So finally I can report some dyno plots of what the new Garrett GT3076R can do on my Evo X! After a couple weeks of tuning it on the street I finally got it strapped down to the local Mustang Dyno at Street Tuned Motorsports. This is one of the "Heartbreaker" series dynos and my car with stock turbo and full bolt-ons dynoed about 289 whp / 290 wtq in the spring which was almost identical to Buschur's more infamous "Heartbreaker" dyno in the mid west.

Emery was waiting for me right at 11 am and I explained that my timing advance was already at the limits for 27 psi and that likely I would be just adjusting AFR's and testing different MIVEC combos to see what works and what doesn't. Temps were already in the 80's with above average humidity and average barometric pressure so I knew the car was going to be down a few HP.

First run out and it hits 386 whp and 325 wtq in 4th gear! At this point I'm so excited that I overlooked one minor aspect of my tuning. What was 27 psi rock solid on the street was only 26.5 psi on the dyno, similar to how 3rd gear drops the boost levels about .5 psi across the board as well.

Despite the rookie mistake I ended up testing some theories and found out that lowering Intake Mivec to 10 Degrees advance 1000 RPM's earlier in the powerband hurt power. I reset back to my Hiboost Mivec maps and tried retarding the Exhaust Mivec -5 at 6000 and -10 from 6500-8000 and had strong gains across that powerband. Next I tried -5 at 5500, -10 at 6000 and -15 from 6500-8000 and it lost power again so it appears that the -10 exhaust retard on the top end works for this size turbo.

Last run I decided to test about 1 psi less boost which is 26 psi on the street but that ended up being 25.5 psi on the dyno. Still it was a very strong pull for the boost levels and was only down about 10 whp peak and 20 wtq. Likely I'll run 25 or 26 psi for road courses and use the 27 psi setting for drag racing and street encounters.

Overall due to very little if any data being available on tuning this setup I've basically done it all from the ground up. I installed it myself, worked through the problems, tuned it all on my own after countless hours of research, finally I have some solid results under my belt. Despite the lower than expected torque hit, the car pulls very smoothly and evenly right to 8000 RPM and the higher you rev it the more horsepower it delivers despite the boost taper. Next time I'll remember to adjust the boost for the dyno and make sure that the top run is revved out to the same RPM as the lower boost run.

I want to thank Emery at STM for moving such a beautifull AWD mustang dyno setup to less than 10 minutes from my house. I'm sure I'll be back with Intake Manifold, Cosworth Cams, and race gas tunes to test in the future!

Mod list:
- Garrett GT3076R
- ETS Tubular Exhaust Manifold - DW 800 CC Inj - Walbro FP
- ETS 4" FMIC - ETS 2.5" IC Pipes - AMS Intake
- ETS 3" Dual CB - UR 3" Mini-Muffler TP & O2 DP
- Dejon Dual MBC (25 & 27 PSI) - Forge WGA - Works BOV
- ACT-ME1-HDG6 Clutch - ACT Streetlite Flywheel
- 275/30-19 Pirelli P-Zero Nero on 19x9.5 Kosei K3 Wheels
- Eibach Pro Springs - Rear Anti-roll Bar

Tuning Info:
13.0 -> 12.0 AFR during spoolup, ~11.5 AFR at full boost (93 octane)
8-17 degrees of timing advance @ 27 psi tapering to 24 psi (93 octane)
20 psi by 3600 in 4th, 27 psi by 4000 in 4th
Hiboost Mivec maps with -10 exhaust retard at 6500+ rpm's
Tuned by me using EcuFlash v1.42 and EvoScan v2.6b17

Summary (Dyno reads at least 10% lower than a DynoJet, stock Evo X's baseline ~210-220 whp):
289 whp / 290 wtq with Stock Turbo @ 25 psi tapering to 19 psi @ 7500
374 whp / 307 wtq with GT3076R Turbo @ 25.5 psi tapering to 24.5 psi @ 6900 and 23.5 psi @ 7400
380 whp / 323 wtq with GT3076R Turbo @ 26.5 psi tapering to 25.5 psi @ 6900 and 24.5 psi @ 7400

386 whp on this Mustang Dyno is about 420 whp on a DynoJet and an estimated 504 Crank HP. Should be good for mid 11's and 120 mph trap speeds with the right driver and ability to rev 4th gear. My future upgrades consisting of Cosworth cams, Intake manifold, and race gas at 30+ psi could potentially get me close to 600 crank HP, stay tuned!

http://www.rochesterdsm.org/forums/download/file.php?id=407
http://www.rochesterdsm.org/forums/download/file.php?id=409
http://www.rochesterdsm.org/forums/download/file.php?id=408
http://www.rochesterdsm.org/forums/download/file.php?id=259

Wow, nice job getting that set-up to really work for you!

