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Are motor mounts necessary?

19K views 45 replies 15 participants last post by  KickAss 
#1 ·
Hello everyone I am currently building the full motor and transmission in my 08 x MR and while it is out I was wondering if anyone could provide any advice on motor mounts swap if I will track the car and also use it as a daily driver for now? If you could give me any advice I would greatly appreciate it!
 
#3 ·
I know right.. I would immediately upgrade if I was strictly going to track the car and I know that it would be a noticeable difference with solid mounts like the Boomba options especially in corners and launches but I am also going to be daily driving the car and if it is worth it I will do it but I need more info..
 
#4 ·
I saw huge improvements on my mazdaspeed3 when I changed those. It shifted better and lurched less and all kinds of improvements. It did however increase NHV. Fuck im gonna get em. I didnt buy this car to be a caddie anyway.
 
#15 ·
Same here. I did just the front motor mount (AMS 70A durometer, so nothing crazy) and overall shifting/lurching was GREAAATLY improved.

If you get stiffer motor mounts, it will rattle the interior more, but they do break in after a while and become more mild.
Exactly. First few weeks you get a little more vibration, at first you go "WTF did I do???" then they break in and settle and you don't even really notice it anymore. The benefit, to me, is worth it. The initial vibrations, with 70A mount at least, was very little regardless. You get the same vibration in the car with just a Tomei exhaust I think - haha.

Now add tomei exhaust and cams and you have quite a massage chair underneath you. lol

Would it be better to go with the AMS urethane type or Boomba solid?
Urethane for street/DD definitely. Solid will vibrate more and never "settle"/break in, there'll be no dampening whatsoever.

Try to use the urethane ones with the stock mounts. The only one you may want to change would be the rear mount as a modular aftermarket one makes for easy working down there.
Yea. Best part is with AMS you can buy the entire mount as a unit instead of paying a shop to press a new bushing in. Costs a little more but then it's a direct unbolt/bolt swap (takes 30 mins MAX) and you can undo if you don't like it and sell.
 
#9 ·
Stocks mount bushings will crack over time. Lord knows mine started cracking within an year of ownership and zero mod/racing. The biggest benefit is the tighter feel they(aftermarket versions) provide. You basically avoid a lump of metal in your engine bay from dancing around as much leading to a muddied feel of the car. Although you do it at the expense of comfort.

You can just do bushings, there is no need to do the whole mount unless you want to avoid having to deal with a press for the bushings etc.
 
#11 ·
Stocks mount bushings will crack over time. Lord knows mine started cracking within an year of ownership and zero mod/racing. The biggest benefit is the tighter feel they provide. You basically avoid a lump of metal in your engine bay from dancing around as much leading to a muddied feel of the car. Although you do it at the expense of comfort.
My truck is the same way. It's a fairly easy way to prevent a potential disaster down the road
 
#12 ·
Try to use the urethane ones with the stock mounts. The only one you may want to change would be the rear mount as a modular aftermarket one makes for easy working down there.
 
#25 ·
Solids will transmit a shit ton more noise into the cabin. I'm not talking about vibrations, just sound. I have the Boomba Front solid mount and my god did I start hearing my engine.

Rear mount is a bitch to install. Dunno much about the other two.

Also, IIRC, AMS Red is rated 90 in stiffness, the black is 70.
 
#28 ·
The Torque Solution front motor mount and driveshaft bushings are being delivered today. Combined with the Whiteline Rear Diff Bushing already on the car, I'm anticipating some added vibration (hopefully not over-optimistic) and a virtual lack of drivetrain movement :)
Cuz as of now, this girl is a bucking bronco, lol
 
#29 ·
I have the AMS front mount, TS side bushings, TS driveshaft bushings, and AMS rear diff bushings. The car does vibrate at idle (not too bad), but the sound when accelerating is amazing, I feel like im in a rally car. Will the rear motor mount add more vibration? and who does them?
 
#35 ·
I will for sure! I also ordered the Whiteline front and rear 27mm adjustable sway bars and Whiteline Endlinks so I hope this will help a lot! Does anyone currently have these on their ride now?
 
#34 ·
Exactly. First few weeks you get a little more vibration, at first you go "WTF did I do???" then they break in and settle and you don't even really notice it anymore. The benefit, to me, is worth it. The initial vibrations, with 70A mount at least, was very little regardless. You get the same vibration in the car with just a Tomei exhaust I think - haha.

Now add tomei exhaust and cams and you have quite a massage chair underneath you. lol

Dude I have a Tomei exhaust and cams WTF are you trying to say!!!??? JKJK LOL!!
 
#40 ·
Im not sure where you can find out I am having a full motor build and transmission build so everything came out and I didnt have to worry about it sorry man! Ask NukeRJ he would know.
 
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