Ok as some of you all know I have had my car in the shop for almost two months. It started when my Master Clutch Cylinder ruptured. Murphy's law, it broke when I was in the process of breaking up with my girlfriend of seven years, whom I lived with. Had to move, break lease, and just paid SDSU tuition. I had no money to replace the part so I made an agreement to borrow a car and save money. In the mean time allowing the person who let me borrow his car to make a wide body kit for my car.

Ok here is the meat of the story. I just got my car back while they finish the the kit off from the molds they made. I found two solutions. Btw since I have an after market clutch the dealership said that I was not under warranty. Aint that a bitch, clutch broke at 8000 miles, which at that pt my car acquired from my DD of 90 miles round trip ( all freeway almost no shifting) The solutions are the AMS support ring which I bought. The mechanic from the dealership actually laughed at the part and said that won't do anything, sorry AMS, and there is another company that is fair priced that requires you to send in your clutch pedal assembly so they can fabricate the fitting of the EVO IX MC which is better made but still costs around 600 for the whole thing. I can't believe that MITSU actually made a master clutch cylinder out of plastic. 36000 for that... Wonder how the MR is holding up with such cheap parts are being put in.

Anyways over at Ball Mitsubishi I was told that they have a X in there every two weeks paying to get the part replaced, and was told that this should have a recall. We need to ban together to get this part Recalled... I am also worried about the Tranny I guess a lot of folks are coming in with holes in them.
Call This Number 18886487820,
and when you have called Post your story of what Mitsu said and how or why your MC broke

Also most I am sure know this already, but you can call this number if you need a tow to a mitsu dealership if your car is not able to get there and its free!:clap:

hasn't happened to me yet, but this kind of stuff scares the shit outta me since the X is my DD and only car I have.

Sad story.

Yes yes it is but hardly the point. Mitsubishi will continue to to charge people for something that would be re designed until people tell them the issue. Once the threat of a law suit seems evident ( or that their could be one) mitsubishi will cut losses and issue a recall. A mitsubishi mechanic said that there should be a recall, that to me says... lets get this done.
Even people w/o clutch replacements are at risk. I have read the posts from them, and not from misuse. But if you have a AM clutch with a stiffer pressure plate, it is only a question of when it seems.

Surferdon give me a call if get a chance.

SSP
605-359-7829

I got mine replaced already @ around 4k miles. Never had a problem, just figured why not have it done. The car is there at the shop anyway, so it wont hurt. Apparently if the master cylinder does go, there could be much more damage then just that specific part.

Surferdon give me a call if get a chance.

SSP
605-359-7829

I am studying now for midterms and wont be done here until about 8 pacific time, will that be too late to call?

I got mine replaced already @ around 4k miles. Never had a problem, just figured why not have it done. The car is there at the shop anyway, so it wont hurt. Apparently if the master cylinder does go, there could be much more damage then just that specific part.

Like What?

Mine gone today. After install of Carbonetic clutch. 10 miles driving with new clutch and then "pof". I just can't belive that Mitsu made this of plastic. Idiots!

broke mine twice, ended up replacing the 2nd time with a evo 9 jank.

My AM clutch(exedy stage 2 HD) ;asted 11,000 miles before the MC seperated and then I replaced it with anotherstock MC + the AMS ring and the car lasted a day and a half and then it started leaking internally so I said screw it and did the IX conversion.

what do you need to convert?

holy crap. this even further makes me not want my evo. fuckin mitsubishi, what a bunch of bitches. guess ill just not drive too hard for a while. dammit.

holy crap. this even further makes me not want my evo. fuckin mitsubishi, what a bunch of bitches. guess ill just not drive too hard for a while. dammit.

Sorry but the first time the MC went out I was pulling slowly out of a parking space and pressed the clutch pedal in to put it in 1st and it slammed to the floor. The second time I was in traffic in the turning lane and shifted into pressed the clutch to shift into second and it slammed to the floor again.

I don't know much about cars but I just had this thought. I notice that whenever I drive hard I never push the clutch all the way in so I can shift faster but whenever I drive slow I usually push the clutch all the way to the floor. Does how far you press the clutch pedal in effect the pressure put on the MC?

what do you need to convert?

