Hope this helps :shades: doing this without a guide isn't much fun :omg:

This is great man, thanks a lot for putting it together and sharing :)

thanks for the write up! thought it was going to be pretty hard, but doesn't look to bad.

i see its even easier when you have the whole motor out. =D

If your flexible and not a fat ass like me it should be pretty cake.

Ok Hollywood your writeup was better than mine haha.

Bryan

Great just what I needed. Thanks for the write up

funny. magnus says no cutting.

funny. magnus says no cutting.

there description is a tad deceiving after seeing the write up.

We engineered a solution that anyone can install with simple tools that everyone has in their garage.

funny. magnus says no cutting.

yea, this is a little more in depth than a direct bolt on...but it will get the job done right the first time.

The SSP one slowed up my build...probably would have the car started by now if I didn't have to wait for the new gasket, but I didn't want to wait any longer on the motor build, so I opted to buy a magnus from a local who had it sitting at his house...Hollywood's write up looks solid.

I think SSP is a solid company and I don't see why their product wouldn't work, but I just can't wait any longer on their stuff, magnus is going in now.

there description is a tad deceiving after seeing the write up.

It would appear that way...

PS. This is just an Evo 9 MC designed to work on the X...we looked at an Evo 9 MC today at my shop on an Evo 9 of course :)

Thank you sir. I just ordered 2 sets yesterday. It's just about right time.

It would appear that way...

PS. This is just an Evo 9 MC designed to work on the X...we looked at an Evo 9 MC today at my shop on an Evo 9 of course :)
mitsu should have just used the 9's in the 1st place. its already mass produced.. sigh at least we have 2 solutions to choose from now. competition in a market place is good for the consumer.

thanks for the write up holly

I just ordered 2 set yesterday.
for double clutching?

^^ don't to know that twin clutch need double CMC? Hahaha. I wish lol. Just incase one went bad. I don't want to wait a mounth for a replacement ;)

Hmmm, I suppose, but honestly, this should never ever go bad.

^^ don't to know that twin clutch need double CMC? Hahaha. I wish lol. Just incase one went bad. I don't want to wait a mounth for a replacement ;)

Hmmm, I suppose, but honestly, this should never ever go bad.

There is no way in hell this one will go bad, its f-ing solid

There is no way in hell this one will go bad, its f-ing solid
that was said before about a CMC solution... jus sayin

that was said before about a CMC solution... jus sayin

I know what you are saying, but this is re-using existing tech that has never had problems, not something designed completely new.

There is no way in hell this one will go bad, its f-ing solid

Where have I heard that before.............

I know what you are saying, but this is re-using existing tech that has never had problems, not something designed completely new.

Can you blame some of us for our pessimism?

Can you blame some of us for our pessimism?

Are you kidding me? LOL, I have went through 2 SSP installs already, so no I can't haha.

But how many horror stories have you heard about the DG motors MC conversion?

My guess is zero..the price for install was worse but it works flawlessly.

This is basically the same thing, just more refined.

You bastard. We tried doing this a few days ago and it was epic fail, could have used a write up Also didn't help something was wrong out of our control, but Magnus was amazing and took care of it. The only thing I can say is CHECK, before trying to install, which CMC they sent, there are 2 versions. One uses one set of holes, the other uses the other. Mine was assembled on the wrong holes, making it contact the brake booster and 6 hours later and too late to finish the work we finally realized why, changed the holes it was mounted to and it fit like a glove. 2 cmcs Magnus use, 2 ways to mount. So check which one and orientation.

Are you kidding me? LOL, I have went through 2 SSP installs already, so no I can't haha.

But how many horror stories have you heard about the DG motors MC conversion?

My guess is zero..the price for install was worse but it works flawlessly.

This is basically the same thing, just more refined.


Yeah, I guess ............. I would've only bought one anyway, but I can see why some would buy two, even though it beats all common sense.

Yeah, I guess ............. I would've only bought one anyway, but I can see why some would buy two, even though it beats all common sense.

Thankfully I received a free SSP one as I helped test fit it, so I am only out labor, but I just want it to work, don't care who I use anymore.

Yeah, I guess ............. I would've only bought one anyway, but I can see why some would buy two, even though it beats all common sense.
thought i already covered this...
"granny shifting and not double clutching like you should"
you need 2 to double clutch
http://img.cineclub.com/images/2009/04/fast-and-furious-4-2.jpg

thought i already covered this...
"granny shifting and not double clutching like you should"
you need 2 to double clutch
http://img.cineclub.com/images/2009/04/fast-and-furious-4-2.jpg

Yes, I see you did, but I like going off on tangents......you got a problem? :waiting:

Yes, I see you did, but I like going off on tangents......you got a problem? :waiting:
:p we could just referring to hollywood as "holly" till it sticks

LOL.

I don't like calling him holly, so I'll just call him wood.

There is no way in hell this one will go bad, its f-ing solid

I got to play with the Prototype at Marcos shop when I was there. The prototype was UBER solid.

Are you kidding me? LOL, I have went through 2 SSP installs already, so no I can't haha.

But how many horror stories have you heard about the DG motors MC conversion?

My guess is zero..the price for install was worse but it works flawlessly.

This is basically the same thing, just more refined.

I seriously doubt this thing will ever fail, plus the hardest part is the bracket which is already done, so all you would ever have to do is just the cylinder.

thought i already covered this...
"granny shifting and not double clutching like you should"
you need 2 to double clutch
http://img.cineclub.com/images/2009/04/fast-and-furious-4-2.jpg

What the hell does this mean anyways?

I don't like calling him holly, so I'll just call him wood.

What about Woody?

Thanks Woody! Great write up!

whats with changing the MC?? , my stock MC, seems to work perfectly,even though i have an aftermarket clutch(ACT), and all the guys i know who have evo x didnt have an MC failing!

did anyone had MC fail on their X's , or ppl are just changin it as a precausion measure in case the stock MC might fail someday?!!!

still why plasitc mitsu?

still why plasitc mitsu?
maybe it aint failing as ppl say or predict

whats with changing the MC?? , my stock MC, seems to work perfectly,even though i have an aftermarket clutch(ACT), and all the guys i know who have evo x didnt have an MC failing!

did anyone had MC fail on their X's , or ppl are just changin it as a precausion measure in case the stock MC might fail someday?!!!

Mine failed. Want the pics? Want the bill for over $800 in expenses, parts, travel, ect? Mitsu was cheap. Exedy Stg1 and mine failed. I blame some on Exedy as it seems like they have a higher failure rate...

still why plasitc mitsu?

Mine failed. Want the pics? Want the bill for over $800 in expenses, parts, travel, ect? Mitsu was cheap. Exedy Stg1 and mine failed. I blame some on Exedy as it seems like they have a higher failure rate...

why did u spend 800$ , could've baught a new aftermarket MC, and installed it with less than that price , unless u didnt know initially that the MC failed or something!

generally speaking, if it aint broken dont fix it!
if one would change parts for the fear of them failing , one might end up changing almost every part and bolt in his/her car;)
EDIT: clearly ur car is modified , no wonder mitsu didnt approve any warranty claim

Fantastic write up!!! Mines on the way to my house as i write this :) , ohh and they said u dont have to cutt the heads of the bolts off u can hammer them out but cutting saves time and effort :)

why did u spend 800$ , could've baught a new aftermarket MC, and installed it with less than that price , unless u didnt know initially that the MC failed or something!

generally speaking, if it aint broken dont fix it!
if one would change parts for the fear of them failing , one might end up changing almost every part and bolt in his/her car;)
EDIT: clearly ur car is modified , no wonder mitsu didnt approve any warranty claim

One reason to just go ahead and swap it out is if your running a clutch with a HD pressure plate. At that point its not a matter of if but when. The Exedy's seem to be the worse culprits and winter will also play a big role in failures when you go to engage the clutch on a 30* or less day and POP!

Colder temps mean more viscus fluid and fragile plastic so not a good combo. Plus if your like me and work out of an unheated garage, get this shit done in the summer and when you see the guys pop them around Christmas you can smile and just feel bad for them.

