With the increasing ammount of stock clutches being wasted (Including my own) I thought it would be prudent to make a "Do it yourself" how to guide. Currently I am about 1/3 of the way through the write up and have made everything very detailed. I also decided to hire a Tech from Mitsubishi to assit me with this so I didn't miss any expert information that would be helpfull. The tech has been working on Mitsu's for years and has a lot of graet info for this so there will be no speciality tools needed.

I am trying to accomplish a few goals with this write up;

1. Covering every step in great detail for ease of install
2. Using the least amount of tools so the majority of people can do this.
3. Expanding the write up to include other parts you may want to replace while you are doing this so you won't have to strip the car down for future modifications.

Since there was such a great sale on the FP red's when my clutch went out I decided to pick one up and get it installed while I had more room to work, this install will also be included in a supliment How To.

In addition I would like to stress to some of you how fast the stock clutch deterorates. I had one of what I thought was the good ones because I didn't get the "Smell" from mine unless I had driven it hard for long periods of time. This is not a very good indicator and if you do have it then your time is probably getting close. Others that have had theirs go out have also mentioned that once their new clutch was installed it was like they picked up several horsepower. Looking back now on before I started getting the extreme slippage (Which happened very quickly) I can actually see what they are refering to. The power isn't being fully transfered even at cruising speeds. Once the clutch starts going its pretty much slipping constantly.

One thing I can think off right off hand is a strage gripping effect I would get while gearing down. Just pulling into a parking lot and gearing down to 1st or 2nd gear coasting to a stop. Once the rpm's dropped down and my foot was off the clutch and the car was coasting the car would all the sudden drop rpm quickly and it would slow down suddenly even though I wasn't touching any of the pedals. This was my clutch finally engaging fully.

So if there are any of you who have changed you own cluctch post up what you think I should go into more detail about and post up some of the experiences you remember about what was happening with your car just before it went out so others may have an idea of what to look for.

Like I said before MAPerformance is picking up the tab on having a certified tech help me with this so please people show your support for their company (Plus their clutch prices are insanely cheap). This will lead to other detailed how to's in the future I'm sure with the support of the community.
If you order one now you should have it ready to put in by the time I finish the write up and you'll save yourself enough money on doing it yourself you can finally drop in that turbo upgrade.
Also thank Joey Hauser for giving me the idea since has has been through 2 stock clutches and now is on his 3rd one before he decided to upgrade. After looking at what he was charged for a clutch install I though of all the extra parts I could justify just by doing it myself.

Contact Dave at MAP for a clutch quote, maybe if there is enough interest you can talk him into a group buy.
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/member.php?u=1761 (http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/member.php?u=1761)

Or call him @ 763-545-3800

The more we support guys like Dave the more we can keep information like this flowing freely.

Mine is sitting in the box ready to go in! This is just what I was looking for.

And yes MAPerformance is a great place to grab you clutch, or anything else!

Thanks hollywood and those involved, this will be a huge benefit to the community (including me!).

Oh awesome all mine just got here yesterday. This would save me a shit ton of money on install costs....Thanks

I think special attention to separating the trans from transfer case and how to manipulate it to get it out of the car. Also how to remove the throw out bearing. I had my clutch replaced by carmax (30 day warranty) and they ran into issues with removing the trans and the throw out bearing...

I think special attention to separating the trans from transfer case and how to manipulate it to get it out of the car. Also how to remove the throw out bearing. I had my clutch replaced by carmax (30 day warranty) and they ran into issues with removing the trans and the throw out bearing...

Yes, this will be very well noted and detailed since you have to do this from a small service hole under the tranny with a screw driver. This seems to be an area of concern with shops that aren't used to dealing with Mitsubishis set up and pass their learning experience off to the customer in the form of a larger bill.

This is shown in another thread that was just posted where it looks like the shop got so frustrated with getting it off they actually just used a torch to do it. Not a very good idea or practice.

Yes, this will be very well noted and detailed since you have to do this from a small service hole under the tranny with a screw driver. This seems to be an area of concern with shops that aren't used to dealing with Mitsubishis set up and pass their learning experience off to the customer in the form of a larger bill.

This is shown in another thread that was just posted where it looks like the shop got so frustrated with getting it off they actually just used a torch to do it. Not a very good idea or practice.

