So today I drive nomally (not too agressive, but normal for an EVO owner), then start to accelerate and feel my car stumble, then SES light comes on and the car goes into limp mode.
I go to the garage and pull the code: P0102 - MAF low reading. First I thought it was because my BOV is venting. We clear the code, but it comes right back on. The owner of the garage has an Evo X, so we take his sensor, swap them and all normal.
We check around for the sensor availability, and lots of dealers have them in stock, which is strange. Turns out that failing MAF sensor is a common problem for Evo X. The guy at the garage says that it's the first time ever that he sees the MAF sensor failing (and he specializes in Evos). And guess what, local dealers charge a whooping $1000 for them! So we ordered one from US for 200 :)
I wonder if anyone else had this problem? I remember reading about at least one instance here.

i just had a maf replaced under warranty. 160$ for the part as per invoice. you can buy a rebuilt one . here is the link http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=501&partnum=7450046&a=FR501-7450046. just found out it the same maf sensor as the regular lancer and the 2006 eclipse

mine failed as well. I had to have mine replaced, but apparently the vendor I went through charged me out the ass for it. I paid like $235 for mine...

If this is the same sensor on regular lancers and eclipses then are they having issues with it as well?

Yes, it's the same sensor. I guess it may be a good idea to have a spare in the boot just in case...

I have an extra stock maf if anyone needs it, 100$ shipped

any links to good aftermarket mafs by chance??

:+1:

this thread is from october xD

If your valve was weak and leaked in vacuum than it could have been the cause. Personally I don't believe that the MAF is bad. I think you jump to conclusions too fast.

If your valve was weak and leaked in vacuum than it could have been the cause. Personally I don't believe that the MAF is bad. I think you jump to conclusions too fast.
If you are referring to my case, than it's 100% MAF. Replacing it fixed the problem immidiately. Then we took it apart and the sensor element was indeed broken.

like i said, if anyone needs it, have a maf!!

like i said, if anyone needs it, have a maf!!

for free i'll take it :)
Since mine is gone bad. :(

I'll sell it for a fair price, shoot me a PM if you really want it ROBEVO

mine went bad as well. replaced it free under warranty at southcoast and it was fine,,,,,for awhile then it started trippin again. southcoast tells me that mitsubishi is aware of the problem and working on it. Can you say lemon law.:wtfsign:

Mine just went...WTF. :(

oh snap... dont wanna be dealing with this nonsense... maybe time to buy a spare one..

To the guys who have had this issue - are you running stock intake setups?

To the guys who have had this issue - are you running stock intake setups?

Everyone who I have talked to that has blown their MAF have been running the stock intake boxes. WTF??? Didn't you just change out you intake Dino???

Mine went with stock intake and HKS filter.

This isn't oil from filter related problem or stuff like that is it?

So if you have this happen and they refuse to fix at the dealer, send your GF to get one of the cars listed above and test drive it. Have yours out and ready to swap when she shows up. Then when she limps it back to the dealer and bitches them out for what a piece of crap it is you can feel good about the swift kick to the nuts you just gave them :thumbup:

I had to do this when my MAF went out on my 3000GT, one they had just replaced for $400 a month before.

To the guys who have had this issue - are you running stock intake setups?


Mine went bad with the AEM intake...dealer didn't cover it and i bought a regular lancer MAF..works great

Mine went bad with the AEM intake...dealer didn't cover it and i bought a regular lancer MAF..works great


How much are the MAF sensors going for???

How much are the MAF sensors going for???


well the dealer down here said "special order evolution part". 500. lol!!!!! So I just bought the regular lancer MAF instead. 198

What are the symtoms of bad MAF? is the car still driveable or would it just have lumpy idle and fuel cut at low revs?

What are the symtoms of bad MAF? is the car still driveable or would it just have lumpy idle and fuel cut at low revs?

Popping sputtering, no throttle responce, you can really tell when it goes.

Everyone who I have talked to that has blown their MAF have been running the stock intake boxes. WTF??? Didn't you just change out you intake Dino???

My CAI has been off of the car for weeks...so that wasn't the culprit. These MAFs have issues. I hope they cover it under warranty.

What are the symtoms of bad MAF? is the car still driveable or would it just have lumpy idle and fuel cut at low revs?

The A:F ratios are all over the place (which you can see if you have a wideband) and the idle (in my case, at least) is around 2200rpm...very annoying.

At first, I figured the crazy idle and such was due to something that I did, but after clearing the CELs and even disconnecting the battery multiple times, it became obvious that it was a hardware issue. P0102 would pop on within a second of starting it, even from a battery reset.

yea mine went bad around 2k miles with just an hks drop in. i had to turn my car back to stock for them to change the maf cause they said my exhaust and ic piping causes my maf to fail...yea right

so i took it back to stock, and they replaced it for me, just a hassle to uninstall mods that doesnt cause the failure.

We should start a list of how many miles were on the sensor when it went out.

why is the dealer not honoring so many of these? if it fails its under warranty i would think or is it a mod problem?

We should start a list of how many miles were on the sensor when it went out.


<--11K here.

i had two fail and throw codes and limp mode, mitsubishi is "working on it"

The A:F ratios are all over the place (which you can see if you have a wideband) and the idle (in my case, at least) is around 2200rpm...very annoying.

At first, I figured the crazy idle and such was due to something that I did, but after clearing the CELs and even disconnecting the battery multiple times, it became obvious that it was a hardware issue. P0102 would pop on within a second of starting it, even from a battery reset.

Hmm i have very high idle when i go wot... could this be the issue? and also the car sputters at around 5500 rpms every like 50 miles....

i had two fail and throw codes and limp mode, mitsubishi is "working on it"


Jesus...

Hmm i have very high idle when i go wot... could this be the issue? and also the car sputters at around 5500 rpms every like 50 miles....
No, it's not MAF. If it were, you would have CEL and very low power output from the engine.

Here's my tale.

Monday I took my car in (by appointment) to have them look into the issue with the MAF. Four hours later I called them to see what the story was. The service manager said that I didn't have P0102 (which I was 100% sure I did), and that I had a CEL from my exhaust (which is half right). He said in order to solve the issue he needed freeze frame data.

I went to pick up the car and scanned the ECU myself. What did I find? P0102, and freeze frame data for it. I showed it to the service manager (not sure how he missed that code). He jotted down the info and said he'd call it in to the "Mitsu Wizards".

I called the dealer today to find out what the story was with the MAF (notice the trend of them not calling me?). They told me that my exhaust was the culprit, and thus they shouldn't even be working on my car. :rolleyes:

He then went on to tell me that the reason that they couldn't scan the code on Monday was because it was "permanently in the ECU" or some garbage that didn't make any sense.

I'm really unhappy with this. There isn't a mod on the planet that should cause a MAF to fail short of something that allows debris to physically contact the hotwire on the MAF. I'll be damned if I'm paying $200 for their design flaw.

What gets me is that if this was something that I caused, I'd man up and take responsibility. But when these things are dying left and right, it's bulldonk.

^^
damn thas some BS
it seems like with all of the problems people are having with the evo x's the dealers try and find ANYWAY to blame it on us owners and not take ownership. i guess that's what happens in a bad economy tho..

Here's my tale.

Monday I took my car in (by appointment) to have them look into the issue with the MAF. Four hours later I called them to see what the story was. The service manager said that I didn't have P0102 (which I was 100% sure I did), and that I had a CEL from my exhaust (which is half right). He said in order to solve the issue he needed freeze frame data.

I went to pick up the car and scanned the ECU myself. What did I find? P0102, and freeze frame data for it. I showed it to the service manager (not sure how he missed that code). He jotted down the info and said he'd call it in to the "Mitsu Wizards".

I called the dealer today to find out what the story was with the MAF (notice the trend of them not calling me?). They told me that my exhaust was the culprit, and thus they shouldn't even be working on my car. :rolleyes:

He then went on to tell me that the reason that they couldn't scan the code on Monday was because it was "permanently in the ECU" or some garbage that didn't make any sense.