There's a place that does the conversion. I don't remember what the name of the place is. A friend of mine did all the fab work on the clutch pedal assembley so I would have to talk to him. I don't think I would suggest to you to do it yourself though. I don't know about others that have done the conversion, but I really don't like the changes that the conversion made; how the clutch engages, how the pedal sits a little higher than stock, or where the clutch engages now(for dd that is)

Tj have you driven your evo since the conversion? Does it feel different? Engage/ pedal height?

Tj have you driven your evo since the conversion? Does it feel different? Engage/ pedal height?


No Sir:

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20329

doin everything at once :thumbup:

There is an easy fix for this.

There is an easy fix for this.

care to share?

I think I hold the record here.
3 stock MC then to 9MC and never look back since.

There is an easy fix for this.

care to share?

Yeah man, you can't just leave it at that.

We have developed a part for our motorsport program and we sell that part to our customers, basically it strengthens the Master slave Cylinder so if it fatigues it will hold together without turning into a Lego explosion with losing control of the clutch being the outcome.

Since I'm not a vendor here and gave never checked the forum rules regarding vendors and (knowing some forums rules can be strict on matters in regards to what they can or cannot discuss about their products) I'd rather not go into further detail, especially without sounding like an infomercial or just trying to make a quick buck.

This part would help the serious track enthusiast and perhaps save them should it fail when the red mist is down and you have your ‘race face’on. It won't stop the Master Slave Cylinder from fatiguing in the first place. It's more about minimizing risk for your drivers as a race team.

For what it’s worth, in a road car application most Master slave Cylinders have failed because owners/mechanics have upgraded their clutch packs without realizing what stress they are putting on other parts of their car by ‘miss-matching’ their clutch disc and pressure plates. Having your Master slave Cylinder fail is just one possible outcome you can get from a miss match with your clutch pack choice.

still need to get mine done as well.

how difficult is it to install the AMS clutch master cylinder reinforcement ring?

It's not an easy task, takes about 2 hours IIRC.

I have a ring that I will give to someone if they need it. I dropped on the garage floor so it has a few dings in it but I don't think it matters considering where the MC is located.

AMI Customs & SSP are developing a fully alum replacement master cylinder, you won't have to ever worry about anything.

that's great I would def switch to that becase I hate the conversion

AMI Customs & SSP are developing a fully alum replacement master cylinder, you won't have to ever worry about anything.

Now that's what I'm talking about. Will it be available by the beginning of next year?

Great news!

Now that's what I'm talking about. Will it be available by the beginning of next year?

Probably by next month!!!! It will be a direct factory replacement, no modding or any kind of conversion.

Buyer nr.1 is here.:shades:

Probably by next month!!!! It will be a direct factory replacement, no modding or any kind of conversion.

I'll buy one. It's all I think about every time I drive the car and I'm going insane thinking about it.

newb here. is the plastic stock master clutch cyclinder something that will go out any minute even if you are running completely stock and doing the occasional on ramp pulls, nothing crazy. Or is it because the additional power from mods and tracking that will cause it to fail? if its the former, WTF mitsubishi?

since this is on topic i have a quick question...what are the people who are running 10's using?? like ETS, BVP and the rest of them?? they have a beefy ass clutch and TONS of power and they have to have something but what?

since this is on topic i have a quick question...what are the people who are running 10's using?? like ETS, BVP and the rest of them?? they have a beefy ass clutch and TONS of power and they have to have something but what?

Look at the carbonetic twins and triples. It can be done with less though.

Look at the carbonetic twins and triples. It can be done with less though.

what do you mean? am i missing something here?? my question was, what do they do to keep the clutch master cylinder from breaking?

what do you mean? am i missing something here?? my question was, what do they do to keep the clutch master cylinder from breaking?

My bad, I thought you were talking about what clutch a lot of them use. The tilton race master cylinder is popular and will fit when modded just like the IX master cyl. I know a few are running that.

My bad, I thought you were talking about what clutch a lot of them use. The tilton race master cylinder is popular and will fit when modded just like the IX master cyl. I know a few are running that.

yea im not worried about the clutch...i myself am running an Exedy Twn and i know ETS is running a triple of some sort and there are tons of clutches that will handle the power. I was just curious on what people who run consistent 10's or low 11's have done to have no worries about there clutch master cylinder.