Yeah, I saw that thread with the torch, lol. when mine was done, they had an issue getting the tranny to clear steering rack I guess and that caused another headache, thus the bit about how to manipulate the tranny got get it to clear various underbody obstacles during removal.

what is the best clutch for daily driving, no track days, just spirited driving on and off the highway on the way to work, i have very basic mods and will not be increasing the HP beyond what I have

Yeah, I saw that thread with the torch, lol. when mine was done, they had an issue getting the tranny to clear steering rack I guess and that caused another headache, thus the bit about how to manipulate the tranny got get it to clear various underbody obstacles during removal.

These are all reasons I choose to do my own and why others take theirs to Mitsubishi. Some shops just want it done and out and Mitsu just charges an aram and a leg because they can.

One thing I can think off right off hand is a strage gripping effect I would get while gearing down. Just pulling into a parking lot and gearing down to 1st or 2nd gear coasting to a stop. Once the rpm's dropped down and my foot was off the clutch and the car was coasting the car would all the sudden drop rpm quickly and it would slow down suddenly even though I wasn't touching any of the pedals. This was my clutch finally engaging fully.


aww shit... really? I have the same exect thing :( i was hoping for a little while longer on my stocker. 7k miles at 350wtq must have done it in.


get this how to up asap and i'll mail ya a beer!

These are all reasons I choose to do my own and why others take theirs to Mitsubishi. Some shops just want it done and out and Mitsu just charges an aram and a leg because they can.
the only reason I let carmax even touch the car is because I did purchase it used from them and they covered the clutch under their 30-day warranty. It was not an easy decision, but I was not too keen on changing it myself on a car I had only had for a few days. When the replacement unit quits, I'll be installing the replacement myself. :p

what is the best clutch for daily driving, no track days, just spirited driving on and off the highway on the way to work, i have very basic mods and will not be increasing the HP beyond what I have

+1, also interested in a response to this...

aww shit... really? I have the same exect thing :( i was hoping for a little while longer on my stocker. 7k miles at 350wtq must have done it in.


get this how to up asap and i'll mail ya a beer!

Yeah its one of those signs you tend to overlook.
If you plan on keeping the stock turbo I would go with the Exedy stage 2 HD, or the Spec 2+ for daily driving purposes.

Also for those who don't do any kind of drag racing or auto cross save yourselves a little cash by having the stock flywheel resurfaced. Its really a good flywheel for a daily driver and not the reason these are failing.

If you do plan on doing alot of racing grab an aluminum flywheel.

what is the best clutch for daily driving, no track days, just spirited driving on and off the highway on the way to work, i have very basic mods and will not be increasing the HP beyond what I have

+1, also interested in a response to this...

Just think of your clutch system like your brakes, you press down the brake pedal and they grab the rotors. Your clutch is in essence the same thing except it transfers the power to your tires.

The flywheel is bolted up to the engine and is just like your brake rotors. Its the GRIP surface. The clutch disk is like your brake pads, and just like those depending on the material you get it will determine its longevity.
The softer the materials like aluminum the shorter the life span but they offer superior grip. Thats why they are used more for racing applications, they remove the high temp slipping isues that harder carbon steel has.

That being said look at the clutches and think of brakes;

First off here is a PUCK clutch;
http://www.specclutch.com/img/product-stage-4.png
Notice the solid hub in the center, this means there is no give. Its just grab and go! So perfect for racing where milli seconds count but when your slipping it in traffic your jerking your teeth out of your head. Next notice the PUCKS they are the fingers comming off of it. In this picture is showing 3 different varations of this one style of clutch (6, 4, and 3 puck)
WIth this design the grip material used is typically more aggressive.

This is a full faced or disk clutch;
http://www.specclutch.com/img/product-stage-3p.png

These are more for daily drivers because they can slip a little more before gripping due to friction material that is less aggressive and tends to need a little warming up to grab more.
Notice the springs in this one compared to the top clutch, these are to dampen or absorb some of the shock to the system but will take a little from instant power transfer.

So looking at these think of a motor spinning a wheel @ 5000 rpm and holding these to its surface. This is where the PRESSURE PLATE comes in (Think of it as a brake caliper), thats its job. Part of the reason the OEM clutches are going out is because the stock pressure plate isn't holding the the abrasive surfaces to the flywheel hard enough and causing the slipping to start.

So with that in mind now think of sandpaper and the different types of grit you can get. Some grits last longer and can be far more aggressive than others. The same applies to clutches thats why you see so many different varations from metallics, semi metallics, ceramics, kevlar, ect. Companies are always trying to balance grip, with longevity to out preform the others.

