru brisk?

thanks guys,
geo


Cyl #1 is first from the front(timing side)...which is the pass. side...

should we worry about the sparkplugs on a complete stock tune??

should we worry about the sparkplugs on a complete stock tune??

Worry only if you run sustained > 21psi under track conditions ..

Please use NGKs or Densos .. don't use oddball plugs or cheap $5 plugs too :D

I'm running the HKS one step colder plugs gapped at .022" with sucess. Likely the stock plugs are fine up to around 400 crank HP though and some are running stock plugs on 35r's just with lower gaps in the .022" range. It's recommended that right before a tune you get new plugs as the factory set seems to get fouled up pretty good running 10.0 AFR's all the time.

I'm running the HKS one step colder plugs gapped at .022" with sucess. Likely the stock plugs are fine up to around 400 crank HP though and some are running stock plugs on 35r's just with lower gaps in the .022" range. It's recommended that right before a tune you get new plugs as the factory set seems to get fouled up pretty good running 10.0 AFR's all the time.

Its almost like your stalking me lol
http://www.maperformance.com/hks-m-series-super-fire-racing-spark-plugs-50003-m45xl.html

Ordering mine today from MAP; 50003-M45XL (x4)= 95.96 + shipping

http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/3114.jpg

Im hoping these will help me run more timing from 6500rpm on since Im pretty sure the stockers are getting too hot.

Its almost like your stalking me lol
http://www.maperformance.com/hks-m-series-super-fire-racing-spark-plugs-50003-m45xl.html

Ordering mine today from MAP; 50003-M45XL (x4)= 95.96 + shipping

http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/3114.jpg

Im hoping these will help me run more timing from 6500rpm on since Im pretty sure the stockers are getting too hot.

I would have went with NGK Race Plugs. Much better than HKS plugs, which I am sure are made by some other company...

I would have went with NGK Race Plugs. Much better than HKS plugs, which I am sure are made by some other company...

The HKS plugs are made by NGK for sure. I don't know if they are the Race version from NGK though.

I would have went with NGK Race Plugs. Much better than HKS plugs, which I am sure are made by some other company...

Cant find anyone who has them :(

Cant find anyone who has them :(

I know Gunzo can help... If you find a place to order let me know. I would order a set with you. :)

I LVB and Gunzo use them with great results. ;)

I know Gunzo can help... If you find a place to order let me know. I would order a set with you. :)

I LVB and Gunzo use them with great results. ;)

I did hit him up about them some time ago and from what I remeber it was a special deal or something from an overseas shop. I cant remember the details but it was a no go.

Hmm... I might try a local NGK dealer and see if they import them for me. I mean they should be able to as long as you know the part number.

Hmm... I might try a local NGK dealer and see if they import them for me. I mean they should be able to as long as you know the part number.

If you find out let me know :shades:

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/kong/0000014295/

I know this place has them... but that's about all.

Been looking to pick up some plugs as well. Have a tune coming up soon (putting a DOM 2.0) in and probably need to swap out my stockies.

If you find out let me know :shades:

Hollywood if you like I can get them for you . but its retail ..so it won't be cheap ..

otherwise try this website and email the them ..

www.ganmotorsports.com

I have dealings with them ..

Hollywood if you like I can get them for you . but its retail ..so it won't be cheap ..

otherwise try this website and email the them ..

www.ganmotorsports.com (http://www.ganmotorsports.com)

I have dealings with them ..

Email sent... :) :thumbup:

21k on the dash...mod list below...no track yet but multiple times aweek i do spirited drivin on back roads and ramp pulls do i need new plugs yet? if so which ones? ie stay with stockers or 1 step colder if so wats the prod #s?...thanks in advance...these blown engine stories scare me

21k on the dash...mod list below...no track yet but multiple times aweek i do spirited drivin on back roads and ramp pulls do i need new plugs yet? if so which ones? ie stay with stockers or 1 step colder if so wats the prod #s?...thanks in advance...these blown engine stories scare me

No probably not... stockers are listed for 30k plus.

If you plan on running larger turbos, more fuel, more boost, then yes. Otherwise save your money.

No probably not... stockers are listed for 30k plus.

If you plan on running larger turbos, more fuel, more boost, then yes. Otherwise save your money.

thank you good sir...when i hear "blown engine" my weenie runs up my butthole in fear..

Hollywood if you like I can get them for you . but its retail ..so it won't be cheap ..

otherwise try this website and email the them ..

www.ganmotorsports.com (http://www.ganmotorsports.com)

I have dealings with them ..

Just got a email back...

60 Singapore dollars = 43.3965 U.S. dollars

PER UNIT...

Without shipping... :o

thank you good sir...when i hear "blown engine" my weenie runs up my butthole in fear..


sig material. :bowlol:

Yikes, i'm going to inspect my plugs, now!

Just got a email back...

60 Singapore dollars = 43.3965 U.S. dollars

PER UNIT...

Without shipping... :o

yeah.. not cheap :whipping:

Been running these plugs for 6 years now .. only changed them twice on the old car :D .. the money evens out in the long run

Just got a email back...

60 Singapore dollars = 43.3965 U.S. dollars

PER UNIT...

Without shipping... :o

My weenie just ran up my butthole....

My weenie just ran up my butthole....

I actually found them for like $160 shipped, but I cant read wacky asian writing...

sig material. :bowlol:

glad i could be of service :shades: lmao

It seems a lot of people are using the HKS plugs.

Has anyone ran Pulstars?
http://www.hondacivicperformanceblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/pulstar_pulse_plugs-300x225.jpg

It seems a lot of people are using the HKS plugs.



Thats because those that run NGK racings are non-english speaking :bowlol:

And I believe they are not readily available to the western hemisphere .. heck even the local guys don't know about the racing plugs !!

Price is about right. I bought 2 sets last time so I don't need to deal with translation headache for a while :D

I actually found them for like $160 shipped, but I cant read wacky asian writing...

Price is about right. I bought 2 sets last time so I don't need to deal with translation headache for a while :D

Sell me the other set... :D :wallbash:

wacky asians... :computermad:

I wonder if the greddy race plugs are the same as the hks. NGK: R7418T-9 well that may not be the right plug but it gives the idea, cost at little less and easier to find.

