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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on installing AMS TMP cams along with a set of Kelford Single Valve Springs (KVS11, 75lbs). I have read through a lot of information regarding aftermarket billet Mivec housings but still unsure of what the general consensus is. Does anyone know if they are still required for valve springs that are 75lbs or less? I don't want to end up with a cracked exhaust cam gear and then have a serious problem, but I have also read about people having some issues with them and then just ended up going back to OEM again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you know what the seat pressure is for those GSC beehives? GSC's website says 75/72 but I have also seen some different numbers. I wonder if the specs have been changed.
 

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Just wanted to jump in here and share some experiences with you guys.. You'll see some product listings stating that the OEM housings crack and to be completely honest we have yet to see a single housing crack, a really good friend of mine was using X manufacturers Billet housing and it stuck when he was getting tuned on the dyno, we swapped it out for a new one thinking it would solve the issue and the replacement one actually locked up. So after this we switched him into Y manufacturer just in case there was another issue going on and the same thing continued to happen. At that point we had him put the OEM one back on and absolutely zero issues whatsoever, the car is fully built and making over 900 awhp on our T4 twin scroll kit with a set of Ferrea dual valve springs and S2 cams so the head is fully built as well. From my experience there just is no need to run these housings as they will potentially cause more issues than they'll supposedly solve.
 

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Just wanted to jump in here and share some experiences with you guys.. You'll see some product listings stating that the OEM housings crack and to be completely honest we have yet to see a single housing crack, a really good friend of mine was using X manufacturers Billet housing and it stuck when he was getting tuned on the dyno, we swapped it out for a new one thinking it would solve the issue and the replacement one actually locked up. So after this we switched him into Y manufacturer just in case there was another issue going on and the same thing continued to happen. At that point we had him put the OEM one back on and absolutely zero issues whatsoever, the car is fully built and making over 900 awhp on our T4 twin scroll kit with a set of Ferrea dual valve springs and S2 cams so the head is fully built as well. From my experience there just is no need to run these housings as they will potentially cause more issues than they'll supposedly solve.
I was told a similar story. I am also to believe that very aggressive MIVEC settings, as well as oil pressure issues is really what drives these OEM housings to break. The billet covers create more of a band-aid effect than addressing the real issue which would be a minute loss in oil causing under-pressured housings, which in turn causes the cam ears to smack the housings. Then, of course, this causes the crack.
 

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I was told a similar story. I am also to believe that very aggressive MIVEC settings, as well as oil pressure issues is really what drives these OEM housings to break. The billet covers create more of a band-aid effect than addressing the real issue which would be a minute loss in oil causing under-pressured housings, which in turn causes the cam ears to smack the housings. Then, of course, this causes the crack.
You are absolutely correct, and you also have to account for the kind of tolerances that are involved in theses products. If the tolerance is off by even the slightest bit it will cause more issues as well. I'd almost say it's like putting a slightly wet off brand band-aid on something haha

I agree with you entirely, I'm willing to bet that there are way more factors involved that resulted in the initial "OEM housings cracking" that prompted the product to even be made in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You are absolutely correct, and you also have to account for the kind of tolerances that are involved in theses products. If the tolerance is off by even the slightest bit it will cause more issues as well. I'd almost say it's like putting a slightly wet off brand band-aid on something haha

I agree with you entirely, I'm willing to bet that there are way more factors involved that resulted in the initial "OEM housings cracking" that prompted the product to even be made in the first place.
Well that's good to hear. I was thinking that I need one but then read about the issues people were having with them. OEM housing it is.
 

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I love forums. My friend who is a professional race engine builder brought up that I should check to see if people delete the mivec when you get in the 1,000 crank area. I found threads of cam gears cracking and went down a rabbit hole. I was so nervous with recent delays in parts that I may not make my dyno date if I wait for upgrades to come in..... sheesh I'm on 15 weeks for my drive shaft and will have to go on the dyno with oem. This thread then completely wipes out my panic and negates the previous threads. Ah I can breathe again.
 

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I love forums. My friend who is a professional race engine builder brought up that I should check to see if people delete the mivec when you get in the 1,000 crank area. I found threads of cam gears cracking and went down a rabbit hole. I was so nervous with recent delays in parts that I may not make my dyno date if I wait for upgrades to come in..... sheesh I'm on 15 weeks for my drive shaft and will have to go on the dyno with oem. This thread then completely wipes out my panic and negates the previous threads. Ah I can breathe again.
A lot of people delete MIVEC on the exhaust side due to the cam and spring combo. Due to the oil issues mentioned above, the MIVEC system has a hard time keeping the cam in place when it's activated. You'll see on very aggressive cams, like the GSC S3, that they suggest setting MIVEC to 0 degrees or using a delete housing. It's entirely possible to use MIVEC in that range if you can keep oil pressure reliable. Most who shoot for over 800WHP just fix the housing/control and degree that cam to shine up top, where most of the power comes in anyway on large turbo/700+WHP builds.
 

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A lot of people delete MIVEC on the exhaust side due to the cam and spring combo. Due to the oil issues mentioned above, the MIVEC system has a hard time keeping the cam in place when it's activated. You'll see on very aggressive cams, like the GSC S3, that they suggest setting MIVEC to 0 degrees or using a delete housing. It's entirely possible to use MIVEC in that range if you can keep oil pressure reliable. Most who shoot for over 800WHP just fix the housing/control and degree that cam to shine up top, where most of the power comes in anyway on large turbo/700+WHP builds.
I did just purchase the delete. When I was on magnus site I could only find information so when I built it I was thinking they discontinued them. I ordered the exhaust delete and Tomei cam tool. My tuner wants me to swap catch cans, I overlooked crank case pressure. So the cars coming home for a week or two. I have the AMS TMP cams for now. Having a tough decision since the tuner shop said they aren't familiar with the TMP and they have the best results with GSC S2. So they said go switch cams without saying switch cams lol.

I have a 3584rs going for 700-740whp, 1mm over, Beehive, ported head, sleeved 2.0
 
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