Keep all these factors in mind while making your choices on what to get. It all depends on your wants and driving styles.
For me I do some racing (Mostly let Joey race my car, thats why the clutch is out) and I am putting in an upgraded turbo. I also use this as my daily driver and want easy driving without the chatter or jerking. So I went with the Spec 3+, this thing can hold up to 450+ WHP & WTQ plus is a full face so no chatter.

If your not upgrading the turbo but you have all the other supporting mods, you will want the Spec 2+ for the same reasons but a little cheaper and holds a little less power.

If you guys have any question whatever they may be don't be afraid to PM me. I know some people don't want to post questions they may have for fear of being flamed or feeling dumb, so if you have any just hit me up.

so u prefer the spec stage 3+ over the supertwin ptrim they have?

I was thinking about getting the spec supertwin ptrim. but seems like the stage 3+ can hold the power level that i want.

so u prefer the spec stage 3+ over the supertwin ptrim they have?

I was thinking about getting the spec supertwin ptrim. but seems like the stage 3+ can hold the power level that i want.

I just can't afford the super twin is a far superior clutch that I believe has a higher rating for WHP and WTQ.
Edit; Just looked it up and the Super twins are insane! They can hold 700-1500 FT Torque

If you guys have any question whatever they may be don't be afraid to PM me. I know some people don't want to post questions they may have for fear of being flamed or feeling dumb, so if you have any just hit me up.

Dude, that was an amazing write-up, Thanks!!

Dude, that was an amazing write-up, Thanks!!

No problem :thumbup:
Sadly with my job in Engineering I can turn normal simple things into complicated messes, and I can take things that seem complicated and make them in to really goofy analogies. Its a gift :shades:

Its even worse when I am running all this crap through my head, sometimes it looks like that part in the Fast&Furious when Paul Walker hits the Nitrous in his car and they CG animate it so you can follow it through the motor. My brain does that... its sometimes good for problem solving.

Hollywood is the man! Now quit playing around on the forum and finish this how to!!!

cool thanks so much for the write up, sounds like with my basic needs the spec stage 2 will be a fine choice

Just for the record, when you're done with the write up, send it directly to me, I'll have it converted and up ASAP :)

Just for the record, when you're done with the write up, send it directly to me, I'll have it converted and up ASAP :)

I have done 3 or 4 write ups on things so far and none of them have ever been converted lol. I'll get it to you just as soon as I'm finished but when its done it will already be in PDF form so you won't have to do that part.

Hmm, have they been sent to me? If not, go ahead and re send them or link them to me.

Also, if possible, I'd rather not have them in PDF so I can roll through it, make small corrections and put it into EvoXForums.com format :)

This looks like an awersome thread hollywood. Looking fwd to the updates.


+1 on MAPerformance as well from me.

Also it would be great if we could do a little data collection so we can get an idea of clutch life for cars with specific driving styles and WHP/WTQ ranges. I'll go first --> Example;

Mileage; 9000
WHP; 350
WTQ; 350
# of launches; 25+
Driving style; Aggressive
Sign; Libra

I noticed mine started slipping after the drag races, at first the car just seemed sluggish but after a bit i realized the RPM needle jumping up on accel. I also noticed this far before I went to the drags just daily driving I would feel the sluggish feeling at times but a definate surge on decelleration at times.

Just something like that so we can start looking into what the life span maybe for those who race vs those who just do spirited driving.

Mileage: 22k
WHP: 300
WTQ: 300
Launches: 15+
Driving Style: Semi Agressive

my clutch is still ok (but its never felt how i think it should be)

3500 miles
stock hp/tq + exhaust/air filter
0 launches
normal to semi agressive driving style

Mileage: 12k
WHP: ~300
WTQ: ~325
Launches: 10+
Driving Style: Drive it like you stole it!!!!

Stocker is still going strong. Been tuned for a little over a month. No signs of slippage although I know it is bound to happen. I've already started the new clutch fund.

Mileage: 15k
WHP: ~330
WTQ: ~350
Launches: <5
Driving Style: DD casual about 80% of the time but almost every time I have the car our I have to open it up just a bit to make sure she still performs :-)

Mileage: 9600
Whp: ~330
Wtq: ~330
Driving: highway: 70%,city 25%, 5% autoX. 6-12 launches per autoX at 3-4k. Spirited driving. Stock clutch is still doing okay.

Just got my clutch installed. Not a fun job, but with the right how to information it would have been much easier!!
Here is all of the info I could find on it.
7291

Great, this will help a lot with anyone installing a clutch. Thanks to everyone who is contributing.

Yeah thats part of whats in the service manual, even the Mitsu tech I have scomming over to do this with me said he couldn't believe how vauge they left it.
You guys should be seeing my write up in the first week of October and it will be much more detailed.

sweet, can't wait!!

Thanks for the write-up, hollywood. However, I wish it would be coming out sooner as I'll be back home on Tuesday night and only have 3 days of vacation left to change my clutch. I'll be going in blind, but i'll take my time and try to do it right.

Question. Do you really need a slide hammer to get the axles out? I find that odd.

Question. Do you really need a slide hammer to get the axles out? I find that odd.

Yes or home made version of one

Another question. My apologies if i'm being bothersome...

Is bleeding the ACD the same way as the on the earlier gen evo's? Put key in the on position and press the accelorator?

Yes or home made version of one

I have a gigantic snap-on screwdriver with a bent tip. I'll just pry them off.

(Its really big :wackoff:) lol

looking forward to your october post. thanks for your efforts hollywood and MAP!!!

Destruction starts in 2 hours. I bought a another jack today with a transmission jack extension on it and a slide hammer.

So...

2 jacks
4 jackstands
1 slide hammer
a whole bunch of tools
Myself and a friend

I've changed the clutch on my GSX and my cousin's wrx's and sti's, but wish me luck! lol

Good luck, it's certainly a big task!

What a pain it was, just ask Trust how many stupid PM's I sent him :duh:

They aren't stupid lol it's freakin' hard the first time around, no doubt.

Hopefully the write up will make it faster and give you the ability to make it easier.
Getting closer to actually getting this all done! Here is the stock X flywheel after its beened turned. The guy said its a tough built flywheel and light compared to other cars. $35 to get it all done and took 2 hours.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7383&stc=1&d=1253726860

It would have taken half the time if I knew what I was doing!

It would have taken half the time if I knew what I was doing!

I''l write you a how to on women and sex later, lets stick to the subject of clutches for now k?

Does this include the curtain how to?

One last question. I promise!

Does the steering column HAVE to be removed?

One last question. I promise!

Does the steering column HAVE to be removed?

No

No


Sweet! Thank you!

Here are the steps I have planned out:

-Remove all necessary hardware in the engine bay. Intake, brackets, lines, starter, etc..
-Jack car up and support on 4 jack stands, high enough to work comfortably on my back.
-Drain all transmission fluid.
-Support the motor and transmission and remove the lower cross members. I think there are two to remove, i'll just remove whatever is in the way.
-Remove the LCA from both sides and pop the axles out from the tranny. I do not want to fully remove them. I'll just swing em out of the way.
-Separate the transfercase while trying to keep the the ACD line connected. Either secure it to the chassis somehow or support it with another jackstand. I'd rather not bleed the ACD system.
-Support transmission jack underneath tranny and remove bellhousing bolts.
-Pray, dance, and wiggle transmission loose.
-Pop the TOB off.
-Remove transmission.

And vwallah, I should have access to my clutch.

Does that sound right?

Pop TOB loose then pray dance and wiggle.
You have to move the fork to the passanger side position and get the screwdriver in perefectly to POP it off.

Pop TOB loose then pray dance and wiggle.
You have to move the fork to the passanger side position and get the screwdriver in perefectly to POP it off.

Sounds good. I read somewhere to slide tranny out an inch or two and it will give you more room to the TOB. If its accessible prior to pulling it out, i'd rather do that.

Thanks for all your help, Hollywood. holla

I had a nasty time with the TOB. I actually called Mitsu and they said use a pry bar.
It came out.

I would lower the subframe holding the steering rack to give you room to pull trans out. you can simply loosen the long bolt and leave it hanging on bolts. That way you don't have to unbolt the steering rack. I took mine completely out and took me a while to put it all back together. DOn't forget slide hammer to get the axle stubs out of transfer case.

Sweet! Thank you!

