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Magnuson-Moss looks great in black and white, but in real life it pales to a dull grey.

I typically explain it to people as "Yes, aftermarket parts do not void your warranty if the modification and failure system are unrelated." In other words, if you have an aftermarket clutch in your car and you A/C unit fails, they cannot deny warranty. However, with said clutch in the car, kiss your trans/t-case/axle/rear warranties goodbye. Same thing with something as simple as a boost controller and the entire driveline.

The way they'll justify it (and in real-world-sense, it's completely reasonable) is that you have a boost controller or engine performance part "X". This added more power, thus added more stress above and beyond what the driveline was intended for--therefore, warranty denied. Pretty easy to show in a courtroom.

Doesn't matter if you take the car back in without the boost controller for warranty work--if they know the car was modified from stock they can deny warranty.

As for the burden of proof, sure sounds great, but in real life the "burden of proof" lies with the consumer. Do you think that they have to take you to court to deny warranty? No, they simply just deny it. If the consumer has grounds to for a reasonable case, then THEY have to start the lawsuit. Sure looks like the burden of proof is on the consumer, not the manufacturer here....

End result: If you want to keep your full warranty, either don't modify the car or make sure that whenever you take the car back in to the dealership you remove the aftermarket parts (even for an oil change, etc.) and watch what you post on the internet about your car being modified or you racing it. I've seen manufacturers use forum information to deny coverage first hand.
 

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Magnusson-Moss doesn't stop the dealer from putting you through hell before they touch your car. No sir. Just like the poster above said if you add power then the dealer will of course say you must have caused the broken diff or burnt clutch because of it.

I'm ok with taking mods off for service. I just want to be sure they can't tell if I've messed with the ECU. I'm not planning to go crazy so removing parts should be a snap ie exaust, intake, IC/bov pipes, AP
 

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A lot of people think that just going back to stock is a very simple process. Bolt-on, bolt-off. But service departments and manufacturers are getting more and more keen as well. Before you go bolting on an application, take a look at the actual bolt you will be removing. It might have a line going right through it written in some sort of pink or orange ink. These 'line through' markings have been used by manufacturers and service departments recently to see if anyone has been tampering with the factory bolts. There's even one on the battery terminals. Why did the factory do this? Simply because of the overflow of people who have come in with regards to warranty issue that is totally the fault of the owner, but try to have their issue taken care of by the dealership service department. So, while you might have a legitimate claim, those who have come before you who have tried to work the system have put these countermeasures into place.

When a service writer comes back and asks if the car has been modified in any way and the warranty claimant comes back with an answer of 'none whatsoever' and the bolt holding the downpipe to the b-pipe is obviously something picked up from Sears, everything that is said afterwards is all for naught. Simply put, you've just called yourself out as a liar and whatever you say from that point on will be put through great scrutiny by the service writer. When I was doing service writing, I always gave customers a second chance to recant their statement. I would look them dead in the eye and say, "I'm going to ask this again, and this goes a long way towards whether or not this is going to be covered or not. Did you or someone you know modify the vehicle in any way, shape or form?" 99% of the time, they would stick to their guns and say 'not in any way'. So I would come back and ask, "How did a grade 8 non-Mitsubishi stainless steel bolt find it's way into your exhaust system?" At that point, it's usually just silence or a shrug. I gave them the honorable way out rather than jump up and down and flame them for lying to me dead to my face. I mean, honestly, did the fairy fucking Godmother just happen to put it in there without you knowing?

