What is your experience with these and which one would you buy?

Cobb is a hallow type and makes both front & rear for Evo X.
Works is solid type but only makes the rear for Evo X (designed to work with oem front)

I will be getting Works -0.5" springs to go along with the setup. You input is appreciated.

Here: http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=369842

This guy had an issue with the Works one and chewed up the bushings on the mounts. Works called it installer error and said tough luck basically. Been talking to Cobb about there products and they do care and are helpful it seems. I'm going with Cobb.

Just look at the Works forum...a lot of unhappy customers before and AFTER purchase.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/forumdisplay.php?f=79

Hollow is going to be more rigid than solid. Although I think Cobb has the attitude if they put their name on something it's automatically worth more than anyone elses's and I don't like doing business with places like that.

I've ordered my HKS Kansai sway bars instead :)

I plan to get Cobb rear sway! Looks like a good bar. If only Hotchkis made a sway bar for the X.

no cusco for you?

Nope the Cobb is bigger...well sorta. It's hallow which equals about that of a 27.5mm solid rear sway. Cusco is what 25mm? So Cobb for me....and Works...never! Worst customer service I have ever seen.

I suppose you will incur a lot of oversteer with just the rear bar installed.

For a neutral handling, I recommend having both front and rear.

so ... for the cobb ones... are both hollow? and how does the cobb front compare to the cusco / HKS / Work front? any info is appreciated :)

any weight savings from Works or cobb vs stock?

Does anyone know Cobb swaybar fit the EVO X MR?

Well I got the Cobb rear sway bar for Christmas. I will install after I get the car back from the body shop.

I asked for just the rear as I have encountered under steer a few times at the track and want the car to try to over steer more. So we'll see how it goes and I'll report back when done.

I picked up the front and rear Cobb bars and plan on installing them in the next few weeks. I will post a small review once complete.

I ordered the pair from HKS Kansai and will take several weeks to get here, stay tuned...

looking forward to the reviews from you both!

no one gets whitelines? my subaru buddy swears by them

When I had a Subaru I swore by them too and they were the shit. I decide to go with Cobb this time around. Cost, quality and performance weighed in on my decision. I got some information from a great source.

Sorry to revive this ancient thread, but I did it so I don't get flamed by the "SEARCH" comments lol.
If you have a choice now, which sway bar would you choose to work with 2 or 3 way suspension? whiteline? Hotchkis, HKS, cobb, Cusco, their are many more...

I personally prefer Hotchkis, mainly because of prior experience. I have it on my tC, and it is of good quality. Only problem I've had was when one of the bolts came off, and essentially just have to replace it. Also, they usually come in pairs (front and back), so if you only want the back, you're SOL.

Hotchkis is hollow aswell I believe. Many good things heard from this set.

I personally prefer Hotchkis, mainly because of prior experience. I have it on my tC, and it is of good quality. Only problem I've had was when one of the bolts came off, and essentially just have to replace it. Also, they usually come in pairs (front and back), so if you only want the back, you're SOL.

:+1:
I was thinking of getting hotchkis. I seen this video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjH0c5z_0M8

Hotchkis are bigger as well. When it comes to sways, does "bigger, the better" apply?

Don't waste your money on a front sway, it is not needed. It will only induce more understeer which no Evo needs more of and it is a real bitch to install.

If you want to make the front of your car more stiff go with an upgraded strut brace and an underbrace. They will tighten up your steering response without the sacrifice of more understeer.

Either go cheap and get the Perrin rear sway (which is only cheap in cost, I have it and love it) or go expensive ($100 more than Perrin, but 4 way adjustable) and get the robispec rear sway.

I currently have the Perrin rear bar on my Evo and really love the difference it made to the car to dial it into a very neutral car....however...the front could use a bit more roll stiffness...and that's why I've bought the WORKS swaybar set. I did not want a big front bar that everyone else seems to offer due to xMR's comment above, which is why the WORKS set appealed to me. On the hollow front bar (which reduces some weight), you can set it at only 5% stiffer than the factory 23mm bar, which translates to 24.15mm. This, in theory, will be enough to counteract some of the bodyroll up front without being overkill and driving the car into understeer at the limit. Matched up to the rear solid WORKS bar set in the middle, and the staggered swaybar setup should come out to the equivalent of 24.15mm front, 26mm rear...that's perfect on paper for my driving...and what WORKS recommends.

