For the break in period, the manual recommends (page 3-2):

● Avoid revving the engine. Do not exceed 5,000 rpm for the first 600 miles (1,000 km).
● Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, prolonged high-speed driving and rough shifting for the first 300 miles (500 km).
● Avoid sudden braking for the first 300 miles (500 km).
● The standard-equipment tires use a high-grip compound. Thus drive with extra care for the first 200 miles (300 km).
● Do not overload the vehicle. Observe the seating capacity (See "Cargo loads precautions" on page 4-12).
● Do not use this vehicle for trailer towing.

I have been shifting before 4,000 rpm, staying below 60mph, and will be doing so for about 1,000 miles. ;)

Anyone doing anything different?

Reving as much as possible

Pedal to the Metal as much as I cant

Shift somewhere after 8k RPMS

Taking it to its top speed

Braking as late as possbile

Putting Diesel In instead of Premium

Lots of donuts

Burning out

Hardest shifts possible

You know, the usual break in stuff:)

:jk:

You would probably fall into the Severe Maintenance category. :eek2:

lots of stop and go type driving= good. Allow the car to fully heat up and cool down often=good. drive car 1000 miles at 60mph=bad.Enjoy!

:weirdosign: Ye, your right. If you drive a 1000 miles at 60 miles an hour....that would take you almost 17 hours. Don't forget you have to stop for gas.

Damn... what should I do 'cuz when I get my MR, I'll have to drive it from Los Angeles to Boise, ID, which will take 17+ hours on highway? Does it need an oil change earlier than the recommended 3,000 miles? I've heard after 1,000 for oil change during break in. I've never had a new car, so I'm not use to this.

[quote=EvoX-LI;39462]:weirdosign: Im from Cali what do you expect?

I always change the oil on a car immediately when I get a car to get all the crud out of the engine from the factory, like metal filings and such.

Refering again to my Warranty and Maintenance Manual:

There are two maintenance schedules that show proper service for your vehicle.

Regardless of which maintenance schedule you follow, the use of fully synthetic motor oil is required. See "Engine Oil and Filter" in the Owner's Manual for details on motor oil requirements.

First is "Regular maintenance schedule".
Follow the Regular maintenance schedule only if none of the driving conditions in the Severe maintenance section apply.

Second is "Severe maintenance schedule".
Follow the Severe maintenance schedule only if your vehicle is frequently under one or more of the following road conditions.

● Driving on dusty, rough, muddy or salt-spread roads
● Towing or police, taxi or commercial operation
● Extensive idling and /or low speed operation
● Repeated short-trip operation at freezing temperatures (engine not thoroughly warmed up)
● Extended use of brakes while driving
● More than 50% operation in heavy city traffic during hot weather above 90°F (32°C)

Regular Maintenance Schedule starts at 5,000 Miles (8,000km) or at 5 months
Severe Maintenance Schedule start at 3,000 Miles (4,800km) or at 3 months.

For the first 100 miles, partial throttle and up 3/4 throttle up to about 4500 rpms, varying load and rpms as much as possible. After that, do a mix of light, medium, and heavy throttle applications all throughout the rev range up to 5000 rpms. Do some full throttle bursts to 5000, but don't go any over that, and don't do it all the time. Just mix it up as much as possible. Breaking in an engine too gently will not allow the rings and valves, and all the other stuff to seat properly, breaking it in too hard and you'll warp stuff and cause scuffing of the internal components. Afer 600 miles, I wouldn't immediately start redlining it. Start easing into 6000 ocassionally for another 100 miles, and then for the next 50-100 miles start hitting 6500 and ocassionally touching redline. After that, it's fair game. This is what I recommend, and what I am doing on my X, but everyone has different methods. Do whatever you think will work best for you. Just remember, not too gentle and not too rough. Other than that, mix it up however you like. Oh, and as far as the tranny is concerned, double clutch when upshifting and downshifting when it's cold to avoid the nothiness while the synchros are getting broken in. Once the tranny is warm, shift quickly and decisevly, but not too hard, an the shifts will be butter smooth. This seems to be what the X synchos like. Kep in mind though that after a few thousand miles pass this notchiness that seems common with the X should start to go away after all sharp edges and burs get smoothed out from use. Good luck, and enjoy.

My Evo once I get it I'll settle for 3500 rpms as a shift point and thats assuming I'm doing the shifting ( MR X FTW)....I'll be leaving it in normal mode for the 1,000 mile break in I did it with the sentra and I've never had any engine problems and I drive the poor thing hard.

I went hard from the dealership.
Ok I stayed under 5000rpm for the first 1500kms. Otherwise it was all on.

I went hard from the dealership.

