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Discussion Starter #1
can someone please post up, if you will, what a "good" boost map should look like? my stock reactive wgdc map looks like this, and all i did was reduce it by 40% or so for the gs 3 port and i was told its too steep. this is the stock untouched map btw.
 

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if I compare it to mine yours are very high
It's better to get it tuned by a good tuner, otherwise you will lose your engine
go with Kris ( clipse3gt ) :+1:
 

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If you cut the values in your screenshot in half, then you will have a SAFE starting point for the 3-port. I think you can highlight all cells, use "/2" in the expression box and hit enter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just to clarify - those are the stock untouched values you are seeing. i already safely cut the values in the map i am using. im using an otherwise stock map but with reduced wg values. the "problem" im having is that i reduced them as recommended and checked them against my boost gauge and am showing about 20-21lbs of boost before it tapers off. someone that does tuning - on this forum - said my values were too steep. i didnt make them this way, they just look that way after reducing them. i would just like to see how other peoples maps look so i can compare them. this is my map that im using right now.
 

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You're using 3-port right? You're going to have to really mess w/tweak the values, i.e. really blend/shape them since the Reactive Maps are the only "solenoid" maps in play. With the stock setup, the blocky reactive was fine because the passive maps are also used which provide a "rough" shaping. Think...combined profiles of the two maps making a nice smooth profile. Minus one of them and all of a sudden, you are left with jagged edges. That's what the "other tuning guy" was getting at. Going from 0-37 to 42 to 47 to 53 in solid blocks isn't really what you're aiming at.

Maybe start with zero'ing the whole map and doing a run to see what WG pressure is netting you, and then tune backward from there. Remember this directly controlling a target load or PSI or anything in here but rather the WGDC. It's the part throttle parts of this map that are kind of annoying to mess with...maybe people have better ideas/methods than me!

Thanks!
verkion
 

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You aren't going to find a specific value that will fit your application. You really need to dial in the WGDC to YOUR car.

Set your Reactive Solenoid Max Total Upward WGDC Correction vs TPS to 0 and get your boost curve close to where you want it. Then set the values back to what they were before to enable positive corrections. Also remember the corrections will have to be reduced as well as the 3-port is so much more free-flowing (more responsive). There are several different parts that also need some tweaking, reactive corrections, intervals, etc. If you don't know what you are doing it is time to pay someone.

Most people won't post up the maps as they are usually considered intellectual property.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah i was hoping someone would share this one particular map because in the end, its really only affecting the boost pressure, right? i mean, its not like stealing someones hard work with their a/f ratios and timing numbers - at least thats how i figured it to be. im not going for extra power or anything like that, i just want it to be smooth like it was with the stock boost controller. :/
 

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yeah i was hoping someone would share this one particular map because in the end, its really only affecting the boost pressure, right? i mean, its not like stealing someones hard work with their a/f ratios and timing numbers - at least thats how i figured it to be. im not going for extra power or anything like that, i just want it to be smooth like it was with the stock boost controller. :/
If you leave the other tables stock and only change the reactive and disable the passives you could have boost control issues. The stock corrections can be to aggressive for the 3-port. You could end up with a boost curve that looks like this...

 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you leave the other tables stock and only change the reactive and disable the passives you could have boost control issues. The stock corrections can be to aggressive for the 3-port. You could end up with a boost curve that looks like this...

lol, yeah i know what you mean. boost comes on quickly right now and it doesnt do anything too crazy as i can tell by the gauge. i played with it a little when the weather was warmer and i could make it boost differently, but then it felt like the boost was coming on in increments. i want that smooth feeling again. it doesnt spike at least, so thats a good thing. i cant wait to get the wideband installed so i can just get a good overall tune finally.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oh and i should mention, i dont want to use someones map, i just want an idea how it should look.
 

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I new I still had them, take a look. This was when I was dialing in my boost when I first installed my 3-port. This was with stock TBEC and intervals. I set my boost curve then turned corrections back on and this is what happened. As you can see, the stock correction values were too aggressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I new I still had them, take a look. This was when I was dialing in my boost when I first installed my 3-port. This was with stock TBEC and intervals. I set my boost curve then turned corrections back on and this is what happened. As you can see, the stock correction values were too aggressive.
yeah i see that. for what its worth, it was spiking when i first installed it as the suggested 35% reduction wasnt enough. i think the final numbers ended up being like 43% or so. but i dont like the way the numbers look. all zeros and then boom! a jump to 20 and higher. just doesnt seem right. would i be wrong to change those initial zeros to like, lets say a 5 and then sloping up to the 20?
 

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yeah i see that. for what its worth, it was spiking when i first installed it as the suggested 35% reduction wasnt enough. i think the final numbers ended up being like 43% or so. but i dont like the way the numbers look. all zeros and then boom! a jump to 20 and higher. just doesnt seem right. would i be wrong to change those initial zeros to like, lets say a 5 and then sloping up to the 20?
You are trying to fix the overboost the wrong way. The 10% max upward is getting you I bet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You are trying to fix the overboost the wrong way. The 10% max upward is getting you I bet.
i think im being misunderstood, lol. i followed all the threads i could find and followed grimmspeeds directions about lowering the reactive tables for the install of the 3 port. thats all im trying to smoothen out. i havent touched any of the load tables or anything like that. just the ones i was told to lower for the install. i dont think i did it wrong... did i? lol
 

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i think im being misunderstood, lol. i followed all the threads i could find and followed grimmspeeds directions about lowering the reactive tables for the install of the 3 port. thats all im trying to smoothen out. i havent touched any of the load tables or anything like that. just the ones i was told to lower for the install. i dont think i did it wrong... did i? lol
You cannot get the boost running right only altering the reactive WGDC...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You cannot get the car running right only altering the reactive WGDC...
so lowering the passives to 0 and then lowering the reactives arent all that you do then? i just want it close to stock again until its tuned. lol
 

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What Silicon is trying to tell you is that the upward error correction (set-up for the stock "slow" boost control solenoid) is too aggressive (for the "fast" 3-port). By the time the ecu catches up you are already past your target.
Yes you 0 out the error to set-up the curve you want for WGDC, but then you need to re-apply the error correction settings. Except the "+" values are too much, so you should cut them in half....at least. I don't have any error correction in the top two cells (but that's cuz I use an extremely aggressive means of spool, MIVEC).
 

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When I try to be direct, people think I am trying to be an ass...thanks for presenting that in a form we can all appreciate. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yeah that i had read about when i was researching it. it was the original reason i was getting a crazy spike and i got that under control. boost is steady and doesnt spike anymore, but it was pointed out to me that the curve was too sharp. all im trying to do is smooth that curve out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
When I try to be direct, people think I am trying to be an ass...thanks for presenting that in a form we can all appreciate. ;)
oh its all good, i get what youre saying, im just saying that it wasnt made to sound that painstaking when you read the threads or even grimmspeeds ad where it says "can be easily tuned in minutes" or something like that. :thumbup:
 
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