HKS plugs are renamed Deno's... never had any luck with any Denso plugs in FI applications.

HKS plugs are renamed Deno's... never had any luck with any Denso plugs in FI applications.

Really? Always thought Denso made a solid plug, regardless if it was applied to an n/a or FI car. What issues did you have if you don't mind sharing?:confused2: I just purchased a set of the HKS's and plan to run them with my new DOM 2 thats going in next week.

Thanks. :thumbup:

anyone have a link to this NGK race plugs as to where we can get them?

:yeahthat:

Really? Always thought Denso made a solid plug, regardless if it was applied to an n/a or FI car. What issues did you have if you don't mind sharing?:confused2: I just purchased a set of the HKS's and plan to run them with my new DOM 2 thats going in next week.

Thanks. :thumbup:

When I used Denso's before on my SDS Eclipse pushing maybe 22psi on a vortech v1 blower. The gnd and ceramic portions broke off completely on two Denso plugs. I been using NGK iridiums on the same car with no issues. I dunno, maybe it was just one car on my part. But the car runs better with NGK's than Denso's.

Hey guys...I just had a P0304...pulled the plug and its IDENTICAL to the one that gunzo posted. Cracked in the same way. LOL. I wonder whether there's something going on with cylinder 4 that has some inherent extra stress/problems?

verkion

I know this is kind of a dumb question but, ummm...do I need some anti-seize or anything like that on the threads...or dielectric grease or something on the ceramic part etc.?

Thanks!
verkion

anyone have a link to this NGK race plugs as to where we can get them?

+2

I know this is kind of a dumb question but, ummm...do I need some anti-seize or anything like that on the threads...or dielectric grease or something on the ceramic part etc.?

Thanks!
verkion

Yes, Yes will make your life a lot easier later.

which part? The grease or the anti-seize? And is it any specific anti-seize? Some people say to use Copper anti-seize etc. I have a can of stuff that I used for my O2 sensor...that good enough?

which part? The grease or the anti-seize? And is it any specific anti-seize? Some people say to use Copper anti-seize etc. I have a can of stuff that I used for my O2 sensor...that good enough?

I just use the Permatex Silver one. Copper and Nickle antiseize is more for exhaust parts.

It seems a lot of people are using the HKS plugs.

Has anyone ran Pulstars?
http://www.hondacivicperformanceblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/pulstar_pulse_plugs-300x225.jpg

These are not made for the X yet...

Just some food for thought...

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l131/1good2go/pulstarvngk.jpg

NGK Iridiums vs. Pulstars

can explain why pulstar give less power at low rPM, seems like bad for daily drive.

can explain why pulstar give less power at low rPM, seems like bad for daily drive.

I think you are reading the dyno chart incorrectly. One line is HP other is TQ. Then each plug is overlayed, both plugs made exactly the same power...

HKS plugs are renamed Deno's... never had any luck with any Denso plugs in FI applications.

Well I just received my set of the HKS Super Fire Racing Plugs from MAP (thanks Kasey) and what do you know, there made by NGK (didn't think Denso made there plugs) the 4th pic shows it. Anyhow hoping to replace my stockies with these just before my tune next week with Bryan@GST.

Heres some pics (yeah im a pic whore I know!:yay:):

Well I just received my set of the HKS Super Fire Racing Plugs from MAP (thanks Kasey) and what do you know, there made by NGK (didn't think Denso made there plugs) the 4th pic shows it. Anyhow hoping to replace my stockies with these just before my tune next week with Bryan@GST.

Heres some pics (yeah im a pic whore I know!:yay:):

Made by NGK huh... thats a bonus :neener:
Did you mean to go with the 40's? Those are the stock heat range, the 45's are the one step colder plugs.

Well I just received my set of the HKS Super Fire Racing Plugs from MAP (thanks Kasey) and what do you know, there made by NGK (didn't think Denso made there plugs) the 4th pic shows it. Anyhow hoping to replace my stockies with these just before my tune next week with Bryan@GST.

Heres some pics (yeah im a pic whore I know!:yay:):

I saw previous HKS plugs and those were made by Denso... dunno. Maybe they switched manufacturers.

That's good news. Maybe I will just get the HKS's instead of trying to find the Race plugs.

Yes, this is very good news. Thanks for posting that up.

pulstars are piles. Don't use them in a Evo if you like your pistons to stay smooth on top. ;)

Well I just received my set of the HKS Super Fire Racing Plugs from MAP (thanks Kasey) and what do you know, there made by NGK (didn't think Denso made there plugs) the 4th pic shows it. Anyhow hoping to replace my stockies with these just before my tune next week with Bryan@GST.

Heres some pics (yeah im a pic whore I know!:yay:):

Looks like those are stock heat range of 8.

M45XL are heat range 9, so one step colder.

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=3115&rsku=6489

Looks like those are stock heat range of 8.

M45XL are heat range 9, so one step colder.

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=3115&rsku=6489

Yeah noticed that...:confused2:

Have to talk to MAP about that. Though how much would I even benefit with 1 step colder? Might talk to Dev and see how fast he can get some 45XL. Im sure though replacing my plugs (10K mileage) would be a benefit regardless, seeing as I was running 10-10.2 @ WOT for about a month (couldn't have been good for the plugs to be running so rich).

Oh well, there going in regardless, if i can't get a set of 45XL before next week.

EDIT: Devin @ SpeedElement took care of me, had some 45XL's on order and is going to get them to me! THANKS DEV!!!

Good call on the 45XL's, running those myself.