Here are the steps I have planned out:

-Remove all necessary hardware in the engine bay. Intake, brackets, lines, starter, etc..
-Jack car up and support on 4 jack stands, high enough to work comfortably on my back.
-Drain all transmission fluid.
-Support the motor and transmission and remove the lower cross members. I think there are two to remove, i'll just remove whatever is in the way.
-Remove the LCA from both sides and pop the axles out from the tranny. I do not want to fully remove them. I'll just swing em out of the way.
-Separate the transfercase while trying to keep the the ACD line connected. Either secure it to the chassis somehow or support it with another jackstand. I'd rather not bleed the ACD system.
-Support transmission jack underneath tranny and remove bellhousing bolts.
-Pray, dance, and wiggle transmission loose.
-Pop the TOB off.
-Remove transmission.

And vwallah, I should have access to my clutch.

Does that sound right?

That will be an epic how to....

Still would not ease my nerves of doing something on that scale!

Well, day one is over.

I did not use the slide hammer for the axles. I wedged a long metal file between the end of the axle stub and the tranny/transfercase and gave it one good shot with a BFH and they popped right out. For a car that isn't even a year old yet, the LCA's and tie-rod ends were stuck pretty damn good, but we got them out with some force and again, a BFH. And, I found some surface rusts on welds on the cross member. I wasn't expecting that from a car with only 18k miles or that has been driven for only a year.

So, everything around the tranny is out. The axles are out. The front driveshaft is out. I have 4 more bolts in the transfercase left to remove and then the tranny itself. Those two bolts look like hell to get to on top. I removed the intake pipe from the turbo which should give me more access with an open ended wrench. But, I only can find the bottom three bolts and the two top which are right underneath the turbo. I'll keep like for the other two. No real issues so far. What's left is the hardest part, but I have a buddy helping me and we're taking our time to make sure we do things right and not cause any problems.

awesome! I can't wait for this. I'm due pretty soon. 26k on stock clutch so far.

Well, day one is over.

I did not use the slide hammer for the axles. I wedged a long metal file between the end of the axle stub and the tranny/transfercase and gave it one good shot with a BFH and they popped right out. For a car that isn't even a year old yet, the LCA's and tie-rod ends were stuck pretty damn good, but we got them out with some force and again, a BFH. And, I found some surface rusts on welds on the cross member. I wasn't expecting that from a car with only 18k miles or that has been driven for only a year.

So, everything around the tranny is out. The axles are out. The front driveshaft is out. I have 4 more bolts in the transfercase left to remove and then the tranny itself. Those two bolts look like hell to get to on top. I removed the intake pipe from the turbo which should give me more access with an open ended wrench. But, I only can find the bottom three bolts and the two top which are right underneath the turbo. I'll keep like for the other two. No real issues so far. What's left is the hardest part, but I have a buddy helping me and we're taking our time to make sure we do things right and not cause any problems.

There are a couple bolts you can't see at all also. For the two that you are thinking FUCK right now for use a long 8 or 10 inch extention and you can snake th socket under the water line to get to them.

Transfercase is out! Thank god. There are only 6 bolts holding it in. All of them are the same size except a really long one underneath the ACD line heat shield. I did not disconnect my ACD line. The transfercase is pulled away from the tranny and leaning on the subframe and a jackstand. TOB and trans are next.


My friend and I are both pretty mechanically inclined and this has been by far the hardest work we've ever done including swapping Honda motors and clutch jobs on DSM's and Subbies.

For the record, taking the TOB out has been the hardest part of the operation. lol

Its been nearly two hours and we cannot get the fucker out.

For the record, taking the TOB out has been the hardest part of the operation. lol

Its been nearly two hours and we cannot get the fucker out.

Haha...I had the same problem. I mangled up my TOB, so I had to take each of the pressure plate bolts out one by one, 12mm if I remembered right.

So day two finished up with a not so happy ending. The TOB is still pretty stuck in and its going to look like i'm going to have to drop the subframe. That is something I did not want to do. I'm very close to the position of putting the car back together and towing it to satan.

^Why are you dropping the subframe?

I can't get this damn Transmission out without dropping it.

I would lower the subframe holding the steering rack to give you room to pull trans out. you can simply loosen the long bolt and leave it hanging on bolts. That way you don't have to unbolt the steering rack. I took mine completely out and took me a while to put it all back together. DOn't forget slide hammer to get the axle stubs out of transfer case.


Do I have to remove any of the steering lines?

I can't get this damn Transmission out without dropping it.

Did you take the mounts completely off the tranny(front, side, rear)? If so, you need to rotate the tranny counter clockwise and the tranny should come right out, as long as the TOB is released or the pressure plate bolts are taken out.