Nice dyno.... can't wait to see what the future holds!

Nice

before i can get impressed.. whats a stock x read on that dyno?

(ttp's mustang reads 290whp on a stock x) sorry to bring that up again.. but just pointing it out.

Damn nice numbers man! congrats!!

Nice numbers man.

Is there a difference dynoing in 4th vs 3rd? I dont know why, but most dyno runs I've read about were in 3rd gear, wheel speed maybe?

Nice numbers man.

Is there a difference dynoing in 4th vs 3rd? I dont know why, but most dyno runs I've read about were in 3rd gear, wheel speed maybe?

ive always seen then done in 4th...

before i can get impressed.. whats a stock x read on that dyno?

(ttp's mustang reads 290whp on a stock x) sorry to bring that up again.. but just pointing it out.

Stock X on Buschur's Mustang Dyno is 210-220 whp range, STM's is said to be even slightly lower than that. :omg:

Nice numbers man.

Is there a difference dynoing in 4th vs 3rd? I dont know why, but most dyno runs I've read about were in 3rd gear, wheel speed maybe?

I've done back to back runs in 3rd compared to 4th and usually the boost hits ~300 rpm's later in 3rd because there is less load. Also the boost tends to be another .5 psi lower using 3rd versus 4th gear and as I found out can be another .5 psi lower on top of that due to the dyno being less load than the street.

The advantages of 3rd are that the intercooler will heat soak less over a shorter run. However, since I typically run in 4th and 5th gear at Road Courses I would rather see how more punishing conditions will react to my tuning so the longer more knock prone 4th gear pulls are what I favor.

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Stock X on Buschur's Mustang Dyno is 210-220 whp range, STM's is said to be even slightly lower than that. :omg:


what are you OMG'img about?

thats a good thing....

i still think that is an awful lot of boost for 380... not knocking you, i just dont think garrett is worth anything for the x yet. and its rather laggy.

I've done back to back runs in 3rd compared to 4th and usually the boost hits ~300 rpm's later in 3rd because there is less load. Also the boost tends to be another .5 psi lower using 3rd versus 4th gear and as I found out can be another .5 psi lower on top of that due to the dyno being less load than the street.

The advantages of 3rd are that the intercooler will heat soak less over a shorter run. However, since I typically run in 4th and 5th gear at Road Courses I would rather see how more punishing conditions will react to my tuning so the longer more knock prone 4th gear pulls are what I favor.

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Thanks for the info, makes perfect sense to tune it how you'll run it.

Nice numbers man.

Is there a difference dynoing in 4th vs 3rd? I dont know why, but most dyno runs I've read about were in 3rd gear, wheel speed maybe?

You Dyno tune in every gear but the one you want measurable and comparable horsepower from is the one thats closest to a 1:1 ratio through the drivetrain.
Gear ratios are effectively torque multipliers and can show different WHP.

If you comparing two identical cars on idendical dynos and one is pulling in 2nd, and the other in 4th you will get higher WHP from the one in 4th. Again this is why you only compare baseline to finished and hopfully both are in the same gear.

Edit; Here is a good read's about dyno's to help get a better picture
http://www.sdsefi.com/techdyno.htm (http://www.sdsefi.com/techdyno.htm)
http://www.modified.com/editors/technobabble/9907scc_technobabble/index.html (http://www.modified.com/editors/technobabble/9907scc_technobabble/index.html)

what are you OMG'img about?

thats a good thing....

i still think that is an awful lot of boost for 380... not knocking you, i just dont think garrett is worth anything for the x yet. and its rather laggy.

It might seem like a lot of boost but it's what pump gas was allowing given the timing and AFR's I was using with no knock. I could experiment with 1-2 psi less and then increase the timing and lean out the AFR for a similar gain but I wanted the potential to get more low end torque with this larger turbine housing by trying higher boost. Keep in mind that from 6900 - 8000 it tapers about 2 psi so where the most stress occurs it's tapering from 26 psi down to 24 psi. Most Dom2 and FP Red setups I've seen tuned for pump gas are within 1 psi of the boost numbers I tuned for so it's not totally unreasonable.

