HOW TO: Install Cone Filter

Parts Required
- Any cone filter. I got one for $20 from my local auto store.

Tools Required
- Phillips (+) and Flathead (-) Screw Drivers
- 10mm Socket and Wrench
- Needle Nose Pliers (optional)


Recommended Number of People
- Just yourself.

Difficulty
- This is a 3 project. It is literally harder to put a vinyl sticker on.

Time to complete
- 15 min max.

Step by Step Instructions

1 - Start by separating your MAF sensor and your Air Box. They are held together by 2 x 10mm bolts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/2.jpg

2 - There is a rubber gasket between the 2. You will not need it, but save it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/3.jpg


3 - Carefully push out the 2 clips holding the MAF sensor wire to the Air Box with your Needle Nose Pliers. You you can use a screw driver.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/14.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/13.jpg

4 - Unscrew this 10mm bolt holding down your air box on the right side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/4.jpg

5 - Unscrew 2 x Plastic Spreader Screws (if thats what they are called) with your Phillips (+) Screw Driver.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/5.jpg

6 - Take out your air box. Screw the 2 x Plastic Spreader Screws back in, and screw in the 10mm bolt that was holding your air box in place, back into the support bracket. Take the rubber grommet and put it your stock airbox. Take out the 2 tall metal cylinder washers out of your MAF sensor and screw the bolts back into your airbox with your grommet and washers in place. You will never lose these, and you can go back to stock just as fast if you want.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/11.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/7.jpg

8 - I cut a small hole in the new filter coupler to make room for a little plastic pin that comes out to align the air box and gasket to the MAF sensor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/6.jpg

9 - Screw the filter on with the supplied (I hope) coupler and clamp. I tucked the MAF wire under the filter without a problem.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Cone%20Filter%20X/10.jpg

You can now hear your BOV and Turbo Spool!!! Yes!

Video

I just did mine with a KN reverse conical filter. Gonna test her out tomorrow.

Get a picture up, and maybe a sound clip. If at all possible; a video. (try not to catch anything illegal :p )

What BOV is that?

LoL. Everything is 100% stock except the filter!!!! Its crazy!

Yeah I have the K&N it sounds great! The bov actually sounds almost sequential it kinda does a double blow off sometimes. The turbo sounds great as well. I definitely feel a power gain at the top end to it pulls a lot harder to redline.

Does anyone know if this writeup is accurate for the Base Lancer as well? Great write up EvoX-LI!

My friend has a lancer. I will check his engine bay now...brb.

*Edit*
Sorry. I just checked it and it looks like the MAF and the stock air box are one unit. Manufacturers seem to be doing that alot lately. Thank god the X isn't like this. I will get a picture so you know what I mean a bit later.

That would be great EvoX! Thanks!

Ok. Here is the base lancer stock air box. As I said before, the MAF is mated to the damn box.
:slaphead:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Lancer%20Engine/100_0732.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Lancer%20Engine/100_0736.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Lancer%20Engine/100_0733.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v728/EliteWarMachine/Lancer%20Engine/100_0735.jpg

You can now hear your BOV and Turbo Spool!!! Yes!



Test run complete:thumbup: Absolutely amazing!!! You can really hear the turbo spool. The reverse conical shape really amplifies the sound.
The car seems to take off quicker. I can really tell the difference.:rock:

Video please. :shades:

Video please. :shades:
No vid yet. Posting pics soon.

First of all I went with the K&N brand reverse conical filter...
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51JJSFF369L._AA280_.jpg

I went ahead and fabricated a heat shield. I used a semi-hard plastic laying around my garage.
Cut a 16x7 piece. Then fold to fit it to the front filter housing. Use 3M double sided tape to attach to the housing. Cut the bottom side, then fold up for room for the wires.




http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a1.jpg

Install complete...

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a2.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a3.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a4.jpg

Nice. I just might have to do the same thing with the plastic.

Nice. I just might have to do the same thing with the plastic.

I used my kid's old 5 dollar plastic sled for the shield :thumbup:
http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/297671_front200.jpg

lookin good guys!!! love the sound of that turbo sppoooolling up!!!.. :)

First of all I went with the K&N brand reverse conical filter...
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51JJSFF369L._AA280_.jpg

I went ahead and fabricated a heat shield. I used a semi-hard plastic laying around my garage.
Cut a 16x7 piece. Then fold to fit it to the front filter housing. Use 3M double sided tape to attach to the housing. Cut the bottom side, then fold up for room for the wires.




http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a1.jpg

Install complete...

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a2.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a3.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii119/Chrisrt4/a4.jpg

What's the KN part#?

very neat.

What's the KN part#?

RR-3003

nice car

has any one come across problems with there engine with the cone on?

-1... sigh... my bolts just spin and spin too. tried everything. I dont want to drill them out though.

shat.

jus did this today. used the apc cone from advance auto. it was on sale for 25 bucks. man the difference in sound is astounding. i cant wait to get past the break-in period.

-1... sigh... my bolts just spin and spin too. tried everything. I dont want to drill them out though.

shat.

hey I know you :P

Was it just your lancer of the Evo as well that dynod lower with the cone filter on (though it does sound mean)?

Awesome! I will be doing this mod this weekend:godance:

good write up.

Anyone else done this. Sounds awesome from the vids.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evox/aemcai.htm
A write up about the AEM CAI. Same Concept as seen here.. just a new, complete box.

It Yields....

+17 ft-lbs.
+16.67 HP

Simply Awesome.

Anyone else done this. Sounds awesome from the vids.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evox/aemcai.htm
A write up about the AEM CAI. Same Concept as seen here.. just a new, complete box.

It Yields....

+17 ft-lbs.
+16.67 HP

Simply Awesome.

I don't see any advantage to using the aem setup over an ams or other brand short ram with a shield. The true cai's with filter in fenderwell like ams and agp yield more hp/tq than the aem setup. Plus, the gigantic aem logo gives away that it's not stock. Personally, I am doing the $25 mod with my own shield until I need to be tuned and then will run an AMS cai.

True, it is really expensive compared to this 25 dollar setup haha

I don't see any advantage to using the aem setup over an ams or other brand short ram with a shield. The true cai's with filter in fenderwell like ams and agp yield more hp/tq than the aem setup. Plus, the gigantic aem logo gives away that it's not stock. Personally, I am doing the $25 mod with my own shield until I need to be tuned and then will run an AMS cai.


hoooray!! im not alone!

this is exactly what i wanna do.

why spend 300+ on a SRI when you can spend 25, then drop the dough later for the cai :shades:

then wham 20+ hp

hoooray!! im not alone!

this is exactly what i wanna do.

why spend 300+ on a SRI when you can spend 25, then drop the dough later for the cai :shades:

then wham 20+ hp

I just got done with this a couple hours ago. This with the ams single exit cbe was a large difference from stock. Tomorrow, I'm plugging the recirc hole in the intake and venting the stock bov to atmosphere. Despite what people seem to think, I'm not seeing any way the bov can affect maf readings when it's at the opposite end of the system. I will post on this tomorrow when I finish and drive it for a couple hours.