I'm really unhappy with this. There isn't a mod on the planet that should cause a MAF to fail short of something that allows debris to physically contact the hotwire on the MAF. I'll be damned if I'm paying $200 for their design flaw.

What gets me is that if this was something that I caused, I'd man up and take responsibility. But when these things are dying left and right, it's bulldonk.


wow.....same exact thing happened to me....execpt I ended up paying the 200 for a new one:whipping:.....keep us updated on what happens...

Maybe the reason behind Mitsubishi making such a restrictive stock air filter was to protect the extra sensitive MAF.

Of all the people experiencing a MAF failure, I wonder how many were running an aftermarket air filter or an oil impregnated air filter at the time?

if the sensor fail on stock car...will they change it under warranty?

Maybe the reason behind Mitsubishi making such a restrictive stock air filter was to protect the extra sensitive MAF.

Of all the people experiencing a MAF failure, I wonder how many were running an aftermarket air filter or an oil impregnated air filter at the time?

The "oil on the hotwire" rumor isn't all it's cracked up to be. K&N did a study on it, and published the findings awhile back.

That said, no MAF should just break like these do. It's a design or manufacturing flaw, period.

if the sensor fail on stock car...will they change it under warranty?

They should, but whether they will or not is another story.

just talked to my mistu service manager if he heard about faulty maf's....hasnt heard anything & said not to believe everything i read on the internet forums??? lol, what a shmuck!!!149.99 for a new one he quoted! dont understand why some of you guys are payin 200 plus???

LOL, I love the service managers who say "don't believe what you read online". More often than not, if 100 people online are complaining about an issue, it's legit.

That said, $150 for a new one is a steal.

So here are the codes I just threw up in order by recived.
I got these two first;
P1235
U0167

Once I cleared those I drove a little more and this came up;
P0101

After I cleared that one this came up;
P0102
That one wouldn't clear...

Also on my car I am running 26psi, tapering to 19.2 @ REDLINE.
I am also running the stock box with an HKS drop in.
I have 5250 miles on my car, so its a little early for electronics to go out.

So I went down today and bought one from the local salvage yard. They couldn't pull it up by 08 Evo, or the mitsu part number but I cross referenced it with some eBay sellers. Here is cars we can take these from;
LANCER 02
LANCER 03 exc. Evolution
LANCER 04-06 exc. Evolution; 2.0L (4 cyl)
MIRAGE 98-02 (1.8L)
MONTERO SPORT 97-99 2.4L (4 cyl)

You notice the other evolutions are excluded? They carry a different MAF than lancers the same years. Im starting to wonder if its the boost pressure thats killing these. Just the boost pushing moisture up into the electronics frying them out.

So your sensor died too?

Yep, fixed it for $100 bucks though now all I have to do is find a company that rebuilds them.

So mine just went to. Same 2200 rpm idle like dinos. What did you end up doing with yours dino ?

I have the hks dropin, and now I'm worried I fix but it will happen again. 200 a wack is pricey. I got a quote of 157 plus tax and shipping from russm.

Ideas?

Also is there a quality or performance model to buy that won't break?

yea my MAF was messin up too rightt after i got a tune but i got it fixed. then after i got my BOV the light came on again until i adjusted my BOV. i was pushin the P1235 code tho.

This is getting ridiculous. I hope we can get this sorted out. Where can we all complain to and get something done about this? We should all raise our voices about it or nothing will ever happen.

This is getting ridiculous. I hope we can get this sorted out. Where can we all complain to and get something done about this? We should all raise our voices about it or nothing will ever happen.


1-866-876-3018.




http://mitsubishicarscom.112.2o7.net/b/ss/mitsubishicarscom/1/H.6-pdv-2/s89139897906178?[AQB]&ndh=1&t=11/4/2009%2022%3A32%3A47%201%20240&pageName=xxx.contact&g=http%3A//www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/contact.do&r=http%3A//www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/index.do&cc=USD&ch=contact&server=prod1&pid=xxx.index&pidt=1&oid=http%3A//www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/contact.do&ot=A&oi=22&s=1280x1024&c=32&j=1.3&v=Y&k=Y&bw=1280&bh=887&ct=lan&hp=N&[AQE]

1-866-876-3018.

Calling them is like
:deadhorse:

1-866-876-3018.




http://mitsubishicarscom.112.2o7.net/b/ss/mitsubishicarscom/1/H.6-pdv-2/s89139897906178?%5BAQB%5D&ndh=1&t=11/4/2009%2022%3A32%3A47%201%20240&pageName=xxx.contact&g=http%3A//www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/contact.do&r=http%3A//www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/index.do&cc=USD&ch=contact&server=prod1&pid=xxx.index&pidt=1&oid=http%3A//www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/contact.do&ot=A&oi=22&s=1280x1024&c=32&j=1.3&v=Y&k=Y&bw=1280&bh=887&ct=lan&hp=N&%5BAQE%5D


MMNA?

It's sad that because of the car I came from I am fully prepared for a yearly MAF replacement...sigh.. It got so bad on my Audi TT that Audi eventually repaid almost everyone that had replaced a faulty MAF on their own dime. Took years, though.

Thought I was going a step up :)

Someone else mentioned it but I concur, I'd like to see a compiled list of miles when peoples' MAFs go bad. If you posted your MAF went bad but not the mileage please let us know so we can keep track.

Someone else mentioned it but I concur, I'd like to see a compiled list of miles when peoples' MAFs go bad. If you posted your MAF went bad but not the mileage please let us know so we can keep track.

I'd also like to know what intake they were running when their MAF went south.

6100 miles, hks dropin, 3k on filter

I think most people who are having problems have drop-in filters. Perhaps insufficient air filtering allowing contaminants into the air stream or oiled filters (HKS, K&N, Works etc.) I have had a few MAF sensors go bad from K&N filter oil on my SR20DET back in the day.

Anyone have a MAF go bad on a totally stock car with the stock air filter?

I think most people who are having problems have drop-in filters. Perhaps insufficient air filtering allowing contaminants into the air stream or oiled filters (HKS, K&N, Works etc.) I have had a few MAF sensors go bad from K&N filter oil on my SR20DET back in the day.

Anyone have a MAF go bad on a totally stock car with the stock air filter?

There is no oil on the HKS drop in.

I'd also like to know what intake they were running when their MAF went south.

Miles
Intake type
Boost level

I have a funny feeling amount of boost has something to do with it.

Does the HKS have insufficient filtering?

Take a look at this filtering test:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

The foam and K&N filters do not filter as well as the dry cotton-based filter. Based on my past experieces with MAF sensors going bad, these are the only types I use. (Blitz, Apexi, Ralliart etc.)

hmm, maybe i should get a new filter when its used up then.. Will i need a retune if i change to a dry paper or something and who makes a dry paper dropin?

hmm, maybe i should get a new filter when its used up then.. Will i need a retune if i change to a dry paper or something and who makes a dry paper dropin?

The Ralliart drop in is dry.

My next intake will be the AEM that has a dry cone.

The stock paper filter is actually one of the best at filtering out stuff. Of course it is also the most restrictive to air flow...

I just got a check engine light on the way to work and my rev is hanging at 2k rpm. I havent pulled the codes yet until I go home.

4600 miles
running the Apexi dry cone filter

My next intake will be the AEM that has a dry cone.


The SpeedCircuit CAI uses an AEM dryflow cone.

My sensor took a shit last night! I'm starting to think if the HKS has something to do with it... i wonder if i should replace it with a k&n

Mine failed too, replaced it under warranty, no charge, but my dealership won't replace it free if you have CAI. New MAF has no problems, so maybe the newer ones are better.

My sensor took a shit last night! I'm starting to think if the HKS has something to do with it... i wonder if i should replace it with a k&n

I don't think it's the HKS itself, for me I know it has to do with weather since I live in FL, when it rains all night, everything under my hood is soaked, so I'm sure I sucked in a little bit of water which is harmless(except to the MAF). But I just got the Perrin drop in, which filters better than the HKS, and will probably keep more moisture out as well.

Eventually i'll get the Perrin DIF... then i'll be all Perrin'd out.. lawl.

Eventually i'll get the Perrin DIF... then i'll be all Perrin'd out.. lawl.

Ha ha yeah I wanna be all Perrined out too, Perrin turbo pipe is next.

So last night I decided to inspect all my plugs and the MAF sensor, and measured the voltage of the fuel pump relay, which all looked fine and operational. I erased the P1235 code with my Cobb AP and took the car for a spin. So far no codes. I guess the weather had something to do with the P1235 to pop up :innocent: . I may just buy a spare MAF sensor just in case it fails at the track.

Mods:
Full 02/DP-TBE, IC pipping, Apexi dry cone filter, COBB AP tune.

So last night I decided to inspect all my plugs and the MAF sensor, and measured the voltage of the fuel pump relay, which all looked fine and operational. I erased the P1235 code with my Cobb AP and took the car for a spin. So far no codes. I guess the weather had something to do with the P1235 to pop up :innocent: . I may just buy a spare MAF sensor just in case it fails at the track.

Mods:
Full 02/DP-TBE, IC pipping, Apexi dry cone filter, COBB AP tune.

Mine went on and off for awhile before it finally just died.

Also if you are in need of a MAF and you want new not junk yard, check out NAPA.
$109 with a $44 core, thats a pretty good deal ---> junkyard prices for rebuilt.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NEC&PartNumber=XTP450046&Description=Mass+Air+Flow+(MAF)+Sensor+-+Remfd (http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NEC&PartNumber=XTP450046&Description=Mass+Air+Flow+(MAF)+Sensor+-+Remfd)

Are any of you having MAF failures without any CELs? I'm in the midst of trying to diagnose my turbo issues and I "think" the MAF may be the culprit.

Just curious to see if the MAF can be screwing up without producing a CEL.

Mine went on and off for awhile before it finally just died.

Also if you are in need of a MAF and you want new not junk yard, check out NAPA.
$109 with a $44 core, thats a pretty good deal ---> junkyard prices for rebuilt.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NEC&PartNumber=XTP450046&Description=Mass+Air+Flow+(MAF)+Sensor+-+Remfd (http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NEC&PartNumber=XTP450046&Description=Mass+Air+Flow+(MAF)+Sensor+-+Remfd)


Just verifying; that's the correct one right?

me too , fixed under warranty. no more problems.

Just verifying; that's the correct one right?

Yep, thats it.

What are you guys all doing wrong to break the MAF? Did you tighten it down to much, maybe get oil from the filter on it... How clean is it after 1 freeway drive. maybe you need a better filter. If you have a tune did they mess with the sensor voltage or reading range... There are to many variables here.

22k miles
AEM intake & dry filter
Wastegate mod
AMS ICP's
Legamax turboback

NO MAF issues & everyone I know with an X is around 20k-25k miles with the original MAF.

What are you guys all doing wrong to break the MAF? Did you tighten it down to much, maybe get oil from the filter on it... How clean is it after 1 freeway drive. maybe you need a better filter. If you have a tune did they mess with the sensor voltage or reading range... There are to many variables here.

22k miles
AEM intake & dry filter
Wastegate mod
AMS ICP's
Legamax turboback

NO MAF issues & everyone I know with an X is around 20k-25k miles with the original MAF.

No, several Mitsubishi dealers themselves have admitted that there has been an oddly high number of MAF failures, it just sucks.

Are any of you having MAF failures without any CELs? I'm in the midst of trying to diagnose my turbo issues and I "think" the MAF may be the culprit.

Just curious to see if the MAF can be screwing up without producing a CEL.


P0102

What are you guys all doing wrong to break the MAF? Did you tighten it down to much, maybe get oil from the filter on it... How clean is it after 1 freeway drive. maybe you need a better filter. If you have a tune did they mess with the sensor voltage or reading range... There are to many variables here.

22k miles
AEM intake & dry filter
Wastegate mod
AMS ICP's
Legamax turboback

NO MAF issues & everyone I know with an X is around 20k-25k miles with the original MAF.

To answer your first question.... Nothing.
Also most of these are going down due to electrical malfunctions not by means of mechanical failure such as overtightening. The unit on these cars is a 2 part item. 1. being the sensor, and 2. the housing. For everyone that has experienced a failure it has been with the sensor. Also if you read through the thread most that have had a failure are all running dry filters, and with very low miles. Cretainly not enough miles to even get the MAF dirty.

i was accelerating in 2nd and the car fell on its face for a second, then came back and the ses light was on and it was idling around 1500. p0102 was stored. i tried to clear it and it came right back. havent been able to swap in a known good maf yet but im pretty sure thats whats wrong. 11,500 miles, about 4000 with the hks drop in filter. 25 psi. Car has been flashed for 7000 miles or so.

I think most people who are having problems have drop-in filters. Perhaps insufficient air filtering allowing contaminants into the air stream or oiled filters (HKS, K&N, Works etc.) I have had a few MAF sensors go bad from K&N filter oil on my SR20DET back in the day.

Anyone have a MAF go bad on a totally stock car with the stock air filter?

Did anyone answer his question?

Mine went @ 7K miles with an HKS drop in. Popped in my stock filter and had it replaced under warranty. Currently at 12.8K miles, so far so good.

Was on the highway this evening in light traffic and looked down to find the service engine soon light had come on. Stopped and started it a couple times since then, the light stays on. Noticed while driving home that in 5th gear, from 70-80 or so, the car accelerates JUST like my old Civic EX used to, and that around town, it seems to not want to go into boost like it would before the light. Will hook it up to a code reader tomorrow. Any ideas in the meantime?
Jmorris1027, my problem seems very similar to your own.

i have perrin but no code yet. they say they use a heavy oil compare to k and n. so it will not be blown away by air to the sensor. but who knows.

Still ok on my 1st MAF Sensor...K&N Panel and Cone filter...and it was dropped once.

Another one with HKS filter, 15K miles, hard 3rd gear pull, stumble, loss of power, 2200 RPM idle, P0102 code that can't be reset.

Going to a local dealer to pick up a new maf tomorrow morning, $206 list, $180ish picked up.
(would of got it for $165 through a dealer my job has an account with, but they were out of stock)
Not even going to bother with warranty, just want to pick it up on my way to work and get it over with.

Anyone local want a free HKS filter? lol

so although i have not seen the P0102 like everyone else has i have seen the P1235 code quite a few times. here's how it went
i bought the tactrix cable about a week after i bought the evo and did some pulls just to log afr's and such and noticed the stock tune absolutely sucked for my car. it had 100miles on it and was running like 9.5's across the board at WOT! we flashed it only playing with the afrs and things got better. i bought just a generic 3" dry cone filter to install on the maf and the first pull popped a P1235. now it was a little colder outside and had been raining so i know things had changed atmospherically. cleared the code and as soon as it went into full boost it did it again. cleared it and as long as i never went above 4k it didnt come back. went and got the ecu data read again just to see where things were on the logs and oh holy crap did i see some disturbing info. i was popping the cel because my load at 4k was already at like 250! my friend flashed it back to stock and then went from there with playing with afr's and we got no light but my load is still at the high 240range. he has an X with just a cobb intake and custom flash and his load never gets over 209 and thats at 22psi. remember im still at only 19psi tapering down to like 12. it seems slow to me but i have felt the car at 25psi before and that was before the filter went on. he said at first it was the filter and i told him that there are dozens of evo's running just the filter with no issues but then i started reading this and thought hey maybe i need a new maf. so i think this week ill put the stock airbox and filter back in and take it in to get the maf swapped. my dealership is pretty cool and knows i know my evo pretty well so they may hook it right on up.

Another one with HKS filter, 15K miles, hard 3rd gear pull, stumble, loss of power, 2200 RPM idle, P0102 code that can't be reset.