How are these HKS ones different than the typical NGK Iridiums (OEM) ones we run? Aside from if you order different heat range ones?

verkion

Hey guys...I just had a P0304...pulled the plug and its IDENTICAL to the one that gunzo posted. Cracked in the same way. LOL. I wonder whether there's something going on with cylinder 4 that has some inherent extra stress/problems?

verkion:omg: Woo guys I just threw the same code P0304 so im guessing its the plugs aswell... just wondering if any one has the part number to the NGK plugs that are 1 step colder please can any one help thnx

:omg: Woo guys I just threw the same code P0304 so im guessing its the plugs aswell... just wondering if any one has the part number to the NGK plugs that are 1 step colder please can any one help thnx

NGK R-2556B-9 :bowlol:

;) .. best plugs I've ever used since Evo 7

NGK R-2556B-9 :bowlol:

;) .. best plugs I've ever used since Evo 7
kool thnx do you know the Gap size by any chance? :thumbup:

The question is, where do us folks in the US order these NGK plugs from?

kool thnx do you know the Gap size by any chance? :thumbup:

0.4mm pre gapped

BigT .. I have no idea how you guys are going to get it though .. sorry ..
Most of the guys just use HKS cooler plugs .. the vendors may have to consider bringing them in ;)

0.4mm pre gapped

BigT .. I have no idea how you guys are going to get it though .. sorry ..
Most of the guys just use HKS cooler plugs .. the vendors may have to consider bringing them in ;)

Should I use the 40's or 45's from hks?

0.4mm pre gapped
Would these be the same as .020-.022?

Would these be the same as .020-.022?

0.015748"

I think this is them?

fairly pricey though...

http://www.rhdjapan.com/ngk-r2556b-racing-spark-plug-60872

I think this is them?

Nice find. Yeah, they aren't cheap.

0.4mm pre gapped

BigT .. I have no idea how you guys are going to get it though .. sorry ..
Most of the guys just use HKS cooler plugs .. the vendors may have to consider bringing them in ;)

0.015748"

So doesn't that mean that we would have to gap them to .020?

I think this is them?

fairly pricey though...

http://www.rhdjapan.com/ngk-r2556b-racing-spark-plug-60872

Can anyone confirm these are it?

Can anyone confirm these are it?

They are the same product# as posted above, but Im not about to spend 160 on spark plugs if they are wrong lol

So doesn't that mean that we would have to gap them to .020?



Can anyone confirm these are it?

why would you want to do that ? these are not OEM plugs anymore .. you're not supposed to regap them .. nor can you :p ..they are wired tip plugs ..

They are the ones .. sometimes you have to look beyond the initial costs of these plugs ..

how much are the normal iridiums ?
about 30-50% less ?

these plugs last twice as long for me .. so in the end I spent the same amount anyways .. (2 x normal plug change versus once for them)

Anyways .. since no one has used it before on the other side of the world .. its not easy to convince you guys ;) .. you just have to 'try' :amen:

They are the ones .. sometimes you have to look beyond the initial costs of these plugs ..


Anyways .. since no one has used it before on the other side of the world .. its not easy to convince you guys ;) .. you just have to 'try' :amen:

Agreed... Im more concerned about ordering the wrong ones lol.... how sure are you that those are them.

Agreed... Im more concerned about ordering the wrong ones lol.... how sure are you that those are them.


R2556B is correct.. but you have to get the -9s and the website did not put any indications ..

I would not know how -9 will work on the colder regions .. but in places like florida or texas.. they should be ok ..

took me a long while before I decided to get the 9s because the last time I used 9s on the 4g63 .. it was too cold a plug and I had to go back to 8s (the prices weren't that bad back then but still very high :D)

The shop that sold them told me 1 step colder usually can't be wrong .. :coffee:

yea I would rather be safe than sorry...

ordering... ugh $35 for shipping.... geez $185 total...

Any merchants want to beat that lol?

R2556B is correct.. but you have to get the -9s and the website did not put any indications ..

I would not know how -9 will work on the colder regions .. but in places like florida or texas.. they should be ok ..

took me a long while before I decided to get the 9s because the last time I used 9s on the 4g63 .. it was too cold a plug and I had to go back to 8s (the prices weren't that bad back then but still very high :D)

The shop that sold them told me 1 step colder usually can't be wrong .. :coffee:

You had me sold till this statement. It is snowing once again in TX today so I would hate to have issues.

ordering... ugh $35 for shipping.... geez $185 total...

Any merchants want to beat that lol?

Let us know how it turns out.

Let us know how it turns out.

Im going to email them first and see which -9 they are. Only because Texas has been so cold lately lol.

R2556B is correct.. but you have to get the -9s and the website did not put any indications ..

I would not know how -9 will work on the colder regions .. but in places like florida or texas.. they should be ok ..

took me a long while before I decided to get the 9s because the last time I used 9s on the 4g63 .. it was too cold a plug and I had to go back to 8s (the prices weren't that bad back then but still very high :D)

The shop that sold them told me 1 step colder usually can't be wrong .. :coffee:

says 8, 9, or 10?

whats the difference?

You are viewing a BRAND NEW R2556B Long Reach Racing Spark Plug by NGK.


What is an iridium spark plug?

-High-output, high-rev sports car engines require a spark plug that is able to withstand the loads generated by high power engines and can guarantee reliable ignition.


Selecting for heat

-Based on data taken under the harsh conditions at races and rallies, NGK spark plugs exhibit powerful, stable, and consistent results even under high-load, high-speed driving conditions, so that your engine can accelerate smoothly. We make available five heat value types to best suit your engine performance characteristics, giving you a choice of the optimum heat value. (The higher the heat value, the faster the plug radiates heat and cools.)

- A high plug number doesn't mean you'll be able to go faster. If the plug number is too high, the engine may hesitate at low revs. If it is too low, pick up will worsen. So, we recommend you choose a plug that best suits your driving patterns.


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-Excellent for powerful, sporty cars

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-Works at low voltage, reducing loads on plug cords and other parts of the electrical system.


Specs

-Thread Size: 12mm X 26.5mm (16.0mm)

-Plug Type: C16 (LKR-E Type) Long Reach Spark Plug

-Heat Range(s) Available: #8, #9, #10

*Please specify the Heat Range you wish to purchase this product in at the point of sale.


Compatible Vehicle Model(s):

-Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X CZ4A (10/07~) Eng: 4B11T
From the site:

*This listing and price is for a single(1) spark plug. If you wish to purchase more than one of this item, please specify the quantity in the quantity space provided.


Get this and all your JDM @ RHD Japan

I'm also wondering which heat range would be best for me.

I'm also wondering which heat range would be best for me.


I've Been using the stockers for 50k and thats worked good for me , but a few guys I know running reds have been using one step colder for the past 20k+ and thats been working just fine for them .

