It took me forever to create this thread. After having the Autopower Industries Roll bar in my possession for more than 2 months, I finally decided to give it an honest full try to try and install it. I hit a major milestone today....hence this thread.

The first time that I tried to sneak the roll bar into the back of the car, I was able to get one end of it in successfully, but was never able to get the second end in as either the rear door or the Side-skirt (SSS) would come in the way. I also ended up scratching the side-skirt ever do lightly because of my failed attempt.

Well.. today, I decided to give a better try. The first time I tried this, I was severely constrained in space to try and coax the bar into the cabin. So I decided to take off the rear seat. I first moved the front seats all the way to the front. I then removed the rear seat (only the ass part). I then tried to get the roll bar in. I was greeted with the same failure as last time, since the roof was also a limitation at this point.

I then jacked the car up and tried to see if I could get the Side skirt off. Guess what....the fucking Side-Skirt is riveted in. Mist screws in the support brace like any bolt on, but then it staples the actual Side-Skirt cover on to that support brace with rivets.

After wasting an hour trying to figure that piece out, I moved to try and remove the rear door panel. I did not remove the whole door, just the inner plastic black panel. The second foot of the roll bar still would not come in because of the door or the Side-Skirt still coming in the way by about a millimeter. At this point, I said FUCK THIS SHIT and put my foot and some weight on the Side-Skirt. This broke the roll bar's foot clear and before I knew it, The roll bar had slid in! HOORAY!

PS: I did end up scratching the side skirt a little bit though (Picture below). This would be very easy if you do not attempt to do it alone. The bar is HEAVY! I am not a weak guy, but carrying that bar in ungodly positions made me beg for mercy at least a couple of times.

I took the opportunity to completely remove my rear seat and the seat belts. I also took out my trunk panels completely except for the Sub-woofer.

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_4314.jpg

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_4313.jpg

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_4311.jpg

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_4310.jpg

http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_4309-1.jpg

My next step is to actually drill the holes on the floor and the wheel well and screw this biatch in! Although, I don't think I am nearly adept enough to attempt that unless somebody gives me some easy DIY pointers.

At this point, I am just happy I did not have to remove any front seats.

I wish the package came with better instructions for noobs like me!

Good stuff. Those bars look beat to shit to me. Maybe that's just the plastic coming off the, though?

Good stuff. Those bars look beat to shit to me. Maybe that's just the plastic coming off the, though?

Its just the plastic wrapper from the shipping. I did not take it off yet.

FWIW: Autopower only sends them in Black and they explicitly state the possibility of paint damage in shipping and no warranty on the paint.

Lol. Well at least they tell you that. I wish Mitsubishi would have told me that my warranty was void after I took it off the lot from day one lol

Lol. Well at least they tell you that. I wish Mitsubishi would have told me that my warranty was void after I took it off the lot from day one lol

where is the like button when you need it?:priceless:

where is the like button when you need it?:priceless:

When you need a good neighbor, state farm is there, with a warranty! :bowlol:

OMG, all I could think of this morning when I woke up was


MY ASS!
MY BACK!

I was hurting all over for the work on this bar. Seriously, if any of you get this, make sure you have help with installation.

Taking out the front seat makes it a million times easier. I had the exact same experience as you did, then I took the front seat out and it went in with no issues.

Taking out the front seat at the beginning would have saved me two+ hours and a bad back.

You did this on an X? Honestly, the seat was never in my way!

You did this on an X? Honestly, the seat was never in my way!

If you take the front seat out you are able to move it in the opposite way, almost laying it down and letting the other leg come in over the side skirt. ;)

It didn't make sense to me either until I did it and then I did the face palm. :p

Hmm....interesting. Maybe if somebody else in town tries to install this, I can help and properly record the steps.

updates?

updates?

Still looking for tips on installation. I asked a local shop and they quoted 4 to 5 hours @ 90/hr :freak:. I have the whole winter ahead of me to figure this out. So I'm in no hurry.

subbed for updates

How does one go about removing the floor carpet? Do I just rip it off or is there a simpler way?

Here's a how-to on the evo 9

http://forums.evolutionm.net/interior-exterior-electrical/533574-diy-removing-asphalt-carpet-noise-damping-mats-w-exact-weight-reduction-s.html

How does one go about removing the floor carpet? Do I just rip it off or is there a simpler way?

Here's a how-to on the evo 9

http://forums.evolutionm.net/interior-exterior-electrical/533574-diy-removing-asphalt-carpet-noise-damping-mats-w-exact-weight-reduction-s.html

The carpet or the sound deadeners? Carpet comes right out. Sound deadeners use dry ice like in that how to.

Still a pain in the ass.

Do you have the part number for the bar? I might be in need of a roll bar and that one im looking at is 52951 (street-sport) for the lancer, is that correct?

Do you have the part number for the bar? I might be in need of a roll bar and that one im looking at is 52951 (street-sport) for the lancer, is that correct?

When I ordered mine, there was nothing on the website for it, I had to call and talk to the guys at Autopower for details. I can see tomorrow if I still have the details.

sweet, thanks.

^Sorry Inever got back, but I never found the exact part number.

So I finally chickened out and just had a local shop do the install. I will post pics later this weekend when I am back home....including measurements so that others can self-install. One issue was that the shop ended up using longer bolts than what was provided in the kit since it did not provide enough length to screw in or something like that.

I checked with the installer and he said it was okay to post pictures. Costed me 2 hours labor plus parts. The carpet was also not trimmed, we just installed it over the carpet......which is one of the acceptable ways that AutoPower states this bar can be installed.