Probably by next month!!!! It will be a direct factory replacement, no modding or any kind of conversion.

did you ever call my boys on that?

newb here. is the plastic stock master clutch cyclinder something that will go out any minute even if you are running completely stock and doing the occasional on ramp pulls, nothing crazy. Or is it because the additional power from mods and tracking that will cause it to fail? if its the former, WTF mitsubishi?

Please help the newb. Can someone give a definitive to my question. I read the whole thread and seems like its a piece of f**kin shit. in other words, after paying 36k for a car you should not drive it cuz your clutch can go any moment, even completely stock and normal dd. AND there is no recall or effort to do anything about it by mitsu. instead we have to wait almost 2 years after its launch for aftermarket developers to solve mitsu's problems. (thank god for the aftermarket). don't mind the rant, just peeved cuz i dont' know if should be driving my car to work tomorrow.

Please help the newb. Can someone give a definitive to my question. I read the whole thread and seems like its a piece of f**kin shit. in other words, after paying 36k for a car you should not drive it cuz your clutch can go any moment, even completely stock and normal dd. AND there is no recall or effort to do anything about it by mitsu. instead we have to wait almost 2 years after its launch for aftermarket developers to solve mitsu's problems. (thank god for the aftermarket). don't mind the rant, just peeved cuz i dont' know if should be driving my car to work tomorrow.

You have no guarantees on any part on your vehicle. Anything can go bad at any time. There are expected life cycles and such, but once again that's not guaranteed. Luckily, warranty helps out with most issues unless you void the warranty. That's all the advice I can give you and the newb.

Why not just get a tilton master?

Why not just get a tilton master?

I think that's a good option. Most people don't want to have to mess with finding the perfect bore size so pedal isn't too stiff, changing to braided an fitting clutch hose, modifying housing to fit the master cylinder, finding the right size threaded eyelet, and messing with the eyelet to get a perfect pedal height. If you're mechanically inclined, it's a very quick option b/c major hot rod companies on the web have these in stock, and you could get it next day.

I think that's a good option. Most people don't want to have to mess with finding the perfect bore size so pedal isn't too stiff, changing to braided an fitting clutch hose, modifying housing to fit the master cylinder, finding the right size threaded eyelet, and messing with the eyelet to get a perfect pedal height. If you're mechanically inclined, it's a very quick option b/c major hot rod companies on the web have these in stock, and you could get it next day.

I ordered it just now. 76 series with 3/4" bore. Saw some1 on the evom who did it. So we'll give a shot once my Dom 2 eats my clutch lol :thumbup:

i just replaced my clutch with another stock one (which was retarded- should spent the extra money on a decent one since everything was apart anyways) but the work order/ receipt says it's guaranteed for 1 year/20,000 k so I would think this covers the replacement of the clutch if it breaks down again. My first one was shredded by the last owner and i don't drive it that hard..so I hope to not have to replace it again. but at least they're guaranteeing it for a year,.. i think.

i just replaced my clutch with another stock one (which was retarded- should spent the extra money on a decent one since everything was apart anyways) but the work order/ receipt says it's guaranteed for 1 year/20,000 k so I would think this covers the replacement of the clutch if it breaks down again. My first one was shredded by the last owner and i don't drive it that hard..so I hope to not have to replace it again. but at least they're guaranteeing it for a year,.. i think.


If you had the dealer replace it then chances are they won't put an aftermarket clutch in, usually only stock.

if it's not covered under warranty why would they care?

if it's not covered under warranty why would they care?

The dealers argument or at least the two in my area, say that with an aftermarket clutch it is harder on the transmission and can cause it to fail and then they would have to warranty the tranney due to the fact they installed the clutch. I have been told by a few dealers, out of state ones, that this is how mitsu engineered the car, the clutch to be the weak point and replace that instead of the transmission. Now, having said all of that, I am still putting an aftermarket clutch in, because I don't buy the above statements from mitsu.

I ordered it just now. 76 series with 3/4" bore. Saw some1 on the evom who did it. So we'll give a shot once my Dom 2 eats my clutch lol :thumbup:

Good choice of bore size, that should have a good pedal feel.