I've Been using the stockers for 50k and thats worked good for me , but a few guys I know running reds have been using one step colder for the past 20k+ and thats been working just fine for them .

And those are the -9's correct?

And those are the -9's correct?

Correct. I stick with 8 since E85 doesn't run as hot as pump.

You guys should keep in mind that our plugs are already one step colder than previous generation Evos. I haven't seen a good argument for going colder. There are some pretty big builds running the stock plugs.

Tried to google and failed... what are the differences between the numbers? (8,9,10)

Correct. I stick with 8 since E85 doesn't run as hot as pump.

You guys should keep in mind that our plugs are already one step colder than previous generation Evos. I haven't seen a good argument for going colder. There are some pretty big builds running the stock plugs.


correct , I'm yet to see any issues with the stock plugs . I have a guy thats going for 650hp soon so I hope to have some first-hand data from that .

Tried to google and failed... what are the differences between the numbers? (8,9,10)

Try again...lots of good info. "spark plug heat range"

The stock plug is an 8. Higher numbers are colder.

Try again...lots of good info. "spark plug heat range"

The stock plug is an 8. Higher numbers are colder.

So anyone think 10 is too cold?

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml

So anyone think 10 is too cold?

Yeah they will be too cold.

Yeah they will be too cold.

so 9's it is

Well, as for a reason to switch; haven't some of the oem plugs been breaking off in the chambers or something??

Well, as for a reason to switch; haven't some of the oem plugs been breaking off in the chambers or something??



I've seen that happen but only when the cars have tuning issues , so far not one car that I've seen ( and I've seen MANY ) has had that issue - but I have heard of others which have .

SO removed my plugs and they were fine! :confused2: now I dont know what that code can mean... P0304

SO removed my plugs and they were fine! :confused2: now I dont know what that code can mean... P0304

Lol yea prob the easiest thing to do. Im about to run Stage 2 so I will prob run it for a while and just check the plugs once every other week or so. If I notice any degrading then I will get some.

Im going to get my car tuned next weekend. Just got a FP Green. Which plugs should I get?

Im going to get my car tuned next weekend. Just got a FP Green. Which plugs should I get?

The stock plugs are fine for almost everyone.

cool. I will pick up an extra set just in case

I picked up a set of HKS m45XL, heat range 9. I wanted the NGK race, but couldn't stomach the price tag per plug. Did use them yet though, until I install new turbo.

I picked up a set of HKS m45XL, heat range 9. I wanted the NGK race, but couldn't stomach the price tag per plug. Did use them yet though, until I install new turbo.

you do know that the hks plugs are ngk's right?? so wouldnt they be the same thing??

you do know that the hks plugs are ngk's right?? so wouldnt they be the same thing??

NGK race plugs, are what the name says. RACING spark plugs meant for racing, not daily driving. Their design is 100 for race. But cost $60-90 a pop. A bit to rich for a spark plug...

Probably these are $23 a plug are a good choice.

I switched over to the 1 step colder HKS plugs.

SO removed my plugs and they were fine! :confused2: now I dont know what that code can mean... P0304

Misfire in Cylinder #4.

(I had P0300 on my IX and it's random or multiple cylinder misfire and since it has a number 4 on it, it's cyl #4)

You're welcome :)

I switched over to the 1 step colder HKS plugs.

In Ohio that may be to cold the stock ones I think are 1 step lower than what was used in the 8/9 evo's. I realy want to see how this workd for you.

Misfire in Cylinder #4.

(I had P0300 on my IX and it's random or multiple cylinder misfire and since it has a number 4 on it, it's cyl #4)

You're welcome :)haha thnx I knew that but many were saying that the plugs were failing but mine were fine! just curious if a plug is loose could it cause a misfire?????

yephaha thnx I knew that but many were saying that the plugs were failing but mine were fine! just curious if a plug is loose could it cause a misfire?????

yepTHANKS :yay:

So what is the time/mileage interval for every spark plug change? I have a stock 6000miles. Would it be better for me to change the plugs? if which plugs? Colder ones?

I just checked mine, It is in perfect condition :coffee:

So what is the time/mileage interval for every spark plug change? I have a stock 6000miles. Would it be better for me to change the plugs? if which plugs? Colder ones?

You don't need colder plugs. They will just foul sooner. Your tune will depict whether you will need the plugs or not, and generally speaking, we don't really need colder plugs until around 400whp.


Why does everyone think they have to get super expensive iridium plugs? Copper or platinum will do just fine. Especially if you have to change them every 6k lol.

I ran NGK copper plugs in my VIII with 25psi. NO KNOCK. I changed them every 5k and they were only $1.9/each. They couldv'e easily gone 10k.

Check for plugs here:
rockauto.com

^I think they are primarily an acdelco brand carrier, but you can search around for others.

I just bought some new OEM ones, going to see if they help on my retune. Mine were still working fine, but my tuner said they looked a little old.22k miles on my stockers right now.

You don't need colder plugs. They will just foul sooner. Your tune will depict whether you will need the plugs or not, and generally speaking, we don't really need colder plugs until around 400whp.


Why does everyone think they have to get super expensive iridium plugs? Copper or platinum will do just fine. Especially if you have to change them every 6k lol.

I ran NGK copper plugs in my VIII with 25psi. NO KNOCK. I changed them every 5k and they were only $1.9/each. They couldv'e easily gone 10k.

Check for plugs here:
rockauto.com

^I think they are primarily an acdelco brand carrier, but you can search around for others.

Simple .. how do you know you DON'T need colder plugs ?
What do you use the car for ? ie street, track, high boost, low boost etc

I give you 2 reasons for colder plugs

4B11 runs hotter than normal engines
Exhaust mivec makes for VERY HOT CHT (cylinder head temps) ..

Why risk $1.9 for a 40k car? The $ and cents don't add up to logic sense ..
You can run mineral oil too .. why is everyone using synthetic? .. there's alot more examples probably ..

OEM car comes with Iridium plugs .. what makes you think you're better than the guys who designed the engine to decide you can use a cheaper plug with no performance degradation ??

Arguments on plugs is also on evom .. its one where no one will win :p
There are pros and cons to both sides of the arguments ..

