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How-to change SST transmission fluid

241K views 298 replies 89 participants last post by  Reyman36 
#1 ·
Tools needed:
Jack, Jackstands or a lift.
Clip remover tool or a small flathead screwdriver
3/8 ratchet with 9 inches of extension
8mm allen head socket
10mm hex socket
32mm socket and 1/2inch ratchet
Drain pan
People needed: 1, or 2 if you leave your second drain pan out of reach
Parts needed:
2 gallons of diaqueen sst fluid=$150/gallon
1 oem filter=$150

Time=about 1.5hrs

1: Lift the front of the car and support it with jackstands, unless you have access to a lift.
2: Remove the center lower shield and the drivers lower shield. About 30 small clips pry up on the center button and they release. There are 2 10mm bolts on the drivers side to remove.


3: Locate the fill hole on top of the transmission, it is an 8mm allen. You will need the 9 inches of extension here. I undo this first to aid in the draining of fluid. It flows quicker and it doesn't gulp gulp on the way out making a mess. If you have a stock air box you will have to remove it.


4: Remove the three drain plugs, 8mm allen again. I started with the lowest one on the trans thinking it would have the most to drain, I was wrong. Each one had quite a bit in it. I tried catching all of the fluid to measure it. I caught over 5 qts and spilled about 2qts. The service manual says you need just under 6qts on a drain and fill, after doing this I don't agree.


5: Drain the cooler, this is not necessary but I opted to do it. Locate the lower hose on the cooler slide the clamp back and pull the line off.


6: Locate the OEM filter, it is on the drivers side, and twist off lefty loosey 32mm socket works very well but you can use a large crescent wrench in a pinch. Install new one righty tighty.


7: Reinstall removed drain plugs (27ft/lbs) and cooler hose with clamp.
8: Fill transmission from top fill hole. I used 7qts because thats what I removed.

9: Reinstall fill plug. Double check all of your work, i.e. all drain and fill plugs are torqued and the filter is tight. Also make sure your line is back on the cooler and the clamp is on and tight.
10: Start car and recheck for leaks. I put the car in gear but if you are only on two jackstands don't.
11: Reinstall the lower covers

I changed my fluid at 28k miles the filter was pretty dirty, in hindsight I should have done it at 15k. I just think the first 15k a lot of debris is coming out of the transmission, break-in and such.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks! Gonna be doing this probably next weekend when I install the SSP front mount. That filter costs waaay too much, but I'm glad I got it after looking at your filter
 
#5 ·
Awesome write one just 2 little things. After you fill it up crank the motor so the transmissions pump will suck up the fluid and fill the lines. Then put it in each gear to get all the air pockets/ect out.

Then check the fluid level WHILE the car is idling, fully warm and level. Until oil you check trans fluid WHILE the motor is running.

Awesome right up.
 
#7 ·
How do you know when the fluid level is full? I bought 2 cans of SSTF, I hope that's enough with the added SSP front cooler...

the ssp front cooler uses the filler plug as the outflow for the new cooler
 
#13 ·
Bryan, I paid $372 shipped if that makes you feel better...

Fill it up until it reads full on the dip stick and then add a little more. Crank up the car and recheck it. Add more fluid if need be to the full mark.
So if there's no dipstick, can someone post a pic of this bolt we're supposed to take out to check levels. Is there a better way?

No dipstick, unless you are running SSP's deep pan w/dipstick (so glad they made this pan!). ;)

As for how much fluid you will need with the SSP Transmission cooler it will take 8-8.5L.

7-7.5L for stock change, and add 1L for the extra Trans cooler.
&@!$%, I hope it's 8L, because that's all I have. Seems silly to shell out another $100 for an extra .5 liters
 
#22 ·
That's where I got my stuff from.

Any other ideas on checking the fluid level? As of now, I'm planning on dumping all 8 litres in with my ssp cooler and crossing my fingers. Probably not the best idea....
 
#24 ·
not true, clutches yes though it's closer to a bike setup then a manual dry clutch. But more important the part that makes it a transmission is gears, the entire gear section is identical to a manual. It's not clutches and bands, it's actual gears with shift forks etc etc, it's much much closer to a manual then an auto. But that isn't what this is about, this is about fluid, you put ATF or hydraulic fluid in you'll not get very far, being the point.
 
#46 ·
I would actually like to see some factual information on the ssp one. I cant find how many microns it filters to compared to the oem one. Until there is some solid facts not "it filters twice what the oem one does" I will stick to the oem one. It just sucks that a crappy oem filter costs so much.
 
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