Just got done with the air shield. It only has metal etch primer on it right now, but I will be coating it with Wurth sabesto under coat tomorrow.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/0213091521.jpghttp://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j287/dj1explorer/0213091521a.jpg

I just got done with this a couple hours ago. This with the ams single exit cbe was a large difference from stock. Tomorrow, I'm plugging the recirc hole in the intake and venting the stock bov to atmosphere. Despite what people seem to think, I'm not seeing any way the bov can affect maf readings when it's at the opposite end of the system. I will post on this tomorrow when I finish and drive it for a couple hours.



well i think i read somewhere in the past, the point the bov goes back into the inkate is to keep the turbine of the turbo spinning in between shifts when your off the throttle. but im not 100%

Actually Venting to atmosphere does affect the MAF readings. The MAF is before the turbo thus metering the air that is "suppose" to enter the engine. When you vent 100% to atmosphere the air will no longer enter the engine so all the air that was metered along with the fuel curve corrections the ECM has done will now be 100% wrong and will cause the engine to stall at High RPM to Netural Cruise. It will also cause extremely high Rich spike's inbetween shifts and can cause some damage to your catalytic converter, due to the excessive amounts of HC (Hydro Carbons) going through it.



the point the bov goes back into the inkate is to keep the turbine of the turbo spinning in between shifts when your off the throttle.

The air being bypassed has nothing to do with the turbine spining since the turbine is on the exhaust side. The turbo is EXHAUST driven not intake driven.

I just got done with this a couple hours ago. This with the ams single exit cbe was a large difference from stock. Tomorrow, I'm plugging the recirc hole in the intake and venting the stock bov to atmosphere. Despite what people seem to think, I'm not seeing any way the bov can affect maf readings when it's at the opposite end of the system. I will post on this tomorrow when I finish and drive it for a couple hours.

Personally, when I had my BOV VTA, I seemed to throw codes and go into limp mode a lot, namely when in fifth gear going up a hill, but also when doing some sporty driving as well. I can't really tell you why it happened, but when I put it back to recirc, my problems went away.

That's wierd, I had my modis hooked up all day monitoring parameters with bov vta with no problems.

i put the front half part of the stock box and it looks good as well. you still get to utilize the lil scoop thing that goes to the front of the hood :D

whoops nevermind..saw the pics done on page 2 also...that's exactly what i did.

Actually Venting to atmosphere does affect the MAF readings. The MAF is before the turbo thus metering the air that is "suppose" to enter the engine. When you vent 100% to atmosphere the air will no longer enter the engine so all the air that was metered along with the fuel curve corrections the ECM has done will now be 100% wrong and will cause the engine to stall at High RPM to Netural Cruise. It will also cause extremely high Rich spike's inbetween shifts and can cause some damage to your catalytic converter, due to the excessive amounts of HC (Hydro Carbons) going through it.
The air being bypassed has nothing to do with the turbine spining since the turbine is on the exhaust side. The turbo is EXHAUST driven not intake driven.

It's really funny, I've been tuning DSM's for 11 years now. All of them run maf's and claim recirc is the way to go. Every build I've done has defied that. The x does have a different maf system, but it doesn't change the fact that the bov has no affect under normal driving conditions. It stays closed until it recognizes a change in manifold pressure (vac applied to diaphragm, or if pull type, any change in manifold pressure). In the hundreds to tenths of a second between shifts, it opens and closes relieving stress from the engine components. I've tried to emulate what you are referring to many times while hooked up to the latest scantools with no luck. I'm just not seeing this happen.

OP, just a quick question...do you need to support the filter by having a bracket or it holds itself up even on vibration?

OP, just a quick question...do you need to support the filter by having a bracket or it holds itself up even on vibration?

If you look close at the pic on the right, behind the mass air flange I fabbed a u-shaped piece that reaches each bolt hole. I made a 90 on the other end and riveted it to the shield, and cut a slit into 1/4" fuel injection hose to slip over the metal edge that might contact the bottom of the maf.

My favorite part of the shield is the fact that I used the two factory grommets that slip over the factory bracket so I didn't have to bolt the shield down.

after installing the cone did you reset the ecu ( disconnection battery )?? Thanks

Just finished this mod 20 mins ago. It was very easy and sounds great. I just bought a heatshield on ebay for 17$. Can't wait to get it.

http://www.revotec-usa.com/ebay_pic/AFHS.jpg (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-3-5-CONE-FILTER-INTAKE-HEAT-SHIELD-HEATSHIELD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38634QQihZ003QQitemZ130287318778QQrdZ1QQss pagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting)

after installing the cone did you reset the ecu ( disconnection battery )?? Thanks

No

what is the diameter of the cone to fit the intake?

Its 3"

As I stated I never said anything about normal driving conditions. I stated under heavy boost like High way pulls than going top neutral the car will stall, due to the fact of the air escaping b4 the engine. My setup on my car has the maf after the bov and I have no stalls. put the maf b4 the bov and you will get a stall from high boost to throttle closed (neutral).

I got my heatshield today. Here are some pics.

3010

3011

3012

3013

3014

^How has your car been running the last few days? I'm just looking for some final input before I go out and buy a cone filter. Your heat shield looks very similar to the one I'm looking at (buschur's carbon one), any feedback would be appreciated.

^How has your car been running the last few days? I'm just looking for some final input before I go out and buy a cone filter. Your heat shield looks very similar to the one I'm looking at (buschur's carbon one), any feedback would be appreciated.

My car has been runing fine with no issues such as CEL's or reving. I reinstalled the front half of the airbox in order to stop the rattling of the filter, which was driving me crazy. How much is Buschurs?

Cool, thanks for the info. Buschurs heat shield is expensive as hell, the best price I could find was $179.99 at maperformance. I'm a sucker for carbon fiber though lol. Also, have you been running with the AC on? Just wondering how well the heat shield works with the extra, heat :)

Cool, thanks for the info. Buschurs heat shield is expensive as hell, the best price I could find was $179.99 at maperformance. I'm a sucker for carbon fiber though lol. Also, have you been running with the AC on? Just wondering how well the heat shield works with the extra, heat :)

Damn! Thats kind of steep for a heat shield, but thats what you get for CF. No it is friggin cold here in CT, so I haven't run the AC yet.

Yeah I know, I'm still debating on it... I love the way it looks though. I had a feeling you'd say that. Has anyone had weird idle issues or an unusualy jerky ride with the buschur (or similar) heat shield? Also, I'm going to be using an AEM dryflow filter, not one of buschurs kits, will this particular shield attach to the filter?

Just finished this mod today, I had to order a new MAF housing on Tuesday because the stock intake box was stuck to it. I ordered it from JNZ Tuning and their service was excellent, they replied to my emails in minutes and were very helpful. Anyway the car sounds incredible now, the engine noise seems the same but the turbo and BOV are loud as hell. I was surprised at first ( and by the looks on their faces the people I drove by were too :p ) I can't feel any power difference, but it felt much smoother at higher RPMs. I didn't have any idle issues either, don't have a heat shield, I put the AC on, and the heat, still felt perfect :)

I think I will try this tomorrow :D just so happens I have a 3" K&N I just bought for my old car.. :P looks like the old one is going back on the old car and the new one is going on the Evo ahah :P

I will have to see if it messes with the AP tune at all .. if it does atleast i didnt spend anything for the intake :P and can put it back to the stock air box

+1 for this mod. After install definitely pleased with the added sounds of the turbo and bov. As others have said no idle issues or CELs. I also noticed a slight increase in fuel economy as an added bonus. Easy to do and very much worth the few bucks it takes.