I just checked my stock plugs @ GST Motorsports (threw a P0300 a week ago, so checking for good messure), because I was going to change them as I am at almost 13k on the stock plugs. They looked great from what Mike@GST said. Guess tuning plays a big part on how quick they foul.

Have a set of HKS M-Series Super Fire Spark Plugs 45XL (1 step colder) on deck when needed. They really look just like the stock plugs re-stamped. Eventually they will go in. Do they out perform the stock plugs...really haven't seen a definitive answer to that.

Just spoke with Troy from Works.... kinda rude actually, whatever.. anyway, he said that the other places that are selling them for 160 for four are not selling it for the correct price. Anyway, whatever... I was kinda turned off by the rudeness. This is the second or third time I called there... oh well..

Just spoke with Troy from Works.... kinda rude actually, whatever.. anyway, he said that the other places that are selling them for 160 for four are not selling it for the correct price. Anyway, whatever... I was kinda turned off by the rudeness. This is the second or third time I called there... oh well..

WORKS makes me LULZ!!!

No one here in Nor-Cal will do business (at least no one that knows...and eventually they learn if they don't know) with those guys any longer because of exactly what you've just stated. Not to mention, they push there shit that is overpriced, and is garbage. You should see there P2 Brain Flashes...looks like they gave the laptop to some kid who still hasn't learned to color in the lines and tells the child "HAVE AT KID". I'm not surprised to be quite honest...

yep typical rudeness from them... I almost felt like I struck a nerve with the guy. He is like we are the only ones in the US that have it... then well if you want you can buy from them other guys or you can get it from us now...

Hell I am just calling to see why the price was 240 more than the other 4 places I found.

What makes the NGK Iridium Racing series Spark Plug that much better or attractive to pay that hefty of a price tag? The straps look much different then the HKS's or the stock Plugs.

Is anyone running these, and if so was it worth the beastly price? I mean @ the price Works is trying to sell these for ($100 a plug) its makes me wonder how many sets of stock plugs I could buy and just change more frequently.

What did you ever do with those HKS plugs you had for sale?

What did you ever do with those HKS plugs you had for sale?

Still have both sets. 40xl and 45xl. Not sure if I need to run 1 step colder as we just inspected my plugs at GST Motorsports after 13k (this car has been tuned since 500 miles on the Odometer) and they look solid. The stock plugs seem to be just fine for us X's making 400whp or under. It really comes down to how good your tune is im starting to realize.

Why you need a set chief?

Even most 500+whp X's are still using stock plugs. There is no reason to use anything but OEM in most cases. Buy a new set of stockers if need be.

Still have both sets. 40xl and 45xl. Not sure if I need to run 1 step colder as we just inspected my plugs at GST Motorsports after 13k (this car has been tuned since 500 miles on the Odometer) and they look solid. The stock plugs seem to be just fine for us X's making 400whp or under. It really comes down to how good your tune is im starting to realize.

Why you need a set chief?


Well i need plugs so.. i have to get something.

Ryan gates ran stock plugs through the entire season. Enough said.

Ryan gates ran stock plugs through the entire season. Enough said.

Yea, another person who knows stock plugs are fine:)

yea..... I just called mitsu near my house.. 12 a plug special they had 4 left..

yea..... I just called mitsu near my house.. 12 a plug special they had 4 left..

What, the dealer had them for 12? They were double that at my dealer, i just got them from AMS for like 17.

Good deal if you truly got them for 12, nice pickup.

Im running stock plugs. Unless I have an issue, I'm staying with them. I have done other things to deal with heat, so I am not sure my experience is going to be typical. I pulled out the stock plugs and put in new ones at 16.5k, and they looked perfect. I am saving them for spares. (they were that perfect). That being said, I am going to have a set of colder plugs on hand, in the event I have an issue, I am prepaired. I can't stand having a car down for something stupid like not having spark plugs handy.

Ryan gates ran stock plugs through the entire season. Enough said.

How many miles gets put on the car during a season?

i been thinking about getting the HKS plugs, florida gets real hot in the summer time and maybe would be worth it to switch to a colder plug. or should i still run with OEM ? im at 11k miles

i been thinking about getting the HKS plugs, florida gets real hot in the summer time and maybe would be worth it to switch to a colder plug. or should i still run with OEM ? im at 11k miles

You can try to run colder, but everyone I have seen try to run colder than the stock ones ends up switching back to stock. The stocker's seem to work very well.

good enough for me, thanks bro

I decided to use stock plugs again...

My old ones looks ok:

Hummm so there is no point on buying 1step colder?
Ill be getting a tune using ecutek in a month or so, the car will prob only have 4k miles.. will I be ok @ the track with the stock plugs, if so how long?

Hummm so there is no point on buying 1step colder?
Ill be getting a tune using ecutek in a month or so, the car will prob only have 4k miles.. will I be ok @ the track with the stock plugs, if so how long?

NO .. EVERYONE as quoted is a fallacy ..

Guys who goes 1 step colder has never looked back ..especially those that track the cars and run boost above 24psi ..

I've been running ngk -9s for almost a year ..
I get close to 29mpg highway / city mix ..
I run higher timing with lesser knocks than before ..
You get lesser irregular / unexplained knocks at part throttle..

Then again .. I run unobtainium plugs .. :coffee:
The HKS is not even close ..

Say what gunzo...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unobtainium

NO .. EVERYONE as quoted is a fallacy ..

Guys who goes 1 step colder has never looked back ..especially those that track the cars and run boost above 24psi ..

I've been running ngk -9s for almost a year ..
I get close to 29mpg highway / city mix ..
I run higher timing with lesser knocks than before ..
You get lesser irregular / unexplained knocks at part throttle..

Then again .. I run unobtainium plugs .. :coffee:
The HKS is not even close ..


Damn I was reading mixed info, but thank you sir, My dad gets good deals on NGK, do you have the part number by any chance?
Thanks again!

Say what gunzo...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unobtainium

:bowlol:

NGK R2556-9

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/t-joy/10000101/

NO .. EVERYONE as quoted is a fallacy ..

Guys who goes 1 step colder has never looked back ..especially those that track the cars and run boost above 24psi ..