Fantastic write up!!! Mines on the way to my house as i write this :) , ohh and they said u dont have to cutt the heads of the bolts off u can hammer them out but cutting saves time and effort :)

When I did the write up I attempted several differ things so that I could find the fastest most effective way a normal garage mechanic could do this. I tried the hammering and poping the spot welds with no luck. Plus to hammer from the inside out would take some mad yoga skills and the ability to apply several thousand pounds of force with a strike that has 3 inches of room.

I suggest you have a grinding tool of some sort on hand (Keep the recite so you can take it back later if not needed) just in case the hammering don't work so well. Also keep in mind where the grinding takes place is in a very narrow area that isn't easy to reach.

why did u spend 800$ , could've baught a new aftermarket MC, and installed it with less than that price , unless u didnt know initially that the MC failed or something!

generally speaking, if it aint broken dont fix it!
if one would change parts for the fear of them failing , one might end up changing almost every part and bolt in his/her car;)
EDIT: clearly ur car is modified , no wonder mitsu didnt approve any warranty claim

Well, let see it my way. I'm installing Exedy Twin HD, 02downpipe, testpipe and retune. Hopefully that I can made around 340awh, and get ready for the track days coming. I have seen many members in here have the same setup as my and their CMC went bad on the track. Now you can calculate the cost which is $500 to tow the car back to the shop, have your car down 2-4 weeks waiting for the CMC comes to you, paying for car renting for those time. How much will you end up with? By saying this, why don't do it right at first, and enjoy my track days than have to worry when the CmC go bad.

why did u spend 800$ , could've baught a new aftermarket MC, and installed it with less than that price , unless u didnt know initially that the MC failed or something!

generally speaking, if it aint broken dont fix it!
if one would change parts for the fear of them failing , one might end up changing almost every part and bolt in his/her car;)
EDIT: clearly ur car is modified , no wonder mitsu didnt approve any warranty claim


Dude, do you not read?

$800 in expenses, parts, travel, ect?I said Mitsubishi was cheap bc they made the OEM out of plastic. I don't give a fuck about warranty as That expired several thousand miles ago.

Did you not see how I wrote about the Magnus? That is what I bought and spent the money on....

You bastard. We tried doing this a few days ago and it was epic fail., could have used a write up Also didn't help something was wrong out of our control, but Magnus was amazing and took care of it. The only thing I can say is CHECK before trying to install wich CMC they sent, there are 2 versions. One uses one set of holes, the other uses the other. Minor just was assembled on the wrong holes and 6 hours later and too late to finish the work we finally realized, changed the holes it was mounted to and it fit like a glove.

Let me break it down for you...car was stranded 300+ miles away...so I had to take Amtrak to go get to it. Then I had to tow it, then I had to get it fixed, as I can't pay the towing fee of THAT. Then the part... Then the gas bringing it up. Makes sense now? And there is no "sign" that it's failing. It just goes. I hope this happens to you...

One reason to just go ahead and swap it out is if your running a clutch with a HD pressure plate. At that point its not a matter of if but when. The Exedy's seem to be the worse culprits and winter will also play a big role in failures when you go to engage the clutch on a 30* or less day and POP!

Colder temps mean more viscus fluid and fragile plastic so not a good combo. Plus if your like me and work out of an unheated garage, get this shit done in the summer and when you see the guys pop them around Christmas you can smile and just feel bad for them.

Well, let see it my way. I'm installing Exedy Twin HD, 02downpipe, testpipe and retune. Hopefully that I can made around 340awh, and get ready for the track days coming. I have seen many members in here have the same setup as my and their CMC went bad on the track. Now you can calculate the cost which is $500 to tow the car back to the shop, have your car down 2-4 weeks waiting for the CMC comes to you, paying for car renting for those time. How much will you end up with? By saying this, why don't do it right at first, and enjoy my track days than have to worry when the CmC go bad.

then it seems that the cold weather is the catalyst for this failing MC, were i come from it never drops to such temp. as u mentioned , probably this y nobody i know had issues with their MC's

Dude, do you not read?

I said Mitsubishi was cheap bc they made the OEM out of plastic. I don't give a fuck about warranty as That expired several thousand miles ago.

Did you not see how I wrote about the Magnus? That is what I bought and spent the money on.......

DUDE , when mitsu decided to make the MC plastic , they intended to make it useful for a STOCK MOTOR ON A STOCK CLUTCH SYSTEM!
dont wine about mitsu being cheap, when u go ahead and modify the car and start to break things that wasnt intended to work on more than what it was designed to work for!! and for payments n stuff i wasted 5,300 US DOLLARS to fix the shit i broke in my car , cuz i decided to modify it beyond what the car WAS INTENDED to run at! , but i didnt complain about mitsu being cheap!

back to original post

OMG so fuckin wrong. Mine went out in LA. Cold...think not.

So why the Evo IX and VIII come with metal CMC? Why 08Xs have aluminum Vc while the 10Xs have plastic? Why the VIIs come with painted door pillars while IX and X is black vinyl?

Well, back to the topic. I would like to say that fix it before it break is better than when it happen. That why we have the thing call :" Recall". If you using stock clutch then you don't need to worry. However, after market clutch? Good luck with that ;)

OMG so fuckin wrong. Mine went out in LA. Cold...think not.


seriously man go teach japanese ppl how to manufacture their cars right , it might help them alot! looooooooooooooooooooool!

So why the Evo IX and VIII come with metal CMC? Why 08Xs have aluminum Vc while the 10Xs have plastic? Why the VIIs come with painted door pillars while IX and X is black vinyl?

Well, back to the topic. I would like to say that fix it before it break is better than when it happen. That why we have the thing call :" Recall". If you using stock clutch then you don't need to worry. However, after market clutch? Good luck with that ;)
yeah true that, stock parts for stock performance

So why the Evo IX and VIII come with metal CMC? Why 08Xs have aluminum Vc while the 10Xs have plastic? Why the VIIs come with painted door pillars while IX and X is black vinyl?

Well, back to the topic. I would like to say that fix it before it break is better than when it happen. That why we have the thing call :" Recall". If you using stock clutch then you don't need to worry. However, after market clutch? Good luck with that ;)

Stock clutch running cars have also pop'd their MC's. I think for them it was a matter of spent clutch material building up causing higher pressures.

seriously man go teach japanese ppl how to manufacture their cars right , it might help them alot! looooooooooooooooooooool!

Okay again think about it...think hard it might work this time. I'm not saying it's cheap of Mitsubishi because it FAILED on my Exedy...I knew it was going to go, but they also knew clutches would be upgraded, they knew power was gonna be added, they knew it was a high pressure area. Period they know the CMC is a part of a system using high pressure fluid. And they used a superior part in prior generations so why not do that on the current? Use a previously used part? I would think it would be better for a manufacture and consumer to use a part off of a prior model if it works the same, does the same and is better in the end. Possibly less warranty claims? They know the colt the Evo has, they know people do to it. They just KNOW!! But again they wanted to cut costs and I get that but at whos expense in the end? I mean if Mitsubishi wanted us to keep stock power, why didn't they just lock the ECU or make it unflashable like Toyota?



dont wine about mitsu being cheap, when u go ahead and modify the car and start to break things that wasnt intended to work on more than what it was designed to work for!! and for payments n stuff i wasted 5,300 US DOLLARS to fix the shit i broke in my car , cuz i decided to modify it beyond what the car WAS INTENDED to run at! , but i didnt complain about mitsu being cheap!

back to original post

Get off your fuckin high of that you think you are better bc you paid for your shit. I don't care what the fuck you did. I'm still saying cheap for them to use plastic in an area known for high pressure fluid rushing thru that, and guess what previous models didn't have this issue, so in a way to "cut costs" they made one out of plastic, how is cost cutting not "being cheap"? I paid for my shit, didn't foot the bill to Mitsu so who are you to think you are better because you don't complain?

So why the Evo IX and VIII come with metal CMC? Why 08Xs have aluminum Vc while the 10Xs have plastic? Why the VIIs come with painted door pillars while IX and X is black vinyl?