For daily driving and hotter days I'll likely keep my boost at 25-26 psi but with the flick of a switch I can toggle to the 27 psi setting. I agree that not everyone will want to trade that low and torque hit for a little more top end power. I think for MR owners this turbo would likely be ideal as the torque delivery is very even not unlike a lower flowing 35r due to it's larger .94 AR exhaust housing.

When Garrett designed this housing I really don't think they realized how much larger this was than the stock housing, likely it's a bit oversized out of the box but I'm pretty sure a good set of Cosworth cams will wake this combination up for some really good HP numbers.

When Garrett designed this housing I really don't think they realized how much larger this was than the stock housing, likely it's a bit oversized out of the box but I'm pretty sure a good set of Cosworth cams will wake this combination up for some really good HP numbers.


I agree, cams should wake it up more than a red or a blouch.

I've done back to back runs in 3rd compared to 4th and usually the boost hits ~300 rpm's later in 3rd because there is less load. Also the boost tends to be another .5 psi lower using 3rd versus 4th gear and as I found out can be another .5 psi lower on top of that due to the dyno being less load than the street.

That is why you tune in 4th gear on the X, and that is why road tuning is much better than dyno tuning. You get real load numbers on the road and you get aero drag that cannot be simulated on the dyno. Plus heat soak is less of a problem.

Did the 3rd gear runs produce more hp than the 4th gear runs on the dyno?

Congrats on the numbers and tuning yourself!

awesome!! good stuff!

Great in depth analysis and tuning info, asset to Evo forums.

I was debating about this turbo. Should I get 1000cc injectors or keep the 800's? I'm only planning to be around where you are other than the cams. I plan on at least 272's.

Also, did you have to roll your fenders? It doesn't look like you would.

I was debating about this turbo. Should I get 1000cc injectors or keep the 800's? I'm only planning to be around where you are other than the cams. I plan on at least 272's.

Also, did you have to roll your fenders? It doesn't look like you would.


dont get this turbo unless you seriously plan on building the motor.

dont get this turbo unless you seriously plan on building the motor.

There is a guy in Dallas that blew his with the red really quick too. I plan on building the motor no matter which turbo I go with.

I was debating about this turbo. Should I get 1000cc injectors or keep the 800's? I'm only planning to be around where you are other than the cams. I plan on at least 272's.

Also, did you have to roll your fenders? It doesn't look like you would.

800cc are fine on Pump gas to 500-550 crank HP which should support adding cams. Higher boost on race gas I would consider the 1000cc injectors. Originally I was going to hold out til they released them but it would have rushed me to prep the car before the Buschur Shootout let alone HPDE's this summer.

Fenders aren't rolled at all, but these wheels are about as high an offset you can run (+35mm) without needing spacers to avoid the front suspension. Likely any wheels in the same width with lower than a +25mm offset will need some rolling, depending on the tire choice of course.

dont get this turbo unless you seriously plan on building the motor.

I could be wrong but I think meat_EVO is saying it's not a good turbo to bolt onto a car without a ton of supporting mods but it sounds like you are building the motor before it fails which is good planning. Likely with cams and headers you will be fine, but the low end torque is more similar to a 35R setup where it doesn't hit that hard but pulls smoothly to 8000+. Excalibur, you still considering a 35R kit or trying for a more responsive combo?

There is a guy in Dallas that blew his with the red really quick too. I plan on building the motor no matter which turbo I go with.


could of been a number of things. COulb of been poor tuning, bad octane, or just a bad driver that overreved.

800cc are fine on Pump gas to 500-550 crank HP which should support adding cams. Higher boost on race gas I would consider the 1000cc injectors. Originally I was going to hold out til they released them but it would have rushed me to prep the car before the Buschur Shootout let alone HPDE's this summer.

Fenders aren't rolled at all, but these wheels are about as high an offset you can run (+35mm) without needing spacers to avoid the front suspension. Likely any wheels in the same width with lower than a +25mm offset will need some rolling, depending on the tire choice of course.