Did you take the mounts completely off the tranny(front, side, rear)? If so, you need to rotate the tranny counter clockwise and the tranny should come right out, as long as the TOB is released or the pressure plate bolts are taken out.

Yes the front, side, and rear mounts are off. I'm going to make a new thread to not clutter up this one.

Yes the front, side, and rear mounts are off. I'm going to make a new thread to not clutter up this one.

This kind of info is what thisthread was for. :nerd:
Also you don't have to drop or remove the sub frame but if its easier for you go ahead. In addition no steering lines have to be pulled either.

I will make sure in my write up that this is all covered very thourough.

This kind of info is what thisthread was for. :nerd:
Also you don't have to drop or remove the sub frame but if its easier for you go ahead. In addition no steering lines have to be pulled either.

I will make sure in my write up that this is all covered very thourough.

My clutch was slipping with the onset of boost but it was driveable. I should have waited for your write-up. :whipping:

My clutch was slipping with the onset of boost but it was driveable. I should have waited for your write-up. :whipping:

This was the whole reason I decided to do this. I want people to have the option of doing it themselves and feel comfortable doing so. Since I had already talked to the Mitsu tech who has done a few he don't think these are hard at all, its just a matter of knowing what your looking at and what steps to take.

The guy on here that just posted pictures of his torched pressure plate is a prime example. Couldn't get the TOB off and went to cutting. For this reason I will have disengaging the TOB as one of the first things you do before stripping everything down, that way if there is any issue the car isn't stripped down.

My Tech will be here bright and early tomorrow morning so we can get this done. Please again people this wouldn't be possiable without help from Dave @ MAPerformance so if you are in need of a cluctch or any other part please hit him up so we can do more of these.

Will the write-up be complete by next weekend? My friend doesn't have a problem with me leaving my car in his garage till then.

And for the record, I did purchase my clutch and all fluids from Dave @ MAP. He's a real great guy and was very helpful over the phone. I bought my exhaust and gauges from him too and its always a pleasure.

Hmm This thread has me contemplating doing my clutch job. I've only done my old FWD Taurus which was cable actuated, not fluid. I'll wait and see how hard it seems from the guide. Thanks Hollywood for all the hard work.

Oh its going to be hard even with the guide! wait till you see how hard to get to some of the tcase bolts are! lol

Oh its going to be hard even with the guide! wait till you see how hard to get to some of the tcase bolts are! lol

I thought so to until I was shown the easy route to go on the bolts. I felt so dumb that I didn't realize the easy route sooner. Its only hard if you are trying to fly through it blindly really.

Tranny is out!

Tranny is out!

Back to the closet with you!

So we started around 10 am and installed;

Clutch
Turbo
Injectors
and some other small pretty stuff, and we were done by 10pm.
This also included taking the pictures and doing the write up as we went. Then we took a 3 hour dinner break after we got the tranny back in.

I already had the car up on jack stands and most everything stripped away around the engine bay plus the plastic parts and the front pulled off so it wasn't all that fast but went smooth. I should have the final version all typed up here in a few days. I don't want to rush it and miss anything but its coming.

thanks hollywood. Can't wait. Kinda making me feel confident about doing this lol.

:props:

ALL HAIL HOLYWOOD. Guy.. Thanks for putting in the time and effort into this write up. My clutch is starting to misbehave and I hear a sorta click when I push down on my clutch pedal. I'm really confused as to what is making that noise. It only happens when the car is warmed up and is clearly audible when shifting 1-2 and 2-3.. There on I hear no clicks when depressing the clutch pedal :deadhorse:

Any thoughts or has anyone experienced this?

So we started around 10 am and installed;

Clutch
Turbo
Injectors
and some other small pretty stuff, and we were done by 10pm.
This also included taking the pictures and doing the write up as we went. Then we took a 3 hour dinner break after we got the tranny back in.

I already had the car up on jack stands and most everything stripped away around the engine bay plus the plastic parts and the front pulled off so it wasn't all that fast but went smooth. I should have the final version all typed up here in a few days. I don't want to rush it and miss anything but its coming.

When it's finished and it's good, free t-shirt for you. This goes for any major how-to!

When it's finished and it's good, free t-shirt for you. This goes for any major how-to!

Do I get to pick the Tshirt? lol

Do I get to pick the Tshirt? lol

Only out of what I have on hand.

I'm needing a little help on the write up, Im on page 12 right now and I am trying to get the info on all the tools straight so when someone uses this they have everything they need on hand.

