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4B11T Forged Internal Buyer's Guide

70K views 65 replies 34 participants last post by  SSgt P 
#1 ·
I've decided we should start a thread to show all available options for everyone looking into building the bottom end of their engines.

Let's list all available options, specs, etc.

Please do not link to any external sites, especially if they are not Approved Merchants here.

Please use the following formats and post up accordingly. Please attach and post any photos using this method.

Stroker kits (include rods, pistons, and crank):
  • Brand/Name:
  • Total displacement:
  • Available Bores:
  • Piston/Skirt Coatings:
  • Stroke:
  • Sleeves included (Y/N)?
  • Kit Contents:
  • Recommended applications:
  • Notes:
  • Photos:

Forged Pistons:
  • Brand:
  • Material:
  • Piston/Skirt Coatings:
  • Recommended applications:
  • Notes:
  • Photos:

Forged Rods:
  • Brand:
  • Material:
  • Rod Ratio:
  • Recommended applications:
  • Notes:
  • Photos:

I'll keep updating the first few posts in this thread with more info as we come across it.
 
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#2 ·
Stroker kits (include rods, pistons, and crank):
  • Brand/Name: Cosworth
  • Total displacement: 2.2L
  • Available Bores:
  • Piston/Skirt Coatings: Yes, coated skirts
  • Stroke: 94mm
  • Sleeves included (Y/N)? No
  • Kit Contents:
  • Recommended applications:
  • Notes:The 2.2L billet stroker crank for the 4B11 is machined from EN40B steel with a 94mm stroke. Designed for use with Cosworth forged stroker rods and pistons resulting in a perfect bore to stroke ratio that will allow the engine to still rev over 9000 rpm with a broad power band.
    * Superior Lubrication
    * Profiled Counterweights
    * High strength
    * Light weight
    * Use with Cosworth forged pistons and rods
  • Photos:

  • Brand/Name: Brian Cower Pro Series Stoker Kit
  • Total displacement: up to 2.5L
  • Available Bores:
  • Piston/Skirt Coatings:
  • Stroke:
  • Sleeves included (Y/N)?
  • Kit Contents:
BC 4340 billet steel crankshaft (84mm stroke).
Choice of 4340 steel billet connecting rods w/ARP fasteners.
CP aluminum forged pistons (any bore size, any compression ratio).
High strength steel alloy wrist pins for added longevity and reduced flex.
Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings.
Fully system balanced and ready to install.
ACL Race Series rod and main bearings sold separately.
  • Recommended applications:
  • Notes:
The BC stroker kit for the Mitsubishi 4B11T engine platform incorporates a 98mm stroke crank. Depending on bore size that you decide, the BC kit will take you up to a 2.5L with a sleeved 90mm bore. The kit utilizes premium steel billet connecting rods with Custom Age 625+ for severe-duty fasteners. As usual, each BC kit features custom CP pistons, steel alloy wrist pins, full ring pack and locks.
 
#5 ·
How about listing an MSRP? That would be helpful.
 
#7 ·
Stroker kits (include rods, pistons, and crank):
  • Brand/Name: Brian Cower Pro Series Stoker Kit
  • Total displacement: up to 2.5L
  • Available Bores:
  • Piston/Skirt Coatings:
  • Stroke:
  • Sleeves included (Y/N)?
  • Kit Contents:
BC 4340 billet steel crankshaft (84mm stroke).
Choice of 4340 steel billet connecting rods w/ARP fasteners.
CP aluminum forged pistons (any bore size, any compression ratio).
High strength steel alloy wrist pins for added longevity and reduced flex.
Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings.
Fully system balanced and ready to install.
ACL Race Series rod and main bearings sold separately.
  • Recommended applications:
  • Notes:
The BC stroker kit for the Mitsubishi 4B11T engine platform incorporates a 98mm stroke crank. Depending on bore size that you decide, the BC kit will take you up to a 2.5L with a sleeved 90mm bore. The kit utilizes premium steel billet connecting rods with Custom Age 625+ for severe-duty fasteners. As usual, each BC kit features custom CP pistons, steel alloy wrist pins, full ring pack and locks.
  • Photos:Can't find one yet
Link they are not a vendor on this site but some vendors sell BC stuff
 
#13 ·
what is the best way to go if you are wanting to have a strong motor but with all bolt ons and a red or similar turbo. As in should I stroke the motor or just build the 2.0 with upgraded pistons rods etc.
 