Going to a local dealer to pick up a new maf tomorrow morning, $206 list, $180ish picked up.
(would of got it for $165 through a dealer my job has an account with, but they were out of stock)
Not even going to bother with warranty, just want to pick it up on my way to work and get it over with.

Anyone local want a free HKS filter? lol

HKS is no oil but still mess the MAF.

Another one with HKS filter, 15K miles, hard 3rd gear pull, stumble, loss of power, 2200 RPM idle, P0102 code that can't be reset.

Going to a local dealer to pick up a new maf tomorrow morning, $206 list, $180ish picked up.
(would of got it for $165 through a dealer my job has an account with, but they were out of stock)
Not even going to bother with warranty, just want to pick it up on my way to work and get it over with.

Anyone local want a free HKS filter? lol

I replaced my stock panel filter and drove to the dealer, I went to clear the P0102 code before replacing the MAF sensor and also found P0131 and P0137 this morning, which weren't there yesterday before driving home.

Installed the new sensor part # MR985187 and everything is back to normal.

So id unnno bout anyone else but my car has been idling at like 1500 2000 lately and everyone is telling me its the MAF, so if this is the case why when I turn my A/C to full blast the rpms drop back down to normal. Car pulls like a monster still so what direct relationship does the a/c have to the engine rpms?

where can you purchase a new MAF for the evo X. I have looked everywhere and Rockauto on refurbishes em.

just curious to all the evo owners out there that had bad mafs, what kinda of intake/filter where you'll using?

Clean your filter and MAF sensor periodically should help.

just curious to all the evo owners out there that had bad mafs, what kinda of intake/filter where you'll using?

Not to sound like a dick but the other 9 pages of this thread have all that info plus milage etc...

MAF was it and my idle is back to its norm and the car is a MONSTER once again. Thanks knowledgeable evo owners :)

My car is still running like crap, popping and no throttle response and weak on the highway. I am thinking its the MAF again since I saw a whole bunch of oil from the Perrin filter blow into my UICP. However Im not getting a CEL. Is there a cleaner for the MAF? maybe I should try cleaning it and if that doesn't work I could swap it out. Would Mitsu be able to tell if the MAF has problems if there is no CEL?

My car is still running like crap, popping and no throttle response and weak on the highway. I am thinking its the MAF again since I saw a whole bunch of oil from the Perrin filter blow into my UICP. However Im not getting a CEL. Is there a cleaner for the MAF? maybe I should try cleaning it and if that doesn't work I could swap it out. Would Mitsu be able to tell if the MAF has problems if there is no CEL?

Not sure I just went and bought a new one haha, $206.72. Id def try cleaning yours, thats what I did with mine but no dice it was shot.

I just looked at my MAF and it doesn't look dirty at all, no oil, no dirt. Does anyone know if the filter oil can cause the TPS to go bad?

Oil would not effect the TPS.

Try cleaning your MAF with this stuff:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/CRC_MAF_Cleaner.jpg

try some liquid shwartz

My car is still running like crap, popping and no throttle response and weak on the highway. I am thinking its the MAF again since I saw a whole bunch of oil from the Perrin filter blow into my UICP. However Im not getting a CEL. Is there a cleaner for the MAF? maybe I should try cleaning it and if that doesn't work I could swap it out. Would Mitsu be able to tell if the MAF has problems if there is no CEL?

I thought my throttle response and 5th gear acceleration/hwy passing was a bit week too after replacing my maf, but maybe it's just the stock air filter.

The HKS drop in did gain 11whp on the dyno, plus the sounds not there anymore. :(

I was thinking of either ordering an AEM dryflow cone filter or a different drop in filter.

I was also given a free Cobb turbo inlet pipe, but not sure if I should attempt installing it yet, the clamp on the turbo side looks like a pita, besides, not many reviews/info on this mod yet.

Any advice appreciated.

damn after 2000 miles on my 2nd MAF sensor, the P1235 code came up again.... :mad:

damn after 2000 miles on my 2nd MAF sensor, the P1235 code came up again.... :mad:
MR Dan what intake do you have again?

WAT?

MR Dan what intake do you have again?

Apexi cone filter (dry element) with Nisei Intake pipe

Maybe my custom COBB map needs the torque tables adjusted?

22,000 miles

P1235 code, cleared it now i consistantly get P0102 and am in limp mode.

going to flash it back to stock, take off my cone filter and put the airbox back and take it to the dealer tomrrow.

(I called them and they set up an apointment for 2 weeks out, I said "fuck that, loan me a maf untill then and i'll do it, other wise thats ridiculous for a problem that I know how to fix")

we shall see....

FYI, i took my MAF out and inspected it, looks brand new, not even any dirt on it or the plastic housing.... even bought some maf cleaner but didnt use it after seeing how clean it is.

Apexi cone filter (dry element) with Nisei Intake pipe

Maybe my custom COBB map needs the torque tables adjusted?

oh dang, you think it's the nisei intake pipe? did you start having this problem before the nisei intake pipe? i was thinkin about getting this...

I had the nisei pipe prior to the tune so I highly doubt this pipe is causing the issue. Im going to see my tuner this week and hopefully check the maps.

damn after 2000 miles on my 2nd MAF sensor, the P1235 code came up again.... :mad:

P1235 is pretty normal after a tune. The tuner needs to adjust the maps. After my initial tune, I had to go back 4 times to get touch ups until the maps were solid. Also, the Evo X ecu is very complicated and COBB's software doesn't have access to all the maps in the ecu.

22,000 miles

P1235 code, cleared it now i consistantly get P0102 and am in limp mode.

going to flash it back to stock, take off my cone filter and put the airbox back and take it to the dealer tomrrow.

(I called them and they set up an apointment for 2 weeks out, I said "fuck that, loan me a maf untill then and i'll do it, other wise thats ridiculous for a problem that I know how to fix")

we shall see....

FYI, i took my MAF out and inspected it, looks brand new, not even any dirt on it or the plastic housing.... even bought some maf cleaner but didnt use it after seeing how clean it is.

Mitsubishi won't cover it, there was a slight ding on the maf sensor metal "blade" and the maf was reading zero,,, so now I'm in the market for a new maf

P1235 is pretty normal after a tune. The tuner needs to adjust the maps. After my initial tune, I had to go back 4 times to get touch ups until the maps were solid. Also, the Evo X ecu is very complicated and COBB's software doesn't have access to all the maps in the ecu.

So the COBB custom tuning software cannot completely fix the issue then?

So the COBB custom tuning software cannot completely fix the issue then?

The Cobb software should be able to fix it. It is really up to the tuner to set the limit maps.

A lot of factors will affect the tune as well so if the temp, air mixture, altitude, gas etc. even is different than when you got tuned, it might cause a CEL. If you just happen to hit a part of the map that the tuner did not touch or modify appropriately, the ECU will freak out because it doesn't know what to do. That's why Mitsubishi is so conservative in their tuning to account for everything that might happen. Be happy the limiters are there to give you a CEL rather than blindly following the program and cause more permanent damage.

24k miles. I think my MAF is going bad. Highway it runs like dog shit and is super lean and wont go above 17 psi.

Mitsubishi won't cover it, there was a slight ding on the maf sensor metal "blade" and the maf was reading zero,,, so now I'm in the market for a new maf

WTF? Your car is pretty much stock right and they didn't cover it? Did they say you dropped it or something? This is Hawaiianguy BTW.

WTF? Your car is pretty much stock right and they didn't cover it? Did they say you dropped it or something? This is Hawaiianguy BTW.

they said I damaged it some how, pointing to the defect on the blade of the maf.

honestly I had a cone filter on there that didnt fit super tight, so I can see this possibly being the case, I'm going to inspect my new maf (that I just bought) and if it has the same thing they pointed out to me (and works) i'll go in and raise hell, but if I did some how damage it (and this is like a minor disturbance in the blade, BARELY visible) then I'll take the hit on this.

I'm just pissed that they didnt have one in stock, went with a remanufactured one from a link on the 1st page of this thread.