I currently have the Perrin rear bar on my Evo and really love the difference it made to the car to dial it into a very neutral car....however...the front could use a bit more roll stiffness...and that's why I've bought the WORKS swaybar set. I did not want a big front bar that everyone else seems to offer due to xMR's comment above, which is why the WORKS set appealed to me. On the hollow front bar (which reduces some weight), you can set it at only 5% stiffer than the factory 23mm bar, which translates to 24.15mm. This, in theory, will be enough to counteract some of the bodyroll up front without being overkill and driving the car into understeer at the limit. Matched up to the rear solid WORKS bar set in the middle, and the staggered swaybar setup should come out to the equivalent of 24.15mm front, 26mm rear...that's perfect on paper for my driving...and what WORKS recommends.

The works setup should be a good one. You could just keep the Perrin rear sway though and get a Whiteline front roll center kit. It will help reduce body roll as much or more than a front sway as well as improve front tire traction. Oh, and it costs less than $200 and you should be using it for sure if your car is lowered regardless of whether you run a front sway or not. Remember, as good as Works is, they are still in the business of selling parts needed or not. Selling sway bars in a set makes one think you need both. :)

+1 on the Whiteline Roll Center kit. It makes a noticeable improvement in initial turn in. The car is almost telepathtic in anticipating turns.

I've got Hotchkis bars in both the front and rear. I drove around with just the rear bar on for a couple of weeks and while it is definitely an improvement over the stock set up, I like how the car handles more with both the front and the rear sway bars. The car rolls even less with both bars which I find more confidence inspiring in the turns. That's just me.

Compared to installing a front sway bar on a WRX, it is much harder and time consuming to install a FSB on the EVO. I wish I had paid a shop to do it.

To install the FSB, the Hotchkis instructions say to disconnect the steering shaft so you can lower the subframe far enough to gain clearance to remove the stock bar and install the new bar. If you can avoid disconnecting the steering shaft to get the bar installed do it. Several EVO owners have been able to do this. I had my share of frustrations reconnecting the steering shaft and getting the steering wheel centered. I ended up taking it to the dealer to line it up just right.

In my case, unbeknownst to me the steering shaft had shortened when I had disconnected it. When I finished installing the Hotchkis bar was ready to reconnect the steering wheel shaft to the power steering rack shaft, I could not understand why it would not reach. I now know that the steering shaft is designed to collapse on impact and it's made of two pieces, one goes up the sleeve of the other. For some reason, the shaft had slid upward into the sleeve. I ended up extending the shaft by using a mallet to knock it downward with a screwdriver. Using a mallet and screwdriver isn't something you want to do on an install. Turns out that there is a clamp on the shaft under the dash that when squeezed open with a vice grip allows you to fully extend the shaft downward. That's a topic I wish the Hotchkis installation manual had covered.

+1 on the Whiteline Roll Center kit. It makes a noticeable improvement in initial turn in. The car is almost telepathtic in anticipating turns.

I've got Hotchkis bars in both the front and rear. I drove around with just the rear bar on for a couple of weeks and while it is definitely an improvement over the stock set up, I like how the car handles more with both the front and the rear sway bars. The car rolls even less with both bars which I find more confidence inspiring in the turns. That's just me.

Compared to installing a front sway bar on a WRX, it is much harder and time consuming to install a FSB on the EVO. I wish I had paid a shop to do it.

To install the FSB, the Hotchkis instructions say to disconnect the steering shaft so you can lower the subframe far enough to gain clearance to remove the stock bar and install the new bar. If you can avoid disconnecting the steering shaft to get the bar installed do it. Several EVO owners have been able to do it. I had my share of frustrations reconnecting the steering shaft and getting the steering wheel centered. I ended up taking it to the dealer to line it up just right.

In my case, unbeknownst to me the steering shaft had shortened when I had disconnected it. When I finished installing the Hotchkis bar was ready to reconnect the steering wheel shaft to the power steering rack shaft, I could not understand why it would not reach. I now know that the steering shaft is designed to collapse on impact and it's made of two pieces, one goes up the sleeve of the other. The shaft had slid some upward into the sleeve. I ended up extending the shaft by using a mallet to knock it downward with a screwdriver. Using a mallet and screwdriver isn't something you want to do on an install. Turns out that there is a clamp on the shaft under the dash that when squeezed open with a vice grip allows you to fully extend the shaft downward. That's a topic I wish the Hotchkis installation manual had covered.

I agree with all of this. Front and rear sways make the car feel more planted and inspire confidence. I have the rear set to the stiffest and front to the softest. It has a very neutral feel, but likes to oversteer a bit. I dont mind it really, but I might go to a medium setting in the rear instead of being set to the stiffest to make the car a bit more neutral.

I say there is a benefit to both front and rear bar. But a lot depends on the driving style. Some people prefer more oversteer others a bit more neutral and everyone hates understeer.

The works setup should be a good one. You could just keep the Perrin rear sway though and get a Whiteline front roll center kit. It will help reduce body roll as much or more than a front sway as well as improve front tire traction. Oh, and it costs less than $200 and you should be using it for sure if your car is lowered regardless of whether you run a front sway or not. Remember, as good as Works is, they are still in the business of selling parts needed or not. Selling sway bars in a set makes one think you need both. :)

Good points. My car isn't lowered...I live in the city and the aero kit gets destroyed at the factory ride-height, haha. :) I ran the Whiteline RCA kit on my old STi and noticed what you're describing, but I'm not comfortable with Whiteline products overall. The swaybars rusted terribly, the ALK kit messed up my caster left to right (was .7 degrees off despite measuring out to the same distance from the front control arm), and the RCA kit boots split and leaked. Whiteline revised the RCA kit and sent out a replacement free of charge, but I'm not entirely comfortable with it when I see how scrunched up the boots are. Over time, it just worries me.

Hollow is going to be more rigid than solid. Although I think Cobb has the attitude if they put their name on something it's automatically worth more than anyone elses's and I don't like doing business with places like that.

I would prolly have to disagree with this statement...although most of us think this way about a lot of "high profile" companies out there...consider this...maybe they are the ones paying for overheads such as r&d and a whole bunch of other factors...they should every right to recoup their hard work and investments...then there's the copy cat companies...they literally steal another companies hard work and designs and slap their own logo....(all companies do this to a certain extent, yea, but that's a whole other subject and debate...) the knock off company can charge a much lesser price and look like heros...and while this might be good for competition in a sense and even better for the consumers...its because of this mentality that good companies such as blitz (just to name one) go or eventually go out of business...just my 2 cents....

I currently have the Perrin rear bar on my Evo and really love the difference it made to the car to dial it into a very neutral car....however...the front could use a bit more roll stiffness...and that's why I've bought the WORKS swaybar set. I did not want a big front bar that everyone else seems to offer due to xMR's comment above, which is why the WORKS set appealed to me. On the hollow front bar (which reduces some weight), you can set it at only 5% stiffer than the factory 23mm bar, which translates to 24.15mm. This, in theory, will be enough to counteract some of the bodyroll up front without being overkill and driving the car into understeer at the limit. Matched up to the rear solid WORKS bar set in the middle, and the staggered swaybar setup should come out to the equivalent of 24.15mm front, 26mm rear...that's perfect on paper for my driving...and what WORKS recommends.

Dave, I am an instructor for performance drivings schools with an unmodified EVO X MR. It pushes badly at entry and exit of corners and rolls way too much. I still want a fairly comyf daily driver and live in Michiagn where the road have many pot holes. How do you like the Works sway bar setup? Do you have track experience with the Works sway bar on your EVO. Does you or any other members know if I would benefit from the Whiteline roll center kit even though I have not lowered my car? I plan to do rear sway bar and maybe front sway bar this year and add AST 5100 coilovers next year.

I live in the city and the aero kit gets destroyed at the factory ride-height, haha. :)

A pain to keep that rubber lip in place, isn't it? Mine is missing 5 clips at the moment.

I run the rear Perrin & RCK. It'll be a few months before I can try it on the track but I hope the combo works out. Replacing the front bar sounded like more work than I wanted to undertake.

Dave, I am an instructor for performance drivings schools with an unmodified EVO X MR. It pushes badly at entry and exit of corners and rolls way too much. I still want a fairly comyf daily driver and live in Michiagn where the road have many pot holes. How do you like the Works sway bar setup? Do you have track experience with the Works sway bar on your EVO. Does you or any other members know if I would benefit from the Whiteline roll center kit even though I have not lowered my car? I plan to do rear sway bar and maybe front sway bar this year and add AST 5100 coilovers next year.

Nice to meet ya!

I have yet to install the WORKS front bar, that will be done in a few weeks. After which I do plan on getting some track time to see how I like it.

I posted up my impressions of the car with just a rear swaybar here:
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24571&highlight=rear+swaybar

The Whiteline roll center kit will help at factory ride height but is mainly designed to raise the roll center on a lowered car. By raising the roll center, the cars front Mac strut suspension can stay in its negative camber curve longer, which also increases front roll stiffness. It's a great mod.