#18 ·
Stroker kits (include rods, pistons, and crank):
  • Brand/Name: ERL Performance
  • Total displacement: 2.3liter (non-sleeved), 2.5liter (sleeved)
  • Available Bores: 86.5mm(2.3), 90mm(2.5)
  • Piston/Skirt Coatings: no (is an option for 100.00 additional)
  • Stroke: 97mm
  • Sleeves included (Y/N)? No
  • Kit Contents:
  • Recommended applications:
The ERL 4B11 Stroker Kit is an economical way to obtain a large displacement Mitsubishi 4B11. The Stroker kit can be purchased with stock 86.5mm pistons producing 2.3L of displacement or with oversized 90mm pistons producing 2.5L of displacement. The 4B11 has a stock stroke of only 86mm, ERL increases this by 11mm to 97mm. The ERL 4B11 Stroker kit comes with custom Wiseco pistons, forged crankshaft, K1 rods and ACL race bearings. Sleeved Block is necessary if using 90mm pistons.
In this link above you'll see 4 pics of the stroker kits. Please let us know how we can help with any questions about our stroker kits.
 
#19 ·
The ERL 4B11 Stroker Kit is an economical way to obtain a large displacement Mitsubishi 4B11. The Stroker kit can be purchased with stock 86.5mm pistons producing 2.3L of displacement or with oversized 90mm pistons producing 2.5L of displacement. The 4B11 has a stock stroke of only 86mm, ERL increases this by 11mm to 97mm. The ERL 4B11 Stroker kit comes with custom Wiseco pistons, forged crankshaft, K1 rods and ACL race bearings. Sleeved Block is necessary if using 90mm pistons.
  • Photos:


In this link above you'll see 4 pics of the stroker kits. Please let us know how we can help with any questions about our stroker kits.


I thought the stock bore and stroke were the same on the X, being 86 mm.

3.14 X 86 X 86 X 86 = 1998 CC

I'm confused.
 
#26 ·
Lotsa mods VS. Bigger displacement

Hey Gang,

So is there an Either / Or school of thought here? Specifically, "Either" lots of mods to make big power (hardpipes, big intercooler, biggie turbo, blow off valve, boost controller, pulleys, etc.), "Or" bigger displacement?

I'm having a blast with my graphite grey 2010 Evo X and I'm already modding it. (or at least, I was having a blast until some moron in a construction truck drove into the back of my car and caused $7,500 in damage and my car is being fixed at his expense - but that's another story.. or another rant).

So the question I'm pondering is: Should I spend about $6,000 (modding budget at the moment) on all the usual mods: exhaust, intercooler, pipes, etc. or should I spend the same $ on engine internals instead (stroker kit, or big block with high-quality internals)?

I'm not really looking for "best bang for the buck" I'm looking for best driving feel and for the best results.

What do you think?
 

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#31 ·
I'm not really looking for "best bang for the buck"
If I drop a few grand, I’d like it to be the right few grand. Ideally I’d like to find the two or three Big Mods that will deliver 100+ HP, rather than mess around with five or six mods that will eventually add up to 100+ HP over stock. Nothing wrong with making five or six mods, but I want to spend my time driving the car and not having it sit in the shop too often.
So which is it buddy? We all want to get the best bang for our buck :shades:

It seems like what you really want is an FP red and minimal supporting mods. You'll lose some low end power but that's the quickest way to approaching the 400whp mark. The green will need too much support to get you there, but you'll keep more of the fun low end power.

You said the 295hp factory was fun... that's roughly 220-240whp on most dynos, so when you're approaching 400whp, you're almost doubling the power put to the wheels...

FWIW, I'm probably going to be extremely close to maxing out the stock turbo and would be happy to come close to 400whp... this is with E85 and just about every bolt-on imaginable. I'm considering Kelford A's or GSC S1's to get me even closer, but still on the fence on that one. I guarantee that set up will have more torque in the lower band than just about any other setup, but so many others on these forums would've ditched the stock turbo at this point...

Either do a bunch of bolt-ons and get ~350whp or swap out the turbo and get close to 400whp w/out supporting mods, if you're ballin on a budget.
 
#27 ·
Can you DIY? If so, drop that $6k on AMS's smallest turbo kit and be doneski. I would've went that route in hindsight, but too late now. I have too much already invested into all that miscellaneous bullshit you're talking about, pouring more on top of it would be too much for my intentions/budget.

Hell, I can afford a GTR right now but guess what? Not gonna do it.

What will you be content with? If 350whp/wtq sounds like your idea of a great time, then do the small bullshit w/ stock turbo. If 400whp/wtq would satisfy, then do that small bullshit + E85. If you want to venture over 400, you'll have to do internals if you want reliability, why not up the displacement while you're there, and meanwhile you'll be in the state of mind: "fuck it, why not just slap a big ass turbo on now that I have more displacement to spool it."

It's a slippery slope, but once you start sliding down it, good luck stopping. Myself... I'm teetering on the edge on a daily basis, the only thing holding me back is house hunting... gotta find something to do with my money before the Evo eats it for breakfast.
 
#29 ·
Big displacement vs. LotsaMods for 400 HP

Hey, thanks for your thoughts. The stock engine is pretty entertaining with 295 horses and I recently got a nice ECU reflash that REALLY woke up the stock turbo. I didn’t dyno the car but the bump in power is definitely noticeable. None the less, I’d like to reach 400 HP and torque – no real need, just because!