The dealers argument or at least the two in my area, say that with an aftermarket clutch it is harder on the transmission and can cause it to fail and then they would have to warranty the tranney due to the fact they installed the clutch. I have been told by a few dealers, out of state ones, that this is how mitsu engineered the car, the clutch to be the weak point and replace that instead of the transmission. Now, having said all of that, I am still putting an aftermarket clutch in, because I don't buy the above statements from mitsu.


wow, thats pretty bad- maybe it's wayy under designed then- either way i'd put in a stage 2 if I could do it again cause i bet that would still go before the tranny

OK OK
This is all fine and dandy, but apparently no one noticed the point of this thread...

I have almost 900 views on this page yet no one called.

This is not a topic on which clutch to get or how the clutch is the weak pt, it is the fact that even people with stock clutches are having this issue. If folks call in to report this as an issue mitsu can and will recall the part...

I already have a 600 mo car payment, and now have spent over 2500 in repairs

OK OK
This is all fine and dandy, but apparently no one noticed the point of this thread...

I have almost 900 views on this page yet no one called.

This is not a topic on which clutch to get or how the clutch is the weak pt, it is the fact that even people with stock clutches are having this issue. If folks call in to report this as an issue mitsu can and will recall the part...

I already have a 600 mo car payment, and now have spent over 2500 in repairs

Actually I have called mitsu, told them of the issue, there response was it is not a safety issue, therefore no recall. There was a very long discussion between me and a few reps, but to get to the point no recall will be made for this, unless there is proof of a safety issue. Sorry

Actually I have called mitsu, told them of the issue, there response was it is not a safety issue, therefore no recall. There was a very long discussion between me and a few reps, but to get to the point no recall will be made for this, unless there is proof of a safety issue. Sorry

surferdon, the above is something a lot of us already know and/or have been through before. I personally wasn't wasting my time again to hear that response.

^^ No One got hurt from a hood latch either.

^ Sorry was not trying to waste your time, It does say however, call mitsu then post. So everything else is unnecessary. But when you have a mitsu mechanic even say hey have ppl call mistu will recall this if the threat of a lawsuit is greater...

My second CMC bit the dust today. And that was with AMS ring installed. I hope solution will be found soon for this problem. But until then, I guess, I'll have to swap a couple more.

So AMS ring doesn't solve this problem for long time. How long your MCC lasts with ring?

Anybody have a picture of broken cylinder and one mounted on pedal? Just to see where is a weak point. Thanks!

Look at the attached image with the ring installed, the fail point is right behind the ring, that is the weak point and where all the pressure builds when you depress the clutch, that is when they break.

how far along is the direct replacement?

Thanks for picture. Meantime seen this on my own car. Now I drive with ring but I'm not shure that ring can hold that for a long time with Carbonetic clutch kit.

My second CMC bit the dust today. And that was with AMS ring installed. I hope solution will be found soon for this problem. But until then, I guess, I'll have to swap a couple more.



How long does this take to remove from the car and re-install? I heard its tough....

2 hours (mechanic)

Also waiting for the replacemnt master cylinder to come out. I'll take the first one off the line please, my car is sitting in front of my house like a dead stick living up to that piece of shit Mitsubishi badge on its trunk.

My secound one just went out this past saturday infront of my girlfriend house.I can't wait untill SSP starts sendingout there clutch master kit.

It is starting to look promising, we have been doing the prelim testing and we have a working prototype that pumps brake fluid, we have a few more details to work out but it is getting very close to full production. And oh my this thing is beefy!!!! It is impressive, the total look is quite a bit different from the first prototype picture floating around.

Good, I hope it gets the thumbs up soon, like next week.

Yea, not that I want you guys to rush things but my car is sitting in front of my house and it really sucks. haha

^^ No One got hurt from a hood latch either.

^ Sorry was not trying to waste your time, It does say however, call mitsu then post. So everything else is unnecessary. But when you have a mitsu mechanic even say hey have ppl call mistu will recall this if the threat of a lawsuit is greater...

lol, ya maybe you can find an evo driving lawyer that's had this problem too.

just one more "QUICKLY!" comment.. for AMI and SSP!! Hehehe...

If I don't have a good resolution for this issue by this week im having Mitsubishi replace it with another stock part and im getting rid of the car.