Hate to bump an older thread but I just tried this and the results are pretty amazing. I already had a cone filter on my Miata and I figured "Hell, why not. If it sucks I can just put it back for $0." I'm really impressed with the way this sounds. Like everyone else said - 0 gain on the ass dyno (didn't really expect anything) but it sounds cool as hell. :-)

sure does sound cool with the cone.

i did the mod and like it alot... spent 24 bucks on the filter... like the other guy i put the front half of the intake box back on because the filter has NO support after install and bounces and the way i drive i cannot have that thing flinging around... just put a small peice of foam pad with some tape to give it some padding ... see pics....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/100_0844.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/100_0846.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/100_0847.jpg

Nice. Good idea with the foam.

Not a bad idea to help with the rattle.

thanks for the compliments .. by the way im total NOOB here got the evo yesterday hehehehe

i did the mod and like it alot... spent 24 bucks on the filter... like the other guy i put the front half of the intake box back on because the filter has NO support after install and bounces and the way i drive i cannot have that thing flinging around... just put a small peice of foam pad with some tape to give it some padding ... see pics....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/100_0844.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/100_0846.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/h311rasor/100_0847.jpg
The accordian bend past the MAF seems to relax after a bit and settle into resting the filter on the OEM bracket below. havent noticed any rattles or banging but the foam is a good call. hoping to fab a bracket soon.

I posted this in another topic about this, But are you guys getting a horible almost rubbing noise when your just cruising? It sounded so bad when i would just be cruising I had to pull it off.. my passengers asked if there was somthing loose or dragging when I had the filter on..

Before I installed my heat shield I would get a quiet bumping/knocking type of sound when I started the car. I never had a real bad rattling or rubbing noise while driving though.

drove it around all day with my mod done and LOVE the sound of it... no clue if it gets any more horses but who cares it sounds MEANER hehehehee... no strange sounds of bumping or rubbing with my added padding... and when i show the car ill just remove the ugly remains of the intake box... more mods to come SOOOOOON!!!!

I just installed the filter. Sound is great!!! But one of the bolt on map senser was broken when I installed. It seems I cannot go back to stock any more.

I am wondering if this mod is going to make it run too lean without a tune. Does anyone know?

I am wondering if this mod is going to make it run too lean without a tune. Does anyone know?
no one with any issues on here yet. Car is rich to begin with.

I did mine today. The bolts that went into the air box were spinning in place so I disconnected the MAF sensor and pulled the whole thing out so I could get vice grips on them. I pulled and twisted the bolts and ended up shattering the plastic around them. Other than that it was a breeze.

I took it out and pushed it pretty hard and didn't have any problems. I noticed it felt like it had a little more hp. The idle is extremely smooth now and it holds higher rpms longer than it did with the K&N Panel filter with the stock air box. It sounds mean as hell too!

No CEL's at all and I was giving her hell.:D

I did mine today. The bolts that went into the air box were spinning in place so I disconnected the MAF sensor and pulled the whole thing out so I could get vice grips on them. I pulled and twisted the bolts and ended up shattering the plastic around them. Other than that it was a breeze.

I took it out and pushed it pretty hard and didn't have any problems. I noticed it felt like it had a little more hp. The idle is extremely smooth now and it holds higher rpms longer than it did with the K&N Panel filter with the stock air box. It sounds mean as hell too!

No CEL's at all and I was giving her hell.:D

Congrats! Interesting to see someone go from a panel filter to this mod.

Since doing this mod I got a COBB AP and went to Stage 1 + 93 octane. The COBB map notes say not to run any type of aftermarket filter with it. Despite that I decided to try it anyway, figuring the COBB tune was extremely safe anyway. At first I thought it was just me, but the car didn't seem like it had as much pull as when the stock filter was on.

When they released the Access Tuner Race software I decided to do some datalogging both ways and see what I could find. The next day I saw that they released a COBB Stage 1 + AEM tune. I first did datalogging with the standard Cobb Stage 1 with and without the cone, and then tried logging with the Stage 1 + AEM with the cone, figuring it would be much better. It was. Gone was the mid-range power loss that I experienced with the Stage 1 + cone. Logging revealed that the ECU was still flagging a bit of timing pull and knock retard. Here's what I found:

http://www.i64x.com/pics2/evolog.jpg

The difference between the Stage 1 map and the Stage 1 + AEM map was just MAF calibration, so I decided to live tune with the cone, using the Stage 1 + AEM as a base. I was able to get rid of the knock retard completely and greatly improve the pulled timing to a little below the levels that I logged with the Cobb Stage 1 + cone filter.

Car runs WAY more mint now than when I was using the cone with the Stage 1, and according to logging is safer than using the cone with the Stage 1 + AEM tune.

If anyone has an AP and wants a Cobb Stage 1 93 Octane + Cone filter (rest of the car stock) tune for a USDM GSR, let me know and I can post it up.

Yeah post it! I have a AP on it's way. :)

excellent post!!

Agreed, great post i64x!

i cant the spin bolts out. can some one tell me how

i cant the spin bolts out. can some one tell me how

This happened to me, you should buy a new MAF adapter to put your new filter on, it's an easy part to replace. JNZTuning sells the OEM part here, http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214828&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2453&groupid=2454&subgroupid=12542&componentid=0&make=24&model=Lancer%20evolution&year=2008&graphicID=6266190&callout=14&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

can i just cut them off then buy a new one later? is anyone having problems w ther car after this

can i just cut them off then buy a new one later? is anyone having problems w ther car after this

I heated the airbox side up, put vice grips on the bolt heads, and pulled the bolt anchors out of the airbox with the bolts. They can slip back in if I had to take it back to the dealer, and then they would just think the anchors are spinning not that it's been tampered with.

can i just leave the botls in and cut slits n the side of the rubber on my filter

^All you have to do once the bolt anchors are out of the air box is to put vice grips on the anchor and use a 10mm to remove the bolt from the anchor. You probably could cut slits, as long as it doesn't interfere with clamping the filter down.

i can run this w the car untuned right? only mod is this filter

I wish there was something I could make to cover this... to prevent water and whatnot from getting into it, especially in the winter.

i can run this w the car untuned right? only mod is this filter

The filter is fine with the car untuned. The car runs really rich through the whole rpm range stock. Just make sure you have a shield for the filter to protect from when the high speed fan turns on. It throws off the gpm readings from the maf.

So my AEM DryFlow cone filter arrived yesterday from SpeedCircuit. My boss (flagg77) and I went out during lunchtime to throw on the cone filter. Fitment was a minor issue - there was about 1/8" all around space between the MAF housing and the cone filter's opening. Also, the inside rubber rim of the filter is slightly oiled.

I clamped it all on pretty tight and went for a drive. The sounds were great, and it felt a tad smoother throughout the RPM range. However, when we got back from Subway, I popped the hood and noticed the cone filter slipped right off and was barely held in place by the two metal columns that the stock airbox pops on top of. Oops!!

So I'll clean the oil from the inside lip to give it a little bit of friction and I'm thinking something like weather stripping on the inside lip to close the gap and add some tension when clamping it down?

What do other people do? Am I the only one running into this issue? Any one else's intake/filter pop off? Maybe I should fabricate a support brace that holds it up and in place, with an integrated heat shield... hmm :)

The filter is fine with the car untuned. The car runs really rich through the whole rpm range stock. Just make sure you have a shield for the filter to protect from when the high speed fan turns on. It throws off the gpm readings from the maf.