24k miles. I think my MAF is going bad. Highway it runs like dog shit and is super lean and wont go above 17 psi.

you'll have an SES light and the car wont go above 4psi (or so) and will idle at like 2.2k or 1.8k, or bounce between the two.

you WILL KNOW (not "think" or "guess")when this happens.

our MAF is on all these vehicles:

MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GS(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT-P 2008
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SE 2008
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GS(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GT(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GT-P 2008
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR 2004
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR LIMITED(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR LS(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR SE(2007 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR XLS 2005
MITSUBISHI GALANT 2004
MITSUBISHI GALANT DE(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI GALANT ES(2005 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI GALANT GTS(2005 - 2007)
MITSUBISHI GALANT LS(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI GALANT RALLIART(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI GALANT SPORT EDITION 2009
MITSUBISHI GALANT SPORT V6 2009
MITSUBISHI LANCER DE(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER ES(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION GSR 2008
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION MR 2008
MITSUBISHI LANCER GTS(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER RALLIART(2004 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER SPORTBACK 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER ES(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LIMITED(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LS(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SE(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER XLS(2005 - 2009)



Update: the refurbashers didnt have anything in stock, so since it would take so long and all the back and forth, bla bla. I just ordered one from mitsu. 206 with a "super hook up" or so i'm told.

... I just ordered one from mitsu. 206 with a "super hook up" or so i'm told.

$206 is list price! :(

you'll have an SES light and the car wont go above 4psi (or so) and will idle at like 2.2k or 1.8k, or bounce between the two.

you WILL KNOW (not "think" or "guess")when this happens.


That's for a failed MAF though. What about one that is just "dirty" or not working 100%?

Sometimes my car works fine, the power is ALL there. Then (and seeing it more frequently now) the car will just be missing 70hp or so and seemed bogged down.

$206 is list price! :(

which is an awsome deal for alaska... haha

everything is more expensive here :confused2:

which is an awsome deal for alaska... haha

everything is more expensive here :confused2:

oh...true, didn't notice. AK.and HI. people are screwed. :(

Anyone selling or has link where i can get MAF sensor from? I need it shipped to AUS :).

im thinking ditching EcuTek tune and getting Autronics ECU and F*ck that Maf sensor off.

I took my car to an automatic wash earlier this morning. Water blasted from underneath like a mofo. After the wash, code came up. I reset the ecu, so far no issues. But when the code was up i was idling around 2000 rpm.. drove about 11 miles after..... all is good. I have the perrin drop in.

Sounds like your maf just got wet. You should be fine.

I'm on my 3'e MAF with 12k miles.. I have ecuflash to 410hp/500nm. Standard intake with HKS dropin..

I did take one apart and measured it and could not find anything wrong electrically.. So it myst be the sensing element the cant handle the higher flow of air.. Pic 2 makes it pretty obvious :-/

I'm on my 3'e MAF with 12k miles.. I have ecuflash to 410hp/500nm. Standard intake with HKS dropin..

I did take one apart and measured it and could not find anything wrong electrically.. So it myst be the sensing element the cant handle the higher flow of air.. Pic 2 makes it pretty obvious :-/

Why do you assume the MAF's are bad? What code are you getting?

Why do you assume the MAF's are bad? What code are you getting?

I don't the possibillity read codes.. But everytime the SES light comes on, it goes away when I replace the MAF. My friend also have gone through three MAF's with HKS drop in and a blouch dominatior 2.

I have EcuTek not Ecuflash. Sorry for my mistake.

It may be worth your while to have the codes scanned @ auto zone or something because the codes and light will pop up just for a little overboost.

It may be worth your while to have the codes scanned @ auto zone or something because the codes and light will pop up just for a little overboost.


Is it possible to erase the codes without a special tool? Like lifting ground for some time?

Everytime the SES has come on it's been on the track during full attack..

I've had an hks drop in for like 6 moths then upgraded to a aem intake....I've had my x for over 1 1/2 years now and my MAF is still good (knocks on wood). You sure it has to do with too much air flow?

Is it possible to erase the codes without a special tool? Like lifting ground for some time?

Everytime the SES has come on it's been on the track during full attack..

Lets test the theory and see if we can save you some money. If its coming on durring a track day I am more inclined to say that its a boost spike issue when the car is hot and trying to reach load.

Unplug your maf, start and drive your car (Dont get into it) and wait for the light to come on. Should only take a minute for it to show up. Then plug the MAF back in and un hook the positive side of the battery, hold the brakes down for 30 second, and leave the car sit for 15 minutes. Hook everything back up start and see if its gone. You may have 3 good working MAF's.

Lets test the theory and see if we can save you some money. If its coming on durring a track day I am more inclined to say that its a boost spike issue when the car is hot and trying to reach load.

Unplug your maf, start and drive your car (Dont get into it) and wait for the light to come on. Should only take a minute for it to show up. Then plug the MAF back in and un hook the positive side of the battery, hold the brakes down for 30 second, and leave the car sit for 15 minutes. Hook everything back up start and see if its gone. You may have 3 good working MAF's.

Do what he says if you get a chance and report back. I really want to know what the issue is with the MAFS. Does anyone know if a MAF has failed on a stock air box without a drop in?

Lets test the theory and see if we can save you some money. If its coming on durring a track day I am more inclined to say that its a boost spike issue when the car is hot and trying to reach load.

Unplug your maf, start and drive your car (Dont get into it) and wait for the light to come on. Should only take a minute for it to show up. Then plug the MAF back in and un hook the positive side of the battery, hold the brakes down for 30 second, and leave the car sit for 15 minutes. Hook everything back up start and see if its gone. You may have 3 good working MAF's.


Ok, I did as you described and the light went away, but came back after about 15-20 sec. I was only on idle at that time.. Took it for a spin down to the store and light stayed on all time.

If the light comes on becouse of boost spikes they wouldn't go away when I replace the MAF? I usualy dont lift ground when changing MAf's.

I have bought second hand MAF's from outlander and the sensing element have all been different. Some have a square hole in the middle and some not. In the pic I attached before you can see the square hole in the sensing element. Dont know if that matters thou..

There must be away to solve this or alteast understand why they break so easy.. Good thing MAF at Mitsu in Sweden are close to $900.. The money spent on MAF's could soon have bought AEM/Motec/GEMS ecu and problem would have been solved :-)

Ok, I did as you described and the light went away, but came back after about 15-20 sec. I was only on idle at that time.. Took it for a spin down to the store and light stayed on all time.

If the light comes on becouse of boost spikes they wouldn't go away when I replace the MAF? I usualy dont lift ground when changing MAf's.

I have bought second hand MAF's from outlander and the sensing element have all been different. Some have a square hole in the middle and some not. In the pic I attached before you can see the square hole in the sensing element. Dont know if that matters thou..

There must be away to solve this or alteast understand why they break so easy.. Good thing MAF at Mitsu in Sweden are close to $900.. The money spent on MAF's could soon have bought AEM/Motec/GEMS ecu and problem would have been solved :-)


Jesus I feel you man, sounding very spendy.
Also yes, if the light comes back on at idle its done for.
As far as what your paying maybe you can get these shipped to you?
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NEC&PartNumber=XTP450046&Description=Mass+Air+Flow+(MAF)+Sensor+-+Remfd

Comes to about $109 + shipping with the core (You pay one $153 to start and get the $44 refunded when they get the core) and it sounds like you have a few of them. I think our best bet is to find one of the rebuilders and have them look to see why ours are failing and if they can make them stronger.

HKS drop in here , the P0102 just went on :) lol

I had the HKS filter and a bad MAF, it's the HKS drop-in doing the damage imo. Too many incidents.

u,,,yeah i found out that now 4 guyz faced the same problem with the hks drop in :(

Had this happen to my Evo X MR. The dealer had a pile of the MAF's in stock, I said WOW what a coincidence and the parts guy laughed.

