Items to Bring Day of:
Water
Snacks
Extra Gas
Pen and Notepad
Camera
Lawn Chair
Sunscreen
Tire Chalk
Tire Pressure Guage
Extra fluids - Engine and Brake oil

Mods:
Oil Catch Cans
Extra cooling for SST
Fuel Surge Tank

Equipment:
Helmet SA2005 rated- Rent at location
Driving gloves
Small tool box - torque wrench, rags

Maintanence:
Change Engine Oil
Change Brake Fluid

Tips:
Try tarmac and gravel mode
1 Click off ASC
Keep gas tank atleast half full - Top off after each session
Tires at 31-34 psi
Cool down lap at end of the day - Let car idle for a good 10 minutes after


I want to get a list of just about everything everyone can think of that is needed or just good to have/do for the track. I personally have never been to the track but plan to go during the summer and, depending how it goes, make it a regular thing. Since we still have a few months before the weather gets warmer I want to make sure I am prepared and if there are any mods that would be helpful I have time to get them done. Post up any info at all and I'll update this first post so we have a quick and easy checklist. Links to forums discussing specific items or to approved vendor products is welcome.

Nice thread idea for people going out their first time,

Also might not be a bad idea for someone to chime in for a normal 'what to expect' at a track day

I recommend NOT running in Gravel mode. I feel that Tarmac is the best.

When starting, run with 1 click off on the ASC button.

Bring a chair and sunscreen. A tank of air or compressor is good. Shop rags are handy. Torque wrench to torque and retorque lugnuts.

Might be a good idea to bring tire chalk to draw lines on your sidewall to make sure you are running proper tire pressure.

Did this at first autox and it helped me dial in my pressure pretty well.

Last summer this older gentleman with an MR was talking about how he tracks his car atleast once a month and found gravel worked best for him. I would guess tarmac works at first when the tires are cool but when everything starts getting hot and more slippery gravel might work better. I'm not speaking from experience so I can be totally off on this.

JDCZEvo - Explain tire chalk. I never heard that before.

Any recommended tire pressure on a stock setup? 32-35psi?

Nice have fun buddy! Looks to me like your ready... Dont forget your wallet!

Any recommended tire pressure on a stock setup? 32-35psi?


Depends on your weather and tires. For seattle weather, I use 34 for cold weather, 31-32 for hot weather. so observe how fast your tire warm up and which psi is the best on that particular track.

I also suggest to bring a Jack stand and a bottle of engine oil.

this might be obvious, but as a reminder for beginners:

Must do a cool down lap to let rotor cool down, otherwise it will be bended easily.

No hand brakes after out of the track.

also after a session dont do what i did for 95% of last year. let the engine run for a few minutes for the oil to cool the turbo.

You have too run with a full tank of fuel. For the track. If you don't do that. It would slow down. Because the the fuel.

import2race.com

Don't know if I would risk renting a helmet at the track - you need one that is high quality, has not been bashed around, and fits perfectly. Your brain is worth investing a few hundred bucks to protect!

You have too run with a full tank of fuel. For the track. If you don't do that. It would slow down. Because the the fuel.

Actually it won't slow down.... if you make hard left turns with low (in my case 7/8th's of a tank, great tank design Mitsu) fuel then you get fuel starvation... which is akin to dropping a grenade in your motor if you do it enough. It's REALLY dangerous. Now the fuel starvation feels like you're slowing down (you are because the engine is losing power because there's no fuel in the fuel rail)... but it's not just a simple slow down thing.

Don't know if I would risk renting a helmet at the track - you need one that is high quality, has not been bashed around, and fits perfectly. Your brain is worth investing a few hundred bucks to protect!

I recommend renting a helmet your first time out. If you are unsure if you're going to do this a lot, then rent. If you then figure that you like it and you'll do it a lot, get an SA2005 rated helmet of your own.



Expect 5-7 mpg while on the track. You might get 10 if you're driving slow. Figure out how long the track is and how long the sessions are with an average lap time to guess how much fuel you're going to need.

I get like 4mpg on E85. 20 minute sessions, 2.5 mile track, 2minute average lap time once warm up lap is done (4 minutes) with a 4 minute cool down period. So 20-4 = 16 minutes of hard driving, so 8 laps. + warm up and cool down for 10 laps total, 25 miles@4mpg = I'm going to use 7-8 gallons. In reality I'm using around 6-7 gallons per session, so the cool down and warm up laps are likely much higher mpg.

Plan accordingly.

Thanks for all the info.
So whats a permanent fix for this fuel starvation issue when making hard turns? New fuel tank, pump, injectors, lines etc..
I guess another tip will to be to top off the tank after each session.

I agree with the helmets. For the first event just rent one. I'm sure they are like shoes. I'm anywhere between a size 10 and 13 depending on type and brand of shoe. Better to go without one first and try a bunch on at the track. Find out exactly what size fits you then go online and order one.

i've never had fuel starvation issues. sounds like too many mods and trying to push too much power for the stock fuel system to handle. more power isn't really necessary for road racing. learning to be fast in a stock car is better than having an extra 25hp from your lets mods.

who says I have the stock fuel system?

I went to the track when my car had just barely 1000 miles and it was completely stock and had fuel starvation (I think I was one of the first, if not the first person to report it on EvoM).

The fuel tank design picks up on the left and if you make a left hand turn the fuel goes into the right tank (under the right rear seat), causing starvation.

