Alright boys, Sorry for how long its been since I made this initial post, life has been a little crazy but I've been working on this as have time, Ill add photos later but for now here is a write-up of everything I know so-far.
-1. Block Hierarchy
So lets start things off with what blocks are what and which ones are better in what application.
The first thing to understand is that Chrysler, Mitsubishi and Hyundai DO share a nearly identical engine block, while this is well known and parts compatibility is generally accepted here are the differences I've been able to find.
The first thing is one I'm still looking into but is something that has been inherited from the 4G6# Series of engines, Anyone who has worked with the 4G6# Family of engines should be familiar with the differences between "Narowblock" and "Wideblock" engines.
From what I've been able to find that bolt pattern was carried over to the world series of engines, from the blocks I've been able to get my hands on it seems to have gone something like this
............................................................................/---- Hyundai RWD Wideblock (Opendeck, Frontsump, Aside from the 4B11T the most custom block) {Different hard-points for the accessories}
........................................................................../
......................................................................../------- Hyundai FWD Narrowblock (Alot of sub variants here) {Opendeck, Turbo and N/A no real block differences}
....................................................................../
4G6#-(Wide & Narrow)-World Series-- Mitsubishi FWD Narrowblock (N/A) (Opendeck, Different sized crank and piston bushings/bearings)
......................................................................\
........................................................................\------- Mitsubishi FWD Narrowblock (Turbo) {Semiclosed deck, stronger internals, different sized crank and piston bushings/bearings)
..........................................................................\
............................................................................\---- Chrysler FWD Narrowblock (N/A except for the SRT4) {Opendeck, N\A is kinda shit, SRT4 is an exelent engine and is inbetween the 4B and G4}
-2. Oiling Issues
Lets be honest, all of the world series engines have oiling issues of some form or another, the only thing you can do is to make sure you torque everything down to spec have a good oil-pump and keep your res full, any suggestions here would be appreciated
As for oiling on a FWD to RWD conversion you have two options, You can buy the ladderfame (The Hyundai guys call them upper oil pans) Oil pump and front cover from a Hyundai Genesis (for a front sump) or custom make a rear sump / dry-sump setup.
The oil passages on the Genesis are the same as the N/A FWD Blocks so its the easiest path IMO, However then you have to make a adapter for the top 2/3rds of the transmission to bolt up.
I'm not sure on if the Genesis Oil-pan will work the 4B11T block as I don't have one on hand and know that the head at least has an extra oil passage.
-3. Stronger pistons / rods
So you want to build a N/A Motor and need stronger internals? Well to be honest you are out of luck😂 Mitsubishi decided to use a In between size for the crank and piston sizes (Possibly another legacy from the 4g6# days)
Because of this there is not really a lot of performance parts for our N/A engines, I was only able to fine 1 (yes 1!) company that sells upgraded rods for the N/A platform.
So how do you feel about Maxspedingrods? 😂 Because that's you only option without modifying either your crank or rods, or you can order custom but that's expensive.
After talking with my buddy who works at a machine shop I decided to give them a go, To be honest they are much nicer then I expected once I've got budget set aside they will be getting modified.
So I've got rods but what about pistons, Again Mitsubishi decided to go with strange wrist-pin sizes (21mm), Because of this I had planned on using a set of pistons from a Honda K-Series and modifying the rods, since then I've found that a couple of AUDI engines use 21mm Wrist pins so I will be looking into that and will update this with what I find out.
The most important thing to keep in mind is oiling and compression, check all your measurements thrice
-4. Strengthening the block
Onto The blocks, the N/A platforms by design aren't made for big power I'd say 275HP is probably the max safe on a stock N/A block.
If you want to make more power you have a couple of options, Sleeves, Pinning or a Deckguard, each of which has advantages and disadvantages.
So Sleeves are the most expensive option but the best, It'll give you the strongest block and if done properly the longest lifespan for your project.
Pinning is probably the cheapest option but is my least favorite, it does strengthen the block but I've seen unspeakable horrors from it being done improperly so I definitely prefer a;
Deckguard, Cheap, if designed and installed properly it is stronger and safer then pinning and is reasonably affordable to have installed.
-5. Turbocharging a N/A Motor
You've got your block strengthened and upgraded your pistons and rods, now you're onto choosing a turbo and thankfully here you have a-lot of stock and aftermarket options
Evo / Ralliart
What I'd go for as the manifolds match the exhaust ports on the engine and there is plenty of aftermarket support for upgrades
Hyundai Genesis
The Exhaust ports are a different shape so they will need ported but all the bolts lineup and the turbo is a good quality
Hyundai 6th generation Sonata and 3rd generation Optima
It's part of the World family but I've not had a chance to look into them, they "should" be compatible though
Dodge Caliber SRT4
Same as the Sonata and Optima turbos, Part of the family and should be compatible but I'm not sure about porting
-6. Intake
I have a Hyundai Genesis Intake and again although the it has a different port shape is otherwise compatible, for RWD it is your only option unless you go custom.
I recently got some high temp filament and once I upgrade my 3d printer I will be making a custom manifold for a larger throttle-body and and return fuel system
-7. Accessories
With the exception of the hardpoints on the Genesis engine being changed to better suit a RWD application all of the other engines seem to share a common accessory system.
this is where you have to get creative based on your application, I'm still working things out and will probably be the focus of my next update.
-8. Transmission
I'd suggest taking a look at the projectzerog.com forum for transmission options but to summarize your RWD options:
Wideblock:
Stock Starion Transmission
Mazda B2600 / RX7 Transmission
Chad Samuel's T56 adapter
Stock Genesis Transmission
Narrowblock:
D50 Transmission from a narrowblock truck
Bill Hincher's Toyota adapters
PMC Motorsport RX8 Transmission adapter
-9. My build
So for this project here is my parts list so far
4B11 Block
G4 Upper Oil Pan / Pump
Maxspeedingrods rods
Pistons from a Honda but might get switched out for some from a Audi
Intake from a G4 But Will be changed to a custom 3d printed one
Exhaust manifold from a EVO X
Turbo from a Ralliart but it will be upgraded later
Deckguard from RZCrew
Genesis Transmission
Thx for your guys interest and sorry for how long its been, it'll probably be until after I move before I update again but If I find out anything major I will post it here.
If anyone has any questions just lmk and I'll do my best to answer them
-Casey