I've been running ngk -9s for almost a year ..
I get close to 29mpg highway / city mix ..
I run higher timing with lesser knocks than before ..
You get lesser irregular / unexplained knocks at part throttle..

Then again .. I run unobtainium plugs .. :coffee:
The HKS is not even close ..

Interesting as most big shops have recommended using the stock ones again. Even bigger builds going 700whp I have seen them using the stock ones as trying other ones have led to issues. I am running some pretty decent power and am still on my original stock plugs at 22k miles. Granted I bought new stock ones to switch in there for my retune, but still going with stock. I believe Gates still runs stock ones too. I would've switched to colder ones but I haven't heard any good results yet.

:bowlol:

NGK R2556-9

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/t-joy/10000101/


How much would these be retail shipped to the US.. I got conflicting quotes...

AHHHHHHHH see not im confused :p

:bowlol:

NGK R2556-9

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/t-joy/10000101/


Im a white dude, I can not read that japanese chicken scratch lol

^Well for what it's worth on a normal dynojet I am pushing 480whp (est, getting dynojet numbers soon, comparing my last setup percentage gain from dyno to dyno). So for a near 500whp car I still run stock plugs with great success.

However to confuse you more, I trust Gunzo's opinion:)

^ maybe Ill try stock for a bit then try NGK and compare the two...
I have a couple mods in the mail right now, and going to get a tune in a munth so Ill see the power then :D

^ maybe Ill try stock for a bit then try NGK and compare the two...
I have a couple mods in the mail right now, and going to get a tune in a munth so Ill see the power then :D

If you are getting a tune soon try both on the dyno and see what happens. I know the people that have tried others have trouble on the dyno and they switch back to stock and all is well. Maybe they are all running the HKS ones and that is the problem.

Ya I'll see if my tuner will help me out there.. If I do this I will post for sure!!

Interesting as most big shops have recommended using the stock ones again. Even bigger builds going 700whp I have seen them using the stock ones as trying other ones have led to issues. I am running some pretty decent power and am still on my original stock plugs at 22k miles. Granted I bought new stock ones to switch in there for my retune, but still going with stock. I believe Gates still runs stock ones too. I would've switched to colder ones but I haven't heard any good results yet.

Your point is understood ..

Many big shops here sells alot of stuff for the X .. and combined .. they made the same power as a X with exhaust and intake only :p

I guess what I'm trying to say is .. sometimes .. experience from an owner is better than any big name shops that has big hp cars that are probably unstreetable ..

your car makes 480hp .. how many times and how long every time do you make full use of the 480hp ?? :D .. 1/4mile ? autoX ?

I can safely say if you sustain your 480hp for 15mins .. you'll not say the same thing about the plugs :yay: ..

Your point is understood ..

Many big shops here sells alot of stuff for the X .. and combined .. they made the same power as a X with exhaust and intake only :p

I guess what I'm trying to say is .. sometimes .. experience from an owner is better than any big name shops that has big hp cars that are probably unstreetable ..

your car makes 480hp .. how many times and how long every time do you make full use of the 480hp ?? :D .. 1/4mile ? autoX ?

I can safely say if you sustain your 480hp for 15mins .. you'll not say the same thing about the plugs :yay: ..

Possibly, I haven't had a chance yet, snow just melted and just got the new turbo a month ago or so. I know what you are saying though.

A side note, I have e85 on my side though, it has a very nice cooling effect:)

So I finally tossed in the set (4) HKS M Series 45XL (1 step colder) plugs in my car this afternoon. Threw a misfire P0303 last night, and re-inspected the plugs to see if they were fouled. They looked good, but figured @ that point they were out and I had brand new ones ready so why not. Car seems to like them. Also figured since I'm now making roughly 150whp over stock baseline, it might actually benefit. Gapped my plugs at .022 (any other suggestions, Speed Element suggested that gap range so I went with it). Should get a better feel this weekend as I'm driving down to Central-California for the opening of Red Line Time Attack @ Buttonwillow Raceway.

Quick question, I was always told that as you increase the power output (crank/whp), for every 100hp (over stock output) you should go a step colder, or could go a step colder. Am I correct with this assumption? I know allot of guys swear by the stock Evo X plugs, and from what I saw in terms of condition they do seem to hold up well against fouling (they are NGK Iridiums). Just wanted to get a better understanding of how and why it is the principal to go a step colder with increase in HP.

Thanks for any insight! :rock:

Excellent question... One for which I will wait for the answer.

Excellent question... One for which I will wait for the answer.

Might have to start a new thread to get the answer we are waiting for. :p

Quick question, I was always told that as you increase the power output (crank/whp), for every 100hp (over stock output) you should go a step colder, or could go a step colder. Am I correct with this assumption? I know allot of guys swear by the stock Evo X plugs, and from what I saw in terms of condition they do seem to hold up well against fouling (they are NGK Iridiums). Just wanted to get a better understanding of how and why it is the principal to go a step colder with increase in HP.

Thanks for any insight! :rock:

First of all, hotter plugs do not make your engine run hotter and colder plugs do not make your engine run cooler. The hotter plugs have a higher temp in the actual tip of the plug which helps to burn the fuel deposits off the plug to prevent them from fouling. On the other hand, the colder plugs have a cooler temp at the tips which makes deposits build up on the tips quicker causing them to foul easily.

So why go colder plugs? When your plugs are too hot it can cause detonation or pre-ignition especially on leaner AFRs and/or higher boost. I'm sure you've seen pictures of plugs where the ground straps melted off. Well, some of those (of course not all) may have been prevented with colder plugs.

Another thing about these EvoX plugs are the long ceramic insulators. I'm sure some of you have seen or experienced the ceramic insulators cracking off. In general, hotter plugs have more narrow insulators which can crack easier than the colder plugs that have thicker insulators.

First of all, hotter plugs do not make your engine run hotter and colder plugs do not make your engine run cooler. The hotter plugs have a higher temp in the actual tip of the plug which helps to burn the fuel deposits off the plug to prevent them from fouling. On the other hand, the colder plugs have a cooler temp at the tips which makes deposits build up on the tips quicker causing them to foul easily.

