- Parts Required
Factory front motor mount, aftermarket bushing

- Tools Required
rachet, extension, 14mm socket, sawsall, punch, hammer

- Recommended Number of People
1

- Difficulty
3

- Time to complete
1 hour

- Clear instructions with pictures




i figured i would save some money and just buy the bushing, besides, its not that hard. This was perforned with hand tools, nothing major. I have a press, but did not use it.

first step is to remove the mount. unbolt the two 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the frame. No need to brace the motor in any way. once you do this take the 14mm nut and bolt out of the mount and remove motor mount from car.

next, cut the factory bushing out of the mount. it only takes a minute.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj313/justindfrank/097.jpg


next, you will see a metal insert inside the mount housing. I used a recipracating saw to cut the ring. You must be sure not the cut through to the Monut housing. Once that is cut, i took a screw drive and used it to pry the center ring out.

then use a hammer and punch/screwdriver to pop the ring out.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj313/justindfrank/098.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj313/justindfrank/099.jpg

Then just grease the inner mount housing up, press the new bushin in, simply by using your hands.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj313/justindfrank/101.jpg

reinstall mount and enjoy your dash as it rattles off.

hows the difference really?

i really want to do this mod. like what he said, really that big of a difference?

I wanna know too, I have a Buschur mount already. But not on my car yet.

its serious. the car seriously vibrates. I installed mainly because my wastegate dump tube use to hit the firewall hard when i go in reverse. Now the motor no longer moves, i also noticed that i can now brake the tires hard on staright aceleration and hard shifts into 2nd. so it did seriously improve power to the wheels.

Now i am use to hard mounts and expected the outcome to be harsh. If you use the car as a daily driver, and enjoy a smooth ride, this is not the mod for you.

Also, forgot to mention, the Vibration will go away slightly as the mount brakes in... it will eventually get softer. This is the same as all mounts.

Nice write up. I had the front/rear/transmission mounts on my Ion Redline and they were extremely harsh and vibrated alot. My wife has that car now and I had to take them off, because, she said there was too much vibration. So like Meat said it isn't for those that want a smooth dd ride.

What's the durometer of this mount?

man that sucks, everybody says they love how smooth my ca is, but i wanted those mounts, gd this sucks

What's the durometer of this mount?


you mean stiffnes? not sure, it is the AMS mount though.

What's the durometer of this mount?

Look at Energy Suspension durometer ratings.....

There definitely is a noticeable difference in vibration installing this bushing, but I have to say that I saw a much bigger difference when I installed Energy Mounts in my 1.8T daily driver. Just my 2 cents.

Great write up, Thank you!

If you would like to just swap the mounts, we also do sell the already pre-pressed ones.

Great write up, Thank you!

If you would like to just swap the mounts, we also do sell the already pre-pressed ones.


Thanks.... was just trying to save a buck and do it myself. :D

So that ring really MUST be cut out? The AMS site is deceiving. I thought using a hydraulic press I could punch out the old insert and press in the new one. I guess it's a bit more than that...

Anyone? It can't just be depressed in, we really have to cut the ring and stock mount out?

Anyone? It can't just be depressed in, we really have to cut the ring and stock mount out?


Its not a big deal to cut it out.. just use a saws-all like i stated. and then knock it out.

AMS did not do a "HOW TO" on the sale page.. thats why they have tech support and the PRE INSTALLED BUSHING. All they said was press out the bushing, and if you have EVER done a bushing install like this you would Automatically know the ring is part of the rubber bushing and it is what would be pressed out.

Yes AMS did not post a how to, but they don't say modification the the stock motor housing is needed now do they?

I would like the ability to press in a new unit for a stock one if ever needed. And yes I've done motor mount installs before, just never on an Evo and never had to cut anything....

Yes AMS did not post a how to, but they don't say modification the the stock motor housing is needed now do they?

I would like the ability to press in a new unit for a stock one if ever needed. And yes I've done motor mount installs before, just never on an Evo and never had to cut anything....



bahahah..... so you dont think you are modifying the stock mount when you remove the rubber and install the ams?

are you trying to be able to reinstall the factory rubber or something?

if you were to buy a new factory rubber bushing.. it would come nside the metal ring and you would press it in.

If you would like.. pm me, i will give you my number and i can explain better.. Only trying to help.

What's the durometer of this mount?

90A

I believe the Buschur mount is 90A as well.

90A

I believe the Buschur mount is 90A as well.


thank you, hopefully they know what tis means. :thumbup:

i gots 2 retard ?'s...


whats 90A and where on the motor does it go??

90A is the hardness of the bushing. A 90A bushing is harder than most skateboard wheels - just to give you an idea. This sucker is not for the weak, your cabin will vibrate like a bitch.