Nice choice on coilovers...for your roads, strut travel is going to be very important. :)

A pain to keep that rubber lip in place, isn't it? Mine is missing 5 clips at the moment.

I run the rear Perrin & RCK. It'll be a few months before I can try it on the track but I hope the combo works out. Replacing the front bar sounded like more work than I wanted to undertake.

Yes it was! Eventually I just removed the rubber lip portion. It gives the car *just* enough clearance.

Yeah, I've been waiting on the front swaybar because I didn't want to install it myself and the labor rate for it is 5 hours at my trusted shop back home in PA.

I still have my Perrin rear bar sitting around in case I decide to go back to a RSB and RCK setup in the future. Let's see how the WORKS setup does.

Give yourself an afternoon and do the front bar. Yes, it's a pain, but it's mostly just time consuming. I did mine by myself on my garage floor with a floor jack and jack stands. The results are worth it.

Couple of questions after reading this thread...

1) Someone mentioned hollow is more rigid than solid swaybars? Could somebody explain why thats the case?

2) Whiteline seems to be the biggest bars - 27mm front and rear. I had both on my VIII and loved it. Any bad experience with whitelines?

Also, while on the subjecty - lets talk endlinks - The factory X links are garbage and shear off. Apparently, nobody makes one except coltspeed and it costs more than my first-born? Anyone tru to make their own?

Cheers!

Couple of questions after reading this thread...

1) Someone mentioned hollow is more rigid than solid swaybars? Could somebody explain why thats the case?

2) Whiteline seems to be the biggest bars - 27mm front and rear. I had both on my VIII and loved it. Any bad experience with whitelines?

Also, while on the subjecty - lets talk endlinks - The factory X links are garbage and shear off. Apparently, nobody makes one except coltspeed and it costs more than my first-born? Anyone tru to make their own?

Cheers!

1). Whiteline white paper on solid vs. hollow:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Hollow%20vs%20Solid%20Swaybar.pdf

2). Whitelines rust so badly you'll need your tetnis shot to work under your car after a year or so.

I'm waiting for someone to make some nice endlinks...Kartboy made some killer ones for Subarus...I wonder if he could be convinced to tackle the Evo?

Cliff Notes of the white paper:

Hollow bars aren't stronger than solid bars, they're weaker. To make a hollow bar as strong as a solid bar, the diameter needs to be increased over the diameter of the solid bar and the walling of the bar can be thickened.

The advantage behind hollow bars is simply weight reduction in unsprung mass.

I have theCobb rear sway before they discontinued it...if I had to get one now I'd go with the Hotchkis set. I had Hotchkis on the MazdaSpeed3 and it was the best set ever.

I would never buy any thing by "doesntWORKS."

I have theCobb rear sway before they discontinued it...if I had to get one now I'd go with the Hotchkis set. I had Hotchkis on the MazdaSpeed3 and it was the best set ever.

I would never buy any thing by "doesntWORKS."

Does anyone sell them still? Sux, I finally decided on something and mow it's discontinued.

I doubt anyone still has them. Maybe check with Cobb vendors...or call Cobb them selves. They might have some left over stock. Who knows...

I have the COBB bars F&R for about a year now. Great bars... also not one spot of rust on them. Excellent quality.

Does anyone sell them still? Sux, I finally decided on something and mow it's discontinued.
Just go with a set of Hotchkis. I paid nearly the same price for them as a COBB set through fleebay. We beat a COBB v. Hotchkis discussion to death over on evom once (clipse3gt and myself contributed quite a bit). In the end, I don't think there's a huge difference between them.

Just go with a set of Hotchkis. I paid nearly the same price for them as a COBB set through fleebay. We beat a COBB v. Hotchkis discussion to death over on evom once (clipse3gt and myself contributed quite a bit). In the end, I don't think there's a huge difference between them.

K. Thanks, I'll look into it.

Here: http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=369842

This guy had an issue with the Works one and chewed up the bushings on the mounts. Works called it installer error and said tough luck basically. Been talking to Cobb about there products and they do care and are helpful it seems. I'm going with Cobb.

Just look at the Works forum...a lot of unhappy customers before and AFTER purchase.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/forumdisplay.php?f=79

i just got around to reading the first link now and saw your ire towards WORKS and my friend, you're being ridiculous.

That rear swaybar thread is 99% installer error unless by some odd circumstance, a WORKS swaybar caused the mount to lose bolts...which is just absurd.