The solution is a surge tank, $400-1000+

where i go is mostly left-handers. its not like a drive like a grandma on the track or anything. maybe if those left-handers were longer i'd have problems, i dont know.

Helmet concern:
rent a helmet at the tack school is fine since everybody is driving less aggressive.

The concern is you never know if that helmet is dropped in the past. Helmet will be useless after it's first drop. Coz the shock absorb mechanic is only design to protect u for the first hit.

Fuel:
this is not a concern for beginner or first track day.

But sharp turn with slope (incline/ decline) would cause the problem, like Pacific raceway 3ab, it happened to me with my old mr2. Regular flat turn should not be problem.

Bradze: coming march 28th Pacific raceway, you in?

ah, makes perfect sense, where i usually go has no elevation changes or anything. id love to go to pacific but i don't have recent schooling and with my recent move/wife wanting new everything and a baby coming soon money's pretty tight. bremerton lapping days are probably gonna be the only lapping for me for a while and maybe some pacific grand prix.....

from my experience:

if you run more than half a tank of fuel should not have a prob with fuel starvation

when lowering tiring pressure need to be aware of the strength of your tire wall. when i lowered my advan sport down to 32psi they started wearing on the shoulder so needed to use higher pressure vs my advan ad08 has no problem with uneven wear even lower than 32 psi

first time i took my evo x on the track i boiled the brake fluid and had no brakes (quite scary). steel braided brake lines and brake shims will help save your brakes. not expensive and worth it if you are going to track

watch your temps especially oil. my be worthwhile thinking of changing the thermostat - also a cheap mod.

if you drive sst then tranny cooling mod needed to drive in super sport auto mode otherwise will get slow down mode. sport mode no problem.

traction control half off is safe and will aid in improving timing

be safe. no point being a hero an overtaking in a corner and dont change your line to let the faster driver pass you - he will know how to overtake you - stay predictable.

i've never had fuel starvation issues. sounds like too many mods and trying to push too much power for the stock fuel system to handle. more power isn't really necessary for road racing. learning to be fast in a stock car is better than having an extra 25hp from your lets mods.

That is incorrect. Fuel starvation isn't a function of power; it's an issue of fuel sloshing off the pick-up, causing the car to run lean, and it happens on hard left-handers, especially if you run with less than half a tank.

I thought it was bunk until it happened to me and I nearly crapped my pants.

No E-Brake after your session is over.

Is there actually a need for the E-brake on a road course?

Is there actually a need for the E-brake on a road course?

I believe he means in the paddock where the rear pad being held on your hot rotor can cause warping.

That is incorrect. Fuel starvation isn't a function of power; it's an issue of fuel sloshing off the pick-up, causing the car to run lean, and it happens on hard left-handers, especially if you run with less than half a tank. I thought it was bunk until it happened to me and I nearly crapped my pants.

Worst part is that when this occurs your engine leans out (at full noise) severely, and you get whats known as high speed detonation, do this a dozen times or so and you can really do some engine damage! :confused2:

Thats why we made our WR35STX surge tank assembly for the fuel system of these cars. Once more no on believed they would fuel surge so badly through left handers....I experienced it first hand!

What mode should I run? Sport or S-Sport?
Thanks!!

What mode should I run? Sport or S-Sport?
Thanks!!

Depends if you manual shift or leave it in Auto. If you're in manual mode it really makes very little difference. If you Auto shift then put it in S-Sport - it will shift at higher revs and keep it in the power band better.

Just ran a few laps on Sport but shifting manually. And yes it didnt make a difference.. I got 2 check break lights but i believe its because by pads are bad.. Any input?

Just ran a few laps on Sport but shifting manually. And yes it didnt make a difference.. I got 2 check break lights but i believe its because by pads are bad.. Any input?

Do you mean the brake symbol with the exclamation point and the word "Check" flashing up? I get that when driving hard on the track - it's just the brake fluid sloshing around in the reservoir. If the warning sign goes away after a second or two you're fine. If the warning stays on, however, then you need to do something about it!

Do you mean the brake symbol with the exclamation point and the word "Check" flashing up? I get that when driving hard on the track - it's just the brake fluid sloshing around in the reservoir. If the warning sign goes away after a second or two you're fine. If the warning stays on, however, then you need to do something about it!

That is exactly what is happening! So i shouldnt worry about? Good!
I ran slower on the second run because i was worried it could burn my rotors or something.
Thanks!!

I ran slower on the second run because i was worried it could burn my rotors or something.
Thanks!!

Like this?
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/images/2010_autocross/07_24-07_25_kansas_city_midiv/img_6236.jpg

hahah yes.. nothing happened really.. besides the freaking SST getting hot.. i had fun though..

That is exactly what is happening! So i shouldnt worry about? Good!
I ran slower on the second run because i was worried it could burn my rotors or something.
Thanks!!

You should worry about it -- the light is coming on because your fluid is low. Did you do a full fluid flush before the track? I did not, and had that happen when the car was 12mths old. I did not flush but fully filled for another weekend at the ~18mth mark on my baby. No brake lights at all, and I drove it a LOT harder.

The light I thought was unfun was the "ASC" thing that some of us get because of the torque too-high reading. All I have is a TBE, but its got enough guts now that I have thrown that swervy line ASC skid control thing off three times, twice in one weekend at the track. Nerve racking, brake lights, ASC breaking, one limp mode (probably the MAF overboost, didn't have a OBDII so I just disconnected the battery and went to lunch).

Oh well. "Learning experience"