[EvilEvo26]

Hello everyone I am currently building the full motor and transmission in my 08 x MR and while it is out I was wondering if anyone could provide any advice on motor mounts swap if I will track the car and also use it as a daily driver for now? If you could give me any advice I would greatly appreciate it!

 

[Demi]

You know Ive been wondering this too. Ive never seen a broken evo engine mount... but im not sure if thats because people upgrade them or what.

 

[EvilEvo26]

You know Ive been wondering this too. Ive never seen a broken evo engine mount... but im not sure if thats because people upgrade them or what.

I know right.. I would immediately upgrade if I was strictly going to track the car and I know that it would be a noticeable difference with solid mounts like the Boomba options especially in corners and launches but I am also going to be daily driving the car and if it is worth it I will do it but I need more info..

 

[Demi]

I saw huge improvements on my mazdaspeed3 when I changed those. It shifted better and lurched less and all kinds of improvements. It did however increase NHV. Fuck im gonna get em. I didnt buy this car to be a caddie anyway.

 

[chetrickerman]

If you get stiffer motor mounts, it will rattle the interior more, but they do break in after a while and become more mild.

 

[EvilEvo26]

I guess I am just wondering if I will really see much of a performance difference in my MR or if I should just not worry about them for now?

 

[chetrickerman]

If you do see any performance gains (hp) it will be very little. I just did it so my engine/trans doesn't move under high load.

 

[EvilEvo26]

Would it be better to go with the AMS urethane type or Boomba solid?

 

[KickAss]

Stocks mount bushings will crack over time. Lord knows mine started cracking within an year of ownership and zero mod/racing. The biggest benefit is the tighter feel they(aftermarket versions) provide. You basically avoid a lump of metal in your engine bay from dancing around as much leading to a muddied feel of the car. Although you do it at the expense of comfort.

You can just do bushings, there is no need to do the whole mount unless you want to avoid having to deal with a press for the bushings etc.

 

[Billett]

do you mind a little vibration? I'd go solid, but the rattles don't bother me

 

[Billett]

Stocks mount bushings will crack over time. Lord knows mine started cracking within an year of ownership and zero mod/racing. The biggest benefit is the tighter feel they provide. You basically avoid a lump of metal in your engine bay from dancing around as much leading to a muddied feel of the car. Although you do it at the expense of comfort.

My truck is the same way. It's a fairly easy way to prevent a potential disaster down the road

 

[KickAss]

Try to use the urethane ones with the stock mounts. The only one you may want to change would be the rear mount as a modular aftermarket one makes for easy working down there.

 

[Billett]

why urethane over solid?

 

[Demi]

why urethane over solid?

NVH. Solid mount are ridiculous.

 

[Ttsumibishi]

I saw huge improvements on my mazdaspeed3 when I changed those. It shifted better and lurched less and all kinds of improvements. It did however increase NHV. Fuck im gonna get em. I didnt buy this car to be a caddie anyway.

Same here. I did just the front motor mount (AMS 70A durometer, so nothing crazy) and overall shifting/lurching was GREAAATLY improved.

If you get stiffer motor mounts, it will rattle the interior more, but they do break in after a while and become more mild.

Exactly. First few weeks you get a little more vibration, at first you go "WTF did I do???" then they break in and settle and you don't even really notice it anymore. The benefit, to me, is worth it. The initial vibrations, with 70A mount at least, was very little regardless. You get the same vibration in the car with just a Tomei exhaust I think - haha.

Now add tomei exhaust and cams and you have quite a massage chair underneath you. lol

Would it be better to go with the AMS urethane type or Boomba solid?

Urethane for street/DD definitely. Solid will vibrate more and never "settle"/break in, there'll be no dampening whatsoever.

Try to use the urethane ones with the stock mounts. The only one you may want to change would be the rear mount as a modular aftermarket one makes for easy working down there.

Yea. Best part is with AMS you can buy the entire mount as a unit instead of paying a shop to press a new bushing in. Costs a little more but then it's a direct unbolt/bolt swap (takes 30 mins MAX) and you can undo if you don't like it and sell.

 

[Jkapinos]

I did the AMS lightweight frt crossmember, both cam and trans side bushings. Then for the rear engine mount I went with Boomba. I did all the AMS stuff when I first got the car in 2008. All I can say is I love them and my car shifts great.

 

[Billett]

NVH. Solid mount are ridiculous.

How bad is it with these? I've been in several v6 and v8 cars with solid mounts, including my s10 and it isn't as bad as you would think. They get a bad rap, but have you driven with some for a while?

 

[Stark Industries]

I have the AMS (red 70) front motor mount only... it makes the car vibrate like a bed with "magic fingers" at idle but the engine loves it and shifting seems easier.

 

[Evo_Zero]

Sub'd


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.

 

[Billett]

I have the AMS (red 70) front motor mount only... it makes the car vibrate like a bed with "magic fingers" at idle but the engine loves it and shifting seems easier.

same, mine has a bit of a vibration below 1k or so, but other than that its really nice