Problem - P0102 code
Solution - Replace MAF

HKS filter requires replacement from time to time in order to keep the filtration at its best.

new MAF installed , problem solved

Whenever you put an intake or highflow filter (low filtration) you're MAF sensor will most likely fail. If you're lucky, then you can clean in with MAF cleaner (posted above) and it could fix it.. But the second you touch the actual sensor, it's fucked. It's done. It happens on all cars when they're modifed with an intake or highflow filter.

It happened with my lexus when i put an intake on it.. happened to my friends mustang, another friends bmw, and about 4 other people i know who mod their cars.

If you buy an intake, then you should expect your MAF sensor to fail.. It wont fail right then an there, but if the filtration isn't as high as the stock filter, it'll get clogged up with dirt within a month and prolly fail. Be prepared, buy an extra MAF just in case.. it's probably one of the most important part of your car, next to a sparkplug..

So I read these 15 pages of MAFs drama and I'm trying to come to a conclusion here. The MAFs are going bad due to the Filter. Is that the problem?Why is HowieWowie on 1 or so and still hasn't had to change his MAFs?

Whenever you put an intake or highflow filter (low filtration) you're MAF sensor will most likely fail. If you're lucky, then you can clean in with MAF cleaner (posted above) and it could fix it.. But the second you touch the actual sensor, it's fucked. It's done. It happens on all cars when they're modifed with an intake or highflow filter.

It happened with my lexus when i put an intake on it.. happened to my friends mustang, another friends bmw, and about 4 other people i know who mod their cars.

If you buy an intake, then you should expect your MAF sensor to fail.. It wont fail right then an there, but if the filtration isn't as high as the stock filter, it'll get clogged up with dirt within a month and prolly fail. Be prepared, buy an extra MAF just in case.. it's probably one of the most important part of your car, next to a sparkplug..


Perhaps... But I never had a problem with my Celica's MAF. I had an CAI on it for years and it never went bad. How many people drive cars with a drop in or or a CAI or something without a problem? Did the previous EVOs have this problem?

Perhaps... But I never had a problem with my Celica's MAF. I had an CAI on it for years and it never went bad. How many people drive cars with a drop in or or a CAI or something without a problem? Did the previous EVOs have this problem?

2nd that, my previous two cars had a CAI and SRI intake with high flow filters and no problems for years. Maybe the evo maf is different? :)

some maf sensors are more sensitive, some are more prrone to getting dirty .. it all really depends on the year and make. but in general most mafs wont be happy with the change of filtration and will throw out some codes or fail. also, never remove your maf when the car has been running. let the car cool down by popping your hood for like 15 min.

I have had my AMS intake on for quite sometime now and it has not gone bad. Its been over a year at least. I think it just depends. Is there an alternative to these mafs going out? An upgrade?

....Is there an alternative to these mafs going out? An upgrade?
No.. There's no such thing as a performance MAF sensor LOL:p

It's like "upgrading" your battery.. Yea sure you can replace it with a battery that holds more power, but if the alternator can't keep up.. It's completely useless.. kinda the same thing with a MAF.. It's designed to work with the the stock airbox perfectly and should never fail.. (if you change filters periodically) But when you decide to put on an intake, it might fail or get pissed off:ghey:
Not saying you shouldn't put on an intake.. This car is meant to be modified. But you gotta be careful when changing parts that work in conjunction with parts that are extremely sensitive (In this case, a MAF)

i will try to clean my x maf , and put it back and c if it works or no

i will try to clean my x maf , and put it back and c if it works or no
Do you have a volt meter? I think that's what it's called.. If you have one laying around, then check to see if the sensor is concurrent. (meaning no internal wires are "broken" within the unit)
If it is, then you're is HUGE luck.. and the actual sensor is prolly just dirty.. But when you clean it, do not touch it with an object lol.. just spray that MAF cleaner on it, and let it dry -

Mine just went, 16K miles, stock intake & filter, reflash only.

This issue has be caused by debris getting on the sensor that is really sensitive. The best solution would probably be to clean it periodically like any other regular maintenance.

reading all the posts.. seems like im having the same problem.. WOT in 4th and when i shifted to 5th suddenly felt power loss.. boost just wasnt there.. CEL went on.. SSQV went mute.. kept on driving.. idle was around 1.5k-2k rpm in start stop traffic.. continued driving.. engine almost died on the freeway..

10k km, stock intake, ssqv3 bov kit..

i took mine to the dealer, and had my buddy who sold me the car, drive it down to dealer for me, and he cudnt get that "sputtering" "choking" feeling...geez why is it wen u think u have a problem, and u take it took the dealership it mysteriously "disappears" grrrr

im hoping also it just the shit weather we have been having, last week we have been hittin low as -34c over nights, so im going to do more testing as the warmer is gettin a lil warmer

im all stock, except a drop in k&n panel filter..hasnt been oiled at all yet either

oh btw, all you guys that had ur MAF crap out, did a CEL come on? cuz im not gettin none at all..grrrr

I have a maf for sale if anyone wants it $80 shipped.

So I've had my MAF crap out on me twice in the last month and a half. This is starting to get retarded. Only mods I have are a CBE and a HKS drop-in. Either I have bad luck with faulty sensors or I think the HKS may be the problem. I might just switch back to the stock filter for now.

A lot of people with HKS drop-ins had bad MAF sensors, me being one of them.

After reading this whole thread, I am not seeing any posts about the wga. Have any of you tightened your waste gate actuator rod or replaced it with an aftermarket one? Just curious.

I have 19K on my X and still a good MAF

I have 19K on my X and still a good MAF

I have 36k on my X and a fucked up MAF. :rock:

Looking on rockauto.com for a maf sensor.

after the description it reads "Return and Rebuild ONLY - Please Contact Customer Service for More Info}"

Can anyone expand on this? I dont have to send mine in correct?

Looking on rockauto.com for a maf sensor.

after the description it reads "Return and Rebuild ONLY - Please Contact Customer Service for More Info}"

Can anyone expand on this? I dont have to send mine in correct?

I would say from how that reads they are only rebuilding so it would mean you would have to send it in. Earlier in this thread I posted what cars have the same MAF sensors its way cheaper and easier to get your car back to running right with one of them. I got mine out of a junk yard and its working perfectly.

Looks Like Im going to need one next. Got this code on the way home, but my car is running fine.

So I've had my MAF crap out on me twice in the last month and a half. This is starting to get retarded. Only mods I have are a CBE and a HKS drop-in. Either I have bad luck with faulty sensors or I think the HKS may be the problem. I might just switch back to the stock filter for now.

what's wrong with hks filter compare to k and n with oil which others says that oil can mess up the sensor too.

i had a HKS panel filter for 3 miles. Fact i have 2 of them in my basement. I had 3 MAF failure , then i swapped out with the K&N panel filter, 8k miles later still i havent had MAF failure...

Rob did you voltage go to 0 or just decreased voltage?

maybe hks is for track use only, street use so many dust and debris which the hks cannot filter, good flow but not good filtration. i wonder fq400 has it. what is the normal voltage for that maf?

Rob did you voltage go to 0 or just decreased voltage?

hm... i dont really know, first time happened , i did go back to the tuner, and he told me it is a MAF. So i changed it. I did not ask details.
Two other times i was guessing by the symptoms and worked.
I only know the car runs 2000 rpm idle, and i have a SES light, also the car is limited by power.
So some one suggested might be a HKS panel filter, so i got just for curiosity the K&N panel filter. Since then i have a same filter with no MAF problem.
Thats all i know.

Mine along with everyone else's went to 0 and stayed there.
Thats why people couldn't get the code to clear.

i think we should have sticky survey w/c cone filter/drop in causing the MAF to gone bad or maybe it's only the HKS doing it so there is no need for a survey.

I dont know were you guys are finding ones for 206, but from mitsu parts department it 589.00. Im trying to get it warrantied, and they do not have any in stock:(

I dont know were you guys are finding ones for 206, but from mitsu parts department it 589.00. Im trying to get it warrantied, and they do not have any in stock:(

i actually got it around 200 too. From the Mitsubishi dealer.

