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While balancing on a piece of wood, two inches by four inches known as a 2x4, john and his friend sally both spotted a dalmatian inside a truck with sirens, headed to put out a fire. State what the 2x4 is made of.
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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-25-2019 09:07 AM
jitu78988 Hello friend. I am new here.
08-30-2019 12:01 AM
turismolover22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadrider10 View Post
Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark.

To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits <img src="https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the factory fluids, In fact a lot recommend them.

That being said, I use MOTUL oils in all my drivetrain components. I use a 75W-90 in the trans, a 75W-140 in the rear diff, and whatever SPIII rated trans fluid for the AYC side of the diff I can find. Its a splash oiling/light lube bath for the AYC components. The AYC pump and the sealed hydraulic units do all the heavy lifting inside there anyway.

But yes, to confirm your question, the ACD actuating unit and the AYC actuating units are 100% sealed from their respective systems. No fluid goes in or out except what fluid is in the trunk reservoir
08-28-2019 06:03 PM
ricko hello #44
08-28-2019 01:59 PM
Pralx hello friends!
06-18-2019 12:06 PM
Quadrider10 Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark.

To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits <img src="https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf
06-17-2019 08:08 AM
Quadrider10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheshire Cynic View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadrider10 View Post
So i finally found one! Bought a 2015 Wicked White Evo. Had 26k on the ODO. Not bad car, super clean, and showed 0 signs of any sort of modifications.
Holy crap! Congrats, dude! Hope you got a great deal! It sounds like they got the center diff issues worked out by 2011, so theoretically that shouldn't be a problem for you. Enjoy your new whip!
Sweet! Thanks a lot! Now the fun part of inspecting every but and bolt on this car until my eyes bleed along with replacing fluids. Lol, looking forward to it!
06-17-2019 02:02 AM
Cheshire Cynic
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadrider10 View Post
So i finally found one! Bought a 2015 Wicked White Evo. Had 26k on the ODO. Not bad car, super clean, and showed 0 signs of any sort of modifications.
Holy crap! Congrats, dude! Hope you got a great deal! It sounds like they got the center diff issues worked out by 2011, so theoretically that shouldn't be a problem for you. Enjoy your new whip!
06-15-2019 12:25 AM
Quadrider10 So i finally found one! Bought a 2015 Wicked White Evo. Had 26k on the ODO. Not bad car, super clean, and showed 0 signs of any sort of modifications.
06-12-2019 11:31 PM
Quadrider10
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvoXRed View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadrider10 View Post
Thanks dude! What year Evos does the pump and center dif does it effect? I'm primary looking at 2014-2015 models. So far I've been doing a lot of reading and scrubbing around d on forums and this is my upgrade path so far:

Stage 1:
-Cobb stage 3
-Cobb intercooler pipes
-Cobb BPV

Stage 1.5:
-Pro tune

Stage 2:
-Ohlins coil overs
- Cobb sway bars

Step 3:
-Fuel injectors?
-Fuel pump?
-Recaro seats
-Rays TS06 wheels

Lol, ive gotten bored while I wait to buy one.

Anything else particular about these cars to look out for when buying?
If you're moving to AZ and you want to keep the car for such a long time, you might want to think about buying the car in AZ versus NJ. Theres a higher probability that there will be less rust/corrosion on the underside of the car from snow/salt on the roads.

Make sure to look at the service history if possible. Diff fluid needs changed if the car has 30K in miles. Most folks on here would recommend changing it sooner for preventative maintenance and how hard the car was driven.

Look at the exhaust bolts to see if they have been tampered with, usually means it was modded and returned to stock.

I would also add the Whiteline roll center kit to your suspension upgrades once you lower the stance. Noticeable difference in handling on the track and is still comfortable for daily driving.

Anyways, good luck with your search. Lots of good cars out there for sale and they are still holding their values.

Thanks, I will definitely be looking out for that stuff.

Although I'll be living in AZ, my home of address will still be NJ, so it will be significantly easier to buy in NJ, however, there are only 12 in a 100 mile radius where I live, and 2 of them I went to go look at were trashed. So if I can't find one in NJ, I'll have to deal with the headaches of buying in AZ but registration in NJ.

For suspension, I actually don't plan on lowering it. I like the stock ride height. But we'll see how AZ is as far as terrain. I heard it's flat there &#x1f602; lol.
06-12-2019 04:34 PM
EvoXRed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadrider10 View Post
Thanks dude! What year Evos does the pump and center dif does it effect? I'm primary looking at 2014-2015 models. So far I've been doing a lot of reading and scrubbing around d on forums and this is my upgrade path so far:

Stage 1:
-Cobb stage 3
-Cobb intercooler pipes
-Cobb BPV

Stage 1.5:
-Pro tune

Stage 2:
-Ohlins coil overs
- Cobb sway bars

Step 3:
-Fuel injectors?
-Fuel pump?
-Recaro seats
-Rays TS06 wheels

Lol, ive gotten bored while I wait to buy one.

Anything else particular about these cars to look out for when buying?
If you're moving to AZ and you want to keep the car for such a long time, you might want to think about buying the car in AZ versus NJ. Theres a higher probability that there will be less rust/corrosion on the underside of the car from snow/salt on the roads.

Make sure to look at the service history if possible. Diff fluid needs changed if the car has 30K in miles. Most folks on here would recommend changing it sooner for preventative maintenance and how hard the car was driven.

Look at the exhaust bolts to see if they have been tampered with, usually means it was modded and returned to stock.

I would also add the Whiteline roll center kit to your suspension upgrades once you lower the stance. Noticeable difference in handling on the track and is still comfortable for daily driving.

Anyways, good luck with your search. Lots of good cars out there for sale and they are still holding their values.
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