I decided to put a little something together to help out with pre-installation of the SSP master cylinder. I figured this would be a great place to post up any concerns or issues you may be having, most vendors won't do this and since we did all the prelim testing on the product we have the most exposure to how it functions and operates. Post up comments or questions!!!!

Here is the video below, it is a bit long but clears up some pre-assembly and installation issues that I have heard and seen.

The video is broken up into two parts.

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_Nes3wva5k

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsXPwXEGEb4

Good call Andrew. Please give us any feed back you guys have.

I tried the video in IE and Firefox, and it doesn't work. When I right click it, the play, pause, stop buttons are greyed out also so I think there's an issue with the vid and not the browser.

I tried the video in IE and Firefox, and it doesn't work. When I right click it, the play, pause, stop buttons are greyed out also so I think there's an issue with the vid and not the browser.

It is fixed now, got them uploaded to youtube!!!!

Nice, thanks.

Nice tip on checking piston operation before putting the arm in it; everyone should do this by hand.

TTT Bump

I was really hoping that after getting the SSP MC I "will never think about it again".
Turns out this is the only thing that I'm thinking about since my car is sitting undrivable due to bad seals in the MC.
The new seals were sent to me, but it will probably take 2 months to arrive. And even then I'm warried that it will not be a solution from what I'm hearing.
As I understand, the problem with the seals occurs when the plunger grinds against the inside of the MC and shavings destroy the seals and contaminate the liquid. I can see that when I press the clutch the plunger doesn't go in straight, but a bit to the side and grinds.
So when I install the new seals, the problem will not be solved? As I understand the new design seals are not yet available and I'm getting the old design seals?
I aslo invested in the new plunger. And again, I got the old version which grinds (the round one, without flat surfaces on the arm). I guess, if I install it it will make things even worse because I will have metal shavings instead of plastic from the stock plunger?
I really don't know what to do now. Any help would be appreciated.

I was really hoping that after getting the SSP MC I "will never think about it again".
Turns out this is the only thing that I'm thinking about since my car is sitting undrivable due to bad seals in the MC.
The new seals were sent to me, but it will probably take 2 months to arrive. And even then I'm warried that it will not be a solution from what I'm hearing.
As I understand, the problem with the seals occurs when the plunger grinds against the inside of the MC and shavings destroy the seals and contaminate the liquid. I can see that when I press the clutch the plunger doesn't go in straight, but a bit to the side and grinds.
So when I install the new seals, the problem will not be solved? As I understand the new design seals are not yet available and I'm getting the old design seals?
I aslo invested in the new plunger. And again, I got the old version which grinds (the round one, without flat surfaces on the arm). I guess, if I install it it will make things even worse because I will have metal shavings instead of plastic from the stock plunger?
I really don't know what to do now. Any help would be appreciated.

I would recommend that you run your plastic clutch arm until you get the new revised arm, and the good thing about when most of the people who have had seal failure, you can still drive the car, the pedal only stays to the floor if you hold it down for any length of time, if you just push quick and release, no problem, the new seals are made of a harder rubber, more resistant to wear.

I'm thinking about getting the Ssp mc
with the exedy twin
now I'm having seconds thoughts
Ima wait till they revise it
when will the new version com out?!?
Hope everyhing works out mojito

I think it's out already. I ordered mine on Saturday and Jeremy said it was the new revised one with the new seals as well.

I'm thinking about getting the Ssp mc
with the exedy twin
now I'm having seconds thoughts
Ima wait till they revise it
when will the new version com out?!?
Hope everyhing works out mojito


Wait.

I will post back what the result is since I have tried every iteration in my car lately...

I would recommend that you run your plastic clutch arm until you get the new revised arm, and the good thing about when most of the people who have had seal failure, you can still drive the car, the pedal only stays to the floor if you hold it down for any length of time, if you just push quick and release, no problem, the new seals are made of a harder rubber, more resistant to wear.
Well, I can drive, but it just doesn't feel safe. I happen to be in a place with lots of traffic, and often you need to control your motion by holding clutch in. When it falls, your best bet is to shut the engine with a brake, which is not good.
Also, the top half of clutch pedal travel feels empty (I did rebleed the clutch), which means only bottom half works, which also means that I may not disingage the clutch completely when shiftng which can't be good neither for the clutch, nor for the tranny.
So yes, in theory I can drive the car but with the above reservations. I just chose not to.
Anyway, what should I do to get the upgraded arm?
Do I understand correctly that you sent me the new stronger version of the seals?