Well, back to the topic. I would like to say that fix it before it break is better than when it happen. That why we have the thing call :" Recall". If you using stock clutch then you don't need to worry. However, after market clutch? Good luck with that ;)

Okay again think about it...think hard it might work this time. I'm not saying it's cheap of Mitsubishi because it FAILED on my Exedy...I knew it was going to go, but they also knew clutches would be upgraded, they knew power was gonna be added, they knew it was a high pressure area. Period they know the CMC is a part of a system using high pressure fluid. And they used a superior part in prior generations so why not do that on the current? Use a previously used part? I would think it would be better for a manufacture and consumer to use a part off of a prior model if it works the same, does the same and is better in the end. Possibly less warranty claims? They know the colt the Evo has, they know people do to it. They just KNOW!! But again they wanted to cut costs and I get that but at whos expense in the end? I mean if Mitsubishi wanted us to keep stock power, why didn't they just lock the ECU or make it unflashable like Toyota?



Get off your fuckin high of that you think you are better bc you paid for your shit. I don't care what the fuck you did. I'm still saying cheap for them to use plastic in an area known for high pressure fluid rushing thru that, and guess what previous models didn't have this issue, so in a way to "cut costs" they made one out of plastic, how is cost cutting not "being cheap"? I paid for my shit, didn't foot the bill to Mitsu so who are you to think you are better because you don't complain?

loooool... a gentle reply on the first paragraph , an attack in the second. no comment here!

if mitsu would have complied with all the cries and critisim in tuning world , the evo would become another 1 billion Litre , 20 cylinder engine car! or better would have a damn turbine engine instead with autopilot!! and quadriple clutch system!! , just to satisfy the hunger in the tuning world , which mitsu doesnt care about in the first place! , since its all WRC rules for rally cars to be road driven to be allowed to enter rally championships,otherwise me n u will never even see an evo from a 1000 mile distance ;)

and again back to topic

Stock clutch running cars have also pop'd their MC's. I think for them it was a matter of spent clutch material building up causing higher pressures.

Yep... Mine broke with the stock clutch. Now I've got the Magnus CMC and haven't had any problems and it drives great.

Carissa

Is this a MUST upgrade if im getting a new clutch? My clutch is going out and will need to be replaced soon. I have the 08 X and plan on going with the ACT ME1-HDSS clutch. I know there a few people out there that haven't upgraded their MC and currently running the ACT clutch. What do you guys think?

Edit: Because I need to replace the clutch and other stuff to take care of, money will be tight for the next couple of weeks, this is why i ask it is necessary to change the MC, ASAP or can i run the OEM one for awhile (few months, if possible)

loooool... a gentle reply on the first paragraph , an attack in the second. no comment here!

if mitsu would have complied with all the cries and critisim in tuning world , the evo would become another 1 billion Litre , 20 cylinder engine car! or better would have a damn turbine engine instead with autopilot!! and quadriple clutch system!! , just to satisfy the hunger in the tuning world , which mitsu doesnt care about in the first place! , since its all WRC rules for rally cars to be road driven to be allowed to enter rally championships,otherwise me n u will never even see an evo from a 1000 mile distance ;)

and again back to topic

Um, hey when was the last time Mitsu did rally? LMFAO. They pulled out of the game before the 10 came out pal. On top of that the rally cars that are used are own 3rd party like Foust and Rockstar. Third the Evo is one of their cars that continues to sell off the lot because of price, performance and user modifications. Again if they didn't KNOW or care about the aftermarket they wouldn't have upped the power from previous years, they wouldn't have gone thru all this aero testing for street use, they wouldn't leave the ECU flashable. They would shoot them selves in the foot if the blocked off the community to user modifications to the Evo. And the best thing is how you say they don't care. Have you never heard of MOD? LMFAO.

Is this a MUST upgrade if im getting a new clutch? My clutch is going out and will need to be replaced soon. I have the 08 X and plan on going with the ACT ME1-HDSS clutch. I know there a few people out there that haven't upgraded their MC and currently running the ACT clutch. What do you guys think?

ACT's haven't popped as many as say Exedy, but as you see some with stock clutches have gone out. As a precaution so you don't end up clutchless one day while driving, get an aftermarket one. I'm now on Magnus and loving it.

[QUOTE=xbox4414;577934]Um, hey when was the last time Mitsu did rally? LMFAO. They pulled out of the game before the 10 came out pal. On top of that the rally cars that are used are own 3rd party like Foust and Rockstar. Third the Evo is one of their cars that continues to sell off the lot because of price, performance and user modifications. Again if they didn't KNOW or care about the aftermarket they wouldn't have upped the power from previous years, they wouldn't have gone thru all this aero testing for street use, they wouldn't leave the ECU flashable. They would shoot them selves in the foot if the blocked off the community to user modifications to the Evo. And the best thing is how you say they don't care. Have you never heard of MOD? LMFAO.QUOTE]

looooool.... clearly u dont read history, they backed up before the evo 10 was launched ,which is based on the previous NINEEEE versions of this car which were competing in the WRC , road testing and the things ur saying is bound to happen , for the car to be sellable on the market soo they can be ALLOWED TO RALLY IN THE WRC , ECU FLASH MUST BE TUNABLE for the RALLIART devision to do tuning upon, the third party car u speak of is the EVO RS model, which has less weight and another minor differences , but still a streetable car , if not , they wont be allowed to compete , understand this , evo was made for the RALLY , the market thing came on later as a by product!!!!!!!
didnt u think why evo is only 2.0 engine and didnt increase displacement , like the subaru did??!! that would cleary be of valiable benefit marketly wise! , but they didnt! why is that they stand for a priniciple , bespite tuner world thirst for bigger engine!

again apologies for the OP , for heavly derailing this thread on non-sense talk!

Great write up Hollywood!

The reason Mitsu went plastic? Cost! This is no the first time Plastic has been used in a master cylinder in a production autombile, Audi comes to mind. Not to mention the Master cylinder in the EVOX is made by LUK, which is a german company.

The only time we see them fail on stock cars is under extreme use. What usually happens is clutch dust will start to make the release bearing system bind a bit more, making it a little harder to push in the clutch, something you won't feel over time. But heavy launches, or alot of stop + go traffic will cause excessive clutch dust, if for whatever reason it doesn't ventilate from the bell housing fast enough and becomes stuck to assembly it does make hinder the free movement of the assembly and will cause some binding, So if you have your tranny out make sure this is cleaned well and free of any binding.

Or you can just buy this part and not have to worry. :)

Marco

Well my shop got my Magnus in on Friday, they said it was a PITA but it is in now.

I think this is the problem that some were seeing was that it can be installed backwards.

Anyway, my shop went to hook in the brake booster and noticed they had to flip it around so they had to pull it back out :(

But now it is in and done and they can finish off the easy stuff on my car and start the biatch! If I have problems with this I will end myself, lol.

Well my shop got my Magnus in on Friday, they said it was a PITA but it is in now.

I think this is the problem that some were seeing was that it can be installed backwards.

Anyway, my shop went to hook in the brake booster and noticed they had to flip it around so they had to pull it back out :(

But now it is in and done and they can finish off the easy stuff on my car and start the biatch! If I have problems with this I will end myself, lol.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=576657&postcount=22

Exactly why I posted that. Same thing with me.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=576657&postcount=22

Exactly why I posted that. Same thing with me.

Yea I told them i read about that happening to someone else, but I didn't read yours until the weekend and by then they had it in already, lol.

What's another 200 bucks in labor right ;) Probably not that high but yea, it sucked.

LOL. They charged you more?!? Did you go to a shop that is a vendor? I went to Tha Shop located north west of LA. Amazing guys. No additional charge in labor and they drove me home mind you the shop is 300+ miles from my house. I did have to take another trip on amtrack, so yeah like $120 in train, bus and hotel expenses. But damn they charged you... Contact Magnus, they will take care of you. They took good care of me when this happened.

Not sure if they did...I was slightly kidding...but it is a more shop time. I wouldn't bug magnus for this.

My shop is awesome, they probably won't charge me for this, they had to do a similar thing with the first SSP one and they didn't charge me, so I was more so alluding to the fact it sucks you can install it backwards. Some shops will for sure charge more if they do the job on how much time it takes.