People cry and rant about how their modified car should be covered under the Mitsubishi warranty, yet at the same time, I ask this. Let's say you owned a hard disk drive company that manufactured a 40GB hard drive. You placed a tamper proof sticker on the casing with large letters that read "REMOVAL OF THIS STICKER VOIDS MANUFACTURER WARRANTY". Someone buys your hard drive and opens it up and decides to 'tweak' it to have it transfer data at a higher rate, somehow. It's great! Now the customer has a hard drive that works slightly faster than what it originally was meant to do and he/she can now transfer their Paris Hilton porno file at a slightly higher than normal speed and can brag to all their friends on the disk drive forums about their breaktrough in speed conquest on their hard drive. All of a sudden, one day, the hard drive just seizes up. The customer comes to you with the hard drive and asks that it be taken care of under warranty, since they've only had it for 2 weeks. You turn it over in your hand and realize that the tamper-proof sticker has been obviously removed. The customer is demanding that the drive be either repaired or replaced as per the terms of the warranty. You ask the customer if they had tampered with the hard drive in anyway. The customer says, "No." You even go as far as asking the same question again. The same answer comes out. "No" As a for-profit business would you honestly replace or repair that hard drive with no cost to the customer, knowing full well that they are just trying to get over on you and YOUR business? The car business is very similar. Just because one dealership in a network might do it, doesn't make it law for other dealerships. Dealership service departments follow a strict code of checks and balances when it comes to Evo warranty service. Some dealerships have very inexperienced techs that will not know what to look for and give the OK to process the warranty claim. Do you really want a C-tech, 2 weeks out of Lincoln Tech to be the one working on your warranty claim? I'm sure you'd want a Master Tech working on it. But on the flip side of the coin, the master tech knows what to look for as well. Is warranty work a paid work? Yes it is. But it pays significantly less than regular work and the Master Tech is not there to work for pennies on the dollar. He is there to make a living, just as most all of you try to do as well, no? So if he's got a clutch job that's only going to pay him a fraction of the money that a full paying Montero engine swap is going to pay, which one would you take if you were in his shoes?

I know it sounds like a sham, but in all reality, if you're not 100% un-tampered factory, you are not entitled to the coverage that the manufacturer warranty affords. And just to go over what that warranty means... it's to protect the consumer from a factory defect in quality or worksmanship for the factory settings. In stock form, the factory parts should not fail. In the event that they do, then warranty coverage is there to protect. In the event that you decided to throw another 50 or some odd horsepower to the system, then the factory stress levels are superceded, just as in the hard disk drive anology that I mentioned. It's not 'fucked up' or 'bullshit'. It's simply what the factory put in place to protect itself. I know nobody wants to hear that and they could care less if their manufacturer goes under tomorrow or not, but if Mitsubishi were to pay for every modified car that was out there that had a failure due to over stress, the company would have gone under quite a while ago, and there would be no Evo X afforded to the community.

I know people like to rant about when this happens, but that's like complaining that your significant other won't blow your cock after you come home from work and your crotch smells more like your ass and you haven't taken the time to freshen up. It's all up to you as the owner. You have to take a long hard look and ponder if it's really worth it. Did you buy the Evo to become a horsepower dyno queen in efforts to show up to local meets and post up dyno sheets of how you made XX amount of power just by doing this or that, without any regards for what the ramifications would be for doing it? Or did you buy the Evo to have one of the best pound for pound dollar for dollar cars that is available on the market today? A lot of thought has to go into your car when you decide to unbolt something based off your desire for power. Is it worth it? I ask anyone looking to modify their car, "Is it worth it in the long run?"
 

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It is still a very thin line... Mitsubishi and its service department cannot run a monopoly on you. If you do your own maintenance or take it to another shop you have very good reason for that bolt to be different or for purchasing the clutch you did.
 

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This was stated before in another thread but it also depends on the dealership. Some dealerships 'cross every (T) and dot every (I)' to make sure they are within company policy of doing warranty work......going exactly 'by the book' so to speak. And some dealerships, such as one of my previous car's I owned (a very well known company), aloud me to mod my car without even touching my warranty. Hell they had their own mechanics install a huge percentile of the aftermarket parts on my car and I took it back a few times because of some issues, they would fix it without the mention of warranty.
 

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excellent point. I'll be changing ALL my own fluids. I'll use the Dia' stuff for some though but the rest gets the goods. I will use fresh Mits' bolts for the big stuff like exaust. For sure I'll be looking for the 'right' dealer
 

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Ah, is this that new thing called 'sarcasm'?