New Upgraded Clutch Master Cylinder is ready to hit the market for full Production. We just finished the final road testing on it tonight. It is absolutely amazing, the pedal feel is firm and smooth and feels great. We did a few launches, some 4 wheel burnouts, some gears changes at 7600 rpm. It passes all of our testing!!! Here is some installed pics.

http://www.ami-customs.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=watermark&id=170&catid=15&orig=1&no_html=1&Itemid=13

http://www.ami-customs.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=watermark&id=169&catid=15&orig=1&no_html=1&Itemid=13

This is the stage 1 master.

Sweet deal, good to hear

New Upgraded Clutch Master Cylinder is ready to hit the market for full Production. We just finished the final road testing on it tonight. It is absolutely amazing, the pedal feel is firm and smooth and feels great. We did a few launches, some 4 wheel burnouts, some gears changes at 7600 rpm. It passes all of our testing!!! Here is some installed pics.

http://www.ami-customs.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=watermark&id=170&catid=15&orig=1&no_html=1&Itemid=13

http://www.ami-customs.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=watermark&id=169&catid=15&orig=1&no_html=1&Itemid=13

This is the stage 1 master.

OMG thank you for the update. Finally a glimmer of hope. Please let us know as soon as its on sale, i'll take one asap. haha

*edit* actually I just checked your site and I see that its up for sale. Awesome!

OMG thank you for the update. Finally a glimmer of hope. Please let us know as soon as its on sale, i'll take one asap. haha

On sale NOW!!!! Check out the marketplace!!!!

Purchased!!! :thumbup:

is this a problem a lot of members are experiencing? and still experiencing?

stupid question here... how do i know if my master cylinder is broken? the pedal feels the same. my gears won't go in and i don't really want to take out the clutch.

if your master cyclinder is gone, your clutch pedal will drop to teh floor

The more solutions, the better. Although RalliArt MC is even more expensive.
http://www.ralliart.co.jp/10news/100201c.html

http://www.ralliart.co.jp/10news/img/100201c_01.jpg

The more solutions, the better. Although RalliArt MC is even more expensive.
http://www.ralliart.co.jp/10news/100201c.html

http://www.ralliart.co.jp/10news/img/100201c_01.jpg

Ralliart is no more. So that option is off the table.

so the second stock mc broke on me today at the worst possible time but thankfully some people helped me push it out the road. everyone that has had this problem should be making complaints to mitsu.

The more solutions, the better. Although RalliArt MC is even more expensive.
http://www.ralliart.co.jp/10news/100201c.html

http://www.ralliart.co.jp/10news/img/100201c_01.jpg


Does anyone know where these can still be found? I'm assuming these are pnp? I would pay good money to have a quality cmc. I would get the evo 9 one, but I would like to have a mechanic that's performed the install for someone prior and I can't make it to the northeast unfortunately.

Does anyone know where these can still be found? I'm assuming these are pnp? I would pay good money to have a quality cmc. I would get the evo 9 one, but I would like to have a mechanic that's performed the install for someone prior and I can't make it to the northeast unfortunately.

If you are going that route, then just get the evo 9 mc, it is much cheaper and the same basically. The bore of the ralliart is a little different, but not enough to matter with your car.

If you are going that route, then just get the evo 9 mc, it is much cheaper and the same basically. The bore of the ralliart is a little different, but not enough to matter with your car.

Thanks for your help man. Do you know of any detailed pics of the 9 install including cutting of the firewall? Maybe some sort of a diy?

Thanks for your help man. Do you know of any detailed pics of the 9 install including cutting of the firewall? Maybe some sort of a diy?

No I don't know of ANY DIY with pictures, but I have done the install myself and can help you out, you will need something to cut a hole in the firewall and either have someone fab the clutch plate for you or have access to a welder and some metal working tools. I used a dewalt saws-all with a hacksaw blade to cut the firewall, was done in like 5 minutes tops. The clutch pedal fab takes awhile however and I had to end up taking the assembly out again and moving the MC a few degrees so I could get the clutch line on, as it is right up against the brake master.

No I don't know of ANY DIY with pictures, but I have done the install myself and can help you out, you will need something to cut a hole in the firewall and either have someone fab the clutch plate for you or have access to a welder and some metal working tools. I used a dewalt saws-all with a hacksaw blade to cut the firewall, was done in like 5 minutes tops. The clutch pedal fab takes awhile however and I had to end up taking the assembly out again and moving the MC a few degrees so I could get the clutch line on, as it is right up against the brake master.


Would it change anything if I were to order the one from DG?

Would it change anything if I were to order the one from DG?

You would still need to cut the firewall if that is what you mean, I hear that DG explains how to install it over the phone if you get a setup from them. Seems like a lot to pay to have them make it IMO. But if you don't have access to that stuff then I guess you have to pay.

SSP has a new design out that should fix all the GSR master cylinder issues, including the issues with their (SSP's) old design. We installed a prototype the other week on a customers car, and the part worked very well. Based on some feedback we gave Kris, he made some minor design changes that should resolve this issue completely. The new SSP master cylinder has a fully adjustable rod, solid CNC aluminum construction, and though we did not dissasemble it to look at it, redesigned internals. There should be no issues with failure or pedal sticking with this part.

Oh, the master cylinder we removed from the car was the 3rd one to fail on this car, equipped with an Exedy twin clutch set up, that is seriously stout. The failure this time was basically the master cylinder breaking itself in half.

So from most of what I have read alot of these failures come on a car with an upgraded clutch. How is that mitsubishis fault? If the oem clutch was in place, even though it sucks, this wouldnt happen. How I see it its like adding 2x the power and blaming mitsu for building a motor that wont take it.

So from most of what I have read alot of these failures come on a car with an upgraded clutch. How is that mitsubishis fault? If the oem clutch was in place, even though it sucks, this wouldnt happen. How I see it its like adding 2x the power and blaming mitsu for building a motor that wont take it.
The master cylinders blow up on stock clutches too.

The master cylinders blow up on stock clutches too.

Tru story :wallbash:

The master cylinders blow up on stock clutches too.

Yup... add me to the list. Just happened 5 minutes ago in the parking lot at work. :mad:

Carissa

Yup... add me to the list. Just happened 5 minutes ago in the parking lot at work. :mad:

Carissa

Ouch!

Yup... add me to the list. Just happened 5 minutes ago in the parking lot at work. :mad:

Carissa
Call SSP. They should be caught up on the mastercylinders and be able to ship you one of their new ones right away.

my shit blew not long ago too

Yup... add me to the list. Just happened 5 minutes ago in the parking lot at work. :mad:

Carissa

Lovely...

Sounds like I'll have to keep a spare gas pedal AND a master cylinder on hand.

:waiting:

How many miles on your car when it blew? Do you drive in a lot of bumper to bumper traffic?

Her car has 29k on it with a stock clutch. I had to drive it home with no clutch, wich wasnt really that bad but they dont like to downshift into 3rd without the clutch let me tell ya. I think we might be buying two of the SSP v2 setups in the next couple days, this is a stupid problem to have and I am not going to keep changing these things on both our X's. I want to do a little more research and know for a fact that the SSP master is a permanent solution before we drop almost a grand on them. If SSP wants to make me a special price on two setups I wont cry *hint hint*;) My X has 30k on it and has already had one master done, the replacement one has the AMS ring but Im not very confident in that after reading this thread either.

Bryan

I've got 32,000 miles on my Evo X GSR, fully bone stock and I started noticing when I put full throttle down in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear, the clutch slips.. and after a few seconds, reengages. What is happening?!?! After doing this, I stop the car and there is a distinct electrical with a tinge of clutch burning smell! I'm not riding the clutch either! The clutch is fully up, foot off of it during this whole exercise.

The master cylinders blow up on stock clutches too.

I got a bone stock Evo X GSR with 32,000 and something is screwy with the clutch or transmission. It slips hard and then reingages after a few seconds in 3rd, 4th, and 5th under moderate acceleration. And I take extra care in never riding my clutch, so I know I didn't melt the thing, so something is up!

Lovely...

Sounds like I'll have to keep a spare gas pedal AND a master cylinder on hand.

:waiting:

How many miles on your car when it blew? Do you drive in a lot of bumper to bumper traffic?

29k miles. I drove the car in moderate traffic every day for about 9 months.