Use the stock plunger for now. When did you get your MC...? I wonder if we had the same batch? My plunger also hit the side of the MC and the seals also failed. I know that even with the new seals my MC is still going to fail, mine did 3 days later.

I was really hoping that after getting the SSP MC I "will never think about it again".
Turns out this is the only thing that I'm thinking about since my car is sitting undrivable due to bad seals in the MC.
The new seals were sent to me, but it will probably take 2 months to arrive. And even then I'm warried that it will not be a solution from what I'm hearing.
As I understand, the problem with the seals occurs when the plunger grinds against the inside of the MC and shavings destroy the seals and contaminate the liquid. I can see that when I press the clutch the plunger doesn't go in straight, but a bit to the side and grinds.
So when I install the new seals, the problem will not be solved? As I understand the new design seals are not yet available and I'm getting the old design seals?
I aslo invested in the new plunger. And again, I got the old version which grinds (the round one, without flat surfaces on the arm). I guess, if I install it it will make things even worse because I will have metal shavings instead of plastic from the stock plunger?
I really don't know what to do now. Any help would be appreciated.

When did you get your MC...? I wonder if we had the same batch? My plunger also hit the side of the MC and the seals also failed. I know that even with the new seals my MC is still going to fail, mine did 3 days later.
I ordered my MC in mid January. The car was sitting in the garage till late march, so I only used it for a month or so until the first time the pedal fell in.

So what is ssp going to do for customers who have this problem?

Well, I can drive, but it just doesn't feel safe. I happen to be in a place with lots of traffic, and often you need to control your motion by holding clutch in. When it falls, your best bet is to shut the engine with a brake, which is not good.
Also, the top half of clutch pedal travel feels empty (I did rebleed the clutch), which means only bottom half works, which also means that I may not disingage the clutch completely when shiftng which can't be good neither for the clutch, nor for the tranny.
So yes, in theory I can drive the car but with the above reservations. I just chose not to.
Anyway, what should I do to get the upgraded arm?
Do I understand correctly that you sent me the new stronger version of the seals?

If you don't have any confidence in the SSP MC then go another route, obvisely I would rather you be happy with what you got, you have problems, contact SSP get them to resolve them, if that doesn't work for you go with a different solution, you can always default to the evo 9 conversion if you are so worried about it that you can't drive the car. Personally, I can tell you that the evo 9 conversion is a bitch, major PITA. And the same thing can happen with that master cylinder as well, just read some of the old evo 9 forums.

Are you still working with or on the revisions of this product?

Are you still working with or on the revisions of this product?

SSP hasn't needed me to do anything else for them, I imagine they are working on it still, you would have to ask them.

No I was just curious to your further involvement. I should be getting a new MC to test this weekend.. we'll see. I will report back... lol .. again.

BTW - needed more force on the MC to get the stock piston out.. lol plastic crap. Thanks for the tip.

So has anyone found a complete solution yet?

well if it means anything to anyone. I was one of the first with the ssp mc stock plunger. the seal did tear and clutch fell to the floor. I called ssp and they overnighted me the new seal ( the best customer service I have had on any online experiance, text messages always answered. they even answered the phone once like at 2 am).

been running the new seal since jan. and have driven the car everyday in traffic since then. Zero problems =)

Great. I hope the new seals will solve it for me too.

Would it be possible to install both the new plunger and new seals by just taking the pedal off? My seals failed me too.

Would it be possible to install both the new plunger and new seals by just taking the pedal off? My seals failed me too.

Yes, PM sent

What?

You mean can you remove the plunger and take the piston out of the MC, without having to uninstall the MC....?

