Im sure its nothing, but I wanted to share.

I live in ATL and I bought my GSR about 4-5 months ago, so I had it in spring/summer time since ive owned the car. For the most part the gear box was pretty smooth, its an evo so I dont expect it to be like butter cause its a sports car.. but now we are getting into fall/autum and the gear box feels more abresive and im sure its due to the cold weather starting, I hvent grinded a gear recently, I was protuned and watched the whole time so the tuner didnt mis shift or anything of that nature.... which makes me think its getting more notchy sue to the cold weather.

I bought my GSR new, and I havent done a trans change. You think its getting to that time?


shifter mods are - TWM STS, AMS - console,gate,trans bushings. and shift knob.

mileage?

just hit 11K this morning

If I'm not mistaken, the interval for the fluid is normally 15k miles. Since your car has some mods, one could argue that maintenance intervals shrink a bit. So, I'd say it's likely that the fluid is getting closer to needing to be replaced. Wouldn't hurt to do it now, but I wouldn't say that you have to do it like "right now".

im sure there is some metal shavings in there, I did a proper break-in as well..

so would you agree that its most likely the cold weather starting?

Sorry, it's hard for me to keep the "colder weather" thing in mind, as it's like 90 something degrees here every day. I think the colder weather and the age of the fluid are combining for a different feel. Start thinking about changing the fluid and that will probably yield some improvement. I think there's a thread about the different fluids available, but I don't have the will to search for it right now. Maybe the crowd can suggest what fluid works best during the colder months.

ive done PLENTY of reading, they would recommend a thinner fluid cause it heats up faster.

I have some in the garage to... :D

ill post up with results.

thanks

Yea I'd say it's definitely the colder weather. I'm starting to notice it more on mine too. One way to know for sure if its temperature related is to drive it around for awhile, wait for it to heat up, and see if it persists :) Mine will usually improve after 10 - 15min of driving. Just shift slowly until the fluid heats up...gives the synchros more time

i bought my evo in ATL last year in June and had it there for about a year. It was notchy until I got the trans fluid changed. Do that. The break in causes some build up. It's night and day after a flush.

any particular tranny fluid to be used? or the basic OEM one is fine?

yea im in tn and mine gets real notchy during the winter and have had it since march 08

I'm in NY, it's been a hot summer and recently it has gotten considerably colder.. My shifts are getting notchy again also. Gotta let her warm up more & take it easy when starting off now -- AND I am running straight MTL fluid..

im going straight top mt 90 should improve shifting radically

im going straight top mt 90 should improve shifting radically

MT90 is thicker/heavier than stock weight .. if anything, use the cocktail 2/3 MTL, 1/3 MT90

yea, redline cocktail ftw.

Removing the clutch restrictor pill on mine eliminated ALL of my 2nd and 3rd gear notchiness. Mine was terrible even with fluid changes, even after getting over 8k miles. Free mod, give it a try.

Removing the clutch restrictor pill on mine eliminated ALL of my 2nd and 3rd gear notchiness. Mine was terrible even with fluid changes, even after getting over 8k miles. Free mod, give it a try.


I've heard talk of removing the restrictor pill causing early breakage of the CMC, no?

Removing the clutch restrictor pill on mine eliminated ALL of my 2nd and 3rd gear notchiness. Mine was terrible even with fluid changes, even after getting over 8k miles. Free mod, give it a try.

I've heard talk of removing the restrictor pill causing early breakage of the CMC, no?

my understanding of removing the restrictor pill is that it will allow you to control the engagement of the clutch more. So if you don't know how to drive stick, you can "hurt" the clutch/drivetrain more than you would with the pill. Therefore if you don't know how to drive stick properly, don't remove the restrictor pill.

my understanding of removing the restrictor pill is that it will allow you to control the engagement of the clutch more. So if you don't know how to drive stick, you can "hurt" the clutch/drivetrain more than you would with the pill. Therefore if you don't know how to drive stick properly, don't remove the restrictor pill.

The only way you can hurt your clutch/drivetrain is by dumping the clutch, which shouldn't be done with or without the pill. It is there to protect the drivetrain from sudden engagements, aka. dumping the clutch. It is no harder/easier to drive without the pill in place. The only difference I noticed was it engaged at the same distance from the floor all the time, every time.

I've heard talk of removing the restrictor pill causing early breakage of the CMC, no?

I have never heard of that. CMC's USUALLY go out due to abusing the stock clutch or installing aftermarket clutches without upgrading the CMC...usually. :peepwall: