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Track Discussion for track driving techniques, events and results.

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Old 10-16-2014, 08:51 PM   #21
RC10EVOX
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If you are trying to design a good brake duct then it is in your best interest that you try to actually cool off the pads or blow the air into the caliper assembly. Unlike rotors which have vanes designed to help cool the rotor through convection cooling the calipers have no means of cooling and particularly the brake pads/ where they contact with the rotor is critical since you are trying to stay within a given temperature range for the pads to work efficiently. This isn't to say that ducting to the rotor is terrible, after all you are introducing colder air to the immediate area will help drop temps but not the most efficient use of that air, but atleast ducting to the center of the rotor would be a good alternative.


You can always increase the heat capacity of the rotors by going to bigger rotors, but this won't mean that your pads still won't fad under hard decel especially if you're not on street tires. Running on street tires will definitely be less taxing on your brakes since you are more tire limited your brakes don't have to do as much work because your tires will just lock up.

I thought I'd seen someone make a nice DIY brake duct that used the caliper bolts to mount and directed air into the top of the caliper. That setup looked pretty dialed!

Last edited by RC10EVOX; 10-16-2014 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:53 AM   #22
blk-majik
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HP: maybe 50-75lbs under stock weight, oem gsr structs with racecomp springs, whiteline bar on medium setting. Around 325whp. Yea, sounds like your on the right track. As long as your still learning, the car helping out isnt a bad thing. Just remember to dial it back a couple tenths once you get to the point where its getting in the way more than it helps iRacing is great help for that! it really forces you to learn discipline and focus. Yea, the rating system is super harsh

No one really turns rotors these days. Labor costs more than new rotors.

Cooper: Never done Thompson, but it was added to my race series for next season. Looking forward to giving it a shot!
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:21 PM   #23
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Boy you guys are tough... I don't think you could do it for $5, well maybe if you could find some dryer hose that fits.

The kit is designed to get air to the center of the rotor. The duct features a 2.5" 6061 tube that is cut with a double 45 deg. to direct air at the center of the rotor as well as on the spindle/wheel bearing itself.

Mounting them to the factory dust shield allows the retention of the shield to protect the ball joint dust covers from the heat of the rotors. We have found without protection they will have a tendency to melt. It also allows for a less expensive kit. If we had to make a full plate AND protect the dust boots it would cost more.

These cars use a LOT of hose. 12 feet total. We have to have the hose custom made in a 12 foot lengths for this kit, as they are only available from our manufacturer in 10' lengths normally. This would mean 4' of scap for us as we don't have use for 4' of 2.5" in another kit. Also this is not some cheap hose... It is standard Silflex racecar/aircraft grade high temp silicone. It is the biggest cost of the kit.

Contrary to popular belief the high temp ducting is never 100% silicone. It can't be... The particular product used in this kit is silicone coated fiberglass. So there is a typo on the site. I will correct it ASAP.

You can get the hose from HRP but you would spend over $235 retail just for the hose as you would need two (2) 10' lengths to fit the car...

We tried to offer a good value with the kit, and we think we did. Especially when you consider you are getting the complete kit for about $20 more than you would spend on just the hose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-majik View Post
step 1: remove dust shield
step 2: use hole saw to drill 2.5" hole in shield
step 3: run 2.5" Sil-Duct SDH-250X12 from hole to front of car & secure with zipties
step 4: save $250 for about 2 minutes of additional effort than it would take to install this 'kit'

We have vented rotors. Cooling occurs by getting more air to flow THROUGH the rotor, not on top of the rotor. Taking a dremel to the edge of the vanes will do way more than directing air over the disc surface.

I wouldn't use a polyester-based hose if it were me. It punctures easily. For that price, they should be using a fiberglass-based hose. You may be better off using dryer vent ducting...

Last edited by Lambert367; 11-17-2014 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:34 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by tapuout567 View Post
Nope this is not a joke. It is the best place to get the air. The remainder of the openings are used for coolers on the car of some sort. Oil cooler on one side and transmission cooler on the other side (for the MR anyway).

The fog light opening is a natural choice. It also does not require adapters, like we have to sell for other cars for light openings, as the hose fits perfectly.

It's a close up picture so it does not look perfect, but from a couple feet away, believe it or not, it actually looks pretty cool...

This actually brings up another issue, and that is the fact that with this car you are also fighting the hot air dumped into the wheel well from the other coolers. Before we installed this kit on the customer's car he could not run a full session without overheating the brakes. Even with high temp fluid.

Last edited by Lambert367; 11-18-2014 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:53 PM   #25
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One section of 2" hose from racer parts warehouse was enough both sides for my car. It was $50
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
One section of 2" hose from racer parts warehouse was enough both sides for my car. It was $50
The kit uses 2.5" It might be possible to make it to the fog light openings with 5.5' of 2" per side. I never tried it. 2.5" flows a LOT more air than 2".

Last edited by Lambert367; 11-18-2014 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambert367 View Post
The kit uses 2.5" It might be possible to make it to the fog light openings with 5.5' of 2" per side. I never tried it. 2.5" flows a LOT more air than 2".
Fog lights are already gone, i have 2.5 inch naca ducts ziptied to the mesh i replaced the lights with.

My only concern with the kit was how much air actually made it THROUGH the center of the rotor to be pushed out the vanes. Judging from the pics, it seems a good bulk of that air washes over the inside surface of the rotor. If you have more pics detailing this, i'd like to see them.

Because if the air is in fact exclusively pushed through these center vanes, then my friend you've got a winner. And i agree with you on the price. 250 covers hoses and parts if you put together a kit yourself.
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:51 PM   #28
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The duct is designed at an angle to direct air to the center of the rotor specifically. That is always the goal with every kit we manufacture.

This is the best pic I could get from behind:



Of course you can also trim the dust shield as you wish to act as a baffle. In the case of this installation we wanted to maximize airflow. Also the rotor tends to act like a pump to draw incoming air through the center.

Front and AWD cars make it challenging to maximize airflow to the center of the rotor as a great deal of real-estate is used by the drivetrain.

This size rotor on a RWD car would easily accommodate a 3" duct.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:03 AM   #29
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I was hoping to see that exact view with the rotor attatched to the hub to see how much of the inner hat is subjected to direct flow. You mention a baffle.... that may be the only way to force the air into the hat vs onto the rotor. I guess our uprights really limit us on what's possible from a brake cooling perspective.
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Old 11-20-2014, 12:48 PM   #30
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For cooling the disc itself this is the best setup we have used "without" any additional air management. MPG http://www.racingbrake.com/Rotor-Rin...403-01-381.htm
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