This is my first turbo (and my first Evo) and I hear a bunch of junk about how biggee turbos are great for top end but ruin the streetability of the car. Dunno. If I drop a few grand, I’d like it to be the right few grand. Ideally I’d like to find the two or three Big Mods that will deliver 100+ HP, rather than mess around with five or six mods that will eventually add up to 100+ HP over stock. Nothing wrong with making five or six mods, but I want to spend my time driving the car and not having it sit in the shop too often.

Turbo upgrade, versus Stroker Kit, versus Bored-out Block, versus LotsaMods to get 400 HP. What do you think?


Can you DIY? If so, drop that $6k on AMS's smallest turbo kit and be doneski. I would've went that route in hindsight, but too late now. I have too much already invested into all that miscellaneous bullshit you're talking about, pouring more on top of it would be too much for my intentions/budget.

Hell, I can afford a GTR right now but guess what? Not gonna do it.

What will you be content with? If 350whp/wtq sounds like your idea of a great time, then do the small bullshit w/ stock turbo. If 400whp/wtq would satisfy, then do that small bullshit + E85. If you want to venture over 400, you'll have to do internals if you want reliability, why not up the displacement while you're there, and meanwhile you'll be in the state of mind: "fuck it, why not just slap a big ass turbo on now that I have more displacement to spool it."

It's a slippery slope, but once you start sliding down it, good luck stopping. Myself... I'm teetering on the edge on a daily basis, the only thing holding me back is house hunting... gotta find something to do with my money before the Evo eats it for breakfast.
 
#33 ·
Best path to 400 HP?

Yeah, having 2.5 liters of displacement would be fun. Hmm, stroker kit + big bore block to achieve 2.5 liters. I wonder if that would deliver about 400 HP?
 

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#38 ·
I know all about the parasitic losses associated with sending engine power though the drivetrain to the wheels. On the Evo X, stock engine power is about 290 and by the time that power has made its way all the way to the wheels, there are about 260 left. So 30 HP lost in the process.

What I'd like is about 100 HP over stock at the wheels, so technically, yes it would require an additional 130 HP from the engine. This issue is something of a tangent from the original question.

Q: What few modifications will reliably deliver 130 whp over stock, for a total of approx 400 whp?
 
#43 ·
Well, FP green is the next step up from the stocker. As you go bigger and bigger turbo, you lose more and more of the low end. E85 helps that out with more aggressive timing though.

If E85 is available, that'd be my best recommendation for you.

Edit: honestly, you might want to just stay on stock internals and keep it between 350-400whp. Gonna cost a whole lot more to go past that range.
 
#45 ·
If I was re modding my evo from the begginning I would probably pull my stocker and send it in the Forced Performance and have it rebuilt to an FP Red for about 750 bucks. Then go with the ERL 2.3 Stroker with bigger injectors... Maybe 1000cc and 255lph fuel pump with a down pipe, intake, pull the cat and a tune. But maybe others could elaborate on a more efficient way to spend 6 grand and get the most power/reliability. But with that setup it will be over 6 grand. Cobb sells full kits turbo and all. You could look into that.
 
#48 ·
So what is the best way to go with the block and internals to maximize HP with my current upgrades.

My block is shot so I have been toying with a sleeved block or standard block and stroker kit, or sleeved block or standard block with OEM crank and Manley TTIBs and pistons. I like the sound of the 2.5l setup.

This is what I currently have installed. Stage 2 port and polished head, it does have Kelford springs, standard cams, ARP head studs, main block had Manley platinum series .020 pistons, Manley H beam rods with ARP rod bolts, ACL main and rod bearings, I also have an FP black turbo, with FIC 1100cc injectors, AMS intake, Tial Q 50mm BOV, 3" SS test pipe, Greddy 3" SS TIC Catback, and Torque Solutions solid engine mounts. It also has an AEM Wideband, and is running E85.

What do you guys think?
 
#49 ·
Build as cheap as possible so when it blows you didnt spend a shit load of money.

So what is the best way to go with the block and internals to maximize HP with my current upgrades.

My block is shot so I have been toying with a sleeved block or standard block and stroker kit, or sleeved block or standard block with OEM crank and Manley TTIBs and pistons. I like the sound of the 2.5l setup.

This is what I currently have installed. Stage 2 port and polished head, it does have Kelford springs, standard cams, ARP head studs, main block had Manley platinum series .020 pistons, Manley H beam rods with ARP rod bolts, ACL main and rod bearings, I also have an FP black turbo, with FIC 1100cc injectors, AMS intake, Tial Q 50mm BOV, 3" SS test pipe, Greddy 3" SS TIC Catback, and Torque Solutions solid engine mounts. It also has an AEM Wideband, and is running E85.

What do you guys think?
 
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