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Old 08-24-2015, 06:15 PM   #21
merlion
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quick update, I have stock exhaust manifold. The OTC 10mm stud removal socket is too thick to fit. Going with plan B, 2 nuts process.


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Originally Posted by merlion View Post
Og_Neon, I checked the turbo to manifold bolt and they are tight. I have gone ahead to remove all the exhaust manifold and turbo manifold bolts.

I searched the forums and ordered a metric stud remover, its all good...
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:43 PM   #22
AdhesiveTeflon
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Oil change and look how fucked up the tires are. That's it lol.
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I've yet to lay my ears upon a Tomei but for anyone that has heard a ETS quiet which is what I came from, its about the same loudness until you go WOT, then the ETS screams like a bitch gettin in the ass for the first time whilst the akra is more akin to a 20 year old girl moaning and groaning loudly in your ear but in a sexy way. It's loud but you're loving every second of it.
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:28 AM   #23
DHonovich
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Put the cat pipe back on if you run one...I melted the ETS cat in 1 event...
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:36 AM   #24
insane_DOHC
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Turbo/manifold gasket is definitely the weak point. I've tried many things with no luck. Stock turbo/manifold setup is definitely the most reliable. Mine went 2 weekends before the gasket started failing on me. Better than the Full Race kit, which only lasted a couple laps...
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:07 AM   #25
PracticalDriver
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You guys were not kidding about the turbo to manifold bolts. After 4 track days the exhaust got louder and I hear a loud tea kettle type whistle under boost, LOL. Would go away after a while once it got real hot, comes back at the beginning of the next session. LOL. Anyway, removed my manifold heat shield to find one of the bolts completely backed out. Right now I'm in the process of trying to extract the two manifold studs so that I can replace the gasket in the future much easier with all bolts installed. As merlion pointed out, a stud extractor is too thick to clear the manifold (damn you Mitsubishi!). I tried the two nut method but it was not worth the pain and agony (tight ass space back there) and force required. I am going to weld the OEM nuts to the studs and then use an impact wrench to take out the studs. Then installing a thicker Grimmspeed gasket along with OEM bolts. Then after each track day I'll take off the heat shield and check the torque.

Other notes... I drained and replaced all fresh fluids. After 4 track days (2 hours a day) and 5,000 miles of travel, I re-drained the following fluids:

- transfer case: Fluid was DARK. Drain plug magnet had very visible and thick amounts of metal shavings. I'd consider this fluid done for and needing change. Used OEM fluid.
- rear diff oil: Fluid was dark, say 80% as dark as tcase fluid. Probably a good idea to replace this whenever replacing the tcase fluid. Used OEM fluid.
- transmission fluid: I use redline cocktail. Was maybe 60% as dark as the tcase fluid. Considering redline is esther base stock I'm comfortable with running this fluid for twice the events/mileage as the tcase and rear diff.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:46 AM   #26
Og Neon
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What helped me with my manifold bolts, is getting new conical washers and resetting the torque after I got the car up to temp. If that doesn't work, do a dab of Threadlock red. After several lost bolts, melted gasket and charred firewall, I finally have had success in keeping those bolts locked down.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:49 PM   #27
PracticalDriver
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Well I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my exhaust manifold off. DAMN Mitsubishi for using studs to mount the turbo to the exhaust manifold. I started another thread for help. If anyone has advice, please chime in that thread. Thanks

https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=337562
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:44 PM   #28
PracticalDriver
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Used these washers going forward, hopefully they will help prevent this issue in the future!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKwWu2w1gGk
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