I could be wrong but I think meat_EVO is saying it's not a good turbo to bolt onto a car without a ton of supporting mods but it sounds like you are building the motor before it fails which is good planning. Likely with cams and headers you will be fine, but the low end torque is more similar to a 35R setup where it doesn't hit that hard but pulls smoothly to 8000+. Excalibur, you still considering a 35R kit or trying for a more responsive combo?

Not really sure. I'm starting to think I should just go with the blouch for it's responsiveness. I would like the power from the 35r, but I keep hearing from people with them that they kick in much later than what vendors are telling me. I'm hearing that the 3586 kicks in around 6k.

If you are going to be using pump gas then Dom2 > FP Red. The 35R sized turbos won't ever hit 20 psi before about 4100 and torque peak at full boost is not going to hit until 4900 unless you have larger displacement or some other magic tricks to get it to spool better. When i was deciding on turbos it was between the Dom2 and GT30 turbos because pump gas was going to be 99% of my usage and I didn't want the slower response of a 35R sized turbo.

Here's a rough guide for 93 octane stats for the various turbos. Take them with a grain of salt as Cams, engine work, race gas and Mivec tuning changes numbers quite a bit and we all know the FP Red comes alive on higher boost and race gas.

------- 20 PSi Spool --- Torque ----- Avg Crank HP
----------- in 4th ------- Peak --- 93 octane @ 25 psi
Stock ----- 2600 ------- 3600 ----- 400 @ 6500
Dom2 ----- 3300 ------- 4100 ----- 480 @ 7000
FP Red ---- 3400 ------- 4200 ----- 460 @ 7200
GT3076R -- 3600 ------- 4400 ----- 500 @ 7500
GT35 ------ 4100 ------- 4900 ----- 550 @ 8000

^^ So why did you go with the gt30 and not the Dom2?

I wanted a turbo with a little more top end but not all the lag that a GT35R series turbo would have. It's a tradeoff and at the time when the Bolt on Garrett's were released they promised twin scroll, ballbearing, larger high flow housings with "similar spool" to the current stock frame turbos. I find that it's a decent compromise and works well on pump gas so I'm happy with the results. It does require more mods than a Dom 2 to make it work well though, likely if I had to do it again the Dom 2 would have been my choice. I'm just trying to make the best of what I have. :shades:

I wanted a turbo with a little more top end but not all the lag that a GT35R series turbo would have. It's a tradeoff and at the time when the Bolt on Garrett's were released they promised twin scroll, ballbearing, larger high flow housings with "similar spool" to the current stock frame turbos. I find that it's a decent compromise and works well on pump gas so I'm happy with the results. It does require more mods than a Dom 2 to make it work well though, likely if I had to do it again the Dom 2 would have been my choice. I'm just trying to make the best of what I have. :shades:
Thanks for the info. Definitly will help with my decision when the time comes.

So with the night air in the 60's, high pressure, and low humidity I headed out to the local dragstrip at NYIRP.

I wasted a few 1.7x short times with great 1-2 shifts only to mis 3rd and hose the run for mid 12's.

Shifting from 4th to 5th at 7k SUCKS and is only good for low 12's.

I was trying to shift at 7500 but somehow the tranny liked 8000 better.

Then I decided it was time to bump the Limiter to 8200 and I got these times:
11.985 @ 117.50
11.920 @ 116.36

Then I bumped it to 8300 but both times I chickened out and held the rpm's at 8200 while coasting through the traps.

Best MPH:

60': 1.703
1/8: 7.595 @ 89.05
1/4: 11.768 @ 118.67 (+29.62 mph gain with coasting through the traps!)

Best ET:

60': 1.737
1/8: 7.587 @ 90.64
1/4: 11.729 @ 117.30 (coasting through the traps around 8200)

All runs were made with my standard street tune that was 380-386 whp on the STM Mustang Dyno @ 26.5 psi peak boost. I still had some 100 unleaded in there which was alllowing me to run an extra 3 psi at peak torque but sadly in the 6500-8000 rpm range where I was revving the motor, the boost was barely 1 psi more at the same RPM according to my logs. I'm going to play around with different restrictor combos to see if I can reduce some of the taper at the top end before the shootout.

Worst case I can bump the timing where it tapers to take advantage of the 100 unleaded gas, otherwise I'll just run 93 octane pump gas. The real limiting factor is still 4th gear running out of revs. Cosworth Cams with upgraded valve springs would let me rev it to 8500 without being nervous but since they also add some good HP I would be coasting through the traps once again. No lift to shift would knock off at least a tenth of a second from each shift because right now I'm dumping all the boost between each gear according to the logs. A taller final drive would be perfect for this car and allow it to achieve 120 mph traps easily and 124-125 mph with cams. Seems that my 19" tires being .2" shorter diameter is not helping matters either!