Off Topic, how does your shifting feel with both the under hood and shifter base bushings together? Did you do one and then the other, or both at once?

Stories like that /\ /\ are the reason you should just buy a real CAI.

Stories like that / / are the reason you should just buy a real CAI.

I agree! After playing with the fitment some more and putting the stock box back on for now, it really has just a little to grab on the MAF housing. Thankfully the DryFlow is an inexpensive experiment.

I think if you wanted something similar the Cobb is 150, but thats kinda nuts for a filter, bracket and that aluminum piece.

Thought about it, but yeah, it's basically a cone filter...and bracket. Maybe Cobb will just sell me the bracket. :)

Off Topic, how does your shifting feel with both the under hood and shifter base bushings together? Did you do one and then the other, or both at once?

I did underhood bushings, drove it for two weeks, and then did the base bushings. I can't tell any difference from stock. I'm buying the works delrin bushings soon to see if they're better. I really wish booger bushings made something for the x. I put them on my srt and it was the best feeling set of bushings I've ever used. I'm about to fab my own 58% redux shifter also. :rock: Stand by for the write up on that coming soon.

So my AEM DryFlow cone filter arrived yesterday from SpeedCircuit. My boss (flagg77) and I went out during lunchtime to throw on the cone filter. Fitment was a minor issue - there was about 1/8" all around space between the MAF housing and the cone filter's opening. Also, the inside rubber rim of the filter is slightly oiled.

I clamped it all on pretty tight and went for a drive. The sounds were great, and it felt a tad smoother throughout the RPM range. However, when we got back from Subway, I popped the hood and noticed the cone filter slipped right off and was barely held in place by the two metal columns that the stock airbox pops on top of. Oops!!

So I'll clean the oil from the inside lip to give it a little bit of friction and I'm thinking something like weather stripping on the inside lip to close the gap and add some tension when clamping it down?

What do other people do? Am I the only one running into this issue? Any one else's intake/filter pop off? Maybe I should fabricate a support brace that holds it up and in place, with an integrated heat shield... hmm :)

Had this happen with the AEM dryflow as well. Just wiped out the inside of the flange with kleenex, wiped off the MAF lip, and retightened it all firmly. Been on for 3 months now, rough roads, long trips, and ripping through mountain twisties, with no problems. Just take extra care to apply solid pressure towards the MAF while you are tightening the clamp and you'll be fine. ;)

After doing this mod do you have to avoid rain and puddles?

After doing this mod do you have to avoid rain and puddles?

Not even the fastest and furious-est can avoid the rain!! ;)

For just the cone filter, no, puddles aren't an issue (depends on your definition of a puddle -- if the puddle has a name and it starts with the word Lake, then yes, avoid it at all costs!). I don't see any issue with rain yet. If you're worried, don't put on the cone filter, or attach a heat shield and angle it such that it will deflect incoming rain away from the filter.

Not even the fastest and furious-est can avoid the rain!! ;)

For just the cone filter, no, puddles aren't an issue (depends on your definition of a puddle -- if the puddle has a name and it starts with the word Lake, then yes, avoid it at all costs!). I don't see any issue with rain yet. If you're worried, don't put on the cone filter, or attach a heat shield and angle it such that it will deflect incoming rain away from the filter.


Sweet, thanks for the quick reply! I'm really new to all of this and I just read that some people were trying to avoid getting rain in their CAI. I want to do this mod but I also want to be able to drive in the rain (my car is a every day driver).

Sweet, thanks for the quick reply! I'm really new to all of this and I just read that some people were trying to avoid getting rain in their CAI. I want to do this mod but I also want to be able to drive in the rain (my car is a every day driver).

there is some concern getting rain in a CAI, but this is technically a short ram intake (SRI) not a cold air intake. You would have to extend the piping to place the filter away from the engine bay heat (like the wheel well in the evo for instance) to be considered a CAI. So have at'er.

I've been running a CAI for a lil while now. The first few weeks I had it on I actually ran into puddles and put the CAI in worst case scenarios just to see if I can get a hiccup or something out of it. April was a very rainy month like always and the CAI worked with no problems at all. Just face the heat shield to the wheel lining and you will be fine. The little water that might make it through will hit the shield and not the filter.

I attempted this mod yesterday to no avail. the 10mm bolts in front of the MAF just spun.definately frustrating. has anyone remedied this without breaking it or buying new parts?

I attempted this mod yesterday to no avail. the 10mm bolts in front of the MAF just spun.definately frustrating. has anyone remedied this without breaking it or buying new parts?

Breaking it or buy a new one are really the only options... I don't think there is anything else you can do. The new MAF housing wont cost a whole a lot, that's what I had to do.

WOW this has happen to a lot of people maybe mitsubitshi gave us a trick bolt?:mad:

I think they tried to make it un-tunable.we WILL prevail.i will not be conquered by a machine.lol.

Thanks for the write up and all the details. Just did this yesterday, today during my lunch break, going to home depot to find something to hold the cone in place. It hasn't loosened but I am just a little nervous about it being able to shift around.

I did keep the front portion (in front of the pannel filter) of the factory intake in place.

great write up indeed but i got the "magic bolts" which blows. i just wish there was some way where i didnt break anything or have to buy new parts.

I went to home depot and bought some window insulation, it has a sticky side, and happened to be the correct size to fit in between the ribs on the front portion of the factory intake. In case anyone else decideds to keep the front portion on, I took a couple of pics.

I did the bottoms pieces by sticking 4 pieces together, and spaced them apart so that the cone would be trapped by two sides without having to touch the plastic from the intake.

I also went 3 wide on the top to hold it in place there as well. Filter now sits pretty firm in place.

got an 3" AEM dryflow filter from advanced auto parts, $50 and 10 minutes later...major suck....good suck. no problem with those maf bolts. here are pics of the finished product.

Good job gtop!

im back to airbox with drop in....i used cone for a while.. bov is more wossshhhh. actually i got 2 airbox. complete set that i can play with. because when that nuts and bolts start moving around you will be pissed.

I tried on mine. first of all I havd same problem like others. one of nut was keep spinning all time. I took it off(anyway I placed order of CAI) for easy install new K&N CAI with UICP. Then, I tried this way before I install K&N.
I got $27 APC corn filter from advanced auto part and installed it yesterday for 2 days, I don't like that AIR SUCTION sound at all. It's a lot louder than stock exhaust sound. I know some poeple like that kind sound but not me. It's not my taste at all...
Anyway, It's good try and works good without any problem.

I tried on mine. first of all I havd same problem like others. one of nut was keep spinning all time. I took it off(anyway I placed order of CAI) for easy install new K&N CAI with UICP. Then, I tried this way before I install K&N.
I got $27 APC corn filter from advanced auto part and installed it yesterday for 2 days, I don't like that AIR SUCTION sound at all. It's a lot louder than stock exhaust sound. I know some poeple like that kind sound but not me. It's not my taste at all...
Anyway, It's good try and works good without any problem.

You realize a CAI is going to make that same sound, if not louder... right?

