I am just wondering if it is okay to be running this high of a boost with no tune no reflash. I am currently on the original stock flash and with my current mods, AEM CAI, 1 pc UIP, BR catback, defi boost gauge, is this amount of boost okay for a DD. I use my car to go back and forth to work and I haven't thrown any codes, I also haven't heard of many running this high of boost on the stock turbo. What is going on, is mine one of the strong evo's? I took a local shop tuner for a ride and he said all was normal and he couldn't explain the high boost.

I tapped into boost at the intake vac line coming off the intake manifold. All my vac lines are good, and I have not touched the WGA or have any boost controller other then what is stock. HELP TIA

Boost gauge read 0 with just ignition on, dead on 0.

I am also running 93 octane to btw. But here is what happens when I push the gas to the floor in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th, it will hit 27 psi and then I will shift, so I am not sure if it is falling quickly after it hits the 27 psi or not. It also behaves like this when on the interstate.......------->>> If I am running 65 in 5th and not shift down, just push the throttle to the floor, it will jump to 21 psi and climb to 25-26 psi and hold all the way until I let out of the throttle and I have seen this up to 110 mph, so not sure if it is tapering down at any point.

its your mods, the AEM intake alone raises your boost all the way to 25 PSI
i guess the UICP has something to do with the other 2 PSI
and no its not ok, you should get a tune :thumbup:

Cobb ap do the trick with an off the shelf map???? Thanks alot

no, but they are developing maps for intakes, took them forever tho :wtfsign:

Cobb has a map for the AEM intake now that should help you with whatever hopefully. My car runs boost at 27 and tapers down to 23, but that is with a custom tune on With my AP. Ive benn running this since late December with no issues. My car defiintely does not get abused though, and has yet to see the track or Autox even though I have plans for it.

Cobb has a map for the AEM intake now that should help you with whatever hopefully. My car runs boost at 27 and tapers down to 23, but that is with a custom tune on With my AP. Ive benn running this since late December with no issues. My car defiintely does not get abused though, and has yet to see the track or Autox even though I have plans for it.

What other mods do you have and what do your AFR's look like under the 27 psi boost? Also who tuned your evo, where did you have it done. Thanks

My AFRs stay mid 11s throughout rev range under hard accleleration.

your boost is high, but your boost gauge is probably off by 1-3 psi. honestly.

what boost gauge do you have?

my DEFi reads 2 psi high.

my friends DEFi unit use to read 5 psi higher, so he sold it.

and both of our starts off at 0 like yours does... the best way to know how accurate your boost is, is to put it on a dyno and have them read your boost during some pulls. then comepare your gauge.

I am just wondering if it is okay to be running this high of a boost with no tune no reflash. I am currently on the original stock flash and with my current mods, AEM CAI, 1 pc UIP, BR catback, defi boost gauge, is this amount of boost okay for a DD. I use my car to go back and forth to work and I haven't thrown any codes, I also haven't heard of many running this high of boost on the stock turbo. What is going on, is mine one of the strong evo's? I took a local shop tuner for a ride and he said all was normal and he couldn't explain the high boost.

I tapped into boost at the intake vac line coming off the intake manifold. All my vac lines are good, and I have not touched the WGA or have any boost controller other then what is stock. HELP TIA

Boost gauge read 0 with just ignition on, dead on 0.

I am also running 93 octane to btw. But here is what happens when I push the gas to the floor in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th, it will hit 27 psi and then I will shift, so I am not sure if it is falling quickly after it hits the 27 psi or not. It also behaves like this when on the interstate.......------->>> If I am running 65 in 5th and not shift down, just push the throttle to the floor, it will jump to 21 psi and climb to 25-26 psi and hold all the way until I let out of the throttle and I have seen this up to 110 mph, so not sure if it is tapering down at any point.

I quickly scanned your post. Are you running an AFR gauge?
If you're not then yes, your dangerous. You dont know when you're running too lean.

HOWEVER **disclaimer**
I was running 26psi safely with no tune. I was mid 10s at WOT.

I quickly scanned your post. Are you running an AFR gauge?
If you're not then yes, your dangerous. You dont know when you're running too lean.

HOWEVER **disclaimer**
I was running 26psi safely with no tune. I was mid 10s at WOT.

if he is on stock EM, then no matter WHAT the car is going to run 10 A/F's. at almost any boost level. the ECU will keep adding fuel.

why do your gauges stay at 0? mine at idle or start up is down around 10 or so

why do your gauges stay at 0? mine at idle or start up is down around 10 or so

he ment with key in the ignition, not with the car at idle.

gotcha

your boost is high, but your boost gauge is probably off by 1-3 psi. honestly.

what boost gauge do you have?

my DEFi reads 2 psi high.

my friends DEFi unit use to read 5 psi higher, so he sold it.

and both of our starts off at 0 like yours does... the best way to know how accurate your boost is, is to put it on a dyno and have them read your boost during some pulls. then comepare your gauge.

What is a more accurate gauge? What besides boost do most people run? I was thinking afr wideband; however, if I do this, how could I run this to my ecu as well? Or would it even be a good idea to run the wideband to the ecu?

You would and should run your wide band to a gauge and a logger.

You would and should run your wide band to a gauge and a logger.

