Ok so my clutch just recently started going and I had it replace with the exedy stage 2, which is sick by the way.....bites so much harder than the pos oem...I posted a thread in regards to a leak which was occuring and it turns out that this leak is gear oil. and instead of the golden color it is a silver color. When we pulled the transmission plug with the magnet on it there was a decent amount of metal chards on the end of the bolts/plug. The mechanic had jus replaced the gear oil and and it came out in that dark silver color again....We discovered the leak was comming from a small crack on the outside of the lower transmission casing....How the F**K did this happen???? has anyone seen this or heard of this cracking yet? In the picture you can see where the oil is coming from. I am going to do a tranny flush and see if maybe the oil changing over in colors was a one time thing and some residue was left behind. If anyone has any ideas or input on this I would greatly appreciate it as it is needed. Im worried about my tranny being shot. Keep in mind the car shifts perfectly fine. Its a little notchy when it is cold but from my understanding everyones is & when the tranny warms up its good to go.

sounds like your trans got droped or jacked up there. Cant see how it could crack any other way. Can you get a better pic of the crack from under it

Na the crack is sealed and covered up....thats the thing, it didnt get jacked up there nothing has even touched it. Thats why this makes no sense at all.....If you rotate the picture 90 degrees right that is how the picture should be. It was leaking before going into the shop & I have a very good relationship with the shop so I know they didnt cause the crack. but metal chards in my gear oil thats cannot be good.

I agree, it would take a freaking idiot to jack up the car using the trans. What do you mean the crack is sealed and covered up? Like from the factory?? Is there anyway this could just be a mark in the casting? And Yes....metal shards in oil is never good...never!

No what is happening is that the PINS from the differential are coming loose and starting to wear away at the case. It will get worse as you keep driving your car.

I Buschur Racing has a fix for this... the case can still be welded shut as well.

Contact BR or SHEP transmissions.

This is a known issue on some cars?

Can you tell us what DATE your car was Manufactured On?

It is on the silver plate on the driver sides door. :)

I agree, it would take a freaking idiot to jack up the car using the trans. What do you mean the crack is sealed and covered up? Like from the factory?? Is there anyway this could just be a mark in the casting? And Yes....metal shards in oil is never good...never!

We used this stuff called quick steel to seal the small crack shown in the picture so I am no longer leaking oil. No no def wasnt just a mark in the casing you can see the oil running from it in the picture.

No what is happening is that the PINS from the differential are coming loose and starting to wear away at the case. It will get worse as you keep driving your car.

I Buschur Racing has a fix for this... the case can still be welded shut as well.

Contact BR or SHEP transmissions.

This is a known issue on some cars?

Can you tell us what DATE your car was Manufactured On?

It is on the silver plate on the driver sides door. :)

I didnt have a silver plate but on the inside there was a sticker which said manufactured in japan November 2007. Is this a big fix if it is what you saying, and what would cause the pins to loosen up any idea....If this is a known issue on some cars is there any type of recall for it cause i know my warranty is shot.

Thank You

I didnt have a silver plate but on the inside there was a sticker which said manufactured in japan November 2007. Is this a big fix if it is what you saying, and what would cause the pins to loosen up any idea....If this is a known issue on some cars is there any type of recall for it cause i know my warranty is shot.

Thank You

The issue is the PIN diameter from the factory was a tad bit too small. So it does not form a snug fit. I do not know if its in all EVO's or just certain production dates and maybe the supplier, supplied some PINs that were too small from the CNC machine.

So what happens all the centrifugal forces pull the pins out ontop of being in a oil environment. The fix that BR has produced stronger and a tad bit larger pins that replace the stock ones.

Read more here:

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-engine-turbo-drivetrain/431163-evo-x-5-speed-failures-solutions.html

Thanks alot for the link, alot of good info in there and by the sounds of it, this is the problem im experiencing. I hope my local shop can do it b/c BR is in ohio and I just spent 2000K on clutch install and id like to try and avoid shipping my car or trans to them cause that will not be cheap. I know there work is stood by very strongly which is why I would like to use them...may have to just man up and eat the couple extra hundred just wish mitsu would of made this with a little more quality behind it. I know im modded and the diff is under alot more pressure with 140+ added whp just sucks.

