Hi audio and electronic folk!

Well I'm looking to replace my stock stereo (I have the NON-SSS package)
I've picked out my dash kit and CD/IPOD deck but would like some suggestions on replacing the 4 stock speakers.

I'm not looking for anything crazy loud, I don't really care for a subwoofer at this time. I'm willing to get an amp if my speakers would need but if it's possible to run them off the new deck I buy that would be good too (50wX4 or 22w RMS). I just want something that sounds high quality and is a bit louder than the stockers.

Since I bought new exhaust my stock stereo is virtually useless lol.

i think the jl c5's can be had for around 300.00 a set, or get some boston pro series components for about the same price. Both are nice sets of speakers imo for that price range.

I reccomend going to a car audio sho[ and listening to speakers w/ and w/out an amp. Being that you are not wanting to do a sub an amp would definitely be a good choice to get the full range of sound.

I did my own not too long ago. I bought some Pioneers that cost me 200. After i installed my deck they sounded great. Please excuse me cause i cant remember the exact name. But they are 250 W and the deck is 50X4. Sounds real good.

Hook the head unit up and see how it sounds first (you might be happy with it). I have the SSS, but by-passed the stock amp and am running all except the sub off of the head unit's internal amp. It's at least 40-50% louder than stock.

Yeah but the stock speakers on the non SSS are 15W a peice. its crap and will sound like crap no matter what

Yeah but the stock speakers on the non SSS are 15W a peice. its crap and will sound like crap no matter what

This^^ plus the two back door speakers are blown already and I'm down to the two front ones.

I haven't measured the speakers or taken a good look... Are they 5.25''?

cructhfeld says they are 6.5

yeah they're 6.5 for front and back. why don't you want to get a sub? i would at the very least get a 10" sub to take some of the load off your speakers and take that "flat" sound off. i have Alpine SPX-17REF components in the front and back, Pioneer Amp, and a 10" in the trunk and I love the sound. At this point I just need to upgrade the amp to get the full sound out of my speakers and sub and I'm set. You would be wasting money and not getting the full performance of your speakers if you did not purchase a sub.

yeah they're 6.5 for front and back. why don't you want to get a sub? i would at the very least get a 10" sub to take some of the load off your speakers and take that "flat" sound off. i have Alpine SPX-17REF components in the front and back, Pioneer Amp, and a 10" in the trunk and I love the sound. At this point I just need to upgrade the amp to get the full sound out of my speakers and sub and I'm set. You would be wasting money and not getting the full performance of your speakers if you did not purchase a sub.


Well... I might consider getting one but I'm not 100% on it yet. I don't really need the extreme bass sound I just wanted a fuller / audible improvement over the stock setup.

A second reason would be the added weight a Sub/Amp/Box adds.. that's about 50 lbs once all is said and done, kind of eliminates all my other efforts to shed weight off the car :)

4 6.5 speakers with a decent deck will sound plenty good enough.

i just upgraded to a pioneer avic - 910bt using the mito -02 to use the stock amp and it sounds the same just extremly bassier.

so i plan on wiring the speakers directly to the head unit and just leaving the amp to power the sub and hopefully that will help

if i remmeber correctly the stock unit runs off 4ohms while the RF SSS runs off 2ohms...
panasonic or pioneers makes some really decent stock speaker replacements, but 12-15 watts RMS prolly isn't gonna cut it and might prematurely burn out your stock head unit...oreos

Hook the head unit up and see how it sounds first (you might be happy with it). I have the SSS, but by-passed the stock amp and am running all except the sub off of the head unit's internal amp. It's at least 40-50% louder than stock.

Hey bro when you wired the speakers directly to the head unit, u ment a after market head unit right?

i plan on bypassing the speakers off the amp and directly to my new pioneer head unit cause im all teh way up to volume 30 to just barely listen the music and the unit maxes out at 62 that shouldn't be at all. Any tips or advice on how to do this. I already have the mito - 02 so how would i leave the subwoofer working and not hte speakers off the amp?

I have Pioneer 6.5's and they sound great. But they only sound good if you have something pushing them cause the stock setup sucks ass. just get you a cheap pioneer deck if you dont wanna spend the money and call it good. Crutchfield has incredible deals

Anyone replace the stock speakers on the SSS and still run stock amp power? I am thinking of just replacing speakers on the SSS system to get more clarity.

Will I need a special wiring harness or anything for installation of the deck?

Yes. search crutchfeild for it. they will need your deck info. ser # and model....stuff like that should only be about 15 bucks

Yes. search crutchfeild for it. they will need your deck info. ser # and model....stuff like that should only be about 15 bucks

Sweet! Found & ordered!

Thanks for the help everybody.

I had the non-sss stereo like you and I installed some Blaupunkt components in the front and regular 6.5s in the rear. They made a world of difference over the stock. For what i paid they are pretty good.

I also added an amp behind the rear seat and just added a 6.5" bazooka tube. Its just enough bass for me, it doesn't take up much trunk space and it is extremely easy to remove(i just use banana plugs to attach it). I'm pleased with this setup.

Anyone replace the stock speakers on the SSS and still run stock amp power? I am thinking of just replacing speakers on the SSS system to get more clarity.

That's unfortunately not going to make much of a difference. The stock amp for the SSS isn't that great. You would see better performance by replacing the stock amp and keeping the stock speakers. Power and equalization are more important than the speakers themselves. Just look at the Bose home theater systems. They use crappy paper cone speakers with foam surrounds...yet they still sound very good because they are properly powered and equalized :nerd:

Looks like you already have your stuff, but in any case, I have a Pioneer Navi on mine, Polk Audio Speakers all around, Pioneer 10" sub, and Alpine PDX (5 channel). Looks like your just looking for a little better sound than what stock has, so most aftermarket HU can handle what you are looking for. Most of those units have 15/RMS, 50/Max x 4. That will be enough for what you are looking for. As for speakers, like I said, I have Polk Audio. It's good quality (not the best), but it's a pretty good value. I think it's better than Alpine (which is pricier), which I had before in a previous vehicle. If your going for amps, the PDX is pretty good, though a bit pricy, but it has a small profile and can fit under your seat. Or another way to go is get an Alpine HU and get the module amplifier for them which jumps your RMS from 15 to I believe is 50.

To those who have replaced the stock 6.5'' speakers on non-sss


How did you mount the new speakers? Did you just drill holes and put them in the door? I've done this and the speakers seem to be lacking a full bass sound. I can definitely tell the speaker is of a much higher quality right now but when it comes to a deep tone it just sounds like it isn't mounted right. The stock speakers had that 1'' riser and it seems like I need something similar for the aftermarket speakers but I could not find any on crutchfield, and the stock riser seems to be all one piece I cannot remove the speaker from it.

Now I'm leaning towards just getting a sub and amp to get the full bass sound.

Could be a couple things.

First, what speakers did you get?

Second, are you running them off an amplifier or the stock head unit?

Third, can you post pics of the install?

Heres the speakers

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Speakers/A-Series/TS-A632P

Heres the head unit

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/DIN/DEH-2100IB

I don't have any pics of the install... and I did not get an amp.


The sounds is definitely of a MUCH higher quality now, but the deep bass sound has completely vanished. The stock speakers had better deep bass... it seems all the new ones can do is the high "punch" bass like a drum beat. Listening to rap is terrible now but rock or guitar based music sounds good.

I bought my speakers form crutchfield and they came with spacers. I drilled holes to mount the spacers. I also put some sound insulation under, behind and around it.

Seems like you must have some spacers, id have a hard time imagining aftermarket speakers fitting without them.

i believe it was these http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SGMQ656/GM-Speaker-Brackets.html?tp=919

Screw it I said! Just ordered more stuff from crutchfield.

Got a 10'' sub and box + amplifier with amp wiring kit.

Also got the proper mounting spacers for my 6.5'' speakers + speaker wire harness/adapters.

lol good for you,
this tread help me figure out my next stereo upgrade, only problem now is subwoofer mount. I got 2 10inch pioneer with amp but the box was so heavy it was wearing down my tires in a fuckup way and made a bad vibration at highway speed. So no more woofer for now, by the way if someone have a stock woofer box please pm me.

lol good for you,
this tread help me figure out my next stereo upgrade, only problem now is subwoofer mount. I got 2 10inch pioneer with amp but the box was so heavy it was wearing down my tires in a fuckup way and made a bad vibration at highway speed. So no more woofer for now, by the way if someone have a stock woofer box please pm me.

I ended up getting a 10'' woofer in box combo. It says it's 42lbs shipping weight so that might be a bit too heavy for my liking, gonna have to wait and see I guess.

If the box ends up being too much I'll just get a smaller enclosed box down the road.

I would not recommend a coax setup for the fronts. Get a good comp 6.5 set up front and run a decent coax set in the rear. A coax set is not going to be as clear as a comp set, and they will mess up you sound stage.

Ohh.. and stay away from Crutchfield, they are over priced on their speakers and amps. Accessories they are fine, but for the same price as the pioneers (which are not considered good quality speakers or amps) you can get better stuff else where.

hey guys,

new member and besides the intro forum this is my first post here. I have a question about the stock speaker sizes on the evo x 2009 model. I just put a deposit on it today and the manager showed me a pair of old speakers one of the other customers brought it. it seemed that the backing plate was the size of a 6x9 speaker, but they only installed a 6.5". I was wondering if anyone has installed a set of 6x9's in the doors of an evo, or if my eyes were just mistaken.

