Mod lists and plans

[Quadrider10]

So is the front sway bar worth the trouble of dropping the sub frame the replace?

[Metal_AF]

Originally Posted by Quadrider10

So is the front sway bar worth the trouble of dropping the sub frame the replace?

Time-wise rear sway bar is like 30 mins to install yourself. Front is way more time consuming. Its worth swapping out, but based on what others have posted, not as noticeable as the improvement you get with swapping the rear. Wait until you are already doing something that also requires dropping the front sub frame, like clutch.

[Quadrider10]

Originally Posted by Metal_AF

Time-wise rear sway bar is like 30 mins to install yourself. Front is way more time consuming. Its worth swapping out, but based on what others have posted, not as noticeable as the improvement you get with swapping the rear. Wait until you are already doing something that also requires dropping the front sub frame, like clutch.

Fair enough, what stiffness do u have yours setup to, hardest setting?

[Metal_AF]

Originally Posted by Quadrider10

Fair enough, what stiffness do u have yours setup to, hardest setting?

Went with hotchkis and have it on the middle setting.

[Quadrider10]

Originally Posted by Metal_AF

Went with hotchkis and have it on the middle setting.

Awesome, appreciate the help!

[turismolover22]

Everyone who tunes evos tunes via opensource as a default. I don't think I've personally heard of anyone offering AP tunes as their main/first tuning service.

Downpipe isn't going to hurt performance, but you wont see many gains from it either.

As far as exhaust goes, its all pipes, so look into youtube and see which one you think sounds the best. TBH unless I couldn't find what I wanted in decent condition, 10/10 would buy used/good condition components here.

I would also look for a used intake as well, the fiter elements are fairly cheap to purchase anyway if they are damaged. Stock turbo, the stock airbox should handle about any power level you may make. You might be sacrificing 10 WHP at best after buying a K&N or Cosworth drop in "panel filter" Personally I would buy the Cosworth as it is a dry element style filter.

Do the fuel injectors, pump, EBCS, and any and all tunes at the same time. They will need to tune you for the new injectors when you install them so its going to shut you down until you do so.

UICP might be beneficial. Lower Intercooler pipe won't really benefit you much.

And as far as the sway bars and suspension is concerned, those can be done at any time. Almost everyone I've seen that has tracked their car or driven competitively would suggest a rear sway bar, and keep the front stock.

Some other minor improvements to be made would be to replace the front motor mount, or buy the STM/aftermarket front mount/crossmember. It will help keep the engine from shifting as much. The rear can be done too, but I would suggest to hold off on it until you replace the sway bar if you choose to do so, or inevitably replace the clutch.

My two cents on the subject.

[Quadrider10]

awesome! this has narrowed it down a lot, thanks!

I asked this in my other thread, but i figured id ask it here too:

Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark. To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits.

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf

Also would u recommend running a thicker weight?

[AiZ]

Originally Posted by Quadrider10

awesome! this has narrowed it down a lot, thanks!

I asked this in my other thread, but i figured id ask it here too:

Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark. To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits.

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf

Also would u recommend running a thicker weight?

Yes, AYC fluid is a separate enclosed system, so while the rear diff and AYC use the same fluid they don't really mix.

Both the OEM Gear and ATF fluids are pretty well regarded so I don't think you have a reason to switch them for aftermarket unless you're building a track car and need heavier weight because of temperature reasons.

Here's some discussion about that, Shep Trans recommendations and correct fluid lists:

https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19516

[Quadrider10]

Originally Posted by AiZ

Yes, AYC fluid is a separate enclosed system, so while the rear diff and AYC use the same fluid they don't really mix.

Both the OEM Gear and ATF fluids are pretty well regarded so I don't think you have a reason to switch them for aftermarket unless you're building a track car and need heavier weight because of temperature reasons.

Here's some discussion about that, Shep Trans recommendations and correct fluid lists:

https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19516

Man I've been looking for a thread like this for 2 days! Lol appreciate u posting that!

[dalastcwood]

This is a pretty basic question, but is your car a GSR or an MR?