AWC PUMP FAIL Compilation
41 - 60 of 218 Posts
Joined
·
79 Posts
Why would you want to go and buy one of these used? Its pointless. They are all failing anyways. Complain to Mitsu. My car was 10k out of bumper to bumper warranty as they said this does NOT get covered under drivetrain.
They were good and replaced the pump, and I had to pay 264 in labor. Regardless, this is better than the 2200 for the pump in addition to the labor costs. This will become a recall if more people keep bringing major attention to mitsubishi. If you end up paying for it and later it becomes a recall, you should be reimbursed.
They were good and replaced the pump, and I had to pay 264 in labor. Regardless, this is better than the 2200 for the pump in addition to the labor costs. This will become a recall if more people keep bringing major attention to mitsubishi. If you end up paying for it and later it becomes a recall, you should be reimbursed.
Joined
·
636 Posts
Call/text me what dealership covered it please. For $264 in labor i will get this done ASAP.
Joined
·
162 Posts
Please forgive me for hijacking. I'm just checking. Is it only extreme cold climates that bust these things? Or does extreme heat also cause problems for these? I don't expect to run into these issues in Socal, but I do venture to the deserts from time to time.
Joined
·
266 Posts
Just to add my 2 cents. I live in a climate where it is below 20C for 5-6 months of the year and can get to -40C without windchill.
I am on my 3rd pump. My first replacement was covered under warranty my second one wasn't. I haven't had my car in almost a year. Otherwise I would be on my 4th.
I am on my 3rd pump. My first replacement was covered under warranty my second one wasn't. I haven't had my car in almost a year. Otherwise I would be on my 4th.
Joined
·
714 Posts
Guys,
I am working on sourcing a replacement motor as we speak, along with a newly machined pump housing/coupling with an o-ring to better protect against corrosion. The motor is the primary source of failure in the colder climates (corrosion is a long term problem as well). The oil gets so thick that it's difficult for the motor to turn the pump, which in turn over loads the motor. This, along with operating in extremely cold temps, will eventually demagnetize it and cause it to lose torque, which just makes the problem even worse. It quickly goes down hill from there. I've done some testing on the OEM motor to characterize it and have spec'd out one with much more torque and lower operating temperature capability. I'll keep you guys updated as I get closer to getting one together.
I am working on sourcing a replacement motor as we speak, along with a newly machined pump housing/coupling with an o-ring to better protect against corrosion. The motor is the primary source of failure in the colder climates (corrosion is a long term problem as well). The oil gets so thick that it's difficult for the motor to turn the pump, which in turn over loads the motor. This, along with operating in extremely cold temps, will eventually demagnetize it and cause it to lose torque, which just makes the problem even worse. It quickly goes down hill from there. I've done some testing on the OEM motor to characterize it and have spec'd out one with much more torque and lower operating temperature capability. I'll keep you guys updated as I get closer to getting one together.
Joined
·
266 Posts
Good to hear something is happening, but I am of little faith at the moment. It seems rediculous that the ATF fluid is freezing, considering you don't have this problem when the ATF fluid is used for transmission.
Its too bad its a combination of multiple issues, none of which mitsu will deal with.
Its too bad its a combination of multiple issues, none of which mitsu will deal with.
Joined
·
714 Posts
Well, the problem isn't the ATF, it's that the motor was undersized for the application. The motor is fine at 70F. Probably fine at -20f too. It has enough torque to pump the oil at those temps. But at -40f, well that most likely just stalls the motor or only allows it to turn very slowly while overloading the motor. Over time this will demagnetize it and cause irreversible damage. Automatic transmissions don't have this problem because they design for those temp ranges. Mitsubishi (or rather Nachi) did not. This to me is the biggest issue with this pump. Corrosion takes a few or more years to set in, super cold climate can kill a pump in a year or less as evidenced in this thread. Regardless, after tearing into a couple of these things, it's clear to me what the issues are and what can be improved.
Joined
·
227 Posts
Joined
·
227 Posts
Wow that sucks man! This is the first 2010 I've seen with a blown pump. You have hella miles on that thing!
I got mine fixed yesterday, pump was just under $1700, labor was like $350. The service guy felt bad for me(basically he was pissed at how much Mitsubishi charges for the pump). He gave me over $400 off, so when you add in the ATF fluid and tax, it was just over $1800. I also got my old pump back so I can have it rebuilt if this happens again.
In the end I'm really disappointed mitsu used such a bad design for this. They put the most amazing ayc system in these cars, yet put an underpowered, overpriced hydraulic pump right behind the rear wheel well. F-ing stupid! I'm just glad to have mine fixed now and should be good for a couple years at least.
Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
Joined
·
31 Posts
Girl actually, but yeah it sucks. I have a long commute to work everyday. Living in Wisconsin and with the seasons going from one extreme to another, I'm sure it took its toll on the pump. I was quoted the same exact price that you were. I will also be rebuilding the original pump as well.
Joined
·
636 Posts
Can either of you share where/how you'd get the pump rebuilt?
41 - 60 of 218 Posts