Oh okay. Lol. So you had a SSP and got Magnus? Leaking seals? Yeah much of a pain as it was to do the Magnus, never do I regret it. Would never get a SSP cmc.

Oh okay. Lol. So you had a SSP and got Magnus? Leaking seals? Yeah much of a pain as it was to do the Magnus, never do I regret it. Would never get a SSP cmc.

Yep..I had the SSP rev 1, then rev 2...while my motor was out they were working on the rev 2 but it was leaking so I just said F it, and went with the magnus...honestly I think I could've gotten the rev2 ssp to work but magnus seemed like a for sure solution as they used an Evo 9 one.

Yep..I had the SSP rev 1, then rev 2...while my motor was out they were working on the rev 2 but it was leaking so I just said F it, and went with the magnus...honestly I think I could've gotten the rev2 ssp to work but magnus seemed like a for sure solution as they used an Evo 9 one.

Is your FP_Black build complete? What clutch did you go with?

BTW: Awesome write up Woody!!!

NEWB

Is your FP_Black build complete? What clutch did you go with?

BTW: Awesome write up Woody!!!

NEWB

Post in my build thread, lol.

But i went with the ACT 6 puck with HD pressure plate :) It is done and we just troubleshot some wiring issues tonight, just got back a few mins ago, was there 7 hours. They will start it in the morning. Dyno numbers will come in a week if there are no leaks on the motor.

Thanks Hollywood for this, said this once before but im going to say this again.. You the MAN!!!!!!

their CMC went bad on the track.

Totally. The nearest track to me is a 2.5hr drive. You'll have to trailer or tow it a long way to get to a shop that you'd want touching an Evo (or to your home). Breaking down is never cheap.

I had bought one of these just to have on hand since failures on ACT clutches isn't very high. Now it's on murlo's car, saving him a 2 week wait.

Totally. The nearest track to me is a 2.5hr drive. You'll have to trailer or tow it a long way to get to a shop that you'd want touching an Evo (or to your home). Breaking down is never cheap.

I had bought one of these just to have on hand since failures on ACT clutches isn't very high. Now it's on murlo's car, saving him a 2 week wait.

Crap! That reminds me, I need to order you one, lol. I will do that today when I get home :)

Hollywood,

How did you get the bolt on the upper right out? i cant even get my hand up there. I grinded the lower left bolt and was able to wobble it loose with my vice grips and back it out though the engine bay..

This other bolt i cant even get my socket wrench up behind where it is under the dash!

Also

For the rest of you who are going to attempt just be aware it took me 7 hours taking my time. I had to remove my drivers seat to get more room and i was covered in brake fluid the whole day.

When bending your brake lines take your time, i did a more gradual bend because i didnt want to risk kinking anything.. Not FUN!

Something i rather not do again!

Hollywood,

How did you get the bolt on the upper right out? i cant even get my hand up there. I grinded the lower left bolt and was able to wobble it loose with my vice grips and back it out though the engine bay..

This other bolt i cant even get my socket wrench up behind where it is under the dash!

Also

For the rest of you who are going to attempt just be aware it took me 7 hours taking my time. I had to remove my drivers seat to get more room and i was covered in brake fluid the whole day.

When bending your brake lines take your time, i did a more gradual bend because i didnt want to risk kinking anything.. Not FUN!

Something i rather not do again!

Once I had it ground flat I just popped it with a hammer and screw driver.
For putting the new bolts in I had my girl upside down on the inside of the car holding backup.

Nice write up. My shop looked it over, and said you are awesome.

So, you are awesome.

I don't know if you can answer me, but where do I order a Magnus CMC? I didn't find on the websites that I normally use.

http://magnusmotorsports.com/?page_id=2

Is where u get the CMC.

Newb

http://magnusmotorsports.com/?page_id=2

Is where u get the CMC.

Newb

Thanks! I've just sent an email to them. From everything I've read here, the Magnus CMS is what I've decided to get.

I don't know if it has ever been covered, but here is a really easy way that I bleed my brakes.


http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh119/rockn82/BleedingBrakestheeasyway.jpg

You can do it by putting a vac line (good snug fit) on the bleed screw and leaving it open. Place the other end of the line at the bottom of a deep container that has some brake fluid in it. When you press on the brakes the air will be expelled and when you release them it will draw in brake fluid. It results in a perfect bleed every time. Just make sure you top off your brake fluid reservoir every few pushes.

I figured I may as well toss it out there because what is common knowledge for some is useful for others.

Also, thanks for a great write up Hollywood!


EDIT: I know my art sux... I'm no photoshopper : )

Still working on that top right bolt it's a pain in the ass. It's ground down but I can't get a hammer in to bang it and I can't get vice grips on the inside to wiggle it free. I think in going to try and put a deep socket on it that is about the same size and wiggle it loose.

FML

Thanks for the writeup Hollywood! This has helped tremendously... hopefully I will be done soon (it is going to be nice not worrying about a pedal sticking anymore)

Thanks for the writeup Hollywood! This has helped tremendously... hopefully I will be done soon (it is going to be nice not worrying about a pedal sticking anymore)

that plus you can adjust your pedal height

So finally happen after 3 months with stock MC and Exedy stage 2 HD, the cluth pedal go all the wway to the floor, thinking of MC replacement and after seeing all this reviews I'm going with the Magnus CMC, wish me luck, kind of dissapointed and sad because I will not drive my X in like two weeks or so.

it is a great upgrade, a little 'fun to install" but great none the less

Installing this was not as easy as it looked. Getting to the master cylinder was easy but cutting of the heads of the studs was the hard part. I bought dremel rotary cutter and the oscillator both of them did not help at all. Then i went around indianapolis to find that small burr bit. I could not find it may be i did not look in the right place. Then I wen to harbor freight and bought a air grinder for $25(in the pictures below), bought the burr bit from amazon for $16 and borrowed out a 20gal tank air compressor.
Then all the things started fall in place. The hardest part was to get to the bolt on the left most corner. There was a small harness and a electrical unit which i removed and could access the bolt so easly. Finished up the installation, put everything back in place and bled the lines.

Then i took the car out for a drive. The clutch started to feel good. the pedal response is good and feel less chatter now(exedy stage 2). One thing i noticed after putting 30-50miles of city driving on it is. Whenever I engage and disengage the clutch i hear a creeking noise. I head the same noise on my stock mc before it broke. Is it the spring inside the MC that is making that noise? Everything else about the MC is good except this.
Someone help me with this

http://yfrog.com/5limg0012nrjhttp://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5611/img0012nr.jpg (http://img201.imageshack.us/i/img0012nr.jpg/)



http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/9236/img0018jn.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/i/img0018jn.jpg/)

If anyone wants these PM me.

The Burr bits just eat the metal don't they :)
Not sure on the creeeeking noise, that maybe the feedback from the slave.
Either way this MC isn't going to break

For putting the new bolts in I had my girl upside down on the inside of the car holding backup.
I don't think I could get anything done if my girl was upside down inside my car holding anything....


I would like to point out that if you do NOT have the tools that Hollywood has listed, ie a pnuematic high speed, as well as a compressor capable of running it, you should probably just take this job to a shop. It is a MAJOR p.i.t.a. Particularily compared to the SSP v2.

This is a proven design though, so even though it is a p.i.t.a it is a good thing. As an added benefit, there is now more than one choice for the master cylinder fix, wich is a good thing.

Nice write up btw. :D

So my engagement point keeps moving on me with the magnus and just now at the gas station...the pedal dropped to the floor! I was like NOOOOOOOOO...i pulled it back up with my foot and strangely it started working again, but now I don't know what to think.

So my engagement point keeps moving on me with the magnus and just now at the gas station...the pedal dropped to the floor! I was like NOOOOOOOOO...i pulled it back up with my foot and strangely it started working again, but now I don't know what to think.

Thats air in the lines due to not bleeding both brake bleeders with the slave.
Go to Les Schwab drop $20 for them to pressure bleed the lines. Most people don't know the Brembo's have an inside and outside bleeder.