4th Gear stats (6500-8200):
Average Boost = 26.0 psi
27.7 psi @ 6500
27.0 psi @ 6800
26.0 psi @ 7250
25.0 psi @ 7600
24.0 psi @ 7900
Average AFR = 11.4
Timing Advance = 14* to 17*

It's all about the gearing! :godance:

^Thats awsome man, I can't wait to run my car Sunday w/ your Mivec maps to best my 11.8.

congrats on those awesome numbers!!

^Thats awsome man, I can't wait to run my car Sunday w/ your Mivec maps to best my 11.8.


congrats on those awesome numbers!!


Thanks guys, It's still being held back by the 4th gear limiter but I can run these times on pure 93 pump without too much trouble.

Dkstas, are you going to test the -5* exhaust retard @ 6000 and -10* exhaust retard from 6500-8000? I'm going to mess with boost control on the top end today since I still have that 100 unleaded mix in the there for safety. If I show gains by advancing the intake Mivec +5* from 2000-7000 I'll verify which RPM's they help and post the final maps that you can test as well. :D

So with the night air in the 60's, high pressure, and low humidity I headed out to the local dragstrip at NYIRP.

I wasted a few 1.7x short times with great 1-2 shifts only to mis 3rd and hose the run for mid 12's.

Shifting from 4th to 5th at 7k SUCKS and is only good for low 12's.

I was trying to shift at 7500 but somehow the tranny liked 8000 better.

Then I decided it was time to bump the Limiter to 8200 and I got these times:
11.985 @ 117.50
11.920 @ 116.36

Then I bumped it to 8300 but both times I chickened out and held the rpm's at 8200 while coasting through the traps.

Best MPH:

60': 1.703
1/8: 7.595 @ 89.05
1/4: 11.768 @ 118.67 (+29.62 mph gain with coasting through the traps!)

Best ET:

60': 1.737
1/8: 7.587 @ 90.64
1/4: 11.729 @ 117.30 (coasting through the traps around 8200)

All runs were made with my standard street tune that was 380-386 whp on the STM Mustang Dyno @ 26.5 psi peak boost. I still had some 100 unleaded in there which was alllowing me to run an extra 3 psi at peak torque but sadly in the 6500-8000 rpm range where I was revving the motor, the boost was barely 1 psi more at the same RPM according to my logs. I'm going to play around with different restrictor combos to see if I can reduce some of the taper at the top end before the shootout.

Worst case I can bump the timing where it tapers to take advantage of the 100 unleaded gas, otherwise I'll just run 93 octane pump gas. The real limiting factor is still 4th gear running out of revs. Cosworth Cams with upgraded valve springs would let me rev it to 8500 without being nervous but since they also add some good HP I would be coasting through the traps once again. No lift to shift would knock off at least a tenth of a second from each shift because right now I'm dumping all the boost between each gear according to the logs. A taller final drive would be perfect for this car and allow it to achieve 120 mph traps easily and 124-125 mph with cams. Seems that my 19" tires being .2" shorter diameter is not helping matters either!

4th Gear stats (6500-8200):
Average Boost = 26.0 psi
27.7 psi @ 6500
27.0 psi @ 6800
26.0 psi @ 7250
25.0 psi @ 7600
24.0 psi @ 7900
Average AFR = 11.4
Timing Advance = 14* to 17*

It's all about the gearing! :godance:

That's what I'll have to worry about too. I wonder what fd I would have to have not to fall out with the 35r. Let me know what you decide to go with.

Thanks guys, It's still being held back by the 4th gear limiter but I can run these times on pure 93 pump without too much trouble.

Dkstas, are you going to test the -5* exhaust retard @ 6000 and -10* exhaust retard from 6500-8000? I'm going to mess with boost control on the top end today since I still have that 100 unleaded mix in the there for safety. If I show gains by advancing the intake Mivec +5* from 2000-7000 I'll verify which RPM's they help and post the final maps that you can test as well. :D

Yeah, I'm going to start off with -5* exhaust retard @ 6k and -10* from 6500-8K I can already feel the difference with those settings. depending on how many runs I get I'll try advancing the intake maps for testing.

