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Evo X Wheels, Suspension & Brakes General discussion for wheels, tires, brakes, and suspension topics that are unique to the Evo X. IF THE TOPIC IS COMMON WITH OTHER LANCERS, PLEASE POST IT IN: '08+ Lancer Common.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:35 PM   #1
ticaaal70
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Brake fluid flush and brake pad change

My brake pads are relatively worn and I am low on brake fluid (according to the light on my dash)

Should I change my brake pads first then do the brake flush or brake fluid flush then brake pad change?
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:53 PM   #2
LeesEvoX
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Change the pads, then flush the brake fluid

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Old 02-21-2019, 05:01 PM   #3
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Just when you will be changing the pads, open the bleeder valves when pushing the calipers back in - if you don't you will push all the gunk up to the master cylinder and good bye seal.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:14 PM   #4
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Just when you will be changing the pads, open the bleeder valves when pushing the calipers back in - if you don't you will push all the gunk up to the master cylinder and good bye seal.
As in open both bleeder valves at the same time then push the calipers back in? Thanks
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by LeesEvoX View Post
Change the pads, then flush the brake fluid.
Is more best to change the fluid FIRST as it's possible (and very likely) that when pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper the dirty fluid will get pushed back to the MC through the ABS valves. Which is bad.

Change fluid first. Pump at least a "pint past clear" through each corner doing the inside bleeder first. Then 1/2 pint past clear on each outside bleeder.

Lastly, have a helper (or rig a device) to hold the brake pedal mid-level, without movement, while opening an individual bleeder screw and pushing back the associated piston(s) - lever between the rotor and work pad surface - DO NOT lever on the pistons), remove worn pad, install new lubed pad, close bleeder screw,

Lather, rinse, repeat for remaining pads/corners.

Be sure to get brake peddl pressure when finished - pump pedal as needed to bring the new pads in contact with the rotors. Then top (to full line) MC level.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:48 PM   #6
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Be sure to get brake peddl pressure when finished - pump pedal as needed to bring the new pads in contact with the rotors. Then top (to full line) MC level.
This always gets me. I always roll out of the garage and get cold sweat trying to "find" my brakes
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:03 PM   #7
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Is more best to change the fluid FIRST as it's possible (and very likely) that when pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper the dirty fluid will get pushed back to the MC through the ABS valves. Which is bad.

Change fluid first. Pump at least a "pint past clear" through each corner doing the inside bleeder first. Then 1/2 pint past clear on each outside bleeder.

Lastly, have a helper (or rig a device) to hold the brake pedal mid-level, without movement, while opening an individual bleeder screw and pushing back the associated piston(s) - lever between the rotor and work pad surface - DO NOT lever on the pistons), remove worn pad, install new lubed pad, close bleeder screw,

Lather, rinse, repeat for remaining pads/corners.

Be sure to get brake peddl pressure when finished - pump pedal as needed to bring the new pads in contact with the rotors. Then top (to full line) MC level.
So will I need more than 1 liter to complete a full flush? I only purchased one liter of ATE blue.
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:43 PM   #8
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So will I need more than 1 liter to complete a full flush? I only purchased one liter of ATE blue.
If the fluid is not already fresh, I would plan on at least 6 liters for a complete flush.
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:43 AM   #9
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Why the flush?
I have almost 200000 miles on my X MR and I always pushed the pads back with never a problem. I never seen someone reaplace the fluid because of new pads.
Racing guys yes, For aggressive DD in my 200000 miles I never needed it.
I’m on my 3rd set of rotors and probably the 6-8 set of pads that were always pushed back.
Currently aero two piece rotors and some great pads.
My X stops way better than stock!
Still original 2010 brake fluid.
I never added or topped off the fluid ever, brake fluid is clear too.
Maybe I’m just lucky?
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Old 02-27-2019, 02:33 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by MR. EVO MR View Post
Why the flush?
I have almost 200000 miles on my X MR and I always pushed the pads back with never a problem. I never seen someone reaplace the fluid because of new pads.
Racing guys yes, For aggressive DD in my 200000 miles I never needed it.
I’m on my 3rd set of rotors and probably the 6-8 set of pads that were always pushed back.
Currently aero two piece rotors and some great pads.
My X stops way better than stock!
Still original 2010 brake fluid.
I never added or topped off the fluid ever, brake fluid is clear too.
Maybe I’m just lucky?
Then you've been doing it wrong all these years.

Do you change your engine oil?? All fluids wear out, absorb moisture, collect dirt, etc.

Not lucky - more stupid. IMHO.

Get yourself a brake fluid moisture tester. Test the fluid in the MC and then pump 100cc out of a caliper and test that too. I've got $20 here that says your fluid has at least 2% water in it now (that means it should have been changed 3+ years ago).

While you're at it, price a new/replacement ABS block.
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