I've got quite a few miles on my setup now without issue.

i just got around to reading the first link now and saw your ire towards WORKS and my friend, you're being ridiculous.

That rear swaybar thread is 99% installer error unless by some odd circumstance, a WORKS swaybar caused the mount to lose bolts...which is just absurd.

I've got quite a few miles on my setup now without issue.

I can't find a different thread right now. But still to call out installer error and not help with getting new hardware is...the worst customer support ever. I had some thread strip on my APR wing and then sent me new stuff in under 3 days. WORKS does anything to blame the customer...in fact there was a good thread I can't now that the owner showed WORKS building him a race car...in the end his car has a huge banner made that said "DOESN'T-WORKS. You're just mad someone doesn't like the brand you went with.

I have also been pondering works sway bars and springs. I have since decided if i get a rear only to go robispec. I do agree on that being a install error and there is not much a vendor can do but send a mechanic with a tap set to fix that which i do not picture any vendor doing. Also if here was a problem with a part or install why not contact the vendor 1st before posting. most the time if handled politely a vendor will help resolve the problem or atleast advise what you are going to have to do to fix it. As for the bolts to the sway bar, lets say they would have ordered some for them since unless they come with the sway bar they may not stock them. then you have to wait for the vendor to get the part and then to ship to you rather then just getting the part your self.

I can't find a different thread right now. But still to call out installer error and not help with getting new hardware is...the worst customer support ever. I had some thread strip on my APR wing and then sent me new stuff in under 3 days. WORKS does anything to blame the customer...in fact there was a good thread I can't now that the owner showed WORKS building him a race car...in the end his car has a huge banner made that said "DOESN'T-WORKS. You're just mad someone doesn't like the brand you went with.

Hardly, its more of looking at it from an adult business perspective. Why is the company at fault for installer error? That's not on them. You take your car back to Mitsu if you screw up an oil change?

Not to turn this thread into a debate, but you're unrealistic about customer service in the case of the rear swaybar.

If you'd like to start another flame war like you do often, then have at it.

Hardly, its more of looking at it from an adult business perspective. Why is the company at fault for installer error? That's not on them. You take your car back to Mitsu if you screw up an oil change?

Not to turn this thread into a debate, but you're unrealistic about customer service in the case of the rear swaybar.

If you'd like to start another flame war like you do often, then have at it.

Um no I am not. And I'm truly sorry if you can't handle my opinions and experience in the business. Comparing a aftermarket manufacture to a dealer is completely different. We already expect NO customer service for a dealer...a struggling aftermarket guy, just trying to move parts and service...different story. Again I posted a personal response where I pointed out that I had a problem with my APR wing, bolt and nut got stripped...obviously my error and guess what APR fixed it. So for a MANUFACTURE, not just a vendor to say tough shit IMO that is not good customer service, yes CS and running a business are tough and there is a fine line but hey these are tough times. I'm gonna support those who are nice to me and treat me well like APR and MAP. WORKS...could...have new bolts at least instead of saying "take a trip to home depot" also not saying the OP took the best route. I contacted APR personally, and offered to pay but Tony sent them out for free, so maybe the OP took the wrong route. And Again WORKS is local to me, 25 minutes and I have heard horror stories from their "builds" for customer cars.

Um no I am not. And I'm truly sorry if you can't handle my opinions and experience in the business. Comparing a aftermarket manufacture to a dealer is completely different. We already expect NO customer service for a dealer...a struggling aftermarket guy, just trying to move parts and service...different story. Again I posted a personal response where I pointed out that I had a problem with my APR wing, bolt and nut got stripped...obviously my error and guess what APR fixed it. So for a MANUFACTURE, not just a vendor to say tough shit IMO that is not good customer service, yes CS and running a business are tough and there is a fine line but hey these are tough times. I'm gonna support those who are nice to me and treat me well like APR and MAP. WORKS...could...have new bolts at least instead of saying "take a trip to home depot" also not saying the OP took the best route. I contacted APR personally, and offered to pay but Tony sent them out for free, so maybe the OP took the wrong route. And Again WORKS is local to me, 25 minutes and I have heard horror stories from their "builds" for customer cars.
Horror stories is an understatement. Steer clear...wayyyyyy clear. Especially with all the "reputable" shops that Northern California has to offer there really is no need to head out to WORKS.

THANK YOU! At least someone else knows how WORKS can be iffy. Have u seen that thread about the 8 or 9 build and he got vinyls that say "DOESN'T WORKS" it was on a Nor Cal site I think...but I can't find it...