Thats air in the lines due to not bleeding both brake bleeders with the slave.

Pretty sure our mechanic knows Brembos. lol. That's not to say that another bleeding wouldn't hurt.

Murlo, you upgrade to ATE Super Blue yet? Maybe you should just do a full flush.

Pretty sure our mechanic knows Brembos. lol. That's not to say that another bleeding wouldn't hurt.

Murlo, you upgrade to ATE Super Blue yet? Maybe you should just do a full flush.

I have not...

I have not...
Don't forget when bleeding the brakes on the X that the bleed order is not the same as people are used to.

Order is LR, RR, RF, LF. The brakes on the left side are farther from the master cylinder plumbing wise than the ones on the left, due to where the ABS pump is. Bleed from farthest to closest.

When bleeding the clutch, the stand pipe inside the master cylinder is pretty tall to keep the clutch from taking the brakes fluid. As a result, you need to make sure to keep it very full while doing a clutch bleed. It is difficult to see when the clutch side gets low, so I recomend filling it over into the neck a bit, and when it gets down to full, filling it again. When you are done, you can just suck out the extra with your bleeder. This should help keep you from getting accidental air into the system while bleeding it.

The Burr bits just eat the metal don't they :)
Not sure on the creeeeking noise, that maybe the feedback from the slave.
Either way this MC isn't going to break

hey hollywood,
i just got a video of the CMC making the creaking sound. Can you see the video and tell me what might be the problem?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfVNRRWJ1VU

hey hollywood,
i just got a video of the CMC making the creaking sound. Can you see the video and tell me what might be the problem?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfVNRRWJ1VU

Sounds to me like the pedal hinge point asking for a bit of grease. Hard to say from a video though.

i feel that it is the spring inside the MC. I will apply some grease at the hinge and check it.

Hmmm... I think I can literally MAKE this Evo 9 CMC conversion kit (that's all it is).

The IX CMC itself is about $100

Thanks for the write-up, I'm starting to think about getting a little adventurous.

Well I stopped at my shop two days ago to get the lines rebleed and an oil pan leak fixed and they said that the first few bleeds the stuff that came out looked like used oil.

Bottom line, my car is un-driveable right now because of this master cylinder...maybe I am lucky and I get to be the first one to have a shitty/failed one but this thing totally sucks...I am so sick of dealing with MC issues. grrrr.

My fluid looked like that with the ssp mc when it had the horrible leak and was getting stuck to the floor...

My fluid looked like that with the ssp mc when it had the horrible leak and was getting stuck to the floor...

Sigh, so there probably is a leak then :(

We looked under the hood last night, me and my friend who is a mechanic and didn't see leaks, but who knows.

Well I stopped at my shop two days ago to get the lines rebleed and an oil pan leak fixed and they said that the first few bleeds the stuff that came out looked like used oil.

Bottom line, my car is un-driveable right now because of this master cylinder...maybe I am lucky and I get to be the first one to have a shitty/failed one but this thing totally sucks...I am so sick of dealing with MC issues. grrrr.

Are you using regular DOT 3 or 4 or some special stuff? Look at the pedal itself when the arm attaches to it to see if it got loose and pop'd off.

Are you using regular DOT 3 or 4 or some special stuff? Look at the pedal itself when the arm attaches to it to see if it got loose and pop'd off.

Just the DOT 4 stuff I think, pretty sure it's 4, whatever the normal stuff is.

Well everything actuates fine the rods are all moving as they are supposed to.

We bleed all the brakes in the right order and then went to the slave and it didn't want to bleed at all. We flushed a lot of fluid through it to see if there was major air and the fluid we got out was all gray :(

Then we went to bleed it and trying to build pressure on it just wouldn't work, it would build but when you hold it before you even release the bleeder nipple it would go the floor and you can here air in the cabin pushing past a seal or something right near the pedal.

The guy that helped agreed that the master cylinder is most likely bad!

So yea, glad I get to be the first one. I have also been talking with 2-3 other actual mechanics who all said it sounds like a bad master cylinder including my own shop. So I am calling magnus to see if they will send me a new one this week...so my SSP Rev 2 leaked and now my magnus does too...should've stayed with stock, never had problems.

Are we stock with DOT3 or DOT4 fluid?

Are we stock with DOT3 or DOT4 fluid?

Not positive, but the reservoir says to use either dot 3 or dot 4, so knowing mitsu I am sure its a bit cheaper to get dot 3, so they probably use that but who knows.

Is it ok to mix? Total noob question I know...

nvm... googled and found that 3 and 4 are ok to mix, but thats it.

Not positive, but the reservoir says to use either dot 3 or dot 4, so knowing mitsu I am sure its a bit cheaper to get dot 3, so they probably use that but who knows.

Murlo, did Magnus get back to you?

Is your car still down or did you get a new master cylinder sent? One more thing, there maybe a small leak in your master to slave line, please check your connections. I'v had a leak there on my Maxima and my slave wouldnt engage.

Thanks,
NEWB

Murlo, did Magnus get back to you?

Is your car still down or did you get a new master cylinder sent? One more thing, there maybe a small leak in your master to slave line, please check your connections. I'v had a leak there on my Maxima and my slave wouldnt engage.

Thanks,
NEWB

I haven't contacted them yet as I am not totally positive there isn't a leak elsewhere.

Air is getting into the system somewhere though, so I am getting a tow to my shop today.

They are going to check all the connections and hoses for leaks and if they don't see anything then I am guessing we will be pulling the master out and bench testing it.

If it doesn't hold pressure on the bench then I will warranty it. I don't want to send it back to them until I am sure the master is the problem. My shop said they have never seen an evo with a bad master and only 1 dsm so the odds that it is the master are low so we need to make sure that is the prob.

A tow will be 1-200 bucks but it is what it is...I can't drive it to them because the car was getting progressively worse and I don't want to strand it on the freeway and have to get a tow anyway.

I haven't contacted them yet as I am not totally positive there isn't a leak elsewhere.

Air is getting into the system somewhere though, so I am getting a tow to my shop today.

They are going to check all the connections and hoses for leaks and if they don't see anything then I am guessing we will be pulling the master out and bench testing it.

If it doesn't hold pressure on the bench then I will warranty it. I don't want to send it back to them until I am sure the master is the problem. My shop said they have never seen an evo with a bad master and only 1 dsm so the odds that it is the master are low so we need to make sure that is the prob.

A tow will be 1-200 bucks but it is what it is...I can't drive it to them because the car was getting progressively worse and I don't want to strand it on the freeway and have to get a tow anyway.

Call Marco,

Tel. #: 905 669 8400

I'm sure he has a solution for you. Hope this is resolved quickly and you get that monster back on the road quickly.

;-) Newbski

Are we stock with DOT3 or DOT4 fluid?
OEM Mitsu brake fluid is DOT3. It is ok to mix DOT3 and 4, they are completely compatible.

Generally speaking, DOT3 will last longer (less hygroscopic) but DOT4 has a higher boiling point.

Call Marco,

Tel. #: 905 669 8400

I'm sure he has a solution for you. Hope this is resolved quickly and you get that monster back on the road quickly.

;-) Newbski

I'll give my shop a call and if needed they can talk with Marco quick.

Like I said, no reason to bug Magnus just yet...to me it seems like the MC is bad, but it could be a line/fitting issue too. My car is on the tow truck now (or will be shortly) so hopefully later today we will get something figured out.

My car is on the tow truck now (or will be shortly) so hopefully later today we will get something figured out.

woot. AAA ftw?

woot. AAA ftw?

Yep...they only go five miles and then charge for extra so it wasn't free, but $80 isn't bad so I just said F it.

I'll give my shop a call and if needed they can talk with Marco quick.

Like I said, no reason to bug Magnus just yet...to me it seems like the MC is bad, but it could be a line/fitting issue too. My car is on the tow truck now (or will be shortly) so hopefully later today we will get something figured out.

In for the update.
Newb

1 week since install I had to bleed the system 3 times to get all the air out and pressure bleed the clutch + apply force on the pedal to bleed it correctly.