I dont know were you guys are finding ones for 206, but from mitsu parts department it 589.00. Im trying to get it warrantied, and they do not have any in stock:(

Cause they are trying to sell you the whole set up....tell them you want just the sensor & nothing else. Ask to speak to manager & tell em the service guy is giving you a hard time about buyin a part which has been going bad on the evo since it came out. There are tons of cases with these things going bad & the dealer told me it was 598 & i lost it & low and behold they magically have just the sensor for sale lol.

I might be having the same issue. My car runs fine with light throttle/off boost but as soon as I am at 30% or more throttle the car chugs and backfires? and occasionally throws an SES light. I am going to try cleaning the MAF with some Electrical Contact cleaner to see if that helps. Mods Below

Buschur Catback(Bullet Muffler)
Nisei UICP
AP(Perrin Stg 1 v2)
Perrin Drop In Panel Filter
Ultimate Racing Mini Muffler Test Pipe

On second thought I am starting to wonder if it could be the following...
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14240

Just ordered one for the car. Overnight shipping it was 193.00

Most people seem to be having problems w/ the hks panel. Any feedback on the cosworth panel filter? Is it just the same problems waiting to happen just not enough units sold for the problems to start occurring? I have a cosworth panel filter sitting in my room still thinking about if i should use it and risk having to buy a new maf.

I've gone about 2000 miles with the HKS drop-in and no issues *yet*

My boss has had his in for probably 8000 miles or so and no MAF issues.

I've gone about 2000 miles with the HKS drop-in and no issues *yet*

My boss has had his in for probably 8000 miles or so and no MAF issues.

so it can be some MAF is defective/fragile. some will have problem with HKS,stock filter, a few with K and n and some no problem at all.

Had mine pop in today along with P0137. I have 7K miles on an HKS filter. I don't think we can really count HKS as a culprit yet since we don't know the ratio of HKS drops in per total drops in purchased. If they have like 80%, then they'll show more often.

I'm going to unplug it and try cleaning it first...otherwise I might have to call Napa and Mitsubishi to see what I can grab.

I had hks entire time I had my car. Mine went out about 25k miles. Not sure if you can blame it on hks or not. I will say it doesn't filter very well. Turbo inlet was coated in crap.

My car went into limp mode this morning with the ASC warning and CEL light on after only 2 minutes of driving. I park next door to the dealer at night so I just drove it back to the dealer with my hazard lights on. Service manager tried giving me the run around and wanted to charge me $95.00 for a diagnosis fee. I told him I would reset it myself and so I did...the lights went away and everything seems to be fine now. I did notice yesterday though that the idle seemed to be a little funny...RPMs going extremely low and bouncing up high. I figured it was my Cosworth MX1 Cams. I have a fully built engine, Works Drop In Filter, UICP Pipe, Full Turbo Back Exhaust and so on.

So after resetting it I drove it to work and everything seemed to be fine. Only takes me 10 minutes to get to work. Do you guys think I'll get the same issue again soon? Is it most probably the MAF Sensor?

No if it is the maf the code won't clear at all. It sounds like you are having the torque limit cell. Your tune needs to be adjusted. What is the temp outside??

I live in Southern California and the weather has been great. Yesterday when the idle was funny it was around 80 degrees, which would make sense because it hasn't been that hot since I got the car rebuilt. This morning it was around 55 degrees.

I know it's an old thread but I've read a few pages of it and hollywood was saying some of the code related to the MAF sensor could be link to boost.

Well I can confirm that's true. I have the stock air box, stock filter and this morning due to cold weather and since I'm still tuning the WGDC for the 3 ports, I boosted up to 29 psi twice. That generated a P0101.

I turned everything down a few notches in the WGDC map and it didn't came back on an hour later of driving. Those thing seem to be really sensitive piece of @#$%#@.

Surely if it was the HKS Filter the MAF would fail in the first hundreds of miles? some have done thousands of miles with it?
Is it the panel filter or cone filter causing problems?
Has it happened to UK cars or only cars in the USA?

Surely if it was the HKS Filter the MAF would fail in the first hundreds of miles? some have done thousands of miles with it?
Is it the panel filter or cone filter causing problems?
Has it happened to UK cars or only cars in the USA?

My MAF is not bad, car work just fine but it throw a code due to overboosting in the 30psi really really really quick. That 30 psi matched perfectly with the check engine light coming on.

It's the stock everything lol, filter, box etc....

I was just adding to hollywood questionning that some MAF issue could be linked to boost. I'm pretty sure if I kept the boost as it was and I keep runing it like that I'll get a bunch of P0101 and then the other one for the MAF complete failure that you can't clear.

2010 GSR
HKS drop in for 2-3k miles.
Boost spiked to 27.7 psi (Drove about 1/4 mile) then got P0102.
~70 degrees

*Mods in sig*

2010 GSR
HKS drop in for 2-3k miles.
Boost spiked to 27.7 psi (Drove about 1/4 mile) then got P0102.
~70 degrees

*Mods in sig*

Since sigs change dynamically, I'm pasting a static copy here for reference if someone looks at this in the future.

Stock?'s sig as of this time:
2010 WW GSR SSS
HKS drop-in
Defi BF Boost
Invidia DP+TP
AP Stage 2

The "oil on the hotwire" rumor isn't all it's cracked up to be. K&N did a study on it, and published the findings awhile back.

That said, no MAF should just break like these do. It's a design or manufacturing flaw, period.
i had the k and n but seems like it makes my car got high idling 1500 rpm

the oil problem with k and N is when the car onwer re oil it too much, but from the k and n factory it should not be the problem. that is why im not gonna re oil it, i will just throw and get a new one.

My sensor took a shit last night! I'm starting to think if the HKS has something to do with it... i wonder if i should replace it with a k&n
DONT:mad:

Dealer replaced mine under warranty after I replaced the stock filter... Ugh. Bought Cobb SF intake.

Dealer replaced mine under warranty after I replaced the stock filter... Ugh. Bought Cobb SF intake.


lucky you....

I've had an hks drop in for like 6 moths then upgraded to a aem intake....I've had my x for over 1 1/2 years now and my MAF is still good (knocks on wood). You sure it has to do with too much air flow?
also depends on weather i think

Ive got the AMS intake, had it on for about 8k miles and am now getting a P0101. Should I be looking into replacing the MAF?

Ive got the AMS intake, had it on for about 8k miles and am now getting a P0101. Should I be looking into replacing the MAF?

I have the same code.Did you replacing the MAF?

Man all this talk makes me think I shouldn't have poked at the wires with my greasy fingers when installing my intake.

08 GSR
16.9k miles
ets intake k&n filter
20miles on the filter

Thought I'd chime in for some opinions....

I don't seem to have any of the syptoms mentioned in this thread. But I may have a failing MAF.

What are the symptoms of one that is starting to fail? Does it look like the below?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_C4Ord-MWjFQ/TL-2BHcV0ZI/AAAAAAAAIXQ/jtCs534biNc/s800/LF5.jpg

I'm getting load fluctuations at higher rpm's that I can't fully explain. (where the MAF g/s starts to get ragged)

I would think a failing MAF would look more "limp". As in, it's voltage wouldn't raise as high as it should.

Our MAFs are a hot wire type. The MAF runs a current through the hot wire and the air rushing by cools the wire. The amount of current it takes to maintain a certain resistance tells the ECU how much air is flowing past. As it wears out, it reads less and less air, usually because it is dirty.

I'm having an issue and am not sure if its the MAF or not. Having rough idle and rough cruising speed (sputters around 1/8 throttle). I have the FPR vacuum line zip tied so it's not that, have the new fuel pump relay so it's not that, I haven't thrown a code for the MAF but you think it could be the sensor? My idle is around 700 as well but dips to 500ish and runs lean at time (17.5-18AFR here and there).

