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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As above, what have you found to be the best cure for understeer in medium speed turns, ie 40-70 mph?
 

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Aggressive early apex and then power-on very soon, swings the rear end out every time. Experiment with the ABD still on (ASC one touch off).

Also cool to experiment with AWC modes, on the GSR flicking the button to gravel or snow in certain corners can make the car understeer less, given the right situation.
 

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i never had understeer on the track, had my ass end break loose so i guess that was oversteer. Although things were going so fast im not sure, but i think my rear left wheel clipped the dirt on the edge of the track.
 

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Roll centre kit and rear roll bar, i also found stiffer rear damping helped :)
 

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I never went to a track completely stock, always had a perrin rear sway bar. Definitely don't get understeer. Oversteer is perfectly controllable with that bar and nothing more.

Going to revalved bilsteins on swift spec-rs soon though.
 

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Like the people above said.......REAR SWAY BAR
 

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RSB + Driver Mod (as in more practice)
 

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The car on stock suspension does have a slight midcorner steadystate push that is made worse by overcharging the corner. Stiffer rear bar helps, more front camber also.
 

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break a little more before turn-in, and then get back on the throttle earlier, but carefully so you can throttle-steer on the way out. You'll have better control on the way in and if you get on the throttle right before apex, you can convert the understeer into a bit of oversteer and take a more aggressive angle. Only works with ACS off and it takes some practice, but when you get it down, its glorious :) Also ensures you're fully spooled before you're back on the straight so you'll be in a better position to defend
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Chassis mods not allowed in my race class, so I guess I'll have to practise getting the back out!
 

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You can always play with tire pressure too if youre having issues. Ive never had much push in my evo, but drop the fronts a few psi and see what you end up with. A better solution is to buy a laser thermometer and see what is happening with your tires and adjust air accordingly.
 

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It depends on your driving style really. If you want oversteer when you turn the wheel look to the suspension, rear sway, camber, etc. If you trail brake like I do, you don't need much in the way of suspension. I have too much oversteer now and I am dialing out oversteer because I usually use trail braking to get my car to rotate. But that is how I drive and it works for me and gets results.

How you setup up your car depends on you...the driver.

If it is a class thing try tire pressures and trail braking. Enter a corner much hotter than you would normally, hit the brakes while turning in and then taper off of the brake like you would throttle steering, I often go all the way through apex faster than others and I am modulating the brakes the entire time. It takes some getting used to but after a few spins and over braking you will get used to it! To do it right you have to get used to braking on the edge and carrying enough speed to make up for the braking...if you do it at conservative speeds you will be slower. It is good fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can always play with tire pressure too if youre having issues. Ive never had much push in my evo, but drop the fronts a few psi and see what you end up with. A better solution is to buy a laser thermometer and see what is happening with your tires and adjust air accordingly.
I had considered having a couple of psi more in the rear and a couple less in the front, a bit like stiffening the rear and softening the front..........
 

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It depends on your driving style really. If you want oversteer when you turn the wheel look to the suspension, rear sway, camber, etc. If you trail brake like I do, you don't need much in the way of suspension. I have too much oversteer now and I am dialing out oversteer because I usually use trail braking to get my car to rotate. But that is how I drive and it works for me and gets results.

How you setup up your car depends on you...the driver.

If it is a class thing try tire pressures and trail braking. Enter a corner much hotter than you would normally, hit the brakes while turning in and then taper off of the brake like you would throttle steering, I often go all the way through apex faster than others and I am modulating the brakes the entire time. It takes some getting used to but after a few spins and over braking you will get used to it! To do it right you have to get used to braking on the edge and carrying enough speed to make up for the braking...if you do it at conservative speeds you will be slower. It is good fun!
this

don't be afraid to be aggressive on the throttle. too many people forget about our AYC and the wonders it can do with the AWC. This isn't a RWD where early-throttle will always spin you out :shades:

I disagree with most people saying you NEED a rear sway bar or even a looser rear-end. it's just a driving style choice and I don't want tail-sliding shinanigans at all. precision driving for me
 

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This is a front heavy awd car... you need to TRAIL BRAKE into corners or at least breath the throttle going into corners to transfer a little weight to the front end for turn in. Once the car is actually turned in and you've almost reached the max steering wheel angle for the turn (your foot should still be on the brake slightly at this point) you NEED to quickly swap over to throttle to provide at least maintenance throttle if not more. Otherwise the diff's (including the center) will not be functioning correctly.

Driving with a torque vectoring rear diff can be a little counter intuitive as normally when you begin to apply more throttle (smoothly) you increase understeer because weight is transferring rearward BUT because the front wheels are set off axis they can "thrust vector" (not the same as what the rear diff does) to help yaw the car WHILE the rear diff is helping yaw the car at the same time.

This yawing action really does help counteract the inherent understeer you normally find in an awd car without a twin propshaft transaxle setup like the gtr. Work on your driving technique before you try to modify the car!
 

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^I think this is more like a conventional AWD theory with a car that has a viscous center and a mechanical rear.

Better to get off the brake and on the throttle sooner. We don'y need to worry about conventional logic of plate LSD or viscous type diffs being "loaded" properly. That's not the way this system works and we are literally independent of load in terms of how the diffs lock. The ACD is open most of the time we have hard turning with high G's. That means more understeer since the diff does not want to lock until the turn is complete. It's all about the early apex.

The AYC is countering this understeer by pushing power to the outside rear. This is largely independent of accel and decel states, and is determined by steering angle and speed. When we turn early and keep our hands fast, the AYC is going to be aggressive. When we go on throttle, we want the turn to be as completed as possible in order to insure more lock on the ACD and most of the power getting to the ground.

GTR is awful at this, I don't know how anyone can think that system is better than the SAWC. It is primarily trying to limit oversteer by pushing power up front, which is nice for slides and showing off but it's not the fastest way to go. 50:50 splits usually suck for turn in but the AYC makes up for this, trust it. 50:50 makes far more sense for grip, braking, and general traction.

Look at how bad the GTR is compared to the Evo in handling tests, ask any racer which has more grip. Going RWD until you get into problems and pushing power up front is a hail mary play at best.
 

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As above, what have you found to be the best cure for understeer in medium speed turns, ie 40-70 mph?
More throttle:thumbup:
 

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I feel like there is conflicting info here, some people are talking track, others are talking auto-x. Not all the same principles apply between the two, I think in Auto X a rear sway bar makes a huge difference through a lot of those tight corners. On track, perhaps it's not as necessary.

It's important to have our car set up for the application at hand. The X will excel at either.
 

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I feel like there is conflicting info here, some people are talking track, others are talking auto-x. Not all the same principles apply between the two, I think in Auto X a rear sway bar makes a huge difference through a lot of those tight corners. On track, perhaps it's not as necessary.

It's important to have our car set up for the application at hand. The X will excel at either.
:+1:

since you said that chassis mods are not allowed, i think the best thing is to get more seat time to get a better feel for how the chassis reacts to different inputs
 
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