Hey Guys,

yesterday we were on a MAHA LPS300 Dyno (very accurate Dyno with braked rolls to simulate the street).

I know we measure in Germany on another way than in USA. We measure the DIN Norm OEM Manufactory guidelines and not WHP.

It was very interesting to see the difference betwwen two EVO X MR SST on the same dyno, with the same weather on the same day.

The film line was Stock and the tubbier line was with JIC Magic Twin Catback and K&N Filter in the OEM Airbox.

The final HP result was less than the Original but it seems a interference on the last 100rpm befor the limiter. I think this doesn't was correct.

A catback doesn't get more horsepower overall but it does more torque and more hp in the midrange where the power is needed on the street.

We did driving tests also and I was always a little bit faster than stock but not much.

You see... a catback is only very powerful with other goodies and mods and of course the most difference will be with mapping.

Next time we did mapping stock vs mapping catback :)

Cheers

Peter

no idea what it means.. but good job.

Maybe the upgrades aren't very effective at reducing backpressure somehow? I would imagine that tuning both to the same AFR, boost, and timing standards would be more accurate for comparing results of just the parts but something seems odd with this upgrade LOL.

stupid metric system, just kidding. it is very cool to see a plot in Nm. i will probably do a one mod at a time dyno and acceleration logs this spring. anyone that finds fault with the dyno can plot the acceleration in excel to calculate hp to their liking. first mod, cobb ap with stock map and second a catback. it should be interesting.

stupid metric system, just kidding. it is very cool to see a plot in Nm. i will probably do a one mod at a time dyno and acceleration logs this spring. anyone that finds fault with the dyno can plot the acceleration in excel to calculate hp to their liking. first mod, cobb ap with stock map and second a catback. it should be interesting.

Standard Euro Spec ..366 NM and 300ps engine .. so they are very close to OEM spec ..

The maha dyno also shows parasitic loss .. 87ps .. which gives you a 209-210ps at the wheels .. again similiar to what USDM guys are getting ..

The ECU is regulating the power output ..that is why its so consistent to OEM specs..

That's an interesting point about the ECU regulating power output. So if you have 20 F, high pressure day it will reach the target loads set in the ECU controlled boost earlier and likely run less boost compared to days where it is 90 F and low pressure. I guess that works fine if you are tuned in hot weather, but tune in cold weather for a "safe" 27 psi and suddenly it might try and force the car to run more boost like 29 psi in an attempt to reach the target loads for boost control. Just something to think about when everyone seems to say ECU controlled boost is so much safer when it really depends on what weather you tuned the car for.

That's an interesting point about the ECU regulating power output. So if you have 20 F, high pressure day it will reach the target loads set in the ECU controlled boost earlier and likely run less boost compared to days where it is 90 F and low pressure. I guess that works fine if you are tuned in hot weather, but tune in cold weather for a "safe" 27 psi and suddenly it might try and force the car to run more boost like 29 psi in an attempt to reach the target loads for boost control. Just something to think about when everyone seems to say ECU controlled boost is so much safer when it really depends on what weather you tuned the car for.

temperature corrected :thumbup:

Set the power .. an it corrects for baro and temperature ;)

Misunderstanding is adjustment for load .. like boost ..
Loopback control starts only at the 1st instance of boost ..
so on cold weather .. your 1st wot run will overboost . after that it corrects tself