I just put a deposit down for an Evo X with South Coast Mitsu(btw, Sam is awesome.) Going with a white gsr w/sss and the white powder coat wheels. I'm from nor cal and will be flying down this Sat. to pick it and drive it home. Before I go, I just have a couple of questions that hopefully you guys can answer since this is the first new car I'm going to purchase.

1) During the break in period, is there anything I need to consider(ie not going over a certain speed, rpm etc?)

2) When should I go in for the first oil change/maintenance?

3) What octane fuel should I put in it?

That's all I can think of for now but I'm sure other questions will pop up between now and Sat. Thanks in advance and I will try to get some pics posted when I get it.

Edit #1...I took the evo up to Grizzly Peak to snap some photos. It was more hazy that I expected but it's the SF Bay Area in the background. Oh and the car handled the twisty uphill road up there like a champ.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wliu0912/EvoX

1) just take her easy in the first 1000 miles. No heavy Wide Open Throttle runs,

2) 1st Oil change should be 3000 miles, but I would do it after the break-in (at 1000)

3) highest octane you can find... 91 for us lucky Californians.

I just put a deposit down for an Evo X with South Coast Mitsu(btw, Sam is awesome.) Going with a white gsr w/sss and the white powder coat wheels. I'm from nor cal and will be flying down this Sat. to pick it and drive it home. Before I go, I just have a couple of questions that hopefully you guys can answer since this is the first new car I'm going to purchase.

1) During the break in period, is there anything I need to consider(ie not going over a certain speed, rpm etc?)

Yes. Avoid highways if possible. You want to vary your engine speed and load as much as possible during break in. Sitting at a constant RPM and load on a highway is not a good way to break in the motor.

Also, I think the manual says to keep it below 5000rpm. I wouldn't go past half throttle or so either until you get some miles on it.

2) When should I go in for the first oil change/maintenance?

Personally, I'll be changing my oil as soon as I get it home. I'd like to get the initial wear metals out of the engine ASAP.

3) What octane fuel should I put in it?

91 or better. We have 93 out here, so I'll be running that.

That's all I can think of for now but I'm sure other questions will pop up between now and Sat. Thanks in advance and I will try to get some pics posted when I get it.

Awesome. Congrats!

There are no additives in the oil? I know at Honda where I work the 1st oil change is longer due to additives for initial break in

2) Change oil at 500. Id use Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic

3) 93 octane

Personally, I'll be changing my oil as soon as I get it home. I'd like to get the initial wear metals out of the engine ASAP.
Wear Metals can u explain a lil on this??
here in jersey we got 93 but as u know you can get 100+ octane how much octane is too much??

If your engine does not experience pre-ignition problems (knock) at a given octane then anything more than that is a waste of money. What can you do with higher octane fuel? Mod your engine to obtain higher boost pressure! Or adjust your A/F ratios differently. But if you run your Evo X stock I think anything higher than 93 is probably unnecessary.

I am currently running 92 octane in a stock Legacy GT with 2.5 l turbo boxer engine with 243 hp and 241 tq. I can take advantage of different A/F maps with different octane levels by using a computer to flash my ECU. I may decide to use 94 in the future when I run a tune on the engine using Cobb's Accessport. Likewise, you have these options open to you with the Evo X engine when aftermarket tuning becomes available, either as a piggy-back chip or ECU flash. They will often ask what octane fuel you are using and adjust for it. If you do this then you can take advantage of higher octane fuels.

Edit, in addition to A/F ratios the ECU maps can be adjusted for timing, which I believe is also affected somewhat by octane, in that if you use too low an octane you will experience ignition prior to the spark going off, and when the spark goes off is part of the timing. Excuse me as I blunder through this along with you! :)

Wear Metals can u explain a lil on this??

During the manufacturing process engine parts are cast, forged, machined, honed, polished, etc. There is a slight possibility that some small discrete particles of metal are left in the engine after being fully assembled and tested. However, mostly the metal wear and particles comes from the smoothing out of surface roughness in the cylinders and pistons and valves. The tiny particles of metal, iron and aluminum, are then carried by the oil to the bottom of the engine and into the oil filter (hopefully). However, if left in the oil for too long they could slop around and be reintroduced into the engine causing additional wear, such as scratches on the cylinder walls, that may result in reduced power forever more in your engine. So wear is necessary and good, but then you need to get rid of the wear particles by changing your oil sooner than later.