Advancing intake Mivec seemed to show a general trend of losing ~5 whp from 5500+. There may be some small gains from 2500-5000 but they are hard to measure and didn't show up in the spool test. I still was getting 20 psi in 4th @ 3600. I'll have to do some more back to back tests when I switch back but for now the original settings seem good with just the exhaust retard for larger turbos on the top end.

A few people were asking me about all the details of my buildup so here is the mod path I took to get this car together as a street friendly daily driver that could fair well at the drag strip and road course on the weekends:

Power Stage 1 (Bolt-ons to get you around 375-400 crank HP and mid 12's 1/4 mile):
- ETS 3" Dual Catback Exhaust (Somewhat loud, will add resonators soon)
- Ultimate Racing Mini-Muffler Testpipe (quiets down exhaust drone a bit)
- ATP 3" Transformable O2 Downpipe w/ 44mm Tial Wastegate (can be bought as internal wastegate initially)
- Forge Wastegate Actuator (worked great holding mid range boost better but now I use the Tial integrated with the O2 DP)
- AMS 3" Air Intake (uses 3" all the way through, need to calibrate with tune for best results)
- ETS 2.5" Upper and Lower IC Pipes (not huge HP but a good idea with front mounter intercooler)
- ETS 4" FMIC (thickest you can get without modifying brackets)
- Dejon Tool Dual Boost Controller (25 & 27 psi settings typical)
- Boost Gauge (-30 vacuum to 30 or 35 psi is good)
- AEM UEGO Wideband O2 sensor and gauge
- AMS Underhood Shifter Bushings (cleans up rubber feeling when shifting hard)
- AMS Front Motor Mount (I have the Red, Black is better for the street, less engine movement)
- TurboXS Knocklite (great tool to warn of knock counts without the need for a laptop)
- Custom EcuFlash Tune using EvoScan datalogging on a Tactrix 2.0 cable (Self Tuned)

Power Stage 2 (Supporting mods for larger turbo to allow 500-600 crank HP and mid 11's or better):
- Works BOV (stiffer than stock spring, but not adjustable, good drivability and holds 30 psi)
- ACT-ME1-HDG6 Clutch (six puck sprung disc, street disc would be easier to drive)
- ACT Streetlite Flywheel (figured might as well since I was in there)
- AMS Clutch Master Cylinder Reinforcement Ring
- AMS SS Braided Clutch Line
- Walbro 255lph GSS342 Fuel Pump (supports 550-600 Crank HP)
- Deatschwerks 800 CC Injectors (supports 550-600 Crank HP)
- Mishimoto 1.5" Radiator (optional but stock is 1" and it's recommended if you road course the car)
- Full-Race Tubular Exhaust Manifold (has great low end torque and good top end gains)
- DEI Titanium Exhaust wrap on DP and Headers
- DEI Cooltape on heat exposed components including compressor side of turbo
- Stock location Bolt-on Garrett GT3076R (spools 20 psi boost @ 3600 in 4th)
- DEI T3 Titanium Turbo heat shielding
- Custom EcuFlash Tune using EvoScan datalogging on a Tactrix 2.0 cable (Self Tuned)

Handling Mods:
- Eibach Pro Springs
- Robispec Rear Anti-roll Bar
- Custom Brake ducts
- Goodridge SS Brake Lines
- Girodisc Magic Brake Pads (street) Raybestos ST43 Brake Pads (roadcourse)
- 275/30-19 Pirelli P-Zero Nero Tires mounted on 19x9.5 Kosei K3 Wheels

Future Mods:
- Custom Intake Manifold (has larger capacity to supply more air between combustion cycles)
- 65mm Throttle Body
- Cosworth MX1 Cams (previous mods and race gas boost levels should get me close to 600 crank HP with cams)
- Coilover suspension (haven't settled on which one yet)

If I ever go to E85 or a larger turbo then 1000cc or 1200cc injectors plus a better fuel pump setup will be persued.

My goals are to hit 550 Crank HP on pump gas (~124 mph traps) and 600 crank HP on race gas (~128 mph traps). Likely I'll still need to address the whole "running out of 4th gear RPM" thing with an upgraded taller final drive from Buschur Racing.