You realize a CAI is going to make that same sound, if not louder... right?
That will be true.. CAI will make same loud. but with K&N CAI pipe, at least I can make recirculate my HKS SSQV. then should be quiter than now. most ploblem is I can't make recirculation to stock pipe(joint part needed) until I got all part that i ordered from lancershop.

i love you guys. when i bought the car, i thought i would be able to do something with the exhaust and intake. this is pretty sweet. i went with the aem dry flow. i had the same problem with the filter slipping off the maf; so i came back to the post. duh... cleaning the contact area is a lot easier than fabbing hooks or clips. it was a sling blade moment. having everybody saved me time and a headache. sounds like a dust buster now. i like it.

i love you guys. when i bought the car, i thought i would be able to do something with the exhaust and intake. this is pretty sweet. i went with the aem dry flow. i had the same problem with the filter slipping off the maf; so i came back to the post. duh... cleaning the contact area is a lot easier than fabbing hooks or clips. it was a sling blade moment. having everybody saved me time and a headache. sounds like a dust buster now. i like it.

did you leave the factory ram air set up on?

spinning bolts- i got lucky and my bolts broke free before the nuts inside. this is not some factory conspiracy, just poor manufacturing. the bolts are over-tightened at the factory or the design stinks. you can chose.

work around- if you cant get the nut to catch, you will need to re-bond the nut to the plastic. take the airbox out of the car where you can get at it. attempt to pry the bolt up while using a wrench to loosen the bolt. a good square grip with vise grips might also be soemthing to try. if this doesnt work, use very low heat on the bolt and pry the bolt upwards(i think i read someone did this in this post.). without melting through the airbox, you want to melt the nut into the plastic just enough to free the bolt. make sure to let everything cool down and even use ice before attempting to turn.

another alternative- drill thru the plastic and into the nut BUT NOT THRU THE NUT with a 1/16"-ish drill, put the shank of the drill in the hole to lock the nut in place and loosen the bolt. a roll pin or even super glue can be put into the hole for a permanent fix. if you use super glue, make sure to spin the nut to spread the glue around inside. a neat job with the super glue might make the hole invisible.

did you leave the factory ram air set up on?
nope,i dont like the looks of the half-box setup. right now the filter is free hanging, but not in a bad way. i slapped it around a bit, called it bad names and took it out for a rough ride. it seems ok. it doesnt move far or pull on any wires. the mounting plate for the factory setup is right below it. the filter will only go down about a 1/4" before hitting this plate. i might pull the plate to clean up the engine bay. i have read about rough idle with this and similar setups due to the a/c fan. it has only been 85-90 degrees up here with 80% humidty. i can go another 5-10 degrees before i get hot and use the a/c. i think i will buy a shield and figure out a way to cleanly fab some support for the filter and sheild.

i left it on for now,ust to use the functionality of the cool air. Im not overly concerned with the visual aspect of my engine yet, just because i havent done much else. I plan on fabricating a heat shield that uses just the very front piece of the air box (the raim air piece). I'll take pics when im done.

i just did this mod and its freaking awesome! lol you can so hear the spooling and the blow off alot clearer.

my bolts holding the stock box came out no problem (thank god)

also to solve the issue of the filter free floating, i used 1 heavy duty black zip tip. i tied down the bottom hole of the maf sensor flag to a bracket near by and i put some adhehsive backing foam in the ram air so the filter rest on foam and not plastic. I check it already day just to make sure everything is good and it is so :).

Thanks guys!

i just did this mod and its freaking awesome! lol you can so hear the spooling and the blow off alot clearer.

my bolts holding the stock box came out no problem (thank god)

also to solve the issue of the filter free floating, i used 1 heavy duty black zip tip. i tied down the bottom hole of the maf sensor flag to a bracket near by and i put some adhehsive backing foam in the ram air so the filter rest on foam and not plastic. I check it already day just to make sure everything is good and it is so :).

Thanks guys!

Black zip tie...It's same like me!! I had same idea(until I got K&N intake).

Sorry for bumping this thread, but what RPM do you guys hear the Spool & BOV? The youtube video in the first page was at around 2k, but I installed mine and I can't hear it til past 3k and gunning it. Is that a symptom of boost leak?

Plus, it's not really loud. Idk, maybe I'm deaf? LoL?!?

Also depends on what gear your in, and what type of filter you used? Do you also have exhaust and how loud is that?

I just did this cheap mod just to try it out. Everything is stock except for the $24 air filter. :-P

spinning bolts- i got lucky and my bolts broke free before the nuts inside. this is not some factory conspiracy, just poor manufacturing. the bolts are over-tightened at the factory or the design stinks. you can chose.

work around- if you cant get the nut to catch, you will need to re-bond the nut to the plastic. take the airbox out of the car where you can get at it. attempt to pry the bolt up while using a wrench to loosen the bolt. a good square grip with vise grips might also be soemthing to try. if this doesnt work, use very low heat on the bolt and pry the bolt upwards(i think i read someone did this in this post.). without melting through the airbox, you want to melt the nut into the plastic just enough to free the bolt. make sure to let everything cool down and even use ice before attempting to turn.

another alternative- drill thru the plastic and into the nut BUT NOT THRU THE NUT with a 1/16"-ish drill, put the shank of the drill in the hole to lock the nut in place and loosen the bolt. a roll pin or even super glue can be put into the hole for a permanent fix. if you use super glue, make sure to spin the nut to spread the glue around inside. a neat job with the super glue might make the hole invisible.

I ended up hacking, slashing, digging and cursing to get at the nut with pliers from the side. But now I got my K&N Typhoon on, and it sounds magical.

I ended up hacking, slashing, digging and cursing to get at the nut with pliers from the side. But now I got my K&N Typhoon on, and it sounds magical.

I used an electric drill hooked up to the 10mm socket and spun the hell out of those bolts while pulling and the little metal retainers finally came out. This way I can go back to stock since I did not damage the airbox visibly.

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu275/irmerm/HPIM3025-small.jpg

This I am doing on the weekend. Should be my good along with my custom catback being made next week.

Also noticed that the sound also depends on your throttle. Just drove today and noticed it more. I may have expected too much for a cheap mod at first, but this does the job well enough to meet your expectations. :thumbup:

Also noticed that the sound also depends on your throttle. Just drove today and noticed it more. I may have expected too much for a cheap mod at first, but this does the job well enough to meet your expectations. :thumbup:
I think a lot of it also depends on the filter element being used. The thicker the element, the less sounds will come through there. My K&N seems like it's pretty damn lound. I can hear it at part throttle even with the windows up. WOT and windows down it seems like that's all I hear. Also, I read that an exhaust will drown out a lot of the sound and my exhaust is stock (for now, bwahahaha)

Well yeah, I hear the filter more than my stock exhaust! LOL

did it and love it. the butt dyno says accel is smoother up high.

:amen:

Thanks sooooo much LI for the write-up. I just got back upstairs from installing my new K&N Cone Filter, and I must say :

'GODDAMN! - I absolutely love it!"

Headed out to drive around with it now, but when I get home (or tomorrow) I'll post pictures of the install as well as a couple things I learned through the process. I think I have a "cleaner" way of explaining a couple things - but mainly the "stubborn bolts".
Cheers,
Ryan

If it hasn't been mentioned before, it works better if you remove the rubber gasket that comes off the MAF and just attach the cone to the MAF. If it slides off (like mine did with and without the gasket) just rough it up with some 1000 grit or a green pad and it will stick just fine. No issues since then.

I have an AEM dryflow and I have to say the change is hardly noticeable at first. After about 100 miles of driving it did get noticeably louder, but still very quiet compared to the VIII's and IX's. I have also driven my friend's X with a harmon motive kit and it is also very quiet.

I guess I am still comparing it to my old car. When you stepped on the gas, all you heard was a biggie turbo spool.