Ye, I went hard as soon as I sat in it too. :D

For the first 100 miles, partial throttle and up 3/4 throttle up to about 4500 rpms, varying load and rpms as much as possible. After that, do a mix of light, medium, and heavy throttle applications all throughout the rev range up to 5000 rpms. Do some full throttle bursts to 5000, but don't go any over that, and don't do it all the time. Just mix it up as much as possible. Breaking in an engine too gently will not allow the rings and valves, and all the other stuff to seat properly, breaking it in too hard and you'll warp stuff and cause scuffing of the internal components. Afer 600 miles, I wouldn't immediately start redlining it. Start easing into 6000 ocassionally for another 100 miles, and then for the next 50-100 miles start hitting 6500 and ocassionally touching redline. After that, it's fair game. This is what I recommend, and what I am doing on my X, but everyone has different methods. Do whatever you think will work best for you. Just remember, not too gentle and not too rough. Other than that, mix it up however you like. Oh, and as far as the tranny is concerned, double clutch when upshifting and downshifting when it's cold to avoid the nothiness while the synchros are getting broken in. Once the tranny is warm, shift quickly and decisevly, but not too hard, an the shifts will be butter smooth. This seems to be what the X synchos like. Kep in mind though that after a few thousand miles pass this notchiness that seems common with the X should start to go away after all sharp edges and burs get smoothed out from use. Good luck, and enjoy.

Good suggestion .. I transit to 7500rpms occasionally during break in ..
The worst thing you want to do is constant rpm/load .. because the components may not seat in properly when you're done ..

Also the new engine has performance pistons and rings .. so you actually need less time to run in ..

Ye, I went hard as soon as I sat in it too. :D

Now what kind of hard are we talking about here??:wackoff:

We drove it at the dealership, drove it home, put it up on the lift, built parts, beat the piss out of it on the dyno, then beat it once we got back to the shop.

That's what they mean by "break" in, no? :rock:

i drove it hard the second i got it. :rock:

^ get your oil changed early :)

^ get your oil changed early :)

ya.. once i hit 1000 miles i plan on changing all the fluids... i've done this to all my cars in the past and each has always treated me well. :shades:

I varied the RPM's alot for the first 1000 miles. I also made sure to get up to 6500 rpms, with light throttle. This just ensured that everything was working properly. Then, at around 1200 miles, I took it to the track and really broke it in. Car did great at the track, no funny smells or anything.

i drove it hard the second i got it. :rock:

Why The hell not!?!?!? You have a warranty! Rape The shit out of it!!!!!!! Make your goal to ruin that engine before the warranty is up and get a new one on the dealer's dime. :rock:

If there is obvious abuse they wouldn't cover it though. Blowing a motor to a point that it isn't repairable, is very tough.

I varied the RPM's alot for the first 1000 miles. I also made sure to get up to 6500 rpms, with light throttle. This just ensured that everything was working properly. Then, at around 1200 miles, I took it to the track and really broke it in. Car did great at the track, no funny smells or anything.
By track you mean actual course right? Not drag strip?
How was it??

I would have to agree changing the oil early is definaly a good idea.
J

It was awesome, I have a write up on the experience, and videos posted around here somewhere.

It's a myth. Your Evo already test at the Mitsubishi Japan proving ground before delivery.

Already take off the wing.

Why The hell not!?!?!? You have a warranty! Rape The shit out of it!!!!!!! Make your goal to ruin that engine before the warranty is up and get a new one on the dealer's dime. :rock:

warranty? LOL! thats a myth!

The Problem With "Easy Break In" is that the honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

take from: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

proper break-in is a controversial topic :shades:

Damn... what should I do 'cuz when I get my MR, I'll have to drive it from Los Angeles to Boise, ID, which will take 17+ hours on highway? Does it need an oil change earlier than the recommended 3,000 miles? I've heard after 1,000 for oil change during break in. I've never had a new car, so I'm not use to this.

Drive it around town for the first few hours. Having early miles on the highway isn't good.

I always change the oil on a car immediately when I get a car to get all the crud out of the engine from the factory, like metal filings and such.

'ata boy.

It's a myth. Your Evo already test at the Mitsubishi Japan proving ground before delivery.

?

^I think he means they test drive every Evo X before it ships so the engine already has miles on it that you don't see.

It's a myth. Your Evo already test at the Mitsubishi Japan proving ground before delivery.

But did they change the engine oil after they tested it?

Usually, performance car engine filled with mineral oil when it's assembled to help the break in. They dynoed it to get at least their published HP and TQ, anything less they disassembled again. Then they put the engine on the car and test a couple of lap. Before delivery they change the oil to synthetic. Please note that engine will get stronger in the first 5000 miles.
I know Porsche do this, I think other performance car do this also.

i am below <500 miles but have gone upto 6k rpm and 100mph wow did i messed it?

Me too. No problem, as long as you wait the engine temperature to rise to normal level before rev it up.
Also no towing, before 1000 miles.

I kept mine under 4k for the first 1000 miles and just did the first oil change today, so id say she's all broken in now :P

Usually, performance car engine filled with mineral oil when it's assembled to help the break in. They dynoed it to get at least their published HP and TQ, anything less they disassembled again. Then they put the engine on the car and test a couple of lap. Before delivery they change the oil to synthetic. Please note that engine will get stronger in the first 5000 miles.
I know Porsche do this, I think other performance car do this also.

This is a luxury for the evo .. you don't get this kind of details .. it is never a limited production run ..

Even so previous series also doesn't test/run the engine before being sold .. They are mass produced components

And NO they also don't test the engines on the track before putting them out .. Only the GT-Rs do that .. every one of them comes with about 100km on the odometer ..

And yes.. synthetics provide too much protection and prevents proper run in in a new engine

I wish my dealer told me this before i left the yard.