Handling issues after installing Ohlins DFV

[EvoxForumUser12]

I have these coilovers. When people talk about softening/hardening the rears by changing the clicks what is your reference point? The manual says always start from fully closed which is all the way clockwise hence fully firm. If I want to reduce understeer, by only adjusting the rears, do I reduced the # of clicks from fully firm or increase the # of clicks from fully firm?

[momostallion]

Originally Posted by zikizira

Hi,

I have setup the alignment as following:
- Toe: F:0.0, R:0.0
- Camber: F: -2.75, R: -1.50
- Caster: Havent changed;


Would this positive camber for the rear wheels explain the lower performance? I have just checked the car in garage and it looks the rear wheels still have negative camber?

you show -1.50 rear camber, not sure why you are saying positive camber.

[Cyp]

Maybe your wife is improving her times over yours.

[zikizira]

Originally Posted by momostallion

you show -1.50 rear camber, not sure why you are saying positive camber.

I was talking about the picture (red evo) on the first post. The right rear wheel appears to have more positive camber than the other evos.

[Ken-X]

I had the same issue racing my X after installing R & T's, even spun the car once!
I found that with the stiffer than stock rear ARB, I need to set the DFV's softer on the rear by around 2-4 clicks, all good now!

The orange Evo will always be quicker though, love the colour

[CBRDSpeedfactory]

I had been contacted by a few people asking for feedback-

Keep in mind not everyone is going to want the same settings-

Here are some key notes from CBRD as we do quite a lot with Ohlins-

I generally do not like to run STIFF sway bars- we recommend a nice rear upgrade run on full soft- reason being- a stiff bar will really upset the car when you are hitting bumps loaded in a corner- we prefer to use a spring/damper to control the car-

Pre-load- this will depend on your overall spring rate- weight of car- power- and how you like the car to feel on initial roll etc- if you preload the spring a little more the car will feel more positive when it starts to roll- until you "break" through that initial preload and the car sets- this is really a fine tuning method- most people are run just running about 1 turn of preload to keep the spring properly seated on the perches-

Rake- we prefer to run a slightly higher rear rate (most people see us run a 10/10 or 572/572 or 572/600) on the X---- But we prefer to run the car flatter again with a fairly soft rear bar-

Simplest- Check your toe camber settings- not everyone needs 2.5 degrees negative front camber on most of the street tire/R comp setups out there- but it depends on the track layouts you visit-

another note- we always set the camber eccentric (factory one that goes through the strut clamp face) to the most positive setting to stand the shock as upright as possible- then use the camber plate to dial in our desired camber)

We tend to run less camber in the rear than most to stand the tire upright- and- also a slightly toed in rear setting to calm the car down (ask most people that we've done clutch installs for and we do an alignment)----

for damper settings-

I recommend the full sweep method-

Start out full soft- drive the car- then go FULL stiff- this will give you an idea of how you are controlling the spring and body movement- that will quickly educate you on what you have to work with-

Another thing we REALLY like is perrins PSRS kit with max castor- it will give you more castor and also effectively increases the wheelbase slightly- making a much easier to drive more predictable car with better steering feel- I actually like this better than the whiteline kits for roll control- since the X has a slightly longer control arm.

I hope this helps a little- for specific questions please email me at Chad@cbrdspeedfactory.com

cheers

CB

[CBRDSpeedfactory]

also-

we dont typically run the ohlins measurements on our dampers- just FYI-

cb

[HPEVOX]

Very good info. Thanks!