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Custom Surge Tank Kit Build

41K views 253 replies 33 participants last post by  Clipse3GT 
#1 · (Edited)
Over the years dealing with Evo's I found there is no good solution for a surge tank kit that is friendly for a DD,Street, or weekend warrior. So after extensive research of surge tanks and applications I might have found a nice solution to all of our problems.

I will be the test pilot for this little operation, but I think it will works.

Here is what I will be installing. It will run in series with my intake walbro 255hp to feed the surge tank at 0 psi this will allow the pump to to have the most flow but not a high pressure.




As you see I will be using a Bosch 044 style pump from Jay Racing which is a improved 044 pump (higher flow). I will also use a one way valve on out put port towards the fuel rail so I do not have a long prime time and that fuel dosent flow back into the fuel tank.

Fuel Pump



One way valve



Right now the fuel system will use 93 octane. However, it will be compatible with E85 using AN fittings/Lines.

The beauty of this kit is that it has a build in fuel pickup inside the surge tank. So it will always fuel the system. With 1 liter to spare it will be enough for most medium hp applications.

I will keep the thread more updated once I have get the parts and start working on the project.

Here is a diagram of what it looks like.


Cost:

Jay Racing 044 - $189.99
034 Motorsports Surge Tank - $215 + 15 for brackets
Jay Racing 1 way Valve - $49.99 (starts immediately with this installed.)
Various Fittings & Hose - ~$200
Electrical - ~$30

Post Install Notes
So this setup does work. It works great actually thus far. However, a AFPR is required to run this setup. You can't use the stock regulator. Secondly, I am almost positive that this setup requires enlarging the return orifice, refer to my other thread for that issue.

Addendum 1: Line sizes

I figured I would post this info up in case some else is doing a custom build for their fuel system.

These are for the OEM fuel fittings located on top of the fuel pump hanger assembly.

Feed line -Actual Dig Caliper (.377) SAE .375" - AN-6
Return line -Actual Dig Caliper (.255) SAE .250" - AN-4

Addendum 2: Wiring

Hook up a Bosch Relay to Switch a Auxillary Fuel Pump

Basic Diagram



Proper Pin Out - So the OEM Fuel Pump switches on the Auxillary Fuel Pump

30 Battery 12v(+)
85 Fuel Pump Connector (D-22) Terminal No. 5 (12V Switched)
86 Fuel Pump Connector (D-22) Terminal No. 4 (GND) or chassis/battery GND
87 12v(+) to Auxillary Fuel Pump

Code:
View of D-22 Fuel Pump Connector - Located ontop of the Fuel Pump Houseing
 
\ 1 2 3  /
 \ 4  5 /


Splice into the blue wire. It will be the 12v switched to turn on the relay.



Give you an idea of how was going to run the wiring.




Addendum 2: Install Pictures












If you notice I have some extra fittings here. I ran short on the feed line and had to extend the line. I was about 1-2 feet short.



Addendum 3: Parts List: (All Parts I used can be ordered from Summit Racing)

Bosch 044 or Variant Jay Racing 044
034 Motorsport Surge Tank
034 Motorsport Mounting Brackets
15' AN 6 Hose
15' AN 4 Hose
10' 10 AWG Red/Black Wire
5' 12 AWG (Any Color) Wire
8x 10-12 AWG Yellow Crimp Connectors (Loop Style / Plug style)
1x Bosch Style Relay - Able to handle 30A continuous (Magnafuel Carries this relay)
30 AMP Fuse
30 AMP Fuse Holder 8 or 10 AWG
13mm Crush Washers or 1/2" Crush Washers that I dremeled out a bit to enlarge.

AN Fitting & Hose List

Special Fittings

1x Russell Performance 640850 - Russell Fuel Rail Fitting Adapters
Fuel Rail Fitting, Aluminum, Blue, Straight, 3/8 in., -6 AN
1x Russell Performance 640940 - Russell Fuel Rail Fitting Adapters
Fuel Rail Fitting, Aluminum, Zinc, Straight, 3/8 in., -6 AN

Regular

2x AN-6 Straight Fitting
1x AN-6 45* Fitting
1x AN-6 90* Fitting
2x AN-4 90* Fittings
1x AN-6 to M12x1.5mm Fitting
2x AN-4 to M12x1.5mm Fittings

Hose (maybe 1 foot left over from each)

15 feet AN-6 (.375")
15 feet AN-4 (.250")

Addendum 4: Tips

1.) All the M12 ends need to have a crush washer & Teflon tape.

2.) All electrical connection must use teflon tape on the screws in the surge tank.

3.) Install the top of surge tank first. Bottom last.

4.)Order goes: Fuel Pump > Crush Washer > Brass Fitting (comes with pump) > Crush Washer > Top of Surge Tank.