Carissa

I've got 32,000 miles on my Evo X GSR, fully bone stock and I started noticing when I put full throttle down in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear, the clutch slips.. and after a few seconds, reengages. What is happening?!?! After doing this, I stop the car and there is a distinct electrical with a tinge of clutch burning smell! I'm not riding the clutch either! The clutch is fully up, foot off of it during this whole exercise.
you sir, are about to be the owner of a brand new clutch. it's definitely on it's way out if it's slipping with you just rolling on the throttle. i'd take it easy doing that anymore because unlike the master breaking, you won't be able to just drive it home shifting with no clutch since the clutch disk will just be spinning.

I got a bone stock Evo X GSR with 32,000 and something is screwy with the clutch or transmission. It slips hard and then reingages after a few seconds in 3rd, 4th, and 5th under moderate acceleration. And I take extra care in never riding my clutch, so I know I didn't melt the thing, so something is up!
put the car is 3rd or 4th at ~2k rpms and put the gas peddle to the floor. observe both rpms and speed. if rpms spike up then fall back down and your speed does not then your clutch is going. @ 32k miles you've out lasted 90% of the other guys on here.

There is apparently also the Magnus MC. Would anyone recommend the Magnus over the SSP ?

see link
http://magnusmotorsports.com/?page_id=52&category=16&product_id=95

My master cylinder popped a few months after I put a new clutch in.

SSP had that MC shipped ASAP, and I installed it with no problems!

Thanks again SSP!

Isaac

second one broke yesterday, so i have both complete assemblies, im gonna try some type of strong glue or plastic weld to try and make the seam stronger than factory, more a seperation than a break to me. ill keep posted and let everybody know the outcome. but a ssp is def in the future, just want to make sure this product is proven w/ a pricetag of roughly 500.00$

Hello! I'm changing my CMC tonight alone. First big job. Installing the Magnus part.
What kind of oil goes in the master clutch cylinder?
Do I need to actually remove the pedal assembly ?
Any resources you have (pdf, website, video) that can help?

Thanks!

My CMC went out today, stranding my friend and my car 300+ miles away from me. I guess time to upgrade, looking to go Magnus since SSP seems to be having issues.

I'm about to order the magnus and upgrade before mine goes out. I don't want to be stranded anywhere. Just waiting for a diy to come out.

My CMC went out today, stranding my friend and my car 300+ miles away from me. I guess time to upgrade, looking to go Magnus since SSP seems to be having issues.

The V2 SSP unit does NOT have any issues. The only problems people have had was NOT using a power bleeder, and IMPROPER installation.

The V2 SSP unit does NOT have any issues. The only problems people have had was NOT using a power bleeder, and IMPROPER installation.

Jeremy ive emailed Kris but he hasnt responded. You sent me a new "race" spring to replace the V2 spring because the clutch pedal was sticking at the bottom. It worked and works fine except for in the morning when i first start my car. The clutch engagement point is like 2 inches from the floor and the second half of the pedal feels mushy. This lasts this way until i warm the car up (approximately 3-5 min). Then the engagement point is spot on about half way up the clutch path. Any ideas? IT was installed properly by a professional (for the 3rd time.....this is starting to really add up $$$) and bled using a power bleeder.

???

Mine broke 500 miles after installing a Tilton Twin Disc. Magnus MC on order!

My Magnus goes in Thursday. Gotta take a 8hr train and bus ride to get my car!

still on the stocker lol. For how long? No one knows but I do have well over 100 hard launches on it

mine broke at around 10k miles, replaced with SSP. three times now

Mine went out yesterday right before pulling out into traffic. I have an Exedy Stage 2 HD clutch with about 1100 highway miles put on it. Didn't even get to AutoX it yet. :/ I'm close to giving up on the Evo. If it's not one thing it another. -Sighs-

-Bryant-

Mine went out yesterday right before pulling out into traffic. I have an Exedy Stage 2 HD clutch with about 1100 highway miles put on it. Didn't even get to AutoX it yet. :/ I'm close to giving up on the Evo. If it's not one thing it another. -Sighs-

-Bryant-

Oh I completely feel you. My car has been down and broken more times this year than I have actually been driving it.

So, about a week ago, I took my car to Road Race Enginnering to get just a few minor things checked out, and as I gave them a call today to see if my car is ready for pickup I get a E-mail from Mike @ RRE saying my SSP MC just started bleeding.....