So why go colder plugs? When your plugs are too hot it can cause detonation or pre-ignition especially on leaner AFRs and/or higher boost. I'm sure you've seen pictures of plugs where the ground straps melted off. Well, some of those (of course not all) may have been prevented with colder plugs.

Another thing about these EvoX plugs are the long ceramic insulators. I'm sure some of you have seen or experienced the ceramic insulators cracking off. In general, hotter plugs have more narrow insulators which can crack easier than the colder plugs that have thicker insulators.

Thanks SiC! :godance:

Guess my next question would be, how many of us X's owners are actually using a 1 step colder plug, or are @ the point where they could slightly benefit from using a set?

Thanks SiC! :godance:

Guess my next question would be, how many of us X's owners are actually using a 1 step colder plug, or are @ the point where they could slightly benefit from using a set?

I'm running NGK Racing R2556-9 which is 1 step cooler. Alot of shops here in Japan are recommending these due to the ceramic cracking issue on the stock type plugs. NGK was actually out of stock of these for 2 months around December 2009 and January of this year. Some famous shops mentioned the problem on their shop blog and it caused a minor panic here :lol: so everyone went and bought them :)

Insulator cracks off > plugs run hotter > plug ground strap melts > falls into cylinder = good chance of damaging engine

I'm running NGK Racing R2556-9 which is 1 step cooler. Alot of shops here in Japan are recommending these due to the ceramic cracking issue on the stock type plugs. NGK was actually out of stock of these for 2 months around December 2009 and January of this year. Some famous shops mentioned the problem on their shop blog and it caused a minor panic here :lol: so everyone went and bought them :)

Insulator cracks off > plugs run hotter > plug ground strap melts > falls into cylinder = good chance of damaging engine

How much did those set you back. Everywhere I've looked they are a grip. Theres no way I'm going to pay what WORKS is asking for them (that and I would never do business with them). If you don't want to disclose publicly how much, just PM me.

Thanks. :-P

How much did those set you back. Everywhere I've looked they are a grip. Theres no way I'm going to pay what WORKS is asking for them (that and I would never do business with them). If you don't want to disclose publicly how much, just PM me.

Thanks. :-P

I got mine for free but they cost around $130 USD here for a set of 4.

I got mine for free but they cost around $130 USD here for a set of 4.

Damn, wish I could find a vendor here that can get them, or has them, without the rape sauce! WORKS here in the Bay Area (California) is trying to literally "bend over, no lube, and use a 100 grit sand paper for a condom" arse rape there customers @ a price point of $400!!! That is for you not so good @ elementary math a $100 a plug!!! Not to mention that is before shipping as well...:idhitit:

Any vendors here that are selling these plugs, @ a price that doesn't require the customer to take out a 2nd mortgage on there home/condo?

Would pick up a set of these quickly if I could find a set for the price you paid SiC! If you have a local vendor/contact in Japan I could use, I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks!

i have been told by ams to stay with stock heat rating if running E85.

i have been told by ams to stay with stock heat rating if running E85.

Not running E-85 @ the moment. May sometime in the future. But for now its Piss California 91.

good ol piss gas. i just bought some hks m40xl and NGK JAPAN is stamped on them.http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12419&d=1269676636

i don't know how much different the ngk race plugs are.

i don't know how much different the ngk race plugs are.

They are allot different. Im running the 45xl's, so we will see how well they preform.

Look @ the straps. Its a legit plug, but @ the cost...uggghhh!!
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/LVSBB6/EVO%20X/L1310907.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/LVSBB6/EVO%20X/L1310909.jpg

yep lots different. looks a lot better. let me know if you found a place to buy them yet?

yep lots different. looks a lot better. let me know if you found a place to buy them yet?

I have, but for a price that is not worth bending over for. Would love to find a vendor who has these @ a semi-reasonable price. If you feel like loosing your Arse virginity, then you can pick up a set from WORKS...but at an astronomical price point of $400 before shipping. INSANE...:wtfsign:

$100 each. why not get go ahead and get few extra at that great price! ouch!

how to tell from appearance of the plug that we have to change them? i am at 50k and it still run fines, wonder i should change it ?

50k in miles or kilometers?

well 1 mile is 1.67km

depends on your driving, how you drive or if you go to track/drag often and level of mods. 50k km's sounds abt right to change or at least to have them checked.

as an old saying goes, if it ain't giving u probs, don't touch it.

just jk n my .2 cents

how to tell from appearance of the plug that we have to change them? i am at 50k and it still run fines, wonder i should change it ?

50k km, haha, of course i would like to change it when it is near upto its lifespan,wont want to risk my motor either.

Regardless of what plugs you do use what I will say is this.

For the love of all that is Holy, use a Torque Wrench when fitting plugs! as failure to do so results in tears.

Regardless of what plugs you do use what I will say is this.

For the love of all that is Holy, use a Torque Wrench when fitting plugs! as failure to do so results in tears.

What's the torque value?

What's the torque value?

Good question.

Yea stripping the head is not fun...

What's the torque value?

Bump for answer... Please.

According to the X Service Manual:
3.Install the spark plugs and tighten to 18 ± 2 N⋅m (13 ± 1 ft-lb).

Be sure to use a low-range inch-pound torque wrench. That translates to 156 inch-Lbs (+/- 12 Inch-Lbs).

BTW - If your clicker wrench(es) haven't been calibrated (or checked) in the last year, stop using them and buy new ones (cheaper than getting the calibration adjusted).

No thanks.... I will use the OEM ones. Work great.

According to the X Service Manual:
3.Install the spark plugs and tighten to 18 ± 2 N⋅m (13 ± 1 ft-lb).

Be sure to use a low-range inch-pound torque wrench. That translates to 156 inch-Lbs (+/- 12 Inch-Lbs).

BTW - If your clicker wrench(es) haven't been calibrated (or checked) in the last year, stop using them and buy new ones (cheaper than getting the calibration adjusted).
When you get your torque wrenches checked/calibrated, you can specify what torque value to test at. If you ask, they will give you the correction sheet, so you will have it. I had mine done this year, and for 2 wrenches, a half and 3/8" drive it was about 80 bucks.