If it hasn't been mentioned before, it works better if you remove the rubber gasket that comes off the MAF and just attach the cone to the MAF. If it slides off (like mine did with and without the gasket) just rough it up with some 1000 grit or a green pad and it will stick just fine. No issues since then.

I have an AEM dryflow and I have to say the change is hardly noticeable at first. After about 100 miles of driving it did get noticeably louder, but still very quiet compared to the VIII's and IX's. I have also driven my friend's X with a harmon motive kit and it is also very quiet.

I guess I am still comparing it to my old car. When you stepped on the gas, all you heard was a biggie turbo spool.

i'm having one hell of a time getting my new K&N to stay on. which part did you rough up? i've got a double gasket on there and some currogated metal thing and it still fell off on the ride back from downtown. f'ing pissing me off. :mad: I was thinking of trying some padded spacer between the MAF and the K&N, but am a little afraid if the intake falls off, it could suck that padding shit into the engine....

Rough it up where you attach the filter. Basically the entire area where the rubber gasket was and do not include the rubber gasket.

Roughing it up just gives some friction so it wont slide off. The original post really needs to be re-written....

Rough it up where you attach the filter. Basically the entire area where the rubber gasket was and do not include the rubber gasket.

Roughing it up just gives some friction so it wont slide off. The original post really needs to be re-written....

so i should rough up the stock MAF plastic piece? and just for reference, what did you use to do it ?

so i should rough up the stock MAF plastic piece? and just for reference, what did you use to do it ?

Yes you will rough up the MAF on the lip where you attach the filter. The same location which had the rubber gasket.

I used a 1000 grit sandpaper, but you can easily use a green scrub pad. The rougher you make it, the more friction it will provide to stop it from sliding off. I just did a few quick twists of the sand paper around the MAF and it worked just fine...

Yes you will rough up the MAF on the lip where you attach the filter. The same location which had the rubber gasket.

I used a 1000 grit sandpaper, but you can easily use a green scrub pad. The rougher you make it, the more friction it will provide to stop it from sliding off. I just did a few quick twists of the sand paper around the MAF and it worked just fine...

sweet, thanks ... going to try that right now. i used to skateboard, so fortunately for me, i have grip tape (essentially sandpaper) all over the place.

i'll post back to let you know it was successful. :)

Sure thing bro, should only take a minute or two. Mine has never slipped since....

Sure thing bro, should only take a minute or two. Mine has never slipped since....

This definitely needs to be in the write-up! I used a green brillo pad actually, and in addition used a box cutter to slice the MAF up a little to make it a rougher connection. Just drove about 20 miles or so (bumpy as shit at times) and it didn't budge! Thank god (or you cornercarver). Thanks again. This is a MUST for the K&N. I went through two different clamps, tried spacing it with rubber pad, and even bought some plumbing supplies to make it clamp better - but alas, it's only roughening up the MAF that will make it work. Easy, no cost...

If there's oil on the hole of the filter where you clamp the MAF housing, just wipe it off with a clean cloth damped with denatured alcohol to get rid of the oil, then let it dry for ~3 mins. Mined slipped like somebody lubed it with KJ jelly.

If there's oil on the hole of the filter where you clamp the MAF housing, just wipe it off with a clean cloth damped with denatured alcohol to get rid of the oil, then let it dry for ~3 mins. Mined slipped like somebody lubed it with KJ jelly.

Yeah, I definitely had some serious oil in that mother. Making the connection rough worked awesome. Time will tell if it's a full solution (but it sure sounds like it according to cornercarver). If not... I'll use alc to get that oil out.

If there's oil on the hole of the filter where you clamp the MAF housing, just wipe it off with a clean cloth damped with denatured alcohol to get rid of the oil, then let it dry for ~3 mins. Mined slipped like somebody lubed it with KJ jelly.


Did this and it still came off. There just isn't that much for the filter to clamp on which is why I improvised.

There isn't any harm in roughing it up and I recommend it over using the rubber gasket suggested in the original writeup.

I had the same problem when I switched from my spectre filter to K&N, this isn't going to be much use for most of you though. Anyway the way I got around the slipping was by buying a filter with a 4in. inlet, instead of a 3in. I then used the couplers from the spectre to size it down to fit, for some reason it grabs better with the spectre stuff.

Did this and it still came off. There just isn't that much for the filter to clamp on which is why I improvised.

There isn't any harm in roughing it up and I recommend it over using the rubber gasket suggested in the original writeup.

Whatever works, right? :D

Did this and it still came off. There just isn't that much for the filter to clamp on which is why I improvised.

There isn't any harm in roughing it up and I recommend it over using the rubber gasket suggested in the original writeup.

the official PDF how-to says that you don't need that gasket, but you should keep it with the factory air box so if you ever want to go back, it's right there. i did that from the get-go. your realization to rough up the MAF was the best solution. like i said, i tried all sorts of things and that was the only thing that's worked. i'll let you know if that changes, but hopefully not.

one thing i'm a little unclear on is whether or not i truly need a heat shield around the new intake. i've been reading mixed sides of the story and can't determine if it's really necessary. the other thing is that i'll be driving in the mountains (snow and water) ALOT and want to prevent as much moisture as possible from my intake. i kept the front portion of the factory intake to help with this as well as to help keep the K&N in place. it still moves around a little i'm sure, but for the most part - not enough to make noise or rub anything. biggest concern is the moisture i guess. the heat issue is a 2 sided blade it seems. anyone have true knowledge on this?

You're not going to be able to keep it that much cooler by putting up a shield. The shield is mostly for blocking the interference from the A/C fan kicking on and causing turbulence. With you in the mountains all the time your intake temps at the MAF will be considerable lower than when you are stuck in traffic. I remember reading 130 deg at the MAF on a warm summer day sitting at a stoplight, then 20 deg above ambient when I was moving. I also had the stock air guide.

If you don't like it moving around, you can just pick up some bar stock from a hardware store and make you own bracket. I made one for my VIII and it worked perfectly. I used a thinner piece of metal which allowed the intake move slightly with engine movement, but still kept the intake from rubbing on anything. I just attached the bracket to an existing bolt in the engine bay near the intake.

You're not going to be able to keep it that much cooler by putting up a shield. The shield is mostly for blocking the interference from the A/C fan kicking on and causing turbulence. With you in the mountains all the time your intake temps at the MAF will be considerable lower than when you are stuck in traffic. I remember reading 130 deg at the MAF on a warm summer day sitting at a stoplight, then 20 deg above ambient when I was moving. I also had the stock air guide.

If you don't like it moving around, you can just pick up some bar stock from a hardware store and make you own bracket. I made one for my VIII and it worked perfectly. I used a thinner piece of metal which allowed the intake move slightly with engine movement, but still kept the intake from rubbing on anything. I just attached the bracket to an existing bolt in the engine bay near the intake.

yea, i'm probably not going to put a shield on. if anything goes wrong - i'll just put it back to stock and claim on my warranty (another 7 years fully covered). :)

As for the movement - it doesn't bother me or make any noises, so as long as it doesn't cause problems i'm going to leave that as well.

eventually the movement will rub a hole in your filter. You should at least put some padding on the half of the stock airbox to prevent damage to the filter...

eventually the movement will rub a hole in your filter. You should at least put some padding on the half of the stock airbox to prevent damage to the filter...

cool. i'll rig something up.

has anyone ever had problems with rain getting in through the hood openings / grilles and getting sucked into the now exposed air filter?