Thanks for your time, and its good to be here

Well, I did play around with bunch of different options upgrading my RF system. It was playing OK stock, but definitely far from any GOOD quality system. My task was to get much better sound, spend budgetary amount of money, and get away with not too much labor. My setup:
First, I upgraded speakers (opposite many other recommendations). The result was very noticeable enhancement of music overall, I got Infinity reference coax for the rear and same reference series components for the front (2ohm). Installation is fairly easy if you trash your RF speakers and use them as spacers (someone mentioned it before, thanks for the advice!). I kept all speakers 2 ohm to reduce OEM Amp load, was afraid it’ll be very quiet. Works perfect after all (total $200)!
Second, once the upgrade was finished it became clear that now subwoofer makes enough BOOM, but doesn’t really play the music. You can increase the volume of sub, or decrease it, but it is still just boomy dissonance. I spent whole bunch of time trying to find easy fix… Well I did it, but it is pricy… I got 10in Pioneer shallow mount sub Single Voice Coil, 2 ohm, $110, brand new, ebay. YES, it works perfect in OEM enclosure, and YES you need to bridge two OEM outputs to get 2x1.1ohm to 1x2.2ohm. Now music became MUCH cleaner and bass became part of the melody. At the same time, I used GREAT STUFF (soft one, blue bottle) to cover the enclosure inside. You need to use just tiny layer of it , because it expends and forms excellent uneven, semi-soft surface, easy, fast, and gloves are mandatory. It’s times cheaper than any other sound deadening. Do not forget to cover the hole, where OEM sun was mounted on the back! Plus, Pioneer is slightly bigger then OEM one, therefore you have to have Drimel tool to make the mounting opening bigger by shaving 3mm from its edge. Works and sounds excellent! My major concern was bridging the amp, I was told by Crutchfield – it will burn out, BULL SHIT! It works perfect.
Third, now having pretty good music (I can easily hear the difference between descent MP3 converted back to WAV and ripped to Navy HDD, and direct rip from original CD) Now I feel that crossovers of the OEM amp do not cut it right. There are two problems: crossover between twitter and midbass for components, and midbass and sub sharing too much bass. Not every track will get you to this point, but it happens if your listen carefully. The verdict is – AMP and set of crossovers. It is more money, so I’ve been waiting for some time and finally got it. I’ll get it installed next weekend, post the result. I played it budgetary: Infinity reference 5ch amp ($200) and really good (I hope) set of CDT Audio Satnet 400 2 Way Crossovers ($40). Hope these crossovers are much better then ones from Infinity components package which I still haven’t install, because OEM amp doesn’t give me this option.

Well, I did play around with bunch of different options upgrading my RF system. It was playing OK stock, but definitely far from any GOOD quality system. My task was to get much better sound, spend budgetary amount of money, and get away with not too much labor. My setup:
First, I upgraded speakers (opposite many other recommendations). The result was very noticeable enhancement of music overall, I got Infinity reference coax for the rear and same reference series components for the front (2ohm). Installation is fairly easy if you trash your RF speakers and use them as spacers (someone mentioned it before, thanks for the advice!). I kept all speakers 2 ohm to reduce OEM Amp load, was afraid it’ll be very quiet. Works perfect after all (total $200)!
Second, once the upgrade was finished it became clear that now subwoofer makes enough BOOM, but doesn’t really play the music. You can increase the volume of sub, or decrease it, but it is still just boomy dissonance. I spent whole bunch of time trying to find easy fix… Well I did it, but it is pricy… I got 10in Pioneer shallow mount sub Single Voice Coil, 2 ohm, $110, brand new, ebay. YES, it works perfect in OEM enclosure, and YES you need to bridge two OEM outputs to get 2x1.1ohm to 1x2.2ohm. Now music became MUCH cleaner and bass became part of the melody. At the same time, I used GREAT STUFF (soft one, blue bottle) to cover the enclosure inside. You need to use just tiny layer of it , because it expends and forms excellent uneven, semi-soft surface, easy, fast, and gloves are mandatory. It’s times cheaper than any other sound deadening. Do not forget to cover the hole, where OEM sun was mounted on the back! Plus, Pioneer is slightly bigger then OEM one, therefore you have to have Drimel tool to make the mounting opening bigger by shaving 3mm from its edge. Works and sounds excellent! My major concern was bridging the amp, I was told by Crutchfield – it will burn out, BULL SHIT! It works perfect.
Third, now having pretty good music (I can easily hear the difference between descent MP3 converted back to WAV and ripped to Navy HDD, and direct rip from original CD) Now I feel that crossovers of the OEM amp do not cut it right. There are two problems: crossover between twitter and midbass for components, and midbass and sub sharing too much bass. Not every track will get you to this point, but it happens if your listen carefully. The verdict is – AMP and set of crossovers. It is more money, so I’ve been waiting for some time and finally got it. I’ll get it installed next weekend, post the result. I played it budgetary: Infinity reference 5ch amp ($200) and really good (I hope) set of CDT Audio Satnet 400 2 Way Crossovers ($40). Hope these crossovers are much better then ones from Infinity components package which I still haven’t install, because OEM amp doesn’t give me this option.

