Pistons/rods for stock turbo

[freethriftyz]

Thanks for the responses guys. I know it's a weird mod, but I'm just gonna get the pistons/rods and downpipe. Then I can add a turbo in a couple years if I want without worrying about stressing the internals too much. But more importantly, just enjoy my car now.

[mac11wildcat]

Originally Posted by freethriftyz

Thanks for the responses guys. I know it's a weird mod, but I'm just gonna get the pistons/rods and downpipe. Then I can add a turbo in a couple years if I want without worrying about stressing the internals too much. But more importantly, just enjoy my car now.

Not weird at all. Its a great way to approach it. It may be a little early for those (as far as power goes) but never too early for piece of mind.

[HappyMint]

Upgrading internals and keeping stock turbo for the intent of reliability is an absolutely horrible idea (no offense intended).

There is absolutely no built block that is going to be more reliable than the stock block. I promise you, mitsu put a LOT more money and testing into the stock block than anyone has ever done with a 4b11 aftermarket block.

If you're going to be pushing power levels that may bend rods that's one thing, but if you aren't, and your goal is reliability, for the love of god don't touch it. Make sure you got a good tune and be happy.

Knock light isn't something you should be worried about if it comes on occasionally. Ask your tuner, or look yourself, as to how your knock light is configured (what is the minimum load and how many counts of knock before it flashes slow/fast).

Do you really want to wait literally 20 minutes or more every time you start your car before you should drive it because you upgraded internals for absolutely no gain and a lot of cost (upgraded internals expand more and require more time to warm up - otherwise you'll get piston slap)? There is a lot more at play here than you realize.

On that note, if your stock turbo is pushing 400wtq then get your boost dropped, the solution is NOT to build the engine.

[hotstix]

always better to "overbuild" *IF* youre gonna go under the knife.

but like others have said. Dont build it unless you have to. The highest mileage motors on here are still oem. Just keep the torque around 370 and youll be fine

[Murlo26]

Stock motor ftw, especially on your setup.

Focus on figuring out why its knocking, maybe fueling issue (plenty of people here have them).

Otherwise get a retune or just have Kozmic check your tune. A tune can have issues related to weather etc so maybe its just this time of the year, maybe its bad gas etc etc.

I would way rather spend money/time figuring out why a stock turbo car is knocking than building the motor and opening that can of worms.

[mac11wildcat]

ill go with the "can of worms" idea, but to say that he's garaunteed piston slap is a little hasty. Thats going to depend on so many things that arent even in the realm of consideration yet. I doubt OP is going to go out into his garage, tear his engine out, break it down, throw some pistons in, and go. Piston material and power goals are just a couple considerations that are going to dictate that.

considering he's a guy worried about reliability and not power, im willing to bet waiting 5 minutes on cold mornings (where do you live OP?) isnt a huge problem. i doubt he's tearing out of his driveway chasing ricers at WOT.

sorry for the sarcasm...i needed that for some reason...

[HappyMint]

Well, you can be sarcastic all you want, I'm just trying to offer sound advice since chances are if he builds his engine and drops all that money on labor and parts, he's probably going to regret it. I've seen it happen numerous times, the car isn't the same after you build it.

OP, perhaps it's in your best interest to ask people who have already been through a motor build if they would do it if they were in your situation, but I'm willing to bet you'll get an overwhelming no. You already know what Hotstix and Murlo think, both of which had built engines.

Just my 0.02.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by HappyMint

Well, you can be sarcastic all you want, I'm just trying to offer sound advice since chances are if he builds his engine and drops all that money on labor and parts, he's probably going to regret it. I've seen it happen numerous times, the car isn't the same after you build it.

OP, perhaps it's in your best interest to ask people who have already been through a motor build if they would do it if they were in your situation, but I'm willing to bet you'll get an overwhelming no. You already know what Hotstix and Murlo think, both of which had built engines.

Just my 0.02.

There is nothing wrong with building a motor if you need it for your power goals, there is just no reason to build it for a stock turbo setup. It's leagues easier to keep the stock one working correctly, built motors aren't impossible to get right or anything just a good bit of work to keep them up to par.

[HappyMint]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

There is nothing wrong with building a motor if you need it for your power goals, there is just no reason to build it for a stock turbo setup. It's leagues easier to keep the stock one working correctly, built motors aren't impossible to get right or anything just a good bit of work to keep them up to par.

Agreed. I didn't say it in that post, but I said it in the previous one, if you don't plan on entering rod-bending territory I don't see the point in building.

[nonschlont]

Originally Posted by HappyMint

Upgrading internals and keeping stock turbo for the intent of reliability is an absolutely horrible idea (no offense intended).

There is absolutely no built block that is going to be more reliable than the stock block. I promise you, mitsu put a LOT more money and testing into the stock block than anyone has ever done with a 4b11 aftermarket block.

If you're going to be pushing power levels that may bend rods that's one thing, but if you aren't, and your goal is reliability, for the love of god don't touch it. Make sure you got a good tune and be happy.

Knock light isn't something you should be worried about if it comes on occasionally. Ask your tuner, or look yourself, as to how your knock light is configured (what is the minimum load and how many counts of knock before it flashes slow/fast).

Do you really want to wait literally 20 minutes or more every time you start your car before you should drive it because you upgraded internals for absolutely no gain and a lot of cost (upgraded internals expand more and require more time to warm up - otherwise you'll get piston slap)? There is a lot more at play here than you realize.

On that note, if your stock turbo is pushing 400wtq then get your boost dropped, the solution is NOT to build the engine.

I agree 100% on this ^