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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone replaced their pump? I'm looking for a manual/how-to. Mine service light is on and the code is C161E for pump failure. I'm curious if this is a job I can do myself or do I need a lift. How long should it take for the average human, etc. I know I need to bleed the Controllers.
 

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I would also be interested in a how to as Mitsubishi Canada is not offering any solution to these failing every time it gets cold out so it looks like it will have to be something I do my self...

MitsuLover, I am guessing you guy hit a cold snap and it died?
 

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Sort of makes you wonder what exactly is failing on these pumps. I mean, there's the actual pump part, but also a pressure vessel and an assortment of wiring and fluid lines. Maybe one day we'll figure out how to fix/upgrade the pump assembly instead of just replacing it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah it's been cold but not abnormally so. My car recently hit 45K miles and the temps have been around 20F. I've posted on the other forums but nothing.....

There's 3 solenoids, main pump, accumulator, pump body, and wiring.
 

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Sort of makes you wonder what exactly is failing on these pumps. I mean, there's the actual pump part, but also a pressure vessel and an assortment of wiring and fluid lines. Maybe one day we'll figure out how to fix/upgrade the pump assembly instead of just replacing it...
It depends. My guess on the pumps in the much colder climates is motor failure. Pumping the ATF when it becomes sludge just burns out the motor. It would be nice if Mitsu had some sort of fusing or time out on the motor (like just about ANY electrical motor has), that would protect it. Other failures include bad corrosion of the housing. This is the case in most northeast climates that get hammered with salt in the colder months. In that case bearings seize and seals begin to leak internally because the housing is badly corroded. I've religiously sprayed mine down about every month with some anticorrosion spray hoping to curb that as long as possible. It doesn't take them long to start to really oxidize badly. As far as valving, from the research I've done, those don't go bad that often. Solenoid valves are ridiculously simple and for one to go bad is probably unlikely. I've also read that the accumulators can loose pressure, so basically your pump is running overtime to try and keep up with demand. Roger Rally has outfitted pumps with larger capacity units to try and accommodate that issue. For a long term fix, a new fluid that is more stable at very low temps is necessary along with a housing that is more resistant to corrosion. Possibly an aftermarket housing machined from stainless or aluminum would be an option too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There's a company selling covers for the assembly due to it being behind the rear wheel :duh:. If I remember correctly it's a European company and it was $150 shipped.
 

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To replace the pump is not very hard, I believe it can be done on the ground, I used a hoist, but the tire needs to come off, I think there's only four bolts, plus the lines, and then the electrical connectors and it comes out! After you put the new pump in you'll have to bring it to the dealer bleed the pump, or I think you can get a program that allows you to use the evoscan to bleed it.
As for what fails, I tested mine after I took it out and the motor and solenoids all work so I'm guessing either the pump just won't make enough pressure or the accumulator lost charge
 

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I was talking to a mec. friend that works for Mitsu today and he was telling me that he pulled a couple apart and cleaned them and they pressured up again... so it would seem that cold adds to the issue according to him but corrosion is the big problem.
 

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Has anyone replaced their pump? I'm looking for a manual/how-to. Mine service light is on and the code is C161E for pump failure. I'm curious if this is a job I can do myself or do I need a lift. How long should it take for the average human, etc. I know I need to bleed the Controllers.
You can do job yourself and I can overhaul your pump , you don't need lift but you will need to raise your passenger rear corner and remove wheel ( always work safe don't take chance ). Bleeding you may and may not need to do there is solution for that part as well
 

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It's very easy to do, I changed ours over at the race track in about 30mins. No big deal at all, bleeding takes just as long as the change itself. Always best to bleed the ACD then the AYC.
 

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You can run it without pump working, just don't run with pump removed, because I assume you will have hoses and lines there that will leak fluid, get dirty and who know what other issues would computer assume :D

Many people on this forum have said that it's fine to drive the car without the ACD/AYC pump working. What is it that's bad about driving without the pump working?
 

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Correct.

The pump has three channels, left, right and centre. Centre is to the transfer, hence why you need that connected, as far as not having your AYC working, yeah you can drive your car with an open diff.
 
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