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Evo X Transmission & S-AWC System Discussion for transmission, axle, driveshaft, and related systems that are unique to the Evo X. IF THE TOPIC IS COMMON WITH OTHER LANCERS, PLEASE POST IT IN: '08+ Lancer Common.

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Old 06-10-2011, 03:18 PM   #11
lallen3
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Actually, it almost never does it once it's warmed up. Unlike my old 6 puk ACT which would get worse when it got hot. Actually, the ACT would even slip when it tried to ascend a hill while making that noise. I know how to drive a standard VERY well, but that clutch only held up like 8k miles on moderate horsepower (400 crank-ish).

The Spec never loses grip, but the noise is HIDEOUS when it happens. It's just hard to capture on video, I tried this morning.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:26 PM   #12
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Actually, it almost never does it once it's warmed up. Unlike my old 6 puk ACT which would get worse when it got hot. Actually, the ACT would even slip when it tried to ascend a hill while making that noise. I know how to drive a standard VERY well, but that clutch only held up like 8k miles on moderate horsepower (400 crank-ish).

The Spec never loses grip, but the noise is HIDEOUS when it happens. It's just hard to capture on video, I tried this morning.
yeah it sounds like its the type of material thats making it groan. i bet its not an organic clutch but probably has the copper strands in it. clutches and brake pads are a lot alike. you know how "high performance" brake pads make lots of noise till they are warmed up? clutches are the same way. theyre meant to be fully warmed up before theyre abused on.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:33 PM   #13
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Yeah, I agree with ya man. It is not causing any malfunction. And if I let the car idle and warm up, it won't do it, even on the initial take-off that it usually would when cold. And the disc looks like this (metallic):

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Old 06-10-2011, 03:41 PM   #14
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my spec 3 6 puck looks the same as the full face you have. mine does a slight chatter when its cold and then it goes away. mine is a little bit more magnified though because nissan uses a stupid rubber mounted carrier bearing on the drive shaft so the chatter is magnified when i let out the clutch.
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:53 PM   #15
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you can rule out tob very quickly with the car sitting at an idle. tob's will make noise while you idle, then, when you hit the clutch pedal, the whine will disappear. a tob makes no noise almost any other time.
as for the other noise, how many miles do you have on your trans fluid? is it stock fluid? sounds to me like you have a bearing going out in the diff. one of the cross shaft bearings. i need to see an exploded view of the diff to be sure, but thats what its sounding like to me - unless the diff is low on oil... first thing id check is the oil level and condition. you may get away with a slightly heavier oil or using a new oil. but when you do check the oil, check to see if its glittery with copper or brass.
You hit it on the head. The shop said the t-case is hosed.
The mileage on the car is 31k. I planned on doing the fluid change at 30k but haven't gotten to it. The case had never been opened until the shop took a look at things (so OEM fluid). I'll ask the shop your questions and see if they can snap a pic or two.
Since the bearing is probably trashed is a rebuild from Jacks transmissions the best course of action if it's salvageable? I don't want the diff pin issue to arise after everything is put back. A rebuild is 1/2 the cost of a used t-case so I'd like to go that route.
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Old 06-13-2011, 04:03 PM   #16
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You hit it on the head. The shop said the t-case is hosed.
The mileage on the car is 31k. I planned on doing the fluid change at 30k but haven't gotten to it. The case had never been opened until the shop took a look at things (so OEM fluid). I'll ask the shop your questions and see if they can snap a pic or two.
Since the bearing is probably trashed is a rebuild from Jacks transmissions the best course of action if it's salvageable? I don't want the diff pin issue to arise after everything is put back. A rebuild is 1/2 the cost of a used t-case so I'd like to go that route.
The diff pins they fix are in the tranny (if you didn't know). But it is certainly the time to get it done. I'd send it all to Jack's, maybe you'll get a multi-discount
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:50 PM   #17
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You hit it on the head. The shop said the t-case is hosed.
The mileage on the car is 31k. I planned on doing the fluid change at 30k but haven't gotten to it. The case had never been opened until the shop took a look at things (so OEM fluid). I'll ask the shop your questions and see if they can snap a pic or two.
Since the bearing is probably trashed is a rebuild from Jacks transmissions the best course of action if it's salvageable? I don't want the diff pin issue to arise after everything is put back. A rebuild is 1/2 the cost of a used t-case so I'd like to go that route.
well thats good and bad... good that you have a direction, bad that it might be expensive. im ok with rebuilds if theyre using oem or high quality parts during the rebuild. ask them where they get their parts from and ask to see the old parts when theyre done.
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:23 PM   #18
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The diff pins they fix are in the tranny (if you didn't know). But it is certainly the time to get it done. I'd send it all to Jack's, maybe you'll get a multi-discount
Yes, the diff pins are in the tranny...forgot about that. So, I'm wondering if a used ACD is ~$1600 and a tranny rebuild is ~$1200, which should I do. I need both and it makes sense to do both while we're there labor wise, but more downtime plus extra cost sucks....decisions, decisions.
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:26 PM   #19
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Yes, the diff pins are in the tranny...forgot about that. So, I'm wondering if a used ACD is ~$1600 and a tranny rebuild is ~$1200, which should I do. I need both and it makes sense to do both while we're there labor wise, but more downtime plus extra cost sucks....decisions, decisions.
The the ACD rebuildable?
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:08 PM   #20
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The the ACD rebuildable?
I'm calling Jack and Shep to see.
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