How did you do that and how do you mount the new speakers in it? glue, screws? I am having this problem now, i have 6.5 inch JBL splits

SupremeX, who do you recommend to buy speakers from? If not crutchfield. I worry about buying from a shady place.

Here is my install. The Evo is very easy to install audio in. As for your question above. sonicelectronics.com is a good internet retailer.

Headunit= Metra dash kit and a Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD
Speakers= Digital Design DDC-6.5" Comps
Amps= Digital Design C4b and C3b
Subwoofer= Digital Design 1508 8"

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/badandy81/Audio/IMG_2744.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/badandy81/Audio/IMG_2725.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/badandy81/Audio/IMG_2735.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/badandy81/Audio/IMG_2730.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/badandy81/Audio/IMG_2729.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/badandy81/Audio/IMG_2741.jpg

Is there any advantage to putting componets in the rear? I was thinking of getting some 3 ways for the rear to get a little bass from them and I didn't want to have to install the tweeters. I could care less what it sounds like for anyone but the driver, me.

Thanks for the website, seem much better prices.

Theres no real benefit to having comps in the rear accept that it makes you back seat passengers happy. :)

Theres no real benefit to having comps in the rear accept that it makes you back seat passengers happy. :)


Screw those back seat drivers! :evillaugh:

Thanks for the help. I will be ording from sonic shortly!

Well, mounting in the stock spacers allows you to put two screws to the plastic. Another pair is hanging in the air. To prevent that I filled gap around the screw with 2min epoxy, fast and simple. At the same time, I did put glue on the surface between the spacer and the speaker, just to be sure :)
I finally got all the components mentioned in my previous post. I DO RECOMMEND everybody reading http://www.cdtaudio.com/ (http://www.cdtaudio.com/) technical posts and explanations before doing any installs… I COULD get my sound much better than I did if I’d read their website earlier. Pay special attention to the locations they recommend for each type of the speaker. SPECIFICALLY read about the crossovers. I do confirm that their crossovers make a lot of difference, and looking at the price on the ebay I rushed to get ones which aren’t the best choice for my setup. Well here is what I have now:
1. Kappa 5 AMP 5ch (Infinity reference arrived DOA L. But Kappa 5 is excellent!)
2. Satnet 400 2 Way Crossovers CDT (4300 crossing point) – excellent Item, but I’d prefer to have 3way crossovers by CDT (If I’d only read their website earlier L)
3. Additional set of tweeters – Cliff Designs they were the only good quality budgetary tweeters I was able to find with 1500-20k response and included inline crossovers.
4. Set of CDR twitters was on sale on the ebay $70 – absolutely fantastic!!! Reference tweeters I had went to the garbage

Good part – Everything plays astonishing!!! Bad part – now I do know how I could’ve done it even better and in one step…

So, here is all wrong things I done:
1. I shouldn’t buy Infinity Reference components for the front
2. I shouldn’t believe that stock AMP will work for me to the extend I wanted
3. I should buy all components in one time – and save a LOT of time for installation

In existing setup I have Infinity reference midwoofers in front doors (receive 100-4300), CDT tweeters as image tweeters (receive 4300 -20k), Cliff designs Tweeters as main tweeters (receive 1500 -4300), Infinity reference coax in rear doors (100-20k).
Important detail – stock location for the tweeters is not the worst one, but pretty wrong. To fix it, partially, I installed CDT tweeters not to the inside of the original plastic boxes, but right on the mesh surface of the stock tweeter. CDT ones came with angled installation mount which extended the speakers 2 in from stock location. It also allowed me to crossfire the tweeters and stop pointing them on driver and passenger. The effect really works well and I have now much better sound imaging, CDT rights about. Second pare of twitter installed right on the surface of the front door speakers, using angled mount, and pointing them up and slightly to the windshield.