Maybe bench bleeding both the cmc and Bmc would make things easier for new installs


It's really nice to step on the clutch pedal and not have to worry about the cmc exploding.

Yep...they only go five miles and then charge for extra so it wasn't free, but $80 isn't bad so I just said F it.

Dude, it's 5 miles for the basic AAA. Upgrade to "AAA Plus" for another $35/yr and they'll go 100 miles.

Dude, it's 5 miles for the basic AAA. Upgrade to "AAA Plus" for another $35/yr and they'll go 100 miles.

Too late now, lol...its already at DB :)

Have Shane at DB call me or email me and we can sort it out.

When you first install the master cylinder, Vacuum, pressure bleeding, bench bleeding or gravity bleeding is required to prime the master cylinder. Installing any master cylinder dry, can cause the seals to dry up and tear if fluid does not enter the chamber quickly enough. All Master cylinders, slave cylinders, wheel cylinders, all brake components come pregreased, but as a precaution this is always the proper protocol when installing any brake master cylinder or clutch master cylinder on any car, or you may end up doing the job twice.

Also try to avoid pushing the cylinder in and out when dry. These are just precautions, as most of the time you shouldn't have problems.

Also consider having an experienced Licensed mechanic do the install if you are uncomfortable with the job, we suggest this for all install work on your vehicle.

Have Shane at DB call me or email me and we can sort it out.

When you first install the master cylinder, Vacuum, pressure bleeding, bench bleeding or gravity bleeding is required to prime the master cylinder. Installing any master cylinder dry, can cause the seals to dry up and tear if fluid does not enter the chamber quickly enough. All Master cylinders, slave cylinders, wheel cylinders, all brake components come pregreased, but as a precaution this is always the proper protocol when installing any brake master cylinder or clutch master cylinder on any car, or you may end up doing the job twice.

Also try to avoid pushing the cylinder in and out when dry. These are just precautions, as most of the time you shouldn't have problems.

Also consider having an experienced Licensed mechanic do the install if you are uncomfortable with the job, we suggest this for all install work on your vehicle.

Thanks for the response. My car is up at DB now. They actually did the install, while the motor was being put back in I had them do this as well.

I believe they bench tested it and did all the necessary stuff to install this. They have since tried bleeding it several times and I attempted to bleed it more on Sunday to no avail. The car was towed up to DB and they are checking it out, hopefully today. I gave them your number to call so we will see what happens.

The reason they found that my SSP rev 2 cylinder was leaking was because they checked it on the bench first...so I would assume they did that again with your master cylinder. I am not really blaming you guys or anything, I am just frustrated at the situation of having to keep paying extra for all this nonsense and not having my car blows after 5 months of it being down for the motor.

I will call DB in a bit and see what their plans are and tell them you said to for them to give you a call.

Thanks for the response again.

Status Murlowski?

Status Murlowski?

I'm in Seattle this week for work, DB is working on it though. They said they would call me tomorrow.

Some good news I guess, minus the fact I need to spend more money.

They are wrapping up my car now and bleeding it again with the new MC in there. Magnus basically told Danny to order a new MC from Mitsu (evo 9 one) and they would reimburse him.

They took apart my evo 9 one and found the inner seal was ripped as Marco at Magnus said, which he has seen once ever, twice now I guess :(

So good news is the MC was the problem, so some relief that it won't happen again with the new one, or should I say odds are low.

And more good news the car will be ready for this weekend :)

Some good news I guess, minus the fact I need to spend more money.

They are wrapping up my car now and bleeding it again with the new MC in there. Magnus basically told Danny to order a new MC from Mitsu (evo 9 one) and they would reimburse him.

They took apart my evo 9 one and found the inner seal was ripped as Marco at Magnus said, which he has seen once ever, twice now I guess :(

So good news is the MC was the problem, so some relief that it won't happen again with the new one, or should I say odds are low.

And more good news the car will be ready for this weekend :)

Like in the other thread. Glad you got it resolved.

Keep us updated.
NEWB

Noob question, So is the Magnus CMC basically an Evo 9 CMC?

So is the Magnus CMC basically an Evo 9 CMC?

It is exactly an Evo 9 CMC. They made a nice billet mount, adjustable billet attachment to the pedal, and include a stainless line.

http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae80/mlomker/Car%20Sept%202010/goodies.jpg

Huh. Didn't know that.

FWIW, I ordered one today from MAP; seemed like a logical choice, given the motor's coming out.

Huh. Didn't know that.

FWIW, I ordered one today from MAP; seemed like a logical choice, given the motor's coming out.

So what are you going to use for a bracket to strengthen the firewall?

NEWB

I'm sorry, I meant I ordered a Magnus one from MAP.

I'm sorry, I meant I ordered a Magnus one from MAP.

Dont be sorry, about a thing.........cause every little ting gonna be aaaaight.

MAP now sells Magnus? EPICSAUCE! :D

They do, yeah. Supposedly they're getting a stocking order in next week or something, and I have one of those.

Not in a rush for it, but I basically just asked when I placed an order if they stocked them; yup, they do!

Just remove the holding studs, just with a 4" grinder and air hammer in about 15 minutes really easy, my CMC suppose to arrive next week lets see next weekend.

I got impatient using the burr bit, so I bought a pneumatic cut-off tool. This will throw sparks so definitely wear glasses.

One other gotcha, bleed the brakes THOROUGHLY. I had very little pressure in my brake afterwards even though I was sure it was flushed and filled. I gave up and had the dealership bleed it, total fail on my part I thought it was my brake booster turns out I just suck at bleeding brakes.

Just remove the holding studs, just with a 4" grinder and air hammer in about 15 minutes really easy, my CMC suppose to arrive next week lets see next weekend.

Nice, let us know how you like it.

I got impatient using the burr bit, so I bought a pneumatic cut-off tool. This will throw sparks so definitely wear glasses.

One other gotcha, bleed the brakes THOROUGHLY. I had very little pressure in my brake afterwards even though I was sure it was flushed and filled. I gave up and had the dealership bleed it, total fail on my part I thought it was my brake booster turns out I just suck at bleeding brakes.

Ergh, make sure it wasn't bled while dry, that can damage the internal seals. For this job a pressure bleeder is an absolute life save.

NEWB

MAP now sells Magnus? EPICSAUCE! :D

MAP actually sells just about everything. Their web site doesn't even show 1/10th of the stuff they sell. Basically if you know someone sells it, MAP sells it too.

Now that I said that, someones going to call up there, get told no, and flame me. :godance:

I haven't contacted them yet as I am not totally positive there isn't a leak elsewhere.

Air is getting into the system somewhere though, so I am getting a tow to my shop today.

They are going to check all the connections and hoses for leaks and if they don't see anything then I am guessing we will be pulling the master out and bench testing it.

If it doesn't hold pressure on the bench then I will warranty it. I don't want to send it back to them until I am sure the master is the problem. My shop said they have never seen an evo with a bad master and only 1 dsm so the odds that it is the master are low so we need to make sure that is the prob.

A tow will be 1-200 bucks but it is what it is...I can't drive it to them because the car was getting progressively worse and I don't want to strand it on the freeway and have to get a tow anyway.

Alright so this is exactly what happen with my Evo yesterday. First, I ordered 2 set of Magnus CMC just in case that one went bad, so I have another to replace right away (Didn't know it is evo 9 CMC). After that, I had GST motorsports installed Exedy HD twin clutch and Magnus CMC two weeks ago. I thought that I won't have to worry about the CMC anymore, but its not. I have to tow my evo to GST yesterday at 11PM. The guy at GST is awesome. Tommy came to the shop at 10:45pm on Saturday night, waited for me to help me put the car in side the shop, and found out that the the seals in side the CMC was ripped.
This is the Clip that i took so everyone have an idea what is happen.
What do I need to do now?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QyOGDArEng

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs912.snc4/72549_1689807971666_1431725263_31804016_2183479_n.jpg

You guys do realize that it's not really a failure of Magnus right? As they aren't the ones manufacturing the CMC. Magnus made the plate. So did the plate adapter fail? lol.

Contact Magnus they just had me order an evo 9 CMC from mitsubishi to replace it.