If so then yes. Pop off the the plunger, push up the two pins and you can pull it out. I would recommend draining your clutch fluid.

Would it be possible to install both the new plunger and new seals by just taking the pedal off? My seals failed me too.

No, you can however remove the pins with the MC installed, it is just a bit of a pain, generally it is easier and faster to just remove the whole MC and install the new seals and plunger arm. The pedal assembly is all one piece, the pedal has pins that are pressed in at the top and not easy to get out, you would need a big hammer and a punch to get it out and that is not going to happen with it installed in the car.

how long does it take to ship out once payment is received? :I

how long does it take to ship out once payment is received? :I

usually the same day......Hit me up, or send me a PM when you put your order through. I'll check on the shipping status for you.

No, you can however remove the pins with the MC installed, it is just a bit of a pain, generally it is easier and faster to just remove the whole MC and install the new seals and plunger arm. The pedal assembly is all one piece, the pedal has pins that are pressed in at the top and not easy to get out, you would need a big hammer and a punch to get it out and that is not going to happen with it installed in the car.

The pins are easy to get out, use a small L shaped hex screw driver and push them out. one you do that you can remove the plunger and then pull out the piston.


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Wildbog, like I told you on the phone, if you do not feel comfortable doing this on your own, find someone around you that is willing to help. You car may be limping around right now, but you can still drive it.

If you start this on your own, make sure someone is there with you to help you bleed the system. Also pick up some brake fluid (DOT3, Autozone has a sale). You can call me if you have any issues.

usually the same day......Hit me up, or send me a PM when you put your order through. I'll check on the shipping status for you.

What? I sent the payment through via paypal last tuesday...haven't heard anything back yet...

What? I sent the payment through via paypal last tuesday...haven't heard anything back yet...


Unless you asked for it to be sent faster it just go's out reg. ground. That can take 5 days depending on your area.

lol.. Jeremy check you PM.

10-4

The pins are easy to get out, use a small L shaped hex screw driver and push them out. one you do that you can remove the plunger and then pull out the piston.


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Wildbog, like I told you on the phone, if you do not feel comfortable doing this on your own, find someone around you that is willing to help. You car may be limping around right now, but you can still drive it.

If you start this on your own, make sure someone is there with you to help you bleed the system. Also pick up some brake fluid (DOT3, Autozone has a sale). You can call me if you have any issues.

But the pin on the driver's side of the master is next to impossible to get back in if you take it all the way out, while the master cylinder is installed, I found easier and less of a headache to just remove the whole master cylinder and pull the pins out where I could see what I was working on.

i know what you are saying.... however you can get it back in, but another way is to pop the pins up so that the MC releases the plunger... But what your are not mentioning is that this only works for those with the stock plunger, if you have the upgraded one, you have to remove the pins or pop them up far enough to release the plunger.

i know what you are saying.... however you can get it back in, but another way is to pop the pins up so that the MC releases the plunger... But what your are not mentioning is that this only works for those with the stock plunger, if you have the upgraded one, you have to remove the pins or pop them up far enough to release the plunger.

Right, like stated in the second video on page 1, you have to install it with ring around the aluminum plunger arm, since you can't slide the ring over the end of the arm with it installed, what I do for that instance is, remove the pins up far enough to release the plunger and then remove the piston, put a rag over the end to catch fluid and then put new seals on and re-install, on some I have just pulled the pins, and then removed the master, usually I will just pull the reservoir line and cap off the reservoir and then remove the master cylinder.

Are all the issues with the SSP MC addressed so I can buy one and run it worry free? I am in need of a clutch in the coming months.

Great thanks guys

Thanks for what lol.

HA! too many things open... that wasn't even supposed to be a forum post

Are all the issues with the SSP MC addressed so I can buy one and run it worry free? I am in need of a clutch in the coming months.
Based on the install we did of the redesigned SSP master cylinder assembly on a car that has been eating master cylinders, I would say yes. It has some improvements over the original design, including a fully adjustable rod. It also has internal redesign that should eliminate any issues with sticking and seal failure. The installation did not require the master cylinder be disassembled at all, and was very strait forward.