What I’d do today, knowing all what I figured out recently…
1. Get all front setup from CDT (you can find excellent deals on the eBay now for their gear)
2. Get 3way front CDT crossovers and respective 2tweeter and midwoofer CDT setup for the front (~299 for woofers and two pares of different twitters, and ~99 for crossovers)
3. Get any respectable brand of rear coaxes (Infinity is fine, but Kappa series, which can point tweeters up)
4. Install main tweeter next to the midwoofer (as I did) and install image tweeter crossfired in front pillar exactly as CDT recommends, instead of the stock location. Stock location can be used for the main tweeter, but only if you do have additional midrande speaker and one more set of crossovers which will get you 4way sound. That will increase pricing at least another $200…

i'm a fan of the boost gauges in the head unit .. not a fan of the look tho .. i think i'd go with the stock mitsu dvd dash

everything else looks good man .. nice job

what if you have the stock Navi? Is there a way to be able to hook up an aftermarket amp to it if you don't have a stock amp already?

I think I adressed you before in a different thread.
You need speaker output to do what you want

Without the factory amp you are SOL.

My reccomendation is to sell whatyou have and buy a deck with buikt in power and hook ups to aftermarket amps.

anyone have pics of what the stock amp plug looks like behind the factory Navi?

I think I adressed you before in a different thread.
You need speaker output to do what you want

Without the factory amp you are SOL.

My reccomendation is to sell whatyou have and buy a deck with buikt in power and hook ups to aftermarket amps.

Sol, why? You can't use the speaker output from the rear of the hu?

Sol, why? You can't use the speaker output from the rear of the hu?

If you are referring to the factory HU then NO you can't. You need the factory amp to drive the speakers, the factory HU is just an eq.

So where does the factory amp get it's sound from? Rca's?- from the head unit. amps are nothing without sound to amplify. The amp does not generate sound but the factory amp recieves a signal from somewhere?

So where does the factory amp get it's sound from? Rca's?- from the head unit. amps are nothing without sound to amplify. The amp does not generate sound but the factory amp recieves a signal from somewhere?

The factory HU is the source for sound obviously, the signal comes from the HU, but the amp for the HU is under the seat, the factory amp. Do you know what an aftermarket HU is? It has the amp built into the HU, you know 50W x 4 or whatever, that is built in, the evo factory setup is split up. The factory HU is just an EQ!!! LOL

The factory HU is the source for sound obviously, the signal comes from the HU, but the amp for the HU is under the seat, the factory amp. Do you know what an aftermarket HU is? It has the amp built into the HU, you know 50W x 4 or whatever, that is built in, the evo factory setup is split up. The factory HU is just an EQ!!! LOL


OOO i c now... lol, come on don't be so condescending.

sometimes its easier to play dumb and wait for people to put their foot in their mouth.

First off i don't have a factory equipped SSS model. So i have never seen in detail the references you are making to the amp and stock HU. This is why I prefer you to answer, but don't be sarcastic.

I do have some exp. in audio though from past jobs and personal cars.

I guess you are probably describing this headunit from Eclipse audio http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/cd/cd7200spec.html, when you say it has the amp built into the HU, you know 50W x 4 or whatever, that is built in

Now im wondering if you really know?

The factory HU is the source for sound obviously, the signal comes from the HU, but the amp for the HU is under the seat, the factory amp.


^^^ here is my point if the stock headunit/Nav unit which the OP originally asked about installing an amp with, if that HU sends out a signal to the factory amp that same signal can be used for an aftermarket one. mmm...

i don't know for sure but the person in previous post twice as long as this one that did an install. He used an Inifnity Kappa reference 5 ch. amp. (not the best choice IMO) BUT it works... what did he use to send a signal to the amp.

I think I adressed you before in a different thread.
You need speaker output to do what you want

Without the factory amp you are SOL.

My reccomendation is to sell whatyou have and buy a deck with buikt in power and hook ups to aftermarket amps.

Maybe its not as simple as using the leads from the HU to the factory amp, or maybe it is, but bet it can be done.

OOO i c now... lol, come on don't be so condescending.

sometimes its easier to play dumb and wait for people to put their foot in their mouth.

First off i don't have a factory equipped SSS model. So i have never seen in detail the references you are making to the amp and stock HU. This is why I prefer you to answer, but don't be sarcastic.

I do have some exp. in audio though from past jobs and personal cars.

I guess you are probably describing this headunit from Eclipse audio http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/cd/cd7200spec.html, when you say

Now im wondering if you really know?



^^^ here is my point if the stock headunit/Nav unit which the OP originally asked about installing an amp with, if that HU sends out a signal to the factory amp that same signal can be used for an aftermarket one. mmm...

i don't know for sure but the person in previous post twice as long as this one that did an install. He used an Inifnity Kappa reference 5 ch. amp. (not the best choice IMO) BUT it works... what did he use to send a signal to the amp.



Maybe its not as simple as using the leads from the HU to the factory amp, or maybe it is, but bet it can be done.