R2556B is correct.. but you have to get the -9s and the website did not put any indications ..

I would not know how -9 will work on the colder regions .. but in places like florida or texas.. they should be ok ..

took me a long while before I decided to get the 9s because the last time I used 9s on the 4g63 .. it was too cold a plug and I had to go back to 8s (the prices weren't that bad back then but still very high :D)

The shop that sold them told me 1 step colder usually can't be wrong .. :coffee:

i know evo 8's use a different plug from evo 9's....so wouldnt the X?

Installed the R2556B-9 plugs I got and the car feels and sounds plain old stronger. Nothing to compare with (dyno, logs) but she definitely pulls harder.

Was having lean condition cel with AP (sent back for screen crap out) and tried the colder plugs as a last resort with a battery pull and no issues. Have to complete wideband install to confirm but ok so far.

Installed the R2556B-9 plugs I got and the car feels and sounds plain old stronger. Nothing to compare with (dyno, logs) but she definitely pulls harder.

Was having lean condition cel with AP (sent back for screen crap out) and tried the colder plugs as a last resort with a battery pull and no issues. Have to complete wideband install to confirm but ok so far.

where did you purchase these plugs from ? ... i might have to invest in some ;)

Direct from Japan son. I put up a group buy in the Alberta thread. Came in quick and was about half the cost of the HK plugs sold in the states which are just relabeled NGK plugs anyway.

are those brisk cheaper then the stockers?

I honestly, did not find a good reason to update from stock.

I even with a FP Green I find that the stock plugs are not getting glazed and the plugs look good, not fouling or running lean.

Stock plugs worked great on the FPred as well...i haven't seen any shops recommending upgrading from the stock ones.

are those brisk cheaper then the stockers?

I got mine for $42.54 (Canadian) including tax and shipping. Stock are much cheaper.

Can anyone post the stock plug type and general cost?

I got mine for $42.54 (Canadian) including tax and shipping. Stock are much cheaper.

Can anyone post the stock plug type and general cost?

It's on the first page...

The stocks are pretty good plugs.

I'm running NGK Racing R2556-9 which is 1 step cooler. Alot of shops here in Japan are recommending these due to the ceramic cracking issue on the stock type plugs. NGK was actually out of stock of these for 2 months around December 2009 and January of this year. Some famous shops mentioned the problem on their shop blog and it caused a minor panic here :lol: so everyone went and bought them :)

Insulator cracks off > plugs run hotter > plug ground strap melts > falls into cylinder = good chance of damaging engine


Where can I buy these? I'm ready to get them now.

I ordered mine threw RHDJapan.

Is it the 2556b?

Is it the 2556b?

D to RHDJapan

Hello,

Just want to confirm you are sending me cool level 9 spark plugs.

NGK Race R2556B-9

Thanks
Dallas

RHD Web to me

Dallas-san,

Thank you for choosing the RHDJapan team once again. Yes, your order is processing with the heat range requested.


Best Regards,


Patrick Antell
RHDJapan

Yes. Asked and confirmed the order when I sent it and got called Dallas-san lol.

NGK Race R2556B-9.....$40 a pop. holy crap.

Yes. Asked and confirmed the order when I sent it and got called Dallas-san lol.

Sweet! Thanks. I'll be ordering next week.

So i was wondering what the real difference is between the 4 "prong" vs the one "prong" spark plugs pictured below are.

My friend had a somewhat of an inconsistent idle and changed his spark plugs to the bosch +4 plugs(platinum or iridium forgot which exactly) and it completely fixed his shaky idle.

Would you guys recommend Bosch plugs for the evo x?
http://www.powersparks.co.uk/images/plugs/closeplug.jpg

http://www.pauls-place.co.uk/images/Catagory/Spark_Plug.jpg

NO BOSCH in your EVO...

It clearly states IRIDIUM PLUGS ONLY!!!

Bosch has iridium plugs...

no dice on autolite platinum plugs?

no dice on autolite platinum plugs?

Just get OEM NGK and save yourself headaches later on... or spend more on the HKS 40/45 plugs. Those are NGK made as well.

well, i just ordered the NGK Race R2556B-9. i've been random P0300 codes and im over 100hp from stock. hopefully these help out

get NGK racing plugs from Japan. They are really good.

get NGK racing plugs from Japan. They are really good.

Wow thats a good feedback :bowlol:

:p

so is this a subjective or objective feedback ? :D

Hey all, i've had a serious issue with hesitation, I just had the car tuned about a month ago by Mellon, the logs looked great so it's not the tune. I cleaned out my air filter (green performance) and also ran some injector cleaner at the last tank. I'm pretty well positive that my plugs are bad, although I haven't pulled them yet. Mitsuparts.com has them for 13 and some change a piece, but the shipping is a little higher than I think it should be. Are their any vendors on here that can get them cheaper? I am going to call my local mitsu dealer tomorrow, but I just thought i'd check. I'm either going with the Brisk Silver or the OE... they are both about the same price. Silver is apparently MUCH more conductive than Iridium however so a bit of power may be gained there. I'm currently around 340 awhp... OE's or silvers or would either be just as good? http://perrinperformance.com/products/show/631/Spark-Plugs-BRISK-Silver-Racing-

Silver is apparently MUCH more conductive than Iridium however so a bit of power may be gained there. Silver also melts much lower than iridium. So the wear would be significantly faster with a silver/alloy electrode.

In any case silver might be a better electrical conductor IN A WIRE but it's not for an air gap.

Wow thats a good feedback :bowlol:

:p

so is this a subjective or objective feedback ? :D

haha Gunzo LOL

stop playing with my mind!!! LOL

Silver also melts much lower than iridium. So the wear would be significantly faster with a silver/alloy electrode.

In any case silver might be a better electrical conductor IN A WIRE but it's not for an air gap.

yeah? I wasn't really thinking of melting points tbh, but I guess that's a good point.

Ok then, so does anyone know of any vendors or sites I can get these plugs for under the 13 and change that I found them for? It's complete BS that these plugs are so limited in where they can be bought.

Bosch has iridium plugs...

They do, but they aren't made for the X for some strange reason, or else I just can't find them... the only thing I see is for the basic lancer models and the GTS models.