I'll be installing the completed intake manifold within the next week and testing it on the dyno for updated numbers hopefully before the snow flies. If all goes well with the intake manifold I may drain the tank and pour some race gas in there so I can turn the boost up to 32-35 psi and push the limits of what this turbo can do. :shades:

^So are you liking the decision of switching form ETS manifold to the Full-race...I just ordered up the full-race manifold and I'm excited to here feed back. I also plan on going external wg with the ATP downpipe...where'd you get it from and did it come with 2 o2 bungs?

^So are you liking the decision of switching form ETS manifold to the Full-race...I just ordered up the full-race manifold and I'm excited to here feed back. I also plan on going external wg with the ATP downpipe...where'd you get it from and did it come with 2 o2 bungs?

MAP performance sold me the ATP O2 DP and got it here really fast, as in a day ahead of expected fast. So far the boost holds a bit more steady all the way to 7400 rpm or so which gained me some HP in the 6500-7400 range. From 7400-8000 I seem to be hitting the flow limits of the turbo and boost drops from 27 psi down to 24 psi but I still have a few things to test.

On the matter of tubular exhaust manifolds here are a few initial observations. The ETS is 48mm OD with ports and runners matched to the head where as the Full-Race has matched ports at the flange but they only match the height of the runners where as the sides smoothly angle in to accomodate the 42mm OD. At first I thought this would be a major restriction for top end flow but so far the Full-Race manifold seems to hold it's own on the mid and top end while delivering a bit of extra torque down low. If I had to make a manifold myself I would start with the 48mm port matched runners and step down to narrower runners as it approached the turbo inlet or maybe gone with a 45mm OD as a compromise, then again I'm only guessing what may or may not work in the real world.

Some of the top end gains I'm getting with the new combo may be more from the boost being held higher for longer using the ATP external O2 DP though, so at least at my power levels it seems that both manifolds are about equal in the mid to top end power with the full-race having an edge at the low end. The main reason I switched was because I thought it had a leak somewhere hiding behind my exhaust wrap and I didn't want any down time. Turns out it was just the manifold to turbo bolts coming loose a bit and it was leaking at the gasket. I'm guessing that possibly with cams and race gas boost levels the ETS may pull ahead on the top end but someone else will have to test that as it's for sale.:)

Full-Race has matched ports at the flange but they only match the height of the runners where as the sides smoothly angle in to accomodate the 42mm OD.. so far the Full-Race manifold seems to hold it's own on the mid and top end while delivering a bit of extra torque down low. ...it seems that both manifolds are about equal in the mid to top end power with the full-race having an edge at the low end.

Thanks alot for using our header! It's great to hear the results you had are *precisely* what we designed our stock-replacement header to do - generate solid midrange and top end gains (that are on-par with the competition's) yet deliver faster response, earlier spool and increased torque in the low end - where you spend 90% of the time driving on the street.

I am confident that our design will deliver the broadest powerband with the most area-under-the-curve of any stock location header on the market. You might gain 3-5whp at the very high RPM's using a competitors big runner header like that tes you had, but you will lose 15-20wtq in the lowend/midrange... and that tradeoff is simply not worth it.

Good luck with the build and please keep us posted as you progress! I am more than happy to help lend a hand with setup advice in the future - just send me a PM or drop me an email at geoff [at] full-race[dot]com

-geoff

dont get this turbo unless you seriously plan on building the motor.


The stock motor is good for 500whp with no problems as long as the tune is good. Look at Gates car 530whp and 9500 road race miles on the stock block.

Thanks alot for using our header! It's great to hear the results you had are *precisely* what we designed our stock-replacement header to do - generate solid midrange and top end gains (that are on-par with the competition's) yet deliver faster response, earlier spool and increased torque in the low end - where you spend 90% of the time driving on the street.

I am confident that our design will deliver the broadest powerband with the most area-under-the-curve of any stock location header on the market. You might gain 3-5whp at the very high RPM's using a competitors big runner header like that tes you had, but you will lose 15-20wtq in the lowend/midrange... and that tradeoff is simply not worth it.

Good luck with the build and please keep us posted as you progress! I am more than happy to help lend a hand with setup advice in the future - just send me a PM or drop me an email at geoff [at] full-race[dot]com

-geoff

I'm stablizing the car's tune after turning off the LTFT's from effecting WOT operation but once I do I'll test out a modified intake manifold... if that looks promising I'll get it dynoed again and see where I'm at. I'll be sure to use you as a resource for setup ideas in the future!