The factory unit has NO amp built in, the amp is under the seat. When you buy a aftermarket HU, the amp is almost always built into the that aftermarket unit. I think you got that point from my above post. That is what I meant by the 50 x4 reference. You have to either replace the factory unit or replace the amp. I don't even know what the OP was talking about, I just saw a comment and then posted. If you are trying to get signal for speakers, you have to go to the amp under the seat directly, and if you are trying to get signal for the amp, you go to the HU, if it is the factory HU you have to either use a JL clean sweep or similar or us a line level converter. And I don't have experience from doing audio on my car or friends cars out of my garage, I used to install professionally in a shop, I have worked on 1000's of audio setup's on cars.

The reason they split it up like they do on the evo is because it has a 6 disk changer in the dash and wanted to add a bigger amp to it. So they placed it under the seat.

Edit: My guess is a line converter or clean sweep or the amp selected has a converter built in to allow for easy installation, I read thru some of the posts to see what you were getting at.

The factory unit has NO amp built in, the amp is under the seat. When you buy a aftermarket HU, the amp is almost always built into the that aftermarket unit. I think you got that point from my above post. That is what I meant by the 50 x4 reference. You have to either replace the factory unit or replace the amp. I don't even know what the OP was talking about, I just saw a comment and then posted. If you are trying to get signal for speakers, you have to go to the amp under the seat directly, and if you are trying to get signal for the amp, you go to the HU, if it is the factory HU you have to either use a JL clean sweep or similar or us a line level converter. And I don't have experience from doing audio on my car or friends cars out of my garage, I used to install professionally in a shop, I have worked on 1000's of audio setup's on cars.

The reason they split it up like they do on the evo is because it has a 6 disk changer in the dash and wanted to add a bigger amp to it. So they placed it under the seat.

Edit: My guess is a line converter or clean sweep or the amp selected has a converter built in to allow for easy installation, I read thru some of the posts to see what you were getting at.

I don't even know what to say to you... check my sig for one. two, please re read the thread from the original post i made. Maybe you will see the rational behind it all. for now this is :wallbash: < me.

really nobody cares about your 10000's of installs blah blah. stop being an elitist. Even you can spout misinformation as shown above about aftermarket radios having internal amps. Not all do, i must have known that from doing backyard installs with tarps and space heaters to keep warm in the winter. lol

Just trying to help, I believe I answered your question in the first place, so take it however you must. :thumbup: I didn't mean to insult you. Sorry if you took it that way.

Just trying to help, I believe I answered your question in the first place, so take it however you must. :thumbup: I didn't mean to insult you. Sorry if you took it that way.


No harm done here. Its kinda entertaining really! btw, did you see the specs on that eclipse HU for power output? :thumbup:

No harm done here. Its kinda entertaining really! btw, did you see the specs on that eclipse HU for power output? :thumbup:

You mean the line output for the RCA's, yeah 8 V. In my spl truck, I ran an excelon deck 5 V with 9 V line driver for the sub amp.

yea that would be my next deck if i didn't have a kid. He likes Cars the movie though so I just recently picked up a new deck from pioneer 4100dvd its decent but the ability to adjust the parametric eq, sucks. Plus it has only one or two shitty crossovers with limited flexability. Thats why i bought the DQXS.

Any tips for tuning with an RTA, I have yet to do that with a good friend of mine. For now it is all by ear. Sounds good but I know after we tune it, it will be much better

yea that would be my next deck if i didn't have a kid. He likes Cars the movie though so I just recently picked up a new deck from pioneer 4100dvd its decent but the ability to adjust the parametric eq, sucks. Plus it has only one or two shitty crossovers with limited flexability. Thats why i bought the DQXS.

Any tips for tuning with an RTA, I have yet to do that with a good friend of mine. For now it is all by ear. Sounds good but I know after we tune it, it will be much better

This is a good place to start. http://www.bcae1.com/tuning.htm

You can also tune with a cheapy db meter from radio shack. I have one laying around that I do an initial tune with to get closer to my target.

This is a good place to start. http://www.bcae1.com/tuning.htm

You can also tune with a cheapy db meter from radio shack. I have one laying around that I do an initial tune with to get closer to my target.


Nice, ill check it out. I have used the one from radio shack. I actually have seen an app for an rta and fft's on the iphone app store as well. got pretty good reviews too. i guess they have an app for that too, lol

Nice, ill check it out. I have used the one from radio shack. I actually have seen an app for an rta and fft's on the iphone app store as well. got pretty good reviews too. i guess they have an app for that too, lol

I don't have an iphone, but I have heard that it works pretty good.

I just looked again and it seems pretty legit, the cheapest one is 10 bucks, while the more expensive ones are at 75 bucks, I may pick one up, I just want to make sure that it's accurate and not just for show.