5.)Lube the Viton O-ring. Insert the top with pump into surge tank body. Press to seat flush. Then install the bottom. It screws onto the fuel pump itself. Lube O-rings. Then screw on bottom in place.

6.) Hold top in place w/ 24mm Socket. DO NOT TURN THE TOP!!! YOU WILL BREAK THE WIRES!!! Then screws on the top til tight with 24mm socket / wrench.
 
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#7 ·
I think that it would work no doubt. But I think the noise will be less since it is contained in a fluid (gasoline). So I do not think that 044 will be as loud. But adding foam I am sure would help with the noise.

My one concern is...

How will the return be affected by this...

Meaning... since the fuel return is responsible for the venturi effect from the other side of the tank and you will have to Y the return line one going to surge tank and other going to the fuel tank itself. Will we lose the venturi effect from decreased fuel pressure. However, I think with a adjustable FPR you will still be able to main adequate pressure to retain the venturi effect.
 
#11 ·
Yes, it will be very clean. I am just waiting for parts to arrive so I can go to Summit and get the fittings there locally and see what will work. I think we can fit it nicely where the evap sits right now.
 
#14 ·
I got everything on paper currently, mad a rough draft for the fittings needed. But won't know until I dig in and see where to mount it properly. I am looking for a location that is out of the way. Not near a heat source to heat the fuel and gets some cooling in the area. I think the rear panels under the rear bumper on either side will work. Left side being prefered.
 
#15 ·
The other nice part is that the surge tank has a fuel pick-up so it will not start if mounted horizontal.
 
#21 ·
Yes I looked at a lot of options and this is the same way I'm going to go. My only concern with this surge tank is 034 couldn't give me a psi rating on their surge tank seals i.e. if u had a blocked filter/return line issue I was concerned it may piss fuel out of the seals (albeit my concerns may be unwarranted). As I have a JDM spec GSR it'd be easy to mount mine off the LHS rear tow-hook mounts as I have a nice big empty space there unlike the US versions. Mounting surge tanks in the boot like MAP/Evodynamics is illegal over here.
 
#22 ·
I am not sure if we need a vent line or not. But if you put in a vent line you would lose pressure and therefore the venturi effect. So you need a higher pressure in the surge tank. I think these tanks can withstand a good bit of pressure with a correct install and lubing the orings properlly.
 
#23 ·
I posted about this 034 motorsport setup a while back, part of the issue w/ it is the stock return system causing all the issues it does. You seem to know of it and hopefully you get around it well.

Myself, I went to a fuel cell to avoid all of it, but IDK yet how well it works. another week or so. Still, interested to see if this works for you
 
#24 ·
I posted about this 034 motorsport setup a while back, part of the issue w/ it is the stock return system causing all the issues it does. You seem to know of it and hopefully you get around it well.

Myself, I went to a fuel cell to avoid all of it, but IDK yet how well it works. another week or so. Still, interested to see if this works for you
I see now reason why it would not work properly. But there is theory and there is practice.

I should hope it will work great once it primes and all the air is out of the system.
 
#29 ·
Got the fuel pump. Will post some picks later. Seems like a quality piece.
 
#30 ·
Got all of the parts. Just will need the fittings. Depending on which location I choose.

Either beside the Evap System (con is that it is on L Rear Bumper Side - so if you get in a fender bender / some one backs into you. Automatically you cant drive the car.)

Right now I am leaning for for the trunk either where the spare goes or behind the sub and making it super hidden and cover with foam or dynamat to quiet it down.



 
#32 ·
$190 for FP
$215 for Surge Tank (Mounts Optional +15)
$50 for One way valve (optional)

Doing well so far. Just need to get fittings and hoses. Which I estimate another $100+

So you could get away with everything for about ~500 ish... it really depends on the fittings and how clean you want to make everything look.

Plus add in the cost relay, fuseholder, and wiring/connectors. (I have most the stuff around the house. So no biggie. Same for some of the hoses and fittings.
 
#33 ·
Right now I need to find the fitting that allows me to connect to stock fuel feed line and converts to AN-6. To make it all nice and clean and replaceable.
 
#35 ·
Here it is... just need to source it...



 
#37 ·
How crucial is it to keep the return a -6? Will this be to help with venturi? What about supply diameter? I was considering a -10 to the rail from the surge.
I will continue to use a AN6 feed and AN4 return. It is a proven combo for years and I doubt I will be building over a 600hp car on pump.


I think AN10 is overkill honestly...

I think you can easily get away with a AN8, but I think a AN6 is still good for pump. So you could run a new AN8 feed to fuel rail. Then use the stock feed hardline as the return since its AN6 if you need more flow.

Just an opinion.

I think losing too much pressure does cause issues with the venturi effect. I am thinking of adding a fuel pressure gauge to the return side to monitor pressure or at least check it.
 
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