Is there a pnp kit for this? I would like to do exactly that. What all is required? I can log with the cobb ap. How would that work exactly?

I do not have an AP, but say for example for ecu flash you would use a serial cable connected to the o2 and the laptop. Maybe AP has something similar. Maybe someone can chime in.

I do not have an AP, but say for example for ecu flash you would use a serial cable connected to the o2 and the laptop. Maybe AP has something similar. Maybe someone can chime in.

Say for instance you have the serial cable going to the laptop from the o2 sensor; when you're done, do you plug it back into the gauge? Or are there two sensors/bungs? Just trying to get a mental picture here.

if you whant to explode your car is ok

Alright, so I am not running a AFR gauge yet but I do know the car is safe with the stock tune. So then it is more then likely do to the gauge being off slightly and making it appear that I am at 27 psi when I am really not? So all is good and don't have to worry about anything? Thanks

your boost is high, but your boost gauge is probably off by 1-3 psi. honestly.

what boost gauge do you have?

my DEFi reads 2 psi high.

my friends DEFi unit use to read 5 psi higher, so he sold it.

and both of our starts off at 0 like yours does... the best way to know how accurate your boost is, is to put it on a dyno and have them read your boost during some pulls. then comepare your gauge.

Mine is a defi white racer boost.

the problem is not the boost. the engine can cope with 27psi. You need to be certain of whether or not you are running lean or not.. get that A/F gauge sorted, you may be able to read your A/F with your cobb device. If its running too lean, you will kill your engine.

Is it true that you will go into limp mode if the car see 27 psi boost spikes on the stock tune? Thanks

Alright, so I am not running a AFR gauge yet but I do know the car is safe with the stock tune. So then it is more then likely do to the gauge being off slightly and making it appear that I am at 27 psi when I am really not? So all is good and don't have to worry about anything? Thanks

your good, just drive the shit out of it.

Well I ordered a cobb ap tonight so I can be tuned and this can all be okay. Hopefully. I will see. I spent a long time today talking with several tuners. Cobb, Buschur, Nisei, Perrin, and lastly Surgeline, and Surgeline gave me the best info out of all of them. I will have to wait a few days for it to get here, got it on evom for 599 thru driveline. Cheapest ANYWHERE.

^^^Surgeline basically is Cobb. Tim Bailey basically wrote most of their shelf maps so you are in great hands. He did my custom tune.

^^^Good to know. I knew that Surgeline makes most of the maps at least they do the R&D for cobb, they made the AEM intake map. So I was happy with what Travis @ Surgeline had to say. In so many words he sad you are unsafe and need a tune to fix your overboost problem. So even with the OTS map for the AEM intake I still may need a custom tune to make everything right. But time will tell, and I am also going to get an innovate wideband to keep in an eye on my AFR's.

Good to hear you decided to get a tune (or AP in your case).

Otherwise, this is what can/will happen...

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13852

ahhh, i was just about to post that same link ;)

The key is that he had a Forge WGA and was holding high boost longer with no tune. I will admit mine is in the dangerous zone but with the ap it shouldn't be anymore. My Cobb Ap will be here on Monday. Yes!!!

i had my boost set on the dyno, my stri boost gauge is pegged past 30psi, im only running 25. I have a defi sitting here but i dont have time to put it in. Lesson to be learned here is make sure your boost gauge is accurate before cranking up the boost.

Please explain how you all are verifying that the boost gauge is accurate or not? I can say I think my gauge is off 2 psi, but I cannot prove it as of yet.

^^^Surgeline basically is Cobb. Tim Bailey basically wrote most of their shelf maps so you are in great hands. He did my custom tune.

I will have to say Tim knows his shit hands down, I got several maps from them all perfect liner power makers. When you go to Surgeline know what you want when you show up and make it clear and simple to Tim.

^Ya when I was speaking with time I felt like a 5 year old in a physics class lol. He was telling me what he was doing and I was shaking my head thinking dam I still dont sh**



To the above I do not if you are talking about the OP about if his boost gauge is accurate, but mine was verified with the dyno it was put on. They pretty much had identical readings. My car was tuned at 27psi and tapers to 21 on the dyno in car reading was 27 tapered down to 19-20.

I am pretty sure my gauge is accurate, I did some gear pulls with it today with my AP logging and the rel pressure on the AP was exactly with my boost gauge. Oh and I am still hitting 27 psi after the stage 1 + AEM intake tune. Cobb in Plano is reviewing my logs to see what is going on.

i initially thought my gauge was off, when i got my first dyno, it was reading 28 psi, but my guage was reading only 21-22, so after a few days of pondering this i went and looked through my boost hose and found a kink in the line, after i fixed the boost hose, my vac went to -20 and my boost was reading the 28 lbs the dyno showed us.

After sending my logs to Cobb for review, they say my car is fine after the stage 1+AEM map and that also my defi boost gauge is dead on. When it reads 27, it is doing 27. So point in case is the way I was driving the car was causing the 27 psi of boost, I was lugging the motor below 2000 rpm and then going to WOT and that was causing the high boost spike. So case in point, this is my first turbo car, and I just have to adjust my driving style.....no problem. Oh and I am hitting 25 psi and tappering to 19 at redline. The car and myself are both happy.