During the manufacturing process engine parts are cast, forged, machined, honed, polished, etc. There is a slight possibility that some small discrete particles of metal are left in the engine after being fully assembled and tested. However, mostly the metal wear and particles comes from the smoothing out of surface roughness in the cylinders and pistons and valves. The tiny particles of metal, iron and aluminum, are then carried by the oil to the bottom of the engine and into the oil filter (hopefully). However, if left in the oil for too long they could slop around and be reintroduced into the engine causing additional wear, such as scratches on the cylinder walls, that may result in reduced power forever more in your engine. So wear is necessary and good, but then you need to get rid of the wear particles by changing your oil sooner than later. thanks for the explanation. if thats the case i think iamma change my asap

team. Just curious arent dealers around your way offering servicing options for you under the new car warrentee?

I got two questions myself. First, let me tell you I truelly don't know anything about mechanics AT ALL but, I recently became very interested and I am buying the X MR as soon as it comes out in Miami.

First question, what exactly is "octane fuel" and how do I know the number of it?

Second question, if you guys with X change your oil yourself, please, if you can take the time, I would really appreciate it if you can give me a photo/word guide as to how it should be done and what oil is best.

Thanks,
Manny

I got the evo today and man was it fun driving back home. Anyhoo, I will post some pics tomorrow after I get all the bug splatters out of the front and windshield.

Congrats!! :thumbup:

:rock:

"Octane Fuel" Is just the phrase that follows the number rating in the system...When you go to your gas station the three large black number directly below or above each selection of gas tells you the octane rating...

For some its 87 89 91
87 being the cheap stuff
91 being the premium stuff

2. The motor oil that comes with the car is Mobile 1 5W-30

I dont have an Evo X yet so when someone who has one or when I get one I'll post a walk through oil change with photos.

I got the evo today and man was it fun driving back home. Anyhoo, I will post some pics tomorrow after I get all the bug splatters out of the front and windshield.
:+1:
Congratz I just got mine late yesterday.

Thanks everyone, updated first post with link to the pics. Or here you go.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wliu0912/EvoX

^ Great pics. Nice setting too.

Wear Metals can u explain a lil on this??

When you first break in an engine, you're going to have a lot of debris (relatively speaking) from the engine parts wearing into each other. Basically you have foreign surfaces mating up to each other and "wearing each other down" to some extent (like your piston rings to the cylinder walls).

here in jersey we got 93 but as u know you can get 100+ octane how much octane is too much??


93 is more than enough. 100 octane is only good if you're tuned for 100 octane. It won't make your car faster if it's only tuned for 91.

Second question, if you guys with X change your oil yourself, please, if you can take the time, I would really appreciate it if you can give me a photo/word guide as to how it should be done and what oil is best.

If no one does it by the time I get my car, I'll make a how-to on changing your oil.

I got the evo today and man was it fun driving back home. Anyhoo, I will post some pics tomorrow after I get all the bug splatters out of the front and windshield.

Awesome! I'm jealous, man!

Thanks everyone, updated first post with link to the pics. Or here you go.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wliu0912/EvoX

Baller.

<3

Thanks everyone, updated first post with link to the pics. Or here you go.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wliu0912/EvoX

Schweet pics man!!!! :thumbup:


If no one does it by the time I get my car, I'll make a how-to on changing your oil.

Right on dino......thx! :thumbup:

Hotness!

oh thats a sweet looking ride. Good backdrop for pics too!

"Octane Fuel" Is just the phrase that follows the number rating in the system...When you go to your gas station the three large black number directly below or above each selection of gas tells you the octane rating...

For some its 87 89 91
87 being the cheap stuff
91 being the premium stuff

2. The motor oil that comes with the car is Mobile 1 5W-30

I dont have an Evo X yet so when someone who has one or when I get one I'll post a walk through oil change with photos.

Thanks.