90A is the hardness of the bushing. A 90A bushing is harder than most skateboard wheels - just to give you an idea. This sucker is not for the weak, your cabin will vibrate like a bitch.


+ my dash vibrates like a SON of a Bitch

Aw crap. Dam....I had a 70A in my MazdaSpeed3. That was nice and vibrated a good amount....shit....90 is gonna kill me probably, haha.

i want that!!!!

thank you, hopefully they know what tis means. :thumbup:

For those wondering:

75A urethane = "SOFT" skateboard wheel (e.g. those used on most longboards)

90A urethane = "MEDIUM"-hardness skateboard wheel

95 - 97A urethane = "HARD" skateboard wheel (e.g. those used on most regular (short) skate decks; wheels in this durometer range make the "CCCRRRRRRRRRRrrrrr" sound on the street)


Note: Whether a certain durometer, or range of durometers are "soft," or "hard" will of course depend on the application.

reinstall mount and enjoy your dash as it rattles off.

When you reinstalled the mount, did you torque everything down to a certain spec? I looked all over the Service Manual without any luck.

When you reinstalled the mount, did you torque everything down to a certain spec? I looked all over the Service Manual without any luck.


yep i found "tight" worked rather well. :thumbup:

I have been working on cars for a long time and i know when something is tight enough. thats just me though. I generate alot of self TQ though.. so its pretty damn tight.

I wanna update everyone in this thread you do not have to cut the old mount out. I sent AMS an email with this thread, Dan read over it and had this to say when I asked if cutting had to be done:

Ray,
I just finished reading that thread and I can see where the misunderstanding would be. The stock mount is composed of an inner metal ring, the rubber bushing, the outer metal ring, and then the actual mount itself. When pressing out the mount the outer ring needs to come with it. that is what holds the stock bushing all together. Using a press this should come out as one. Once it is all out you can just press the new mount in (should be really easy to press in as long as it is lubricated). If you were looking to put it back to sock you would need to buy a new motor mount from mitsu.

Please let me know if you have any other questions I will be more than happy to help.

Dan M.
- Sales -


So no cutting if you have a press, and I happen to have a 12 ton one in the shop, hehe.

Wanted to get one of these from Darius a handful of days ago, thought I'd take a drive out there tomorrow and would've except for the 4" -8" of white stuff the weatherman is forecasting. If its not Il politics that get you, it's the weather.

**UPDATE**

The AMS Motor Mount Bushing for the Evo X is actually 70A NOT 90A according to Ivan@AMS. Evidently whomever I spoke with at AMS months back mistakenly quoted me the durometer of the VIII/IX bushing which IS 90A.

I apologize for the mix-up.

but still where does it go...i have found 3 diffrent mounts.

but still where does it go...i have found 3 diffrent mounts.

It's the lower motor mount dude....

there are 2 lower mounts

there are 2 lower mounts

It's the lower front. CLEARLY visible, not the hidden lower one further back near the T-Case.

i know of the one that is on teh passenger side top. the cross member w/ one.

so i know what your talking about xD how hard is it to get out???

Looks to be the easiest motor mount install ever. I mean the mount is RIGHT there. Can't be easier than that.

my car already has a bunch of vibrating parts that drive me to insanity, the last thing i need is more vibrating parts hahaha. but ive seen this engine on the dyno and god damn that thing is all over the place so i can see where this mod helps out

Installed mine yesterday and it was easy. Hardest part was getting the stock bushing out of the mount. But it's done and in. Now if only I could take the car off the lift....but it still has a lot of work to be done.

I will have to do this in a couple weeks. 70A is a nice in between durometer. I can't stand feeling the engine shift when I floor it. It's still not as bad as my srt-4 though, I pulled the lower intercooler pressure pipe off when I floored it in 2nd. Next day I put in solid mounts.

AMS have 2 options now, I just bought the 90

AMS have 2 options now, I just bought the 90

Oh boy, I hope you know what you're getting into. :D

The 70A turns the car into a maraca on cold days. Still one of my favorite mods. :thumbup:

reinstall mount and enjoy your dash as it rattles off.



HAHAHAHAHAHA


I AGREE i installed my AGP Engine mount and my whole dash was going crazy haha...but when it gets into place it settle's down..lol but it feels like your in a mustang or something haha.

**UPDATE**

The AMS Motor Mount Bushing for the Evo X is actually 70A NOT 90A according to Ivan@AMS. Evidently whomever I spoke with at AMS months back mistakenly quoted me the durometer of the VIII/IX bushing which IS 90A.

I apologize for the mix-up.

That's what I thought. Thanks for the update!

can anybody comment on the AMS cam side or transmission side mounts? according to my research on the forums, it seems like cam and trans mounts are less favorable than front engine mounts....do we really benefit most from a front engine mount than side mounts? I just wanted to get some input on this topic...

is our stock side mounts really sturdy enough to take the abuse?