The issue is the PIN diameter from the factory was a tad bit too small. So it does not form a snug fit. I do not know if its in all EVO's or just certain production dates and maybe the supplier, supplied some PINs that were too small from the CNC machine.

So what happens all the centrifugal forces pull the pins out ontop of being in a oil environment. The fix that BR has produced stronger and a tad bit larger pins that replace the stock ones.

Read more here:

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-engine-turbo-drivetrain/431163-evo-x-5-speed-failures-solutions.html

So if the pin issue is something mitsu may have messed up on shouldnt there be a recall? Or will they say well the car stock hasnt had these problems and has been holding up? anyone not modded experience this issue? maybe this could open up mitsu's eyes and have them jump on this problem?

So if the pin issue is something mitsu may have messed up on shouldnt there be a recall? Or will they say well the car stock hasnt had these problems and has been holding up? anyone not modded experience this issue? maybe this could open up mitsu's eyes and have them jump on this problem?

As far as I know... people had these fail on stock cars if your read the thread I posted. IIRC Mitsu knows, but will try to blame it on MODS or launching the car. It truly is a warranty you can't ever use... ;)

Whenever... I need a new clutch... I am just dropping off the car at BR to have it done as well as the pins replaced by Dan. Luckily for me they are only 30min away.

As far as I know... people had these fail on stock cars if your read the thread I posted. IIRC Mitsu knows, but will try to blame it on MODS or launching the car. It truly is a warranty you can't ever use... ;)

Whenever... I need a new clutch... I am just dropping off the car at BR to have it done as well as the pins replaced by Dan. Luckily for me they are only 30min away.

Lol bastard there a solid 10-12 hours from me lol, maybe you can come pick my car up lend me yours for the week lol :)...I know how helpful and friendly the evo community can be, make this statement even more true & let me borrow your evo LOLOL

Either way you can order a pin kit from BR. Nothing else than pulling the tranny, and replacing pins in the center diff. Then welding the hole back up. No need for a new case. IIRC a new case is like $500 from the dealer.

True... I'm ordering pins shortly along with the new product by ssp and Ami mAster cylinder to go with my exedy stage 2... Should just Bout cover all the problems.

this sux arse!!!

There should be a list of preventative measures to be done before modding. Just about everytime i want to start adding mods, i hear of a new evo issue.

haha dude ya dont know the half of it....Ive have such little bs problems along my path of modding and its super frusterating and drains the pocket but if your like me in the end its all worth it, although im starting to question that lol!

Mine was replaced under warrenty with mods. Get it towed to mitsu, whats the worst that can happen?

haha dude ya dont know the half of it....Ive have such little bs problems along my path of modding and its super frusterating and drains the pocket but if your like me in the end its all worth it, although im starting to question that lol!

Dude, but i can't help it. i know it'll be alot frustration and $ but i can't help checking the forums every 10mins and thinking of what i'm gonna get first for first mod. there is a reason why you will rarely see an evo stock for long. its an addiction.

any idea what you are going to do about the tranny case or pinions? looking forward to seeing you at the meets.

Good luck

The pins are the right size; it is caused by launching plain and simple.

Planetary gears don't like all that happens during a Launch, the 'shock' these pins get is quite a workout and this is where the pins that secure the shaft to the housing snap, shooting the gear shaft into the housing which will either punch a whole or crack the casing. Why? It's just the nature of the gear set and the physics of it all, while they all turn nicely there is quite a bit of load or 'screwing' action forcing the thing backwards. This explains everything that has happened to date with this car; it's in keeping true with where the crack is positioned on the gearbox too. It's something that has been seen scores of times before with previous Evo's with manual, hydraulic pull type gearboxes and the problem is always caused by launching.