What I need is a size on the thread for using a slide hammer on pulling the axle stub out of the transfer case. Does anyone have that? I know its the same thread the 12mm bolts used in the car have but I need to put it in terms for when someone goes tool shopping. Its like M10x1.5 or something like that but I need a for sure number.

Getting close just trying to make it all easy to follow without missing steps or getting things out of order.

What about the online service manuals, have you checked there yet?

Should be an awesome write up. I will be doing my clutch soon.

You can find the write up here.
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20625

Holy crap, nice write up.

I know it may be picky, but do you have the non-compressed file? The pictures could be clearer for us noob types.

I'll be doing this next summer or winter, depending on if my stock clutch can last that long.

If you have the uncompressed file, I'll convert it to EvoXForums format (Keeping the MAP stuff in there) and put it as an official how to. PM me if you have it so we can exchange emails.

If you have the uncompressed file, I'll convert it to EvoXForums format (Keeping the MAP stuff in there) and put it as an official how to. PM me if you have it so we can exchange emails.

I do but I'll have to run it by Dave first since its really his property now.

Alright, have him get into contact with me if he has questions/comments/concerns.

Holy. Jebus

thats a write up and a half

Awesome

Amazing write up!

awesome thanks!

Yes i have looked around a little to try and find info, but havnt had any luck,

Would any one be kind enough to direct me to a thread where the dates/times of speed round starts are listed please?

Thank you.

WTF? Spam or just bad language?

haha, prob someone with multiple windows open & didn't realize which post he replied to.. ?

haha, prob someone with multiple windows open & didn't realize which post he replied to.. ?

Only second post though, and avatar looks like spam potential

could be... no links/pictures/advertising makes me think its not spam tho

hey, i'm about to change my clutch soon and i was wondering do i have to take out my transfercase?

hey, i'm about to change my clutch soon and i was wondering do i have to take out my transfercase?

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20757

do you think someone who has only changed oil, and air filters in a car can get the necessary tools, follow your instructions, and install the clutch properly or should they just take it to a shop?

do you think someone who has only changed oil, and air filters in a car can get the necessary tools, follow your instructions, and install the clutch properly or should they just take it to a shop?

I have read thru the write up and hollywood did a great job, I have done engine swaps and tranny jobs on V8's and V6's and it is not worth my all day time to waste on the evo, I paid someone to do mine, just because I know the headache involved in doing so, so unless you are very motivated I would say take it to a shop.

do you think someone who has only changed oil, and air filters in a car can get the necessary tools, follow your instructions, and install the clutch properly or should they just take it to a shop?

If thats all you have done then I would say take it to a shop. Or pay a shop mechanic 1/2 price under the table to come over to your place and do it.

Come on guys, it's all just nuts and bolts :innocent:

Do both axle stubs have to be removed? Or just the drivers side?

(EDIT - I ended up pulling them both)

BB

hey hollywood approx. how much room should i leave when jacking up the car. im not huge im 5'9" and about 140 lbs so i can manuever around fine but im worried about not having the clearance to slid the tranny out. thanks will be tool shopping tomorrow most likely to get a slide hammer thats about all i need.

Man, my clutch just went on me but there's no way I'll be confident enough to tackle this. Anyone in the new england area want to do my clutch under the table? All of the quotes I am getting are just ridiculous.

sunscribed for future purposes

Well, after taking 1st place in our local auto-X. My stock clutch is starting to slip. Almost 25,000 miles with most bolt ons and hard driving. Not looking foward to doing the labor, or paying the price for shipping a new clutch to Guam.

Quick question, how long will the stock clutch last after it starts slipping if you keep it out of the boost? It might take a while for the new clutch to get here.

Well, after taking 1st place in our local auto-X. My stock clutch is starting to slip. Almost 25,000 miles with most bolt ons and hard driving. Not looking foward to doing the labor, or paying the price for shipping a new clutch to Guam.

Quick question, how long will the stock clutch last after it starts slipping if you keep it out of the boost? It might take a while for the new clutch to get here.