Does anyone have a pic of the cable running from the stock HU to the Stock Amp? What do the plugs look like? are they standard or proprietary? I want to know, that way I can look behind my factory Navi and see if the cables are pre ran and just sitting there. If not, I will try to find a way to order that cable or pull one out of a wrecked evo.

Does anyone have a pic of the cable running from the stock HU to the Stock Amp? What do the plugs look like? are they standard or proprietary? I want to know, that way I can look behind my factory Navi and see if the cables are pre ran and just sitting there. If not, I will try to find a way to order that cable or pull one out of a wrecked evo.

Did you look at the HOW to install navi into non Navi thread, it has some pics of the harness?

Yeah but the stock speakers on the non SSS are 15W a peice. its crap and will sound like crap no matter what

so I finally got around to replacing the stock speakers ( new alpine SPS 600 - 80WRMS - still using the stock HU and stock tweeters.. (NON-SS HU) wow what a huge difference!

Will be amping them tomorrow but the sound between the 15W stock rubbish was very very noticeable... looking foward to seeing what difference the amp makes...

so I finally got around to replacing the stock speakers ( new alpine SPS 600 - 80WRMS - still using the stock HU and stock tweeters.. (NON-SS HU) wow what a huge difference!

Will be amping them tomorrow but the sound between the 15W stock rubbish was very very noticeable... looking foward to seeing what difference the amp makes...

You'll love it when you add an amp, especially if you pair it with a hu that can do time alignment. The sound is heavenly (after 3 hours straight of listening to focal tuning cd's, which is like nails on a chalkboard).

Can any of this stuff help in wiring an amp to the stock Navi?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

Oh, anyone install aftermarket tweeters and make them fit in the stock location?

Yep, i have and others I'm sure have done it! I actually asked AMI customs to make a custom pod though because of the mesh and angle, I think a custom pod would improve the soundstage.

so I finally got around to replacing the stock speakers ( new alpine SPS 600 - 80WRMS - still using the stock HU and stock tweeters.. (NON-SS HU) wow what a huge difference!

Will be amping them tomorrow but the sound between the 15W stock rubbish was very very noticeable... looking foward to seeing what difference the amp makes...

Do you have a factory amp under your seat? I don't have one. What aftermarket amp did you purchase and where have you installed it? I too am looking at purchasing the same speakers you purchased. Are you using JL clean sweep to integrate into the factory HU?

no factory amp under seat. amp = very nice small and compact Alpine MRPF242.
Actually haven't installed yet. Still sitting in the garage waiting for some time to free up. will post up pics if I manage to get it done this weekend.

Wasn't intending to use JL, was just going to have a look at the wireing behind the HU and see what was available to reroute.. there are good wireing diagrams on a couple of threads on here.

Kinda late to this thread, but as i was researching on sound deadening options for cars many would agree that additional sound deadening material (e.g. in the doors, trunk, and floor) will help the with sound level quality overall.

^ I have ordered sound deadening material. Will be installing it once I receive it. I thought, once I take off the door panels I can replace the stock speakers. Can't decide on which ones though.

no factory amp under seat. amp = very nice small and compact Alpine MRPF242.
Actually haven't installed yet. Still sitting in the garage waiting for some time to free up. will post up pics if I manage to get it done this weekend.

Wasn't intending to use JL, was just going to have a look at the wireing behind the HU and see what was available to reroute.. there are good wireing diagrams on a couple of threads on here.

Can't seem to find these wiring diagrams

^ I have ordered sound deadening material. Will be installing it once I receive it. I thought, once I take off the door panels I can replace the stock speakers. Can't decide on which ones though.

^ I have ordered sound deadening material. Will be installing it once I receive it. I thought, once I take off the door panels I can replace the stock speakers. Can't decide on which ones though.

I went with the JL Evo's. Yes, they even have a set of speakers for our cars. :thumbup:

Sorry no review yet, waiting for the weather to warm up and some free time to get them installed. Plus still trying to figure out how I am going to get my amps run.

Can someone explain how the clean sweep works. I can't figure it out from the wiring diagrams. It looks to me like it has a wiring harness that plugs into it that has connections that has speaker wire that you would splice into the headunit. Then it looks like you would get two RCA outs for your amp. Am I correct?

Clean sweep has a harness for your speaker wires. I believe a stereo harness is required for speaker output to splice into the cleansweep harness. Then RCA outof the cleansweep to the amps. From the amps back out to the stock wiring harness. The question I have now, is, are there harnesses available from the stereo and another harness to adapt to the stock speaker wiring. I really don't want to cut any stock wiring in case I go back to stock.

I went with the JL Evo's. Yes, they even have a set of speakers for our cars. :thumbup:

Sorry no review yet, waiting for the weather to warm up and some free time to get them installed. Plus still trying to figure out how I am going to get my amps run.