I had the AMS short ram intake for about 15 months, and have had the little sheets of metal under the vents out for the entire time as well and never had any problems, this is living in Colorado for about a year of that, and 3 months in California.

has anyone ever had problems with rain getting in through the hood openings / grilles and getting sucked into the now exposed air filter?

The vent is not over the filter, so nothing will spill onto it. Also, the vents have a shield under them, so not much water drips down there to begin with.

I had the AMS short ram intake for about 15 months, and have had the little sheets of metal under the vents out for the entire time as well and never had any problems, this is living in Colorado for about a year of that, and 3 months in California.


The vent is not over the filter, so nothing will spill onto it. Also, the vents have a shield under them, so not much water drips down there to begin with.

Thanks guys - just wanted to double check. Thought that might be the case, but it never hurts to just ask.

Update -
So it's been 4 1/5 months now, never had any issues with filter staying on or rattling around with mine. But last night, went WOT to get on the highway and bam..... limp mode. This lasted entire way home and stopping by the atm machine as well. Also would not idle down at normal RPMs. And yes, I did the pumping the clutch technique, this was a smooth idle, just at 2k. Forgot the actual code # but it was related to MAF. After letting it sit for a while, started her back up and she seemed to be running normal. Cleared the code and put my stock airbox back in, don't want to take any chances.

What size filter did you guys get for this?

What size filter did you guys get for this?

it's any 3" inlet type. i got the K&N (forgot the part number).

If you get the universal ones, it comes with little rubber adapters to fit various sizes....

Update -
So it's been 4 1/5 months now, never had any issues with filter staying on or rattling around with mine. But last night, went WOT to get on the highway and bam..... limp mode. This lasted entire way home and stopping by the atm machine as well. Also would not idle down at normal RPMs. And yes, I did the pumping the clutch technique, this was a smooth idle, just at 2k. Forgot the actual code # but it was related to MAF. After letting it sit for a while, started her back up and she seemed to be running normal. Cleared the code and put my stock airbox back in, don't want to take any chances.
That is the MAP plausibility code. Just have to reset it. One of your limit tables is off. I have seen this many times

it wouldnt hurt to leave the cone filter on!

i have different question, didn't want to start separate tread so here it goes:
i did filter mod and after that i got it tuned, everything is ok no problems. but here comes the time that filter got dirty and i have to replace it (doesn't want to wash it )
-filter that i used was 6 3/4 x 6 in base tappering to 4 3/4

so now do i need to find one with exact dimensions since i got my car tuned for it ??
thanks in advance.

i wouldnt think it would make much difference if you just get another type of cone filter

yeah that's what im thinking too, but im just worried if it's gonna change my afr. don't have wideband yet.

if you aren't changing the size of the inlet pipe i can't see how a different filter would make that big of a difference.

inlet shouldn't change afr since its after maf sensor. heard stuff before maf changes afr.

That statement isn't entirely true. Anything you change on the inlet side can affect your afr. Just because your maf doesn't see it doesn't mean that it wont affect how well the fuel is burning.

To the OP, as long as you have a filter with the same air flow and restriction and don't go too much different then the one you tuned with you will be fine.

I tried this mod this weekend. It ended up with a 15 minute job taking 90 minutes and I finally gave up. How did things go so wrong, you ask? Well one of the bolts that holds the back section of the stock airbox to the MAF housing could not be loosened. The bolt is screwed into a threaded metal insert in the plastic airbox flange and the insert was spinning inside the plastic. I even cut an area around the insert to get a pair of pliers on it, but the metal is so crummy that it just shredded itself in the plier grips. I had plans to go out, so I had to put it all back together with the stock parts.

Ahhh the dreaded spinning bolt. Happened to me and I gave up completely so I just ordered a new intake altogether and am going to cut the sucker off, or just order a new MAF housing from JNZ..blegh..more $$

Ahhh the dreaded spinning bolt. Happened to me and I gave up completely so I just ordered a new intake altogether and am going to cut the sucker off, or just order a new MAF housing from JNZ..blegh..more $$

AMS intake and a few others come with their own maf housing, guess it's a bit too late for you but ya. My ETS intake retains the stock MAF housing so I guess I lucked out with the bolts :)

I tried this mod this weekend. It ended up with a 15 minute job taking 90 minutes and I finally gave up. How did things go so wrong, you ask? Well one of the bolts that holds the back section of the stock airbox to the MAF housing could not be loosened. The bolt is screwed into a threaded metal insert in the plastic airbox flange and the insert was spinning inside the plastic. I even cut an area around the insert to get a pair of pliers on it, but the metal is so crummy that it just shredded itself in the plier grips. I had plans to go out, so I had to put it all back together with the stock parts.

i had the same problem. got fed up and just yanked the bitch off. the metal threads came with the bolt and gouged a hole in the plastic - but still came off "clean" for an aftermarked intake. only problem now is when i tried to put it back on when i got my car services (to avoid warranty questions/issues) - i wasn't able to because of that bolt. i'm going to rig something up in case it ever comes into question with a warranty item - but who knows. hopefully mitsubishi aren't completely dicks about it (if it ever happens that is).

Ahhh the dreaded spinning bolt. Happened to me and I gave up completely so I just ordered a new intake altogether and am going to cut the sucker off, or just order a new MAF housing from JNZ..blegh..more $$

Yeah I found the OEM filter box for $65 online (called an intake cover by the part store). I was thinking of getting one to keep an OEM spare and then just cutting the original one apart.

Maybe someone here would sell their OEM filter box for less...

so i did this mod today and you can hear the diff big time...Also i went with the longer air filter just to get more air. (GO BIG OR GO HOME LOL) Also the filter is snugly tight with the front airbox cover...i do have an HKs ssqv3 bov VTA and when redline in it i did not stall out or have any problems :)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/baseballplayer422/2010-06-062013_20_48.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/baseballplayer422/2010-06-062013_20_59.jpg

there is one in evo m that he was able to install the cone inside the stock box. so it's like aem.

hey do you have a link to this one. can't find it on the search.

thanks:D

there is one in evo m that he was able to install the cone inside the stock box. so it's like aem.

been looking all over for this, saw it a while ago, should've book marked it.

i did this too, and since im running single exhaust i took my extra exhaust hanger and slid it over the 2 protruding "fingers" under that filter so it didnt rattle

I'm thinking that I may have picked one that was too big. I put it on, did everything as per instructions, and the flashed cobb ots map stg II + SF 93 oct. Now i got a code: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1).

Anybody else have this issue?

i think this is usually the code guys see when they go to a testpipe, but I'll let a pro chime in. I dont think you could put a filter on thats too big, as long as it fits. One thing to check would be that your MAF harness did not come undone while you were poking around down there.

Thanks man, I do in fact have a test pipe on, but strangely it didnt pop up until after this intake mod. Oh well, im gonna be calling ams and let them do one of their magical E-Tunes on it.

Step 10. Now go get your car tuned so you don't run like shit.

Everyone who does this make sure that the filter isn't resting on that stud that sits right below the intake filter. Trust me.

Everyone who does this make sure that the filter isn't resting on that stud that sits right below the intake filter. Trust me.

why exactly is that? just curious.
i actually left the front part of the stock intake funnel and let it rest on there - no problems so far (and I figure i will help funnel a little more cold air from the front of the car directly to the filter.

why exactly is that? just curious.
i actually left the front part of the stock intake funnel and let it rest on there - no problems so far (and I figure i will help funnel a little more cold air from the front of the car directly to the filter.