You guys do realize that it's not really a failure of Magnus right?

True but ultimately nobody really cares. We buy these upgrades to make the car more reliable and to avoid unexpected expenses. If it fails to do that then it fails to serve its purpose.

Well, I didnt said it's Magnus fails, however as a manufacture, they should stated that they used evo 9 CMC to make a custom mouting plate, so that if it fails, ,people like me don't need to buy 2 set of the CMC, and know to get an OEM evo9 CMC to replace it. Also, they need to include the How to install the CMC with their product so everyone cOuld done a job right in first place.

I can see two things with the instructions.

First off, if they included instructions, they'd then be sort of expected to provide support for said instructions, which could be... painful.

Secondly, it's an item that's really, really unique. Most people who are doing the installs of a CMC are going to be pretty damn mechanical.

I kinda look at it this way; my valves didn't come with instructions. Nor did my turbo. Nor did my manifold. It's a part. It's expected that the people installing it are going to know what they're doing.

Now, when I get mine installed, I'm going to point my shop to this thread, print out the instructions, and give them every warning I possibly can about the right way to do it; but, fuck me, if they can't do a CMC install correctly, I have bigger issues to be concerned about.

Well, I didnt said it's Magnus fails, however as a manufacture, they should stated that they used evo 9 CMC to make a custom mouting plate, so that if it fails, ,people like me don't need to buy 2 set of the CMC, and know to get an OEM evo9 CMC to replace it. Also, they need to include the How to install the CMC with their product so everyone cOuld done a job right in first place.

Did you get your CMC issue fixed bro? You gonna pick up the SSP CMC that Dev's got @ the shop? LMK if you need help getting it in. :rock:

I can see two things with the instructions.

First off, if they included instructions, they'd then be sort of expected to provide support for said instructions, which could be... painful.

Secondly, it's an item that's really, really unique. Most people who are doing the installs of a CMC are going to be pretty damn mechanical.

I kinda look at it this way; my valves didn't come with instructions. Nor did my turbo. Nor did my manifold. It's a part. It's expected that the people installing it are going to know what they're doing.

Now, when I get mine installed, I'm going to point my shop to this thread, print out the instructions, and give them every warning I possibly can about the right way to do it; but, fuck me, if they can't do a CMC install correctly, I have bigger issues to be concerned about.

I did everything that you just said such as point them to this thread, printed out instructor for them, so and so.... and I don't think that my shop f*uck up my CMC. Just luck is not on my side.

Did you get your CMC issue fixed bro? You gonna pick up the SSP CMC that Dev's got @ the shop? LMK if you need help getting it in. :rock:

Thanks Stephen, I bought 2 set, so still have one more to go ;). Tommy at GST will take care of it. I'm so tired with all the work that we did in the pass 3 day to get my car back in the street, then this's happen. Enjoy your trip to Vegas and Sema man. See u when u back

Just luck is not on my side.

What I've gathered is that it's easy to damage that internal membrane when it is dry...how the bench bleeding goes seems to dictate everything else.

Thanks Stephen, I bought 2 set, so still have one more to go ;). Tommy at GST will take care of it. I'm so tired with all the work that we did in the pass 3 day to get my car back in the street, then this's happen. Enjoy your trip to Vegas and Sema man. See u when u back

Will do bro! Super excited for SEMA!!! Wish you were rolling out with us bro. Theres still time to book a flight and you can crash with us. :rock:

Oh, forgot to ask, how you liken the KW's? You get them setup yet?

Will do bro! Super excited for SEMA!!! Wish you were rolling out with us bro. Theres still time to book a flight and you can crash with us. :rock:

Oh, forgot to ask, how you liken the KW's? You get them setup yet?

Sorry man, I have retune on Sat, and I don't want to leave my car there. I'll have the KW setup after retune.

Well, I didnt said it's Magnus fails, however as a manufacture, they should stated that they used evo 9 CMC to make a custom mouting plate, so that if it fails, ,people like me don't need to buy 2 set of the CMC, and know to get an OEM evo9 CMC to replace it. Also, they need to include the How to install the CMC with their product so everyone cOuld done a job right in first place.

LOL as a community I thought it was obvious they were using the Evo 9 CMC. Since this was announced everyone had been talking about that...and:

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37188&highlight=magnus

Extra holes Indexed to work with LHD or RHD vehicles, or different style master cylinders.

They are using an Evo 9 CMC the extra holes were for another shorter CMC they wanted to use but it wasn't available for purchase in large orders. Everything that was sent out was an Evo 9 CMC from what I understand.

Got mine and am having Jack's install it this friday

Seems like all the failures are happening because the CMC isn't getting bench bled properly. Hate to think that 2 or more shops would mess this up since it's a pretty basic thing to know for a professional mechanic... But it's the only thing I can think of.

There's really nothing special or really unique about this part except that it's modified to mount to our car.

If I were to guess that there was a design fault somewhere, I could probably say that the modifications are causing the clutch pedal to push the piston in at an angle/not pushing it in far enough or too far.

I've already ordered one of these along with a new clutch so I'll be checking it out shortly, but I'd really have to chalk this up to installation error in some form or another. Whether it be bleeding the system properly or not properly adjusting the clutch pedal. Maybe I'll change my mind after I take a hack at throwing it in there.

I have a quick question for those of you that have installed or are in the process of installing the magnus cmc upgrade. I received mine in the mail yesterday (after almost a month) and when i mated the cmc to the magnus adapter plate the bolts stuck out about a quarter inch. Im not sure if this is how its suppose to be (i highly doubt it) but i would just like some feedback on whether or not anybody else has ran into this problem and/or how they went about fixing it.

Here are some pictures, sorry for the bad quality.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h37/bigzz_89/IMG_0009.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h37/bigzz_89/IMG_0008.jpg

Thats normal and what its supposed to look like;

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18824&stc=1&d=1290022036

so am i suppose to back out the oem bolts on the MC and use hex head bolts(or any other kind of bolts)? by any chance do you know the length and pitch of the bolts used in the picture?

Well, after all these debates and comments about Magnus CMC I want to make some comments on my personal experience. First my huge THANK YOU to Hollywood X for his effort in DIY. It is truly excellent guide. (Let’s pronounce him holy or saint whatever he likes :)
Now it is one of the longest installations which are in my pocket. It took me 6HR (yeap I know I’m slow). So far everything works for me and I do not seem to have a problem with it, on the other hand it is just couple days. So, It is time for comments, corrections:

1. It is long install, but no magic tools required. Usual Dremel gets the cutting job done in 5-7 regular cutting discs. Cutting was the easy part of the whole install. Cutting speed for discs 10-15k on you favor. You better vacuum clean the engine bay or have vacuum close to the dremel when you cut with discs. Metal particles were all over the place. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT GLOVE ON THE TOP OF YOUR TURBO INLET !!! Mental in turbo is NOT GOOD! Scared of Dremel’s abilities I even purchased carbide bit ($4) but never used it because disks were fine.
2. When you disassemble the whole thing – you actually can speed up the process. ECU – requires disconnect of the upper holding bracket and you DO NOT disassemble it from the shelf which holds vacuum solenoid and bunch of wires. In other words after you took off air filter and intake hose, you need to remove only three bolts holding the shelf and remove metal holder where air filter assembly was mounted. If I’d know it …
3. Bleeding the brakes is not needed, as well as disconnecting the lines to the brake cylinder. But be very careful when you move the cylinder. Be slow and careful bending the lines.
4. Taking off the booster is easy, but putting it back is a bich. You need to catch right upper bolt (looking at it from the engine bay) first only then it will take its position. You have to find the proper way of pushing it back in. otherwise it just doesn’t go. I wasted a lot of time pushing it in, until figured the proper position.
5. It is pretty complicated to install right CMC bolt if you are working alone. (I didn’t have my girlfriend upside down there :) The solution is – left bolt (from engine bay) is installed from the bay to the cabin. The right bolt is installed backwards from the cabin to the engine bay. So, the nut is in the engine bay. Installing bolt from the cabin is easy – all you need is 12mm socket and short extension. This way you push the bolt in from the cabin and then carefully put the nut on it from the bay. Simple and fast – if I’d only whew it :)

I noticed strange thing bleeding the CMC. If you do it with vacuum bleeder it is fine, now it you try to do it an old school way, by pushing pedal – you are screwed. I did it with bleeder first, the just in case tried to do one push with pedal. OMG I was ready to kill myself – pedal dived to the floor and it was lost. Further attempts to do it with bleeder didn’t do shit. I remembered something I was reading before about MITSU CMCs – you should not bleed them with regular push, if you did… well you need to return pedal in normal position (up), bleed the whole thing with bleeder, then close the valve on CSC and push the clutch fork back towards CSC, do it several times. Then bleed again with pump, and repeat action with CSC opening bleeding valve on it when fork is completely pushed in towards CSC. Release the fork when valve is closed. So, you push it, open the valve holding it pushed and then close the valve, then release the fork. This way I fixed the situation and pedal started to work fine again.

