boostin20
05-17-2009, 03:00 PM
I can't stand how the RF system sounds in the x and I knew the speakers could sound better so I decided to redo my stereo bypassing the stock amp but still using the existing wiring in the doors so I can switch it back to stock effortlessly. I just happened to have a brand new Pioneer Premier PRS-800 sitting around. As everyone knows, the wiring harnesses are crap plus I would still have issues bypassing the amp, so I decided to cut into the stock wiring harness at the amp outputs which are 14 pin and 18 pin connectors. At the radio, I cut into the 20 pin connector and used only the power, accessory, and dimming wires for the new head unit. I didn't like how the stock ground in the harness was 22 gauge and the head unit uses a 14 gauge ground, so I kept it 14 gauge and routed my own ground to the metal dash reinforcement bar. It took about 2.5 hours and 3/4 of a 12 pack to do that part.
I couldn't use the head unit to control the sub, so I decided to use an Orion HCCA amp I also just happened to have sitting around. This amp powered a 15" solo-baric L7 in single sub/amp competiton, so I was a little worried about blowing the stock sub. I stared at it for a half hour and figured why not, I'll just buy a new sub if I blow the stock sub. I pulled the sub out of the plastic box to try and assess what I was working with. It turns out that the stock sub is dual voice coil, 1.1 ohm @ 75 watts rms per voice coil. I wired the voice coils in series, only utilized the red and black stock wires, and left the other two wires free in the box because they have to stay in the grommet for the box to stay sealed. I cut into the wiring at the vehicle harness before the pigtail on the sub box so I could remove the box easily. I mounted the amp under the decklid at an angle to show it off a little, but the trunk is still fully functional. I am planning on making a mount that keeps the amp in the same spot, but makes it look like the amp is floating.
The head unit is awesome. The chassis is all copper plated and the specs are incredible. It has auto eq and time alignment, and even has an option to turn off the internal amp for if I am running a multi channel amp for all the speakers. I did the time alignment/ auto eq and then tweaked it to my liking (which suprisingly wasn't much I had to change). The head unit at 50% volume level is A LOT louder just using the head unit to control the door speakers than the RF system could ever be. I'm so glad I finally did this. After listening to the system for about 5 minutes, it was pretty apparent that the RF tweeters don't have frequency blockers. I bought some 400Hz blockers from best buy and installed them. Highlight pics below.
Now onto the short shifter. I finally pulled my buisness partner off of the show truck and over to the X. We pulled the center console and the shifter base. We calculated the throw to be a reduction of 58%. We shortened the top half by 1.25", and lengthened the throw (bottom half) by 1.25". Once I reinstalled the shifter and base into the car, it was pretty apparent we miscalculated the percentage of reduction in throw. It turned out to be exactly 70%. The throw from gear to gear when driving is a little more than the stock throw from neutral into a gear. I love the way it shifts now, and my shifts are lightning quick. Sorry no pics, we didn't start until 11 last night and I was too tired to think about taking pics.
Scosche kit
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0160.jpg
Where I tied into the stock speaker wiring & bypassed amp
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0157.jpg
RCA and remote wire routing under center console and rear seat
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0159.jpg
Frequency blockers
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0168.jpg
DVC stock crappy sub wired in series
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0163.jpg
Sub box
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0161.jpg
Wicked amp and shameless Speed Circuit plug
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0164.jpg
Amp on decklid- mock up w/ zipties (still have to make bracket)
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0165.jpg
zoomed out pic of trunk
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0166.jpg
I couldn't use the head unit to control the sub, so I decided to use an Orion HCCA amp I also just happened to have sitting around. This amp powered a 15" solo-baric L7 in single sub/amp competiton, so I was a little worried about blowing the stock sub. I stared at it for a half hour and figured why not, I'll just buy a new sub if I blow the stock sub. I pulled the sub out of the plastic box to try and assess what I was working with. It turns out that the stock sub is dual voice coil, 1.1 ohm @ 75 watts rms per voice coil. I wired the voice coils in series, only utilized the red and black stock wires, and left the other two wires free in the box because they have to stay in the grommet for the box to stay sealed. I cut into the wiring at the vehicle harness before the pigtail on the sub box so I could remove the box easily. I mounted the amp under the decklid at an angle to show it off a little, but the trunk is still fully functional. I am planning on making a mount that keeps the amp in the same spot, but makes it look like the amp is floating.
The head unit is awesome. The chassis is all copper plated and the specs are incredible. It has auto eq and time alignment, and even has an option to turn off the internal amp for if I am running a multi channel amp for all the speakers. I did the time alignment/ auto eq and then tweaked it to my liking (which suprisingly wasn't much I had to change). The head unit at 50% volume level is A LOT louder just using the head unit to control the door speakers than the RF system could ever be. I'm so glad I finally did this. After listening to the system for about 5 minutes, it was pretty apparent that the RF tweeters don't have frequency blockers. I bought some 400Hz blockers from best buy and installed them. Highlight pics below.
Now onto the short shifter. I finally pulled my buisness partner off of the show truck and over to the X. We pulled the center console and the shifter base. We calculated the throw to be a reduction of 58%. We shortened the top half by 1.25", and lengthened the throw (bottom half) by 1.25". Once I reinstalled the shifter and base into the car, it was pretty apparent we miscalculated the percentage of reduction in throw. It turned out to be exactly 70%. The throw from gear to gear when driving is a little more than the stock throw from neutral into a gear. I love the way it shifts now, and my shifts are lightning quick. Sorry no pics, we didn't start until 11 last night and I was too tired to think about taking pics.
Scosche kit
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0160.jpg
Where I tied into the stock speaker wiring & bypassed amp
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0157.jpg
RCA and remote wire routing under center console and rear seat
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0159.jpg
Frequency blockers
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0168.jpg
DVC stock crappy sub wired in series
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0163.jpg
Sub box
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0161.jpg
Wicked amp and shameless Speed Circuit plug
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0164.jpg
Amp on decklid- mock up w/ zipties (still have to make bracket)
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0165.jpg
zoomed out pic of trunk
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/GEDC0166.jpg