Downpipe to turbo bolt messed up - replacement? - EvoXForums.com - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Forums
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Evo X Turbo Discussion for turbo systems that are unique to the Evo X. IF THE TOPIC IS COMMON WITH OTHER LANCERS, PLEASE POST IT IN: '08+ Lancer Common.

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Old 03-26-2010, 01:39 AM   #1
onyx1121
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Downpipe to turbo bolt messed up - replacement?

See page 3 for the bolt and what happened - picture included!

I am pretty sure one of the bolts on my downpipe to manifold is pretty messed up. Every other bolt is coming out fine, but one of them turns really rough, almost like it is cross threaded, but it is coming out - slowly...once I start backing it in and out, it loosens up and is fine until I get to a "new area" trying to take it out and it seems to seize right back up again.

So I am guessing I need to replace this bolt, correct? The size is M10x1.25 - so 10mm, 1.25 inches long? I am guessing most stores would have this. What grade do I need or type of bolt do I need?

Also - if anyone has the part number I could try calling a dealership.

I don't have a car now, haha, so I need to try and get a friend to pick me up the part.
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AMS Turbo back exhaust (w/ O2 downpipe), ETS 4" intercooler, Open ECU, Nisei UICP, HM Intake, FP Green, DW 800's, Walbro 255, GM 3port, Blaqops fuel pump kit (E85 compatible).

A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.

Last edited by onyx1121; 03-27-2010 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:43 AM   #2
Whitewind
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Run a tap through it man. If you have dye run, it through the bolt. If don't have dye wire brush it good and lube it up and see how goes back in after you run a tap through the threads.
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitewind View Post
Run a tap through it man. If you have dye run, it through the bolt. If don't have dye wire brush it good and lube it up and see how goes back in after you run a tap through the threads.
I hear you - just thinking, why not get a new bolt if I can. Plus, don't think I have wire brushes, definitely not a tap.
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AMS Turbo back exhaust (w/ O2 downpipe), ETS 4" intercooler, Open ECU, Nisei UICP, HM Intake, FP Green, DW 800's, Walbro 255, GM 3port, Blaqops fuel pump kit (E85 compatible).

A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:17 AM   #4
goofygrin
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def. run a tap through. Replace the bolts. I'd get the OE ones (they're kinda expensive for such shitty bolts, but w/e).



According to the ASA
12797Q -> MN119783 (you need 6)
12797X -> 1515A156 (you need 2)
12739X -> MR385722 (you need 2)
12739 -> MD132933 (you need 5)

Not sure why the discrepancy in numbers.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:19 AM   #5
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Go buy a tap.. but it's hard to do on the car and you run the risk of f'ing it up worse. That bolt will HAVE to be replaced... if you run a new bolt through the jacked threads you're going to likely break the bolt on the way in and then you're f'ed. Try and retap it... the threads on the o2 housing SUCK.
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:10 AM   #6
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I should mention - I'm replacing the turbo and this is on an AMS downpipe. So are the threads on the turbo itself or the AMS downpipe?

It's totally seized now. I've soaked it in PB Blaster and called it a night (i.e. made a vodka tonic and said F' it). This is the ONLY bolt I have problems with. Just this one. Everything else is off and ready to go! Dammit.

So right now the bolt is stuck right now - what do I even do? Forget the tapping, how the hell do I get this thing out?

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AMS Turbo back exhaust (w/ O2 downpipe), ETS 4" intercooler, Open ECU, Nisei UICP, HM Intake, FP Green, DW 800's, Walbro 255, GM 3port, Blaqops fuel pump kit (E85 compatible).

A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:23 AM   #7
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You're pulling the turbo that's in there? and replacing it with another one?

Crank that mother fucker till it breaks (which isn't much)... then let the new owner of your old turbo deal with getting the bolt out of the hotside (protip, buy lots of bits because as shitty as the mitsu bolts are, they take an act of god to drill out -- I've got about 12 hours under my belt doing it).

Those threads are on the turbo hotsize...
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:54 AM   #8
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Since you're letting the bolt soak for the night, you might have some luck in getting it out, but don't hold your breath.

When replacing my downpipe for the first time, two of the bolts seized up. After trying to ease them out for a couple hours, I finally said screw this and broke them off. With the available drill I had, I had to remove the turbo to drill them out. Took 3 sets of bits, 2 days of drilling and 2 cases of beer!

The threads are on the turbo housing, so if you have to drill the bolt out, make sure you don't take too much metal out, so you (or a shop) can tap new threads in the housing.
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goofygrin View Post
You're pulling the turbo that's in there? and replacing it with another one?

Crank that mother fucker till it breaks (which isn't much)... then let the new owner of your old turbo deal with getting the bolt out of the hotside (protip, buy lots of bits because as shitty as the mitsu bolts are, they take an act of god to drill out -- I've got about 12 hours under my belt doing it).

Those threads are on the turbo hotsize...
lol love the wording man!

It really should not break when its out that far man. But like Goofy said turn that bitch till she comes out or breaks since your swapping the turbo.
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Sold the X cause I need F'ing truck!

Build for now is my 78 Corvette twin turbo. Ground up!

looking for wrecked X for sale! Need more projects!
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Old 03-26-2010, 02:37 PM   #10
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Exact same problem I have with the exact same bolt. Its been 2 weeks and i'm still drilling it. 2 bits a night 2 hours every night, i can't believe how hard that bolt is. I even dulled a 50 dollar carbide spade bit used to remove broken taps. I will eventually get it out.
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