I m on MR, during servicing, i found Gear oil in the transfer case leaks from one of the bolt as circled in the pic attached.

Then I wash the engine bay from bottom with chemicals and dry it up and went for a spirit drive with hard cornering. the gear oil only come from the bolts and other bolts were found dry with metal body around them dry as well. only that bolt leaks shows the oil trace.

Question,
1) What is the use of that bolt? as it is different size compare to the other bronze bolts.
2) I tried to tighten the bolt and found it is already tighten that i dun want to force tightening it (I dun know the torque spec as well) and hence i removed the bolt and apply engine gasket sealant on it, tighten back and next week i will check on that leakage again.
3)how much it costs for the complete new transfer case?
4)what is the torque spec of the bolts ?
5) What is the aftermarket parts i can use to strengthen my front transfer case which also include the differential?

I also found my magnetic drain plug with a lot of metal debris as picture shown, is it too much or normal?

thanks for sharing, i need helps and suggestions but not rubbish here.

Another one bites the dust...

Cue "Rise of the Valkyries"

How much gear oil is it leaking?

The bolts hold on the cover for the ACD clutch paks, which are directly inside that part of the housing. Are you sure the actual seal above it is not leaking? Are you sure the transfer case is filled correctly and not overflowing?

Torque value is not published, maybe Sheps knows. Would not imagine it to be too great, it's just a cover.

Metal shavings is completely normal, looks fine.

How much gear oil is it leaking?

The bolts hold on the cover for the ACD clutch paks, which are directly inside that part of the housing. Are you sure the actual seal above it is not leaking? Are you sure the transfer case is filled correctly and not overflowing?

Torque value is not published, maybe Sheps knows. Would not imagine it to be too great, it's just a cover.

Metal shavings is completely normal, looks fine.

Thanks discofather, i forgot to take the pictures of the bolt's thread, it looks exactly fine and no crack or damage on the thread. Is there any o-ring for this bolts?
I am definitely sure about the leaking point, i replace the oil and let it overflow and wait till it stop dripping and tighten back the filling cap. the bolts beside this leaking bolt is definitely not leaking and it is dry, very dry.

If it leaks again, i shall put on the oring there and tighten it, wonder it will leak again , looking at the bolt, it is not those that use for high pressure, just like aluminium bolts.

There is no pressure there, nor in the case itself normally. It's got air in it, the top of the clutch paks sit in air.

When you refilled, was the car on a completely level surface? Did the leak start after or before you refilled?

To be more specific, the bolts don't just hold the cover (and seal for the driveshaft) on. They also hold in place a sandwiched center section that houses the hydraulic activation circuit for the clutch paks (ACD line comes into this, it houses a ring shaped piston inside the sandwich plate). Torque value is probably not super high, but I did want to clarify it's not just to hold the outer cover on.

do u have the picture to show me? thanks for sharing.

There is no pressure there, nor in the case itself normally. It's got air in it, the top of the clutch paks sit in air.

When you refilled, was the car on a completely level surface? Did the leak start after or before you refilled?

the car is on jet, the leak start before the refilled, but we have to fill it up and find out where is the leaking part. When i drained the oil, the oil look fresh though it is used for 20k km, but i forget to measure the volume, somehow it is quite a lot, at least 2 quartz.

To be more specific, the bolts don't just hold the cover (and seal for the driveshaft) on. They also hold in place a sandwiched center section that houses the hydraulic activation circuit for the clutch paks (ACD line comes into this, it houses a ring shaped piston inside the sandwich plate). Torque value is probably not super high, but I did want to clarify it's not just to hold the outer cover on.

Seriously.......do you live inside the Transfer case? How do you know so much? You just showed up one day on EvoXForums and rocked my world!

I live in the AYC, but have a summer home in the Transfer Case.

Been working on a writeup of a DIY rebuilding of the T-Case and the rear diff, bought a spare set of both of them a few months ago. It's really not too hard with T-Case, there are 4 conical bearings with seats and then a then 9 O-ring seals (the piston actuation circuit has a squeegee type seal). So far it's been only held up by sourcing the conical bearings, still trying to find a few misc parts too.

The Rear diff has been much more challenging so far. It has this centrally mounted caged ball bearing thing that I can hardly describe let alone source. They do it so ATF won't leak into the gear oil side, but unless Mitsu releases these I don't see how we will ever be able to do a full rebuild.

^^^This is what you call a value added member.

hi, what is the available aftermarket product helps to minimize the vibration of the transfercase and differential, and transfer all forces to Wheels with lease damages.

Disco, do you have a shop in SF?

Disco, do you have a shop in SF?

Nope, just my two car garage which is filled with "projects".