Can someone explain how the clean sweep works. I can't figure it out from the wiring diagrams. It looks to me like it has a wiring harness that plugs into it that has connections that has speaker wire that you would splice into the headunit. Then it looks like you would get two RCA outs for your amp. Am I correct?

too expensive! Hook-um up yet? curious what you think of them.

Can't seem to find these wiring diagrams sorry keep on forgetting to look for them.. will post back here if I can find them tonight.

too expensive! Hook-um up yet? curious what you think of them.


No not yet. Between the cold weather and just starting my MBA, mods to mi carro have to wait. I see the box everyday I leave and it is just killing me.

Since I plan on installing an amp too, it's going to be a fairly long install between putting all new speakers in and an amp. So I need to wait till I have the time.

Sorry for resurrecting this. I just bought some new speakers for the front and back from crutchfield and it came with spacers. Can I use the stock spacer for my new aftermarket speakers? If yes, how do you remove the stock speaker from the stock spacer? Thanks much!

Sorry for resurrecting this. I just bought some new speakers for the front and back from crutchfield and it came with spacers. Can I use the stock spacer for my new aftermarket speakers? If yes, how do you remove the stock speaker from the stock spacer? Thanks much!

Yes you can cut the factory speaker out.

Flip it over and cut it out with a dremel or rotozip. I used a rotozip and then a baby sledge hammer to knock mine out, my JL's fit perfect after that.

Yes you can cut the factory speaker out.

Flip it over and cut it out with a dremel or rotozip. I used a rotozip and then a baby sledge hammer to knock mine out, my JL's fit perfect after that.

Do you have a picture on where to cut it? Thanks much!

Do you have a picture on where to cut it? Thanks much!

Sure don't, if you take your 's out and snap a picture of the back and post it, I can show you where to cut, pretty straight forward.

OK I'll take a look one more time, I'll take a picture if I can't figure it out. Thanks :)

Here is the picture. Pls let me know where to cut. Thanks so much.

Here is the picture. Pls let me know where to cut. Thanks so much.

Cut were the red is and then just hit the magnet with a hammer and it will pop out and give you a nice perfect spacer with factory mounting.

If I hit the magnet how will it come out? There's also a plastic brace on top of the tweeter? Do I need to break that also? Once I removed the speakers out, and put the aftermarket one, will it still be a tight fit? Thanks much!

If I hit the magnet how will it come out? There's also a plastic brace on top of the tweeter? Do I need to break that also? Once I removed the speakers out, and put the aftermarket one, will it still be a tight fit? Thanks much!

Yeah if you flip it over and take another pic, I will show you where to cut, you have to make two cuts on the other side if it is the non component speaker. And yes once you install everything it will be a perfect tight fit.

I think I know what to do :). Thank you so much for your help, appreciate it :)

I bought my speakers form crutchfield and they came with spacers. I drilled holes to mount the spacers. I also put some sound insulation under, behind and around it.

Seems like you must have some spacers, id have a hard time imagining aftermarket speakers fitting without them.

i believe it was these http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SGMQ656/GM-Speaker-Brackets.html?tp=919

Do you guys recommend getting aftermarket spacers or just modifying the stock brackets like how AMI customs did?

I didn't see evo x or mitsubishi on the crutchfield site. Does this fit our cars?

Anything else that needs to come with the install besides speaker spacers and MITO- 02? Anything important that I should know about before starting the job?:shades:

I reused the stock speakers as a spacer. The first speaker took about 5 minutes to cut. Then the other 3 took 5 minutes total. I was only able to put 2 screws in my new speakers to mount them to the old speakers, but they are pretty solid.

Dremel makes a bit that cuts the plastic very easily. It's well worth it for the bit. Also use the bit to cutout the actual paper on the speaker. Actually cuts it very easily.

Are you running new speaker wire or going to reuse the stock wire?

If you are going to reuse the stock wire, it is very tight. I actually drilled holes in the door so I could route the speaker wire back inside the car so that I could plug it back into the speaker. You will see what I mean when you take off the door panel.

Also, get a big flat head screw driver. It will help with popping off the door panel down the window section. You can use it to pop the snaps. The rest of the door comes off fairly easy.

doibugu2, any update on your evo speakers? thx

I just got some standard 1 inch spacers for the door speakers. I had a stereo shop do it so it was pretty easy for them.

Which speakers did you purchase ZK?

doibugu2, any update on your evo speakers? thx

I'm running them off the stock headunit which I think is fairly low in watts.

I'm not overly impressed with the speakers I got. They were inexpensive and I got what I paid for.

The tweeters on the front set don't come with a crossover that can be changed. So whatever JBL sets them at, that's how they stay.

I would look to spend a bit more, at least on the fronts.

Which speakers did you purchase ZK?

I have MB Quart Discus series speakers.