Thanks

I'm having an issue and am not sure if its the MAF or not. Having rough idle and rough cruising speed (sputters around 1/8 throttle). I have the FPR vacuum line zip tied so it's not that, have the new fuel pump relay so it's not that, I haven't thrown a code for the MAF but you think it could be the sensor? My idle is around 700 as well but dips to 500ish and runs lean at time (17.5-18AFR here and there).

Thanks

How many miles and what are your mods? Do you have a stock intake or an aftermarket one? I had the same problem, then I cleaned my tiny AEM air filter (about one year old) and all was well.

How many miles and what are your mods? Do you have a stock intake or an aftermarket one? I had the same problem, then I cleaned my tiny AEM air filter (about one year old) and all was well.


I have 29 000 miles, my mods are:

Xtremeboost o2/dp
testpipe
eibach springs
whiteline roll center kit
turbotrix intercooler piping and intake
agency power bov
perrin 3port boost solenoid
Aem uego wideband
ported stock exhaust manifold
egt gauge.
DTM stage 2 intercooler

I do have an aftermarket intake and it's not shielded. You'd suggest to clean it and see what happens after? And wouldn't a dirty air filter cause the car to run rich instead of lean?

I have 29 000 miles, my mods are:

Xtremeboost o2/dp
testpipe
eibach springs
whiteline roll center kit
turbotrix intercooler piping and intake
agency power bov
perrin 3port boost solenoid
Aem uego wideband
ported stock exhaust manifold
egt gauge.
DTM stage 2 intercooler

I do have an aftermarket intake and it's not shielded. You'd suggest to clean it and see what happens after? And wouldn't a dirty air filter cause the car to run rich instead of lean?

You have a lot of mods there. Dumb question, are you tuned?

As for a dirty air filter making the car run richer, all I can say is my car idles smoother since I cleaned the air filter...it was really dirty.

The other thing I would suggest is checking all your intake/intercooler connections.

You have a lot of mods there. Dumb question, are you tuned?

As for a dirty air filter making the car run richer, all I can say is my car idles smoother since I cleaned the air filter...it was really dirty.

The other thing I would suggest is checking all your intake/intercooler connections.


Yes I am tuned, I'll take a look at my connections and my air filter this weekend.

MAF failure today. P0102... 2000 rpm idle... during autocross. I have HKS panel filter (second HKS filter, this one has 5k miles on it), T1R I/C pipes, ETC intercooler, Cobb AP pro-tuned, Perrin TBE. 21k miles. Evo went into limp mode which means no boost. I attempted to clear the code with the AP, no luck. I tried to log my MAF voltage, showed 0.0 which to me confirmed it was dead. I ordered a new MAF sensor from Autozone for $107. I'll try pulling the sensor in the morning to blow it out, but doubt that will work.

I ordered a new MAF sensor from Autozone for $107.

Really? Autozone? Is it a Mitsubishi part?

If it's not, I'd be concerned if it was properly calibrated or not.

You can get a Mitsubishi one from Russell for not that much more...

Really? Autozone? Is it a Mitsubishi part?

If it's not, I'd be concerned if it was properly calibrated or not.

You can get a Mitsubishi one from Russell for not that much more...

Doubt its a Mitsu OEM part for that price ($600 part from dealer). I can tell you that I do have to trade in my OEM core for it or it $50 extra. Also, its specifically listed part number for the Evo X at Autozone. Don't really care who makes it, so long as it works as well as OEM. Thanks for looking out for me though. :thumbup:

Also... the link you provided was for a MAP sensor, but not the MAF. If it was an OEM MAF for that price, I would definitely order the OEM part. Let me know soon, since I don't want to spend forever driving in limp mode.

Also... the link you provided was for a MAP sensor, but not the MAF. If it was an OEM MAF for that price, I would definitely order the OEM part. Let me know soon, since I don't want to spend forever driving in limp mode.

You need the housing as well? You did say "sensor" in your original post.

And here's a used one on ebay for $100:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2008-Lancer-Evolution-X-GSR-Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-MAF-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f03dd560fQQitemZ270647776783QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I got the autozone one the other day and it was a rebuilt OEM piece. I plugged it in, reset my error codes and all was right again.

I think my maf sensor might be going bad but im not getting a p0102 code. My car idles really rough, a/f bouncing everywhere, and im getting a p0103 code which is a mass airflow high input. Any suggestions?

I think my maf sensor might be going bad but im not getting a p0102 code. My car idles really rough, a/f bouncing everywhere, and im getting a p0103 code which is a mass airflow high input. Any suggestions?

clean the MAF sensor and ensure all the connection are still good...if that doesnt work you may need a new one

My car ran a little better after cleaning the MAF sensor, but every so often I get the funky idle until the engine fully warms up.

If I deceide to replace my MAF in the near future, does anyone know if Mitsubishi has an improved MAF out yet, or will I just be buying the same piece of crap?

My car ran a little better after cleaning the MAF sensor, but every so often I get the funky idle until the engine fully warms up.

If I deceide to replace my MAF in the near future, does anyone know if Mitsubishi has an improved MAF out yet, or will I just be buying the same piece of crap?

maybe the same piece of crap...I have not heard any upgrade that is better than OEM

any ideas? it was idling rough so i figured i would try and disconnect the maf sensor. idled fine so i took a video of it and plugged it back in...you can hear after a few seconds the idle starts to bounce around.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmFcn38QlOM

First question: Can the maf start to go slowly? Start giving incorrect voltages without totally not working?

Second question: Ok so the Maf sucks... are we able to install a Map sensor and disable the maf... moving to speed density tuning?

1: The MAF can get dirty and read incorrect values.
2: We have a MAP sensor already, and our cars already run on a speed density / mass air flow hybrid setup.

Wow I need to read more... thanks golden :(

my maf went again today. driving home around 45 mph in 5th gear, drop to 3rd to pass a truck, hit the gas and BOOOOM! Massive flame and brown smoke out the back. I thought i broke the motor, but all seemed well, just safe mode on. Went to oreilly auto parts and bought a new maf sensor. 90 bucks after 40 core return. Identical to original. Hope this will fix it, should know tomorrow.

i read this thread and theirs an unnaturally high correlation of failures and hks panel filter/drop ins. im at 39000 miles and i have the HKS 3 layer dry. should i count my lucky stars or spring for a backup MAF?

I'm thinking that the only thing a filter can contribute to MAF failure is not cleaning incoming air enough and thus the sensor gets dirty. Has anyone tried to clean the MAF sensor when it has failed?

I'm thinking that the only thing a filter can contribute to MAF failure is not cleaning incoming air enough and thus the sensor gets dirty. Has anyone tried to clean the MAF sensor when it has failed?

sorta. I was getting a few "lean" codes every few months when my MAF needed cleaning. Hasn't come back in 6 mths including 4 track days since. A MAF sensor that "fails" might manifest some issue in a number of different ways I'm sure.

I see a lot of people with a lot of different symptoms concerning the MAF. Just wanted to post all of what my symptoms are see what you guys think.

08 GSR 25,000 miles
Getting P0101 code

Put in an HKS drop in about 1000 miles back. Rest of the car is stock.
Car idle is a little off and loss of power at mid and higher rpms.
Still boosting but I hear what sounds like the BOV (stock) doing a lot of venting (sounds like an aftermarket BOV now). Not sure if its coming from the BOV but there is a lot of hissing going on.

Also I ran over a possum on the way to work today sounded like he took my front lip with him but when I got to work it was untouched meaning he hit something hard under the car. I got the code when I left for home after work. I don't see anything knocked loose or out of place but it was dark when I got home so I cant be sure till tomorrow.

Just wonder if that code can come up from dragging a possum to work with me or if thats a coincidence and its probably just the MAF going bad because of the HKS.

Got a P0102 error code. when I start the car, the idle is at 500RPM, sometimes 100RPM, and sometimes it stalls. I took off the MAF wire, cleaned it, and now the RPM starts at 500 and slowly climbs up to its normal level. I tried cleaning the MAF itself, but no difference. Shall I try to clean the throttle body? (heard against it), or shall I just replace the MAF sensor?