First, I want to thank David and MDR Performance in Kemah, TX for coming up and giving me a hand with this. We were going to do it at the MDR shop, but they had a customer's car they had a schedule to make. He drove from Kemah to Spring, wich is over an hour, to help me with this all nighter. He stayed literally until the trans was out and back togther, then took a nap at the house before he went back to the shop to work. He came up the following day again after closing the shop and helped with re-assembly.

The install went without a hitch. SSP's documentation on the install is very good. For that reason, I am going to not eve bother with all the specific details of the actual clutch install, but rather just touch on things that I think would be helpful to a person or shop doing this job. High res pic's don't hurt either.On to the good stuff....

Notice that the rack is not on the cross member. Leave the rack in the car, and drop the cross member complete. You won't even have to pull the wheel hubs like I did. Mitsu's service manual is on crack for this job. The cross member HAS TO COME OUT if you leave the engine in the car.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3240127.jpg

Here is a picture of the larger of the two basket end seals from SSP, on a SALAD PLATE.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3240129.jpg

Here is the smaller one. These seals are mated pairs, and they sit inside each other on each end of the clutch basket.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3240130.jpg

Here is a picture of the trans hanging from the engine hoist. An engine hoist is the way to go for this job. There is a lifting boss on top of the trans that actually is pretty close to the center of gravity. It makes stabbing the trans pretty easy.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3260138.jpg

Here is a picture of the rack still in the car after removal. We removed the transfer case rather than just tie it up. I wanted it totally out of the way for some other things I had to do. There are no real issues with bleeding the ACD, contrary to what the Mitsu manual tells you. A 15 dollar hadn brake bleeder works just fine. Just watch the level when you run the car after refill to make sue it doesn't get to low. I used Synthetic ATF +4 as the fluid.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3260140.jpg

Here is a picture of the tranmission installed without the cross member or transfer case. This was actuall taken going back together. Note the liberal coating of moly lube on the splines. This is NOT optional. You can use ARP assembly lube as well. The 'B-nut' is the feed for the dc pump that feeds the SSP trans cooler on the car.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3260147.jpg

I see you wrapped allot of parts. Your making me nervous I'm going to catch fire. When you had it running did you have issues with anything?

PS: Somebody stole your toe :-P

Here is a picture of the clutch cover that goes on the engine side of the clutch basket. It is sitting on the front brake disc, and is turned so that you are looking at the inside of this. This piece needs to be treated like it made of crystal. You can't buy another one, and it is not exatly stout. It pops out pretty easily. Make sure you don't drop it.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3250134.jpg

Here is how the above piece looks installed.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3240128.jpg

This is the spanner nut that you must remove. The istruction say to use a screw driver. I would use a brass or some other soft metal drift, but it is not tight, so it probably doesn't matter. I'm just anal like that.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3250133.jpg

This is a picture of the clutch basket with the seals installed. The snap ring that holds this together is a real joy to remove and install. It is stout as hell.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3250131.jpg

Here is a picture of the trans with the basket out. Note how clean it is. I did a full flush at 8k miles. The stock trans fluid was brown. The fluid that came out when I drained for the clutch pack went back in. It was so clean I was amazed. I would call it sanitary. I don't even run a filter in the stock housing, and it was still spotless. I do run the SSP inline filter, but I have it installed on the pressure side of my cooler pump, so it doesn't get used all the time.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3250132.jpg

I see you wrapped allot of parts. Your making me nervous I'm going to catch fire. When you had it running did you have issues with anything?

That is part of the reason I pulled the entire kit out for the trans install. To wrap. The heat the header was putting literally millimeters from some components was staggering, even after ceramic coating. I'll post some of those pics on my build thread. I also didn't like the fact that the downpipe was so close to the rack. I didn't have any issues, but was concerned I would. I do not want any non engine/drive train related components having pre-mature failure issues due to heat from my turbo and header. Even the pump module in the corner of the fire wall was hot.

PS: Somebody stole your toe :-P
Damn... Who the hell? It was Kris. He took my toe. Traded it to him for a set of trans seals. I am just wishing the flywheel was done. I'm not pulling the trans out again until I either break something or the clutches wear out.

I will post some video of the car shifting later. I'm tired and going to bed. The car currently shifts in sport mode like it did in S-sport before. Very very tight shifts. As soon as the tcu re learns s-sport, I'm going to do some logs and tuning.

That is part of the reason I pulled the entire kit out for the trans install. To wrap. The heat the header was putting literally millimeters from some components was staggering, even after ceramic coating. I'll post some of those pics on my build thread. I also didn't like the fact that the downpipe was so close to the rack. I didn't have any issues, but was concerned I would. I do not want any non engine/drive train related components having pre-mature failure issues due to heat from my turbo and header. Even the pump module in the corner of the fire wall was hot.


Damn... Who the hell? It was Kris. He took my toe. Traded it to him for a set of trans seals. I am just wishing the flywheel was done. I'm not pulling the trans out again until I either break something or the clutches wear out.

I'm wrapping my DP when I get the car back, that's for sure. What are your thoughts on a turbo blanket.

:wtfsign: Now that's just plain messed up. I had to give him my left pointer finger for the 500 clutches.....what the hell is he building?

I'm wrapping my DP when I get the car back, that's for sure. What are your thoughts on a turbo blanket.
DEI p/n 010140 is what I put on mine. I also deformed the factory heat shield and installed it as well. I can actually do the install of that heat shield with the intake and kit installed....but it SUCKS. Definately worth it. A big loop of safety wire will hold it on for ever.
:wtfsign: Now that's just plain messed up. I had to give him my left pointer finger for the 500 clutches.....what the hell is he building?
I don't know, but whatever it is, I bet its ugly.

Those turbo blankets can be made to fit a stock-sized turbo as well. I put one on my BBX and hope it helps out. It looks nice, for sure.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn179/kozmic27/SST%20clutch%20pack%20install/P3250132.jpg

I see you have that awful awful unfinished casting in yours too, bottom left corner, that made so upset when I saw that in mine :\

I see you have that awful awful unfinished casting in yours too, bottom left corner, that made so upset when I saw that in mine :

Yep. I am sure they did it for oiling, and just didn't bother to clean it up. Pretty lame.

Me too. i was hoping mine was different, but they are all the same.

Yep. I am sure they did it for oiling, and just didn't bother to clean it up. Pretty lame.

yeah I'm sure it was suppose to be there, it's the no clean up part that bugged me :\

nice thread how much time did it take you guys to change the clutches and have the car runing again?
also where your stock clutches worn out? is this why you changed them?
what mileage do you have?
thanks and what a great writeup thumbs up!!

nice thread how much time did it take you guys to change the clutches and have the car runing again?
also where your stock clutches worn out? is this why you changed them?
what mileage do you have?
thanks and what a great writeup thumbs up!!
We removed the turbo kit from the car at the same time, so it took a bit longer. The time on the entire clutch job not counting the turbo and manifold removal was about 16 hours.

The stock clutches look like they were new, no signs of wear whatsoever. However I flushed the trans at 8k miles and filled it with after market fluid. The car has 17k miles on it.

WELL IT DOESNT GET ANY BETTER THAN THAT NICE JOB!:dancebanana: