Hey guys,

So after a lot of good advice from you guys on the the forum , i finally switched from my map to the Stage 2 + HKS 91 octane OTS Cobb map. Here are the new results of the log. With much better results, i still did end up with max knock counts of 0.35 times throughout the pull. Any other recommendation of maps or changes?

Thanks

JD

Log is really hard to read, take off a lot of those from your log list. Start log, do a pull in 3rd gear from around 2500rpms to 7000rpms, then stop logging.

From what I see though, near the beginning of your log, the most boost you hit was 23psi, and you did have some bad knock up to 3.x at WOT, which isn't good.

Not sure how the Perrin maps are developed, but I would try one of Cobb's OTS maps. For your mods the HKS Stage 2. If you still get knock, then try the 91oct or LWG HKS maps.

sounds good, i will do that today. thanks for the tips, first time really logging

Edited with new logs, 1st was old Perrin map, lots of knock, 2nd is the Cobb map and i think it is fixed.

ttt

It's much better for sure, but you're still getting knock at WOT throughout most of the pull. Blips of .3 and .7, and occasional 1.x are acceptable from what I've read. Are you using the 93oct map? If so, try the 91oct map that should help with the knock. Next would be LWG maps. Do a few logs and see if you can get zero knock throughout a pull.

All I've heard about the other brand OTS maps (Perrin, AMS etc...) have been knocking nightmares. Stick with the OTS Cobb has on there websites. 91 LWG will save you at least till a protune.

I did some more logging this morning and have periordical 0.4, 0.7, and a couple 1.1 so i 'm a little worried. I'm with the stage 2 93 map, my plan is to switch to the 91 map and then LWG if that doesn't work. Should i stil put 93 if i'm using the lower maps? Also noob question, why exactly is knock bad? i tried searching but couldn't get a good response yet.

Thanks

JD

That's too much knock, what version of each map are you running (91 or 93) and what kind of gas are you running?

The first log is a scary amount of knock, definitely something wrong somewhere... The second log is bad but not AS bad.

If I recall correctly the cobb software converts the knock numbers like this; 0.35 = 1 count of knock, 0.7 = 2 counts of knock, 1.1 = 3 counts of knock and so on..... So when you're seeing 1+ counts of knock in "Accessport language" that's BAD. It's normal to see a 0.35 or 0.7 a couple times through out a pull (not constant like your logs, that's not good).

Put the stock tune on your car and then log with the stock tune, do a couple pulls in 3rd gear. Start at 2000 RPM and floor it to 7000 RPM, that's it you don't need any other gears in there. I would suggest putting the stock air filter in before doing this, take the perrin foam one out.

Oh, and here's a definition of knock for you......

Knock in spark-ignition internal combustion engines (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine) occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio) in the cylinder starts off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug), but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front. The fuel-air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and at a precise time in the piston's stroke cycle. The peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_cycle). The shock wave creates the characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and cylinder pressure increases dramatically. Effects of engine knocking range from inconsequential to completely destructive. It should not be confused with pre-ignition (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking#Pre-ignition) (or preignition), as they are two separate events.

Ya the first map was the stage 2 map that Perrin gave me, def should have been logging earlier.

The second map is Stage 2 + HKS 93 octane with some knock up to 1.1.


Goal for tonight:

Run stock map and check knock counts and then run stage 2 + HKS 91 and see if it gets better, you guys are great
:props:

Have you possibly filled up with bad gas recently? What kind of fuel do you run?

Edit: Also have you replaced your fuel pump relay? This could be going bad causing you to run lean....

You need a wideband.

93 octane from different gas stations. Shell, citgo, mobil usually

Here is the new log from the last run with updates in orginial posting.

Weebles: No WB yet, need to really get one as i should have this figured out, and no i have not replaced m fuel pump relay. What are the costs of doing this and what is involved?

93 octane from different gas stations. Shell, citgo, mobil usually

I had a literal nightmare with Chevron gas in my home town. I swear they are mixing 87 with the 93. I got it from them for about 5-6 tanks and all of a sudden Tephramod Knock light was on at part throttle, full throttle, everything and it lasted for several tanks! I switched over to Shell V-Power 93 and after almost 20 tanks now from several stations I am still in the green, I haven't seen knock again since.

good to know, also found a DYI on the fuel relay swapping, and a cheap WB from SSP

Looks like i have a Grey MFI relay already and i have a black fuel pump relay, green starter replay, green throttle actuator, and Green injector relay. Should i switch to SSP Blue relays?

:tmyk:

good to know, also found a DYI on the fuel relay swapping, and a cheap WB from SSP

Looks like i have a Grey MFI relay already and i have a black fuel pump relay, green starter replay, green throttle actuator, and Green injector relay. Should i switch to SSP Blue relays?

:tmyk:

They are all electromechnical and they will all fail eventually. I think we have had reports of both greens and blues failing thus far. I think the best practice is to keep a spare or two and never stop monitoring your car.

So i was looking into getting a WB and it looks like the AEM uego is the way to go. My AMS HFC has two bungs. The rear is currently being used by the rear o2 and has one at the front of it. Can i use that bung for the WB and still have the rear o2 connected to the car?

So i was looking into getting a WB and it looks like the AEM uego is the way to go. My AMS HFC has two bungs. The rear is currently being used by the rear o2 and has one at the front of it. Can i use that bung for the WB and still have the rear o2 connected to the car?

Yes and no... It depends on what your goals are. I finally found that plugging in a serial cable to log AFR's to be to much of a hassle, when I didn't have a laptop in the car at all times. I wired my wideband into the analog feed for the rear O2 sensor and disabled the rear O2 sensor. I have 2 bungs as well and after doing the aforementioned I have never gotten another rear 02 sensor CEL. I would personally remove/hijack the rear O2 and wire in your wideband. I cut the harness on my rear O2 and wired my wideband in and left the sensor in place to plug the hole.

Having the peace of mind that if your car starts acting up due to fuel, relay, or anything, you can just hit the cruise button or defrost and gather crucial logs was an awesome feature add for me. I now log pretty much anytime I drive my car just to have a record. ^_^

As far as widebands, I would personally go with LC-1 if I had it todo over again. Capatible with more software and hardware out there and after using my AEM I really don't use the gauge at all. What you see and what you get on the gauge are totally different with respect to time.