Assuming all this strange things PLEASE PLEASE someone pose pictures of disassembled evo 9 cylinder!!! I’m trying to understand and find a reason for malfunction some people experience. It should be something very simple! Probably cylinder malfunctions if piston with gasket touches the bottom of the cylinder during pedal bleeding??? May be it shouldn’t travel that far in evo 9 and it does in evo X? May be it is matter of correct pedal height, when can be adjusted now? Pictures would give us and instant answer…

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h37/bigzz_89/IMG_0008.jpg

Thats normal and what its supposed to look like;

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18824&stc=1&d=1290022036
That's different from what his looks like

:dancebanana:

It looks like you are correctly assuming you need a hex head to go in from the bottom, counter-bored side, so that it is flush with the mounting surface to the firewall. I can't tell you the thread pitch yet because I don't have an Evo IX CMC sitting in front of me, but I will be making my own conversion kit (it's just a fucking plate with holes in it and an adapter to mate to the clutch pedal)

well i went to order one since iam getting a new clutch and they are only selling the back part of it you have to find your own MC now from an evoIX something about running out in canada.....

That does make sense, take a lot off the manufacture, as Magnus was getting heat for failing.or installed wrong CMC's and all they make is the plate. From a business POV I like just selling the plate.

well i went to order one since iam getting a new clutch and they are only selling the back part of it you have to find your own MC now from an evoIX something about running out in canada.....


SSP mc3 ftw!

Could someone post pictures of EVO 9 CMC INSIDE (gaskets, piston)?

How does it look there? I do not believe it is bad quality component. It is just some sort of glich which happens with people during bleeding.

Mine is already in... so I cannot look inside of it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-04-05-06-EVO-8-9-MR-GSR-RS-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563debc1c4QQitemZ370406048196QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_867wt_732

OR

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=evo+master+cylinder&_sacat=See-All-Categories

$25
ok ready

GO!!!

SSP mc3 ftw!

LMAO! Makes me laugh that they had to try 3 versions just to make one part work without issues. :duh:

I'm runing the Magnus mcc and I have no problems with it at 2k miles. Only thing is that it's takes geting used to I didnt realize before my stocker was so bad. As well as I just bolted up the ss line right to the shift fork pusher thing. Removing that little metal pice that separates them. Feels like my old civic clutch now lol

I was trying to install an oem master cylinder on my car and I broke the hard line that goes from the master cylinder to the tranny. Does anyone know where I can order a new part?

Marco sent me this info this morning.

Woody can you add this to your PDF?

Could you tell these guys that there is a new way we found to clear the
Studs off the firewall, in about 2 minutes instead of grinding.

We use a 9 mm deep socket or whatever of your tools will fit the Pedal studs
snugly. Attach a 8 inch or similar extension to the end of the socket, a
little bit of bending back and forth will free up the break the spot welds
cleanly and neatly

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02377.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02378.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02379.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02380.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02381.jpg

so i just finished grinding the two bolts and ready to install the new mc.
the only thing that worries me is it failing like others have. what you guys recomend i do so the seal wont bust like others? mayb add fluid inside the mc and lines b4 bleeding so when i do bleed fluid gets there faster..

by any chance when u guys bleed did u also bleed the slave cylinder? like this...
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/uj1dMdYgRK4?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

what kind of pressure bleeder does anyone recomend?

Hey, just read throught the thread and am wondering how soon the CMC usually goes after a clutch upgrade? I should be getting my Spec 2+ put in either on monday or tuesday and would like to drive it for a month or two before I have to put it back in the shop. It's a DD and I won't likely drive it enough to even get through the break in period on the clutch before I have the cash to order (so I'll be driving slow) this as I work out of town but I was wondering what kind of cost is involved for a shop installation (I don't know how to bleed lines and I'd really rather not mess around with that type of stuff) and what kind of risk I have of the Stock CMC failing before ~800 km?
I live in Canada and if what hollywood says about the temperature being an issue then I know it's something I have to get done before October but I'd really rather wait until june or july. thanks :D

its different for everyone dude. i have a exedy stage 2 hd and been driving for 50 miles a day for 8 months and still strong. the only reason i changed was cause i got air in my lines and thought it was my mc but it still good.

Hey, just read throught the thread and am wondering how soon the CMC usually goes after a clutch upgrade? I should be getting my Spec 2+ put in either on monday or tuesday and would like to drive it for a month or two before I have to put it back in the shop. It's a DD and I won't likely drive it enough to even get through the break in period on the clutch before I have the cash to order (so I'll be driving slow) this as I work out of town but I was wondering what kind of cost is involved for a shop installation (I don't know how to bleed lines and I'd really rather not mess around with that type of stuff) and what kind of risk I have of the Stock CMC failing before ~800 km?
I live in Canada and if what hollywood says about the temperature being an issue then I know it's something I have to get done before October but I'd really rather wait until june or july. thanks :D

Oh cool, then I should probably be okay because that's leaps and bounds above the driving that I plan on doing in the next little bit here, thanks!

how soon the CMC usually goes after a clutch upgrade?

Most people with Spec clutches do not have a problem. I have 9k miles on an ACT clutch. I actually have a Magnus kit here at home just in case since I'd rather not deal with any unecessary downtime in the Summer. It's a risk but you could just take your chances and see what happens. It might be fine for a long time.

Most people with Spec clutches do not have a problem. I have 9k miles on an ACT clutch. I actually have a Magnus kit here at home just in case since I'd rather not deal with any unecessary downtime in the Summer. It's a risk but you could just take your chances and see what happens. It might be fine for a long time.
however ym spec 3+ is slipping after one launch and only 2 k miles so mc lasted and clutch got fucked hahaha

for the people that installed this themselves, I'm having trouble getting the plate to sit flush, because the studs from the cylinder goes past the magnus adapter. so it doesnt sit flush against the firewall because the nuts are hitting it. do i have to do some trimming with the firewall?

and is anyone having trouble getting the top right bolt to go through but from the inside. seems like theres not enough room for you to get your hand under there.

for the people that installed this themselves, I'm having trouble getting the plate to sit flush, because the studs from the cylinder goes past the magnus adapter. so it doesnt sit flush against the firewall because the nuts are hitting it. do i have to do some trimming with the firewall?

and is anyone having trouble getting the top right bolt to go through but from the inside. seems like theres not enough room for you to get your hand under there.

i dont remember having it flush iether...

yeah the inside bold is tricky. if u look inside the on the left of the clutch there is a lil black box (idk what it is but u can remove by removing two nuts, and the braket) after i removed it i could fit my hand easily

This never made it to the How-To section?

So has anyone that has installed this had problem where the car would rev hang?
I have since fixed the problem but when I first installed this my cruise control would not engage and when i would push the clutch in the car would hold the rpms high for about 1-2 sec then slowly drop

Is there supposed to be a hose clamp on the rubber line coming from the resiviour at the new clutch master cylinder?

just used it to get mine in. thanks big help

Marco sent me this info this morning.

Woody can you add this to your PDF?



http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02377.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02378.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02379.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02380.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l36/kamilkluczewski/Magnus/DSC02381.jpg

So I just tried this method. Worked great on the lower right stud Buttttttttt. I snapped the top right stud, so back to old fashion grinding :\