It's funny as your car will still drive (for a little while at least) but it won't be AWD that's for sure and it will go bang if it's this far gone and in a short time too. From a Motorsport perspective you can limit this with getting the right preload in it and putting the best shims in place for the tolerances that exists. That and using the right fluids go a long way into helping the Centre Diff, couple it up with some Ralliart super traction diff's and you'll never have the problem even if you do launch the thing.

McCoy, if we had +rep, that post would definitely be worthy.

The pins are the right size; it is caused by launching plain and simple.

Planetary gears don't like all that happens during a Launch, the 'shock' these pins get is quite a workout and this is where the pins that secure the shaft to the housing snap, shooting the gear shaft into the housing which will either punch a whole or crack the casing. Why? It's just the nature of the gear set and the physics of it all, while they all turn nicely there is quite a bit of load or 'screwing' action forcing the thing backwards. This explains everything that has happened to date with this car; it's in keeping true with where the crack is positioned on the gearbox too. It's something that has been seen scores of times before with previous Evo's with manual, hydraulic pull type gearboxes and the problem is always caused by launching.

It's funny as your car will still drive (for a little while at least) but it won't be AWD that's for sure and it will go bang if it's this far gone and in a short time too. From a Motorsport perspective you can limit this with getting the right preload in it and putting the best shims in place for the tolerances that exists. That and using the right fluids go a long way into helping the Centre Diff, couple it up with some Ralliart super traction diff's and you'll never have the problem even if you do launch the thing.


Thats the thing I have never been to the track & have only launched the car 1 time over the previous 6 months.

Maybe its from launching with 375WHP instead of the stock 245WHP? That's a big difference in stress.

ya but i only launched it once. im sorry but after one launch it shouldnt be experiencing this. Atleast in my personal opinion its shouldnt have that much of an effect after 1 launch. maybe if im driving like a douche doing 20 + launches.

I really don't think launching has anything to do with it (although I heard many times people trying to blame it on launching).
The pins break because the shafts get stuck inside the planetary gears, preventing them from rotating. If you lauch the car, there's nothing that will cause that to happen. The diff is not loaded as the wheelspin is moderate and most likely even between the left and right wheels.
What may have cause this is excessive load on the diff. Mine gone after some aggressive driving on snow with a lot of sliding and drifting. And I also didn't launch my car that hard.

I really don't think launching has anything to do with it (although I heard many times people trying to blame it on launching).
The pins break because the shafts get stuck inside the planetary gears, preventing them from rotating. If you lauch the car, there's nothing that will cause that to happen. The diff is not loaded as the wheelspin is moderate and most likely even between the left and right wheels.
What may have cause this is excessive load on the diff. Mine gone after some aggressive driving on snow with a lot of sliding and drifting. And I also didn't launch my car that hard.

So mitsu sucks and they need to recall this shit haha....cause im not a hard agressive driver at all, i mean dont get me wrong ive gone wot but not often and i dont launch the car. one time i launched it. Thanks for the link on the other thread too btw, if you know any other instances please let me know im going to try and build a case and show mitsu how often this problem is occuring & hopefully get some type of positive response to help us out.

There are already two cases of this problem if you read through the whole thread which that link points to.

How many miles do you have on your car?

Carissa

There are already two cases of this problem if you read through the whole thread which that link points to.

Yes I did and I have them printed up, appreciate it very much so. I just hope I can get together enough instances to have some sort of case here where they would atleast consider it.

How many miles do you have on your car?

Carissa

I believe around 28,000 or so.

suks bro, you dont even drive the car hard. Try to get it under warranty at 112 mitsubishi. but you got a shit load of bolt-ons

I'm slowly inclining away from mitsu because of their crappy car that sucks when its stock. You have to really mod a lot to make this a true performance car. My next car is a Porsche and I don't care if I have to sell my left nut for a 911 turbo.

Mine is making a horrible whining noise in 3-4-5 it sounds like I'm going in reverse when I'm going forward. I only have basic bolt ons, Perrin inlet hose and turbo back exhaust.

I went to Pickering Mitsubishi and they said "you have turbo back, that's where the noise is from" lol. Fail. So anywhoo nothing got done about it,