I will also be attempting to install my G-Force 5-point FIA2012 harnesses this weekend. Also ordered a Halotron fire extinguisher to mount to the bar. Gonna be an interesting weekend.

When I installed my bar I simply cut an "X" over the carpet where the floor plates went, and removed the carpeting underneath.

Now that I have this installed, I do not see how it can be a safety hazard in DD conditions. I mean, its setup so far behind the driver's seat, how can it even come in contact with the driver is beyond my understanding. Of-course, the intention is not to keep this as a DD anymore, but I question what we often keep reading on the forums.

Pictures of it installed?

Pics will be in this weekend when I am back home to take some.

We used slightly longer bolts for the hoop attachment points to the floor because we left the carpet in and for another important reason. The kit does not come with lock washers. I felt that lock washers were important. We could have probably got the original bolts to work by cutting the carpet and possibly removing sound deadening if present under the location for the main hoop attachment points.

I figured $10 in hardware was worth it being secured properly considering what it's supposed to do! It also gives you the ability to remove the cage and not have an utterly destroyed carpet. Now you just have 8 small holes... ;)

The support bars for the main hoop did not require longer bolts where they bolt up to the rear fender wheels.

We used slightly longer bolts for the hoop attachment points to the floor because we left the carpet in and for another important reason. The kit does not come with lock washers. I felt that lock washers were important. We could have probably got the original bolts to work by cutting the carpet and possibly removing sound deadening if present under the location for the main hoop attachment points.

I figured $10 in hardware was worth it being secured properly considering what it's supposed to do! It also gives you the ability to remove the cage and not have an utterly destroyed carpet. Now you just have 8 small holes... ;)

The support bars for the main hoop did not require longer bolts where they bolt up to the rear fender wheels.

If this is the same PharmEcis that did finesse49's work (He'll know who I'm talking about), I can definitely say you put the install in the right hands... always quality work.

BTW, I do have the pics, just been too lazy to upload them. sigh! This weekend fo shue!

If this is the same PharmEcis that did finesse49's work (He'll know who I'm talking about), I can definitely say you put the install in the right hands... always quality work.

Thanks, and yes this is Greg @ UCS Performance.

How big is the gap between the top of the main hoop and the roof carpet?

Pics. Can people ride in the back

How big is the gap between the top of the main hoop and the roof carpet?

Probably a few millimeters. I should have pics this weekend. Cross my heart......

Pics. Can people ride in the back

No, they cannot. This is not just a Harness bar, its a full Roll bar. I would NEVER allow people to sit in there.....even if they wore helmets. Not to mention, it will be a total bitch to get in and out of the rear.

Pics. Can people ride in the back

Sure, if they don't want to be restrained by seat belts, aren't worried that there is no rear seat cushions and aren't concerned that if you stop real hard they are flying into steel bars etc.

Hope you get pics up this weekend! I'm looking into possibly their race roll bar with removable x-bar.

Why would it be bad if it is scca certified?

Hope you get pics up this weekend! I'm looking into possibly their race roll bar with removable x-bar.

Don't think the removable X Bar version is SCCA certified. Better check on that. Pics will be up. I am travelling back home tonight.

Pics as promised, better late than never.

Passenger side floor mount
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_5581.jpg

Driver-side rear wheel well mounting
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_5584.jpg

How close the bar is to the top (No hair-cuttery jokes :P). The distance is a little less than the thickness of the FAST Key by about 1~2 mm.
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_5586.jpg

Passenger side under floor mount
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_5589.jpg

Passenger side rear-wheel well mount
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_5590.jpg

Driver side floor mount
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss168/catalystgod/Autopower%20Roll%20Bar/IMG_5592.jpg

That does sit back pretty far. Looks good!

Do you have any pictures showing the whole thing?

did you double nut the studs under the car? I would just as a safety precaution.

That does sit back pretty far. Looks good!

Do you have any pictures showing the whole thing?

Damn! its never enough is it? You greedy bastards. JK . I will get some this weekend from outside if possible.

did you double nut the studs under the car? I would just as a safety precaution.

It doesn't look like he did, but he did use lock washers instead of using the supplied washers.

Nice, looks good. I had a really bad experience with a bolt in cage on my Healey track car where the nuts came off and the backing plate was being held on with just 1 nut (this one had three bolts). These where with lock washers. Fellow racers clued me in on safety wire, it really does work:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SAFETYWIRE

Nylock nuts are good too.

Good to know disco, thanks for the heads up. I will look into it.

Any new pictures?

Nice, looks good. I had a really bad experience with a bolt in cage on my Healey track car where the nuts came off and the backing plate was being held on with just 1 nut (this one had three bolts). These where with lock washers. Fellow racers clued me in on safety wire, it really does work:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SAFETYWIRE

Nylock nuts are good too.

Thats why I suggested the double nut technique ;)

Here are some pics from my autopower install yesterday. I did have to remove both front seats and rear (were already out). The bar was a tight fit to get in and it definately matters which side faces down when bringing it in through the front door opening. Double nuts check, loktight check, we should be ready to run now boys...

http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/nhgraham/2012-03-21_18-49-42_718.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/nhgraham/2012-03-21_18-49-06_262.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/nhgraham/2012-03-21_18-49-19_549.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/nhgraham/2012-03-21_18-49-52_414.jpg
http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l577/nhgraham/2012-03-21_17-55-44_994.jpg