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Evo X General General discussion on the 2008+ Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X

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Old 04-24-2019, 07:48 PM   #1
hbagumyan
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Built Motor Break-in

Hi guys,

I just recently got my car back from the shop, we replaced the pistons and rods and sleeved the block, also cams, springs and retainers were changed. I am in the process of breaking in the motor at the moment following the procedure of 500 miles oil change then another 500 and an oil change then off to get tuned. My problem is the car is running extremely lean and it wouldn't be a problem since im driving like a grandma (not exceed 4k rpms or 50% throttle) and trying not to go into boost, but at idle and when the car is in neutral the afrs reach 17-18 and the rpm drops causing the car to stall. Does anyone have any advice on how I can remedy this or what I can do?
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:44 PM   #2
adi105
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This has nothing to do with break in of motor but rather with the tune. What tune are you running? Most tuners will send you a break-in tune to use for a new motor after you pay them. If itís an e tuner itís even easier because you can log that idle and theyíll change the values you need to make it idle right. When I first started my brand new engine with pretty much the same work done to it as yours, it was so lean that it would die if I didnít give it a little throttle. After one or two idle logs, my tuner fixed it up.
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Built 2.0 Shortblock, Wiseco 9.3:1 Pistons, Built by MAPerformance
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ETS 3" Intake | ETS 3" IC Piping | Turbosmart 3-Port BOV (Red Spring) | GS 3-Port EBCS | AEM 340 FP | ID1300 Injectors | Ported MHI 18k Turbo | WTF Flex Fuel Kit | Muse 4" Intercooler | Muse O2 Dump 3" Downpipe | ETS 3" Test Pipe | Magnaflow Muffler

"Live life one gear at a time."
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:57 PM   #3
hbagumyan
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Basically what happened is I had the motor built, broke it in and during tuning I bent the crankshaft. Now all that is fixed with all new bearings and its acting up when I come to a stop at idle the afrs go lean and the car wants to bog and die and I have to give it throttle to keep it alive. Also Ive noticed when I let off the throttle while cruising my afrs go rich around 11 or 12 and stay there for a few seconds, im not sure if that helps with anything.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:07 PM   #4
Metal_AF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbagumyan View Post
during tuning I bent the crankshaft.

WTF?!


Can you explain your fueling setup?
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:12 PM   #5
Splattj
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MAP or MAP + MAF setup? I would suspect a vacuum leak, especially if you're still running the MAF. What's your intake setup? Have you done any boost leak tests?
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Old 04-30-2019, 01:35 AM   #6
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I know you were previously asking about how to handle your fueling on another one of your threads. What did you settle with? I had the same issues you described before installing fuel rail, feed line, return kit, FPD, and regulator. Opening throttle keeps it alive because it needs more air. Are you able to log and upload to datazap to share?

Both issues can be explained if the fuel rail/regulator/FPD isn't set up right. Too much at idle, not enough under throttle.

Last edited by Metal_AF; 04-30-2019 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 04-30-2019, 01:39 AM   #7
Metal_AF
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How do I delete this post?

Last edited by Metal_AF; 04-30-2019 at 01:49 AM. Reason: Duplicated my post?
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Old 04-30-2019, 04:25 AM   #8
hbagumyan
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Fueling setup is the same as when it was from my last full tune, still running id1300s and a single walbro 450 in the tank everything else is stock. I am still running the stock MAF and MAP sensors which were also one when I was tuned before. I also did a boost leak test from the intake and found a leak in the intake and was able to patch it, now it holds pressure but there seems to be a small leak from the LICP but patching the intake didnt seem to help the issue at all which leads me to believe its not because of a boost leak. Also I tried driving with the MAF unplugged and the car would running extremly rich to the point where taking of from a stop the car would bog and the afrs were showing 10.0 which I believe it was below 10 because my sensor only goes as low as 10. During my first built motor break in the car died a few times and the builder said it was the car relearning its idle and after around 100 miles the dying became very infrequent if happened at all. After getting a new crankshaft and bearings this break in has been much worse, I can barely drive the car because after it warms up and I drive it for around 5 minutes it will lean out coming to a stop at idle and almost die without blipping the throttle. If you guys can help me out with this I would really appreciate it I am lost for what it can be at this point.
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Old 04-30-2019, 05:37 PM   #9
Kento240
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Get a new tuner. Ok, in all seriousness. Boost leak test again and this time be sure to spray soapy water on every coupler AND your BOV. Tighten down anything that is causing the soapy water to bubble. Also, I would suggest performing a smoke test thru the exhaust system to ensure that everything is sealed up properly. If your car is still running lean or stalling then its seriously time to consider a new tuner.
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2011 GG EVO X, SSL, Aero, Sunroof
117K miles

2.2L Stroked and sleeved- Wiseco 10:1- Carrillo Pro H Beam Rods- GSC S2- ID1700- Walbaro 525LPH- Radium -8an Fuel Feed and Filter-Cosworth Rail- Aeromotive FPR- Driven Fab T4 EFR 8474 EWG Turbo Kit- MAP test pipe- HKS Hi Power CBE- OS Giken Twin Clutch- MAP CMC


Previous Cars:
2002 Eclipse GT (still own)
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2010 Evo X MR
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Old 04-30-2019, 05:57 PM   #10
adi105
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Suuuuuper long shot, but this once happened to me when I used Evoscan to reset my fuel trims. I used the built in button on the app and my car forgot how to idle. It was terrible and undriveable. If you google the issue with resetting trims with Evoscan, youíll find that for some ungodly reason, cleaning the TB fixed the issue. I donít know why, and I was extremely skeptical, but I removed the coupler and exposed he throttle body then sprayed with carb cleaner and used a shop towel to clean up. After that, the car idled perfectly INSTANTLY. Like I said, long shot but worth a try?
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2013 Evo X GSR

MODS:
Built 2.0 Shortblock, Wiseco 9.3:1 Pistons, Built by MAPerformance
GSC S2 Cams w/ Beehive Springs
ETS 3" Intake | ETS 3" IC Piping | Turbosmart 3-Port BOV (Red Spring) | GS 3-Port EBCS | AEM 340 FP | ID1300 Injectors | Ported MHI 18k Turbo | WTF Flex Fuel Kit | Muse 4" Intercooler | Muse O2 Dump 3" Downpipe | ETS 3" Test Pipe | Magnaflow Muffler

"Live life one gear at a time."
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