He got a big hole in his filter and he beleives it was attributed to it resting on that piece.

He got a big hole in his filter and he beleives it was attributed to it resting on that piece.

what i figured, but thought i'd see if there was something else i wasn't thinking of...

what i figured, but thought i'd see if there was something else i wasn't thinking of...

Ill send you a pic of intake on fb for you.

lol

Thanks for the write up and all the details. Just did this yesterday, today during my lunch break, going to home depot to find something to hold the cone in place. It hasn't loosened but I am just a little nervous about it being able to shift around.

I did keep the front portion (in front of the pannel filter) of the factory intake in place.

..^^ this is exactly what i did too..including the home depot bracket lol but i'm going to the muffler shop and get a scrap metal to make a good bracket!!
best 20$ spent...love the stock BOV:rock:

Just did this as well, literally took all of 5 minutes w/ a wrench and a butter knife lol, I lacked finding my tools and I kept half the box on for support so I didn't need the Phillips. Haven't driven it yet, going to get tint slapped on her in a minute, so ill update my opinion in a minute.

Its amazing how much you can hear the bov now, when I first gassed it, I heard something loud and my first thought was "oh shit the cone fell off"lol then a split second later I realized all was good, I just didn't expect it to be that much louder with just a cone.
Crazy

Driving around town I don't know if its just in my mind... but I feel like there's a huge difference in the way it drives, it feels a lot smoother, I don't want to say it has more power but the acceleration feels different to me, I really don't know for a fact what has changed, if anything, but just personally it feels a whole lot different.

Driving around town I don't know if its just in my mind... but I feel like there's a huge difference in the way it drives, it feels a lot smoother, I don't want to say it has more power but the acceleration feels different to me, I really don't know for a fact what has changed, if anything, but just personally it feels a whole lot different.

The cone filter leans the car a tad, depending on what year you have. 2010 are leaner, that 2008s.

I have a 2008 gsr. Hey one thing I wanted to mention from my experience with these aftermarket filters since everyone keeps mentioning the k&n, I personally used the spectre filter which is working fine and fits really tight, but at one time I put a k&n cone on my 03 350z and after that I started having problems, at idle it would bog down like crazy every time the fan kicked on, it would also make the car violently shake at idle, 2 times it actually died.
Just from my personal experience, I will never use a k&n filter again, I took it off and put a random advanced auto parts filter on and it was back to a normal car again.
Today when I picked up the cone, I made sure not to get a k&n, I just can't trust it after what I went thorough.

I have a 2008 gsr. Hey one thing I wanted to mention from my experience with these aftermarket filters since everyone keeps mentioning the k&n, I personally used the spectre filter which is working fine and fits really tight, but at one time I put a k&n cone on my 03 350z and after that I started having problems, at idle it would bog down like crazy every time the fan kicked on, it would also make the car violently shake at idle, 2 times it actually died.
Just from my personal experience, I will never use a k&n filter again, I took it off and put a random advanced auto parts filter on and it was back to a normal car again.
Today when I picked up the cone, I made sure not to get a k&n, I just can't trust it after what I went thorough.

Well Evos arent 350s lol. I have a K&N filter because of my ETS intake, I washed the oil off and gave it a very light coat! I love it!

Well I know that lol, but it still baffles me how a k&n completely screwed with my car

Well I know that lol, but it still baffles me how a k&n completely screwed with my car

Cause its a Nissan ;)

I personally had problems with my K+N in my 2009 A5, The cone was over-oiled (I guess) and it screwed with the MAF Sensor, causing it to bog, flutter etc. In the interest of not voiding the awesome warranty I got for my Evo-- Will this Intake bit be enough to bust it?

I personally had problems with my K+N in my 2009 A5, The cone was over-oiled (I guess) and it screwed with the MAF Sensor, causing it to bog, flutter etc. In the interest of not voiding the awesome warranty I got for my Evo-- Will this Intake bit be enough to bust it?

Ask your stearlership first. Mine is pretty chill about most stuff, Intake, UICP, Exhaust, but others not so much.

That's why you keep the stock box and filter, pop it back on if you have to see the dealership... that's my plan

That's why you keep the stock box and filter, pop it back on if you have to see the dealership... that's my plan

good luck with the screws.... has anyone actually gotten it off without ruining it?

good luck with the screws.... has anyone actually gotten it off without ruining it?

This guy! :godance:

This guy! :godance:

nice... i stripped the shit out of that one bolt.

nice... i stripped the shit out of that one bolt.

Well I took my whole intake out, so I was careful.

Sorry for the noob question but can you type out UICP?

I need to learn the acronyms -.-

Sorry for the noob question but can you type out UICP?

I need to learn the acronyms -.-

upper intercooler pipe

I didn't have any problem with my screws, both of them came out pretty easy

I didn't have any problem with my screws, both of them came out pretty easy

congrats... there are many of us where it didn't turn out as well.

Awesome thanks---- If I got the Cobb hardpipe kit, i'm still cool on warranty yea?

good luck with the screws.... has anyone actually gotten it off without ruining it?

yup i did...i used an adjustable wrench...twisted it once then everything just came out using my fingers...:godance:

Awesome thanks---- If I got the Cobb hardpipe kit, i'm still cool on warranty yea?

Depends. Ask the stealership.

Just did this as well, literally took all of 5 minutes w/ a wrench and a butter knife lol, I lacked finding my tools and I kept half the box on for support so I didn't need the Phillips. Haven't driven it yet, going to get tint slapped on her in a minute, so ill update my opinion in a minute.


did you put something for the filter to rest onto? before i got my bracket the filter was laying on the front part of the box...i'm afraid it might cause some damage so i laid a soft kinda like soft cloth with a double sided tape to catch the cone tip,,,

How important is the heat shield? Is it a necessity?

did you put something for the filter to rest onto? before i got my bracket the filter was laying on the front part of the box...i'm afraid it might cause some damage so i laid a soft kinda like soft cloth with a double sided tape to catch the cone tip,,,

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=174241&postcount=105


This was my fix for it, I placed the insulation pieces in 3 spots... 2 on the bottom seperated so that the filter sits in there nicely, and 1 spot on the top to wedge it in there. If that makes sense.

My friend has no heat shield yet and when the fan turns on his idle gets choppy

How important is the heat shield? Is it a necessity?

I been one of the lucky ones, never had issues without a heat shield, just have the stock funnel front portion. About 50k miles now....

Okay guys thanks a lot. I could always make one or have on fabricated. I've read this thread twice now but I'm still undecided as to which filter to buy. Are the K&N Filters fine? Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

^^^ Kn drop in works great stock airbox is nice

You mean the panel filter? I wanted to go with a cone.. I wonder if it's better just to go with a CAI and be done of it.. The posts about the filters coming off and rattling make me nervous haha

i believe this will be my first mod once i hit 3k+ oil change

I just did this a week ago, took 20 mins if that. Slightly better fuel economy and the car seems to run a little better but nothing to write home about.


Im about to buy an AP and was wondering what map to run with just the cone filter and everything else stock? Think stage1+ aem filter will work? It was mentioned earlier in this thread (8th pg I think) but I couldnt find anything else on it. Im a noob when it comes to the AP ha. Thanks!