Not long at all

I have 8500 miles on my EVO when driving it and i get aggressive i get an RPM spike of about 1-2k RPM then it comes back down. I have posted and people have said its a clutch issue, i called the dealership and the guy said i need to bring it down. Its not warrantied so i really dont want to drive 90 miles when they dealer said its around 2200 for a clutch job. I was looking at doing it myself but dont know much about changing stuff myself. A local shop said they would charge 850 just for labor. Is that reasonable or is it possible that my clutch needs to be adjusted? It grabs about 1-2 inches down from the top, in my experience its kind of high. This is my first evo, if possible how hard is it to adjust? The shop i called said the 4-6 puck clutches would be decent but wouldnt last me more than 10-12k tops. I am looking for a clutch i can daily drive and my goal is around 400-450 WHP. I have researched and havent found much. Anyone have any suggestions?

I have 8500 miles on my EVO when driving it and i get aggressive i get an RPM spike of about 1-2k RPM then it comes back down. I have posted and people have said its a clutch issue, i called the dealership and the guy said i need to bring it down. Its not warrantied so i really dont want to drive 90 miles when they dealer said its around 2200 for a clutch job. I was looking at doing it myself but dont know much about changing stuff myself. A local shop said they would charge 850 just for labor. Is that reasonable or is it possible that my clutch needs to be adjusted? It grabs about 1-2 inches down from the top, in my experience its kind of high. This is my first evo, if possible how hard is it to adjust? The shop i called said the 4-6 puck clutches would be decent but wouldnt last me more than 10-12k tops. I am looking for a clutch i can daily drive and my goal is around 400-450 WHP. I have researched and havent found much. Anyone have any suggestions?

There are many threads on what Clutch to buy depending on WHP goals... Most will tell you Spec 3+, Clutchmaster FX400, Exedy Stage 4

I have 8500 miles on my EVO when driving it and i get aggressive i get an RPM spike of about 1-2k RPM then it comes back down. I have posted and people have said its a clutch issue, i called the dealership and the guy said i need to bring it down. Its not warrantied so i really dont want to drive 90 miles when they dealer said its around 2200 for a clutch job. I was looking at doing it myself but dont know much about changing stuff myself. A local shop said they would charge 850 just for labor. Is that reasonable or is it possible that my clutch needs to be adjusted? It grabs about 1-2 inches down from the top, in my experience its kind of high. This is my first evo, if possible how hard is it to adjust? The shop i called said the 4-6 puck clutches would be decent but wouldnt last me more than 10-12k tops. I am looking for a clutch i can daily drive and my goal is around 400-450 WHP. I have researched and havent found much. Anyone have any suggestions?

Don't get a puck clutch unless you plan to use it at the track a lot & change clutches often. 850 for labor isn't bad. You might check out Spec 2 or 3 series clutches. If you've never done anything involving on a car/Evo you may want a shop to do it.

I have 8500 miles on my EVO when driving it and i get aggressive i get an RPM spike of about 1-2k RPM then it comes back down. I have posted and people have said its a clutch issue, i called the dealership and the guy said i need to bring it down. Its not warrantied so i really dont want to drive 90 miles when they dealer said its around 2200 for a clutch job. I was looking at doing it myself but dont know much about changing stuff myself. A local shop said they would charge 850 just for labor. Is that reasonable or is it possible that my clutch needs to be adjusted? It grabs about 1-2 inches down from the top, in my experience its kind of high. This is my first evo, if possible how hard is it to adjust? The shop i called said the 4-6 puck clutches would be decent but wouldnt last me more than 10-12k tops. I am looking for a clutch i can daily drive and my goal is around 400-450 WHP. I have researched and havent found much. Anyone have any suggestions?

8500 miles? I believe that goes under warranty, past 12k miles is when your wear and tear warranty expires.

Ya i dont plan on tracking the car, just occasionally spirited driving is all. Any clue how long a spec 3+ or fx400 should last. I dont want to be replacing the clutch every 10-15k miles lol. I called the dealer ship, the mechanic said it sounded like the clutch which isnt covered, they can pull the tranny and if its a defect they will cover it. If not itll be 1000 just to pull the tranny to look and it would be considered ware and tear. I could understand if i drove it like a jackass, but at 8500 for it to go out. I was in shock. Sorry for the thread jack.

Clutch life varies with driving habits, so giving a life expectancy is difficult. Some guys will get 80K miles while others only get 5K or so. As for warranty, there is NO warranty on the clutch at all. It's expressly excluded.

Ya that makes sense, i just dont want a clutch ill have to replace in another 10k miles. I dont really launch or do anything like that so i just want a strong clutch that will last me a while anyways LOL. I know that all depends on how hard i drive it. Ill keep looking around. Thanks for the input guys.