The OEM replacement bolts you pick up at the parts window don't have 'lines'. When the car is assembled at the factory, they mark the bolts there.

nah wasn't being sarcastic at all...I was just taking a deep breath after that longish' post and I did not know the replacement bolts don't have lines..damn. Appreciate the post and info though. I'm not modding for big power as this car is basically going to be STX class Auto X. Just want to make it run 'normal' and not piggy rich like the factory set it up to be.

Simple> Accessport, drop in, midpipe and some IC pipes. 1 map for track and the ability to bring it back to stock with a quick removal of 3 or 4 15 minute installs'...that's it + some suspension mods. You gotta' admit that was one long ass post. Seems you have a little tension there when it comes to warranties. Chill 'cause I meant no disrespect
 

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Ah, is this that new thing called 'sarcasm'?

The OEM replacement bolts you pick up at the parts window don't have 'lines'. When the car is assembled at the factory, they mark the bolts there.
If I were to bring my car to your dealership for warranty work, would you, in your opinion, refuse to do the warranty work because I have a WORKS drop in air filter?
 

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No tension whatsoever, brother. Just letting you know how it's seen from the other side of the fence, what we look for and how we justify our position. Yes, kind of long, but informative, nonetheless.

As many people have seen (myself included) the factory ECU settings run the car rich to protect the engine from any harm that might come it's way. It's not meant to hold anyone back, but rather keep them in a safe zone for the sake of the car's longevity. All I'm saying is that if people are going to play, they should be just as well ready to pay when something that the factory hasn't recommended has been done to the car.

I own a very highly modified '05 Evo VIII MR, and even though I work for the company, I am subject to the very same rules as the next customer. The main difference is that I know my worn clutch is from over 600 horsepower being thrown at the tranny and not because I like to keep my car at the top of the hill by slipping the clutch. =D

I'm just glad you're not dragging. Wait till the draggers get to the 1320 with their Xs. S-AYC will do a Bruce Lee roundhouse on them. =O
 

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No tension whatsoever, brother. Just letting you know how it's seen from the other side of the fence, what we look for and how we justify our position. Yes, kind of long, but informative, nonetheless.

As many people have seen (myself included) the factory ECU settings run the car rich to protect the engine from any harm that might come it's way. It's not meant to hold anyone back, but rather keep them in a safe zone for the sake of the car's longevity. All I'm saying is that if people are going to play, they should be just as well ready to pay when something that the factory hasn't recommended has been done to the car.

I own a very highly modified '05 Evo VIII MR, and even though I work for the company, I am subject to the very same rules as the next customer. The main difference is that I know my worn clutch is from over 600

horsepower being thrown at the tranny and not because I like to keep my

car at the top of the hill by slipping the clutch. =D

I'm just glad you're not dragging. Wait till the draggers get to the 1320 with their Xs. S-AYC will do a Bruce Lee roundhouse on them. =O

Well I can say that when my car is tuned properly I believe it will be running just right. Not real lean...and not rich. Now that's how you make a motor last. Not to mention making the cats go farther + the rest of the systems that don't like it rich. Not looking to drag the car or push the limits. I just want it run the way it should 'cause right now it's dirty pig
 

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To each their own on that, Moose. You have every right to modify your vehicle the way you see fit. Nobody is saying that you 'can't'. I just like being very black or white about a topic, as I do not like gray areas and it's better overall for people to know where they stand and give them an objective reasoning as to why it is what it is.

Sure, the factory tune is very rich. But as far as the cats go, they are covered by the federal catalyzer warranty if they are to fail. Every car manufacturer has to follow that one.

You planning on using the Accessport to do your tune? Why not Shiv's Proceed *cough* Haltech *cough*?
 

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To each their own on that, Moose. You have every right to modify your vehicle the way you see fit. Nobody is saying that you 'can't'. I just like being very black or white about a topic, as I do not like gray areas and it's better overall for people to know where they stand and give them an objective reasoning as to why it is what it is.

Sure, the factory tune is very rich. But as far as the cats go, they are covered by the federal catalyzer warranty if they are to fail. Every car manufacturer has to follow that one.

You planning on using the Accessport to do your tune? Why not Shiv's Proceed *cough* Haltech *cough*?
Is it true that if I were to take it out of the car and sent it to the dealership for warranty work, it will not be detectable?
 
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