0.0

Woooo!! old thread revival!!

im on my second!! the OEM one is a joke!! after 25km of upgrading my clutch.......BANG!!

the CMC committed suicide.

for all u people who tink it wont happen to you...... its a bit like smoking!!!! its only a matter of time.

Well for me i swapped before the OEM blew and just didnt want to deal with being stuck and have to tow home. so i installed the magnus kit and didnt have any problems untill about 300 miles in and POP there she blew:wtfsign:. but magnus was kind enough to fix the issue and shipped me a new master cylinder turn out the first batch they used a aftermarket replica of the OEM evo 9 cmc and that didnt work . the second time around i got an orignal OEM evo 9 cmc and no problems sense. P.S im running ACT 6 puck with street light flywheel and i have about 5,00mi on this set up

My SSP CMC took a dump yesterday. The pedal wend all the way down. Then I retracted it and then the pedal would only go half way down and till that pont feels very loose. The car won't start because the clutch cannot be depressed all the way. Had to pay for towing and now gonna have to pay again for uninstall/install.
I'll take it to SSP, but what's the most reliable solution these days?

Question about the bleeding process that comes with the installation of the CMC. I have a magnus kit (w/ evo9 CMC) and I installed it about 11 months ago and about 3 months ago the clutch started to slip bad (repeated thunking noises when approaching higher RPMs) and about a month ago the clutch started to go out. What is the proper process to bleeding the brake system? I ask because I'm going to purchase another evo 9 CMC and clutch/flywheel.

I've went through every version of the ssp cmc and it's not til the V3 that it's held up, going on 6000+ miles and it's still running strong, thanks for finally making a version that lasts

I've went through every version of the ssp cmc and it's not til the V3 that it's held up, going on 6000+ miles and it's still running strong, thanks for finally making a version that lasts

I worry about this everyday. My SSP V2 has been in for a year and still working like it should but I question it daily - only based on the feeling I had when my stock on left me stranded 2 hours from home. I asked to purchase a V3 to replace my V2 and Jeremy told me that he would send me one for free....that was about a year ago, I asked about it from SSP about 5-6 times; still nothing.

I guess the good news is V2 is still strong after about 5K miles and a couple times to Nurburgring. Bad news is the multiple time SSP told me "yeah, it is on the way."

I worry about this everyday. My SSP V2 has been in for a year and still working like it should but I question it daily - only based on the feeling I had when my stock on left me stranded 2 hours from home. I asked to purchase a V3 to replace my V2 and Jeremy told me that he would send me one for free....that was about a year ago, I asked about it from SSP about 5-6 times; still nothing.

I guess the good news is V2 is still strong after about 5K miles and a couple times to Nurburgring. Bad news is the multiple time SSP told me "yeah, it is on the way."


My ssp mc2 went out after 5k miles on the dot

My ssp mc2 went out after 5k miles on the dot

Why did you have to say this???

Mine just died.

Does anyone have an OEM CMC laying around we could use for research purposes (busted or not)? We're investigating a design that eliminates the 5hours of labor involved.

Also--- pics of all failed CMCs will help.

i think Joey is still on his oem one. I may be mistaken

This may be a cool fix too. Fingers crossed. Still need to learn how the cmc works but i'll keep you guys posted.

CMC popped 4K after new clutch/flywheel install. I have been running SSP CMC V3 for 5K now with no problems.

Does anyone have an OEM CMC laying around we could use for research purposes (busted or not)? We're investigating a design that eliminates the 5hours of labor involved.

Also--- pics of all failed CMCs will help.

here is my failed stock CMC....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/425600_10150518939866906_553741905_8940515_706189982_n.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/IMG_4247.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/IMG_4245.jpg


got a replacement OEM off ebay for 40 bucks.. removal, instal, bleeding clutch, bleeding breaks, all took about 4 hours to complete... what a pain for such a small part.. I still cannot believe they made it out of plastic...

^^^^^^^^ wow that guy is an idiot!!!... live and learn i guess.... i installed the stock replacement CMC and it broke about a week later.... so now i sit waiting on the SSP CMC kit to arrive... i will instal and let you know.... so much for being a cheap ass and trying to save money...