THANK YOU! At least someone else knows how WORKS can be iffy. Have u seen that thread about the 8 or 9 build and he got vinyls that say "DOESN'T WORKS" it was on a Nor Cal site I think...but I can't find it...

Lets just say i've seen a few (really it was like 10+) 8-9's on an EVO Dyno Day with WORKS Brain Flashes...and have seen plenty of halts mid pull (or 1 or 2 pulls) where the dyno operator will not run the car because it was running retardedly lean and unsafe. Why would you go there when you can drive an hour or so (I know people personally that have driven as far as from So-Cal and Utah) and have your car wrenched on and over seen by some of the best in the business such as GST or Speed Element. But this is my personal opinion, and should be taken with a grain of salt. ;)

Don't mean to steer this thread off course, apologies.

Um no I am not. And I'm truly sorry if you can't handle my opinions and experience in the business. Comparing a aftermarket manufacture to a dealer is completely different. We already expect NO customer service for a dealer...a struggling aftermarket guy, just trying to move parts and service...different story. Again I posted a personal response where I pointed out that I had a problem with my APR wing, bolt and nut got stripped...obviously my error and guess what APR fixed it. So for a MANUFACTURE, not just a vendor to say tough shit IMO that is not good customer service, yes CS and running a business are tough and there is a fine line but hey these are tough times. I'm gonna support those who are nice to me and treat me well like APR and MAP. WORKS...could...have new bolts at least instead of saying "take a trip to home depot" also not saying the OP took the best route. I contacted APR personally, and offered to pay but Tony sent them out for free, so maybe the OP took the wrong route. And Again WORKS is local to me, 25 minutes and I have heard horror stories from their "builds" for customer cars.

Trust me, I can handle anything you throw at me. lmao.

I was referring to Mitsu the company in my statement otherwise I would have said your dealer.

What your statements boil down to, from a corporate management perspective, is that you want free shit for breaking things because the economy is tough and you want your hand held.

:dancebanana:

Obviously, judging by your responses we aren't seeing eye to eye and I'm perfectly ok with that. It has nothing to do with WORKS as a company, you could be saying the same about any of them and I would still find your customer service expectations to be ridiculous. That's not to say that going above and beyond is not a desired outcome, but it is to say that there is an acceptable level that one can reasonably expect...at least one that believes in personal responsibility.

Back to the dancing banana :dancebanana:look at him go :dancebanana:

Trust me, I can handle anything you throw at me. lmao.

I was referring to Mitsu the company in my statement otherwise I would have said your dealer.

What your statements boil down to, from a corporate management perspective, is that you want free shit for breaking things because the economy is tough and you want your hand held.

:dancebanana:

Obviously, judging by your responses we aren't seeing eye to eye and I'm perfectly ok with that. It has nothing to do with WORKS as a company, you could be saying the same about any of them and I would still find your customer service expectations to be ridiculous. That's not to say that going above and beyond is not a desired outcome, but it is to say that there is an acceptable level that one can reasonably expect...at least one that believes in personal responsibility.

Back to the dancing banana :dancebanana:look at him go :dancebanana:

LOL, for someone who claims that I start "flame wars like I do often" you must have missed where I ask people to take responsability for blown motors and clutches, especially when it comes to dealer claims. And Mitsu "the company" they don't even want to warranty real issues on even stock cars, so again don't know why you use that to compare. If I build a 350hp car and then pop yes take responsibility as a motor rebuild is gonna F everyone that comes into service after you as the dealer may be flagged for an audit. BUT if everything seems to be done right, ie GT-serries wings, sway bars, smaller trivial items like bolts and washers should be okay for a company to say sure why not. Why WORKS is the only one that would be like ya sure....well that and their builds just go to show what they are made of. I guess it's unreasonable in your opinion that Tony from APR sent me new hardwear for them? And I want my hand help....dude I said I'd pay for my shit. But APR sent it free. ;)

Back to the dancing banana :dancebanana:look at him go :dancebanana:

OMG, I am listening to Daft Punk on Pandora reading posts, come upon this and the banana is dancing to the music, I swear.....I almost spit out all my iced tea on the keyboard...Thanks for the laugh!

OMG, I am listening to Daft Punk on Pandora reading posts, come upon this and the banana is dancing to the music, I swear.....I almost spit out all my iced tea on the keyboard...Thanks for the laugh!

haha no problem man. gotta have fun:godance: