Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stoptech: Emits very little dust, easy to clean. Less bite and friction compared to stock. Will last longer than stock.

Ferrodo 2500: The next step to upgrading stopping power from stock. Will emit slightly less dust than stock, again slightly. Provides a little more friction compared to stock.

Project MU Club Racer (Race Pad): Good entry level race pads. Price is OK, lower than the higher end pads as you would expect. Provides significantly more bite than street pads. They are noisy when cold. Emits a lot of dust. A bit harsh on rotors if you have a powerful car and brake hard. (TI shims recommended if tracking)

Project MU HC+ 800 (used in the rear): Decent double duty pad. They dont like alot of heat, will glaze if tracked hard. Price is good for a pad with good bite, will not be good as a front pad on our heavy cars. (TI shims recommended if tracking)

Carbotec XP12 (Race Pad | Streetable): Awesome bite, awesome stopping power. Emits a lot of dust but is very easy to clean. Dont make much noise even when cold. Not too hard on the rotor. If you make over 420whp, when you wear the pad down under 40% they will over heat if tracked hard, even with TI shims, our cars are very heavy.

G-LOC R18 The next pads I'm using. I will update this post after a few track days.

:thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Thanks for the review! What was your experience with noise on the Project MU HC+800? I ran these on my S2000, but wasn't able to use them on street because of the amount of noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the review! What was your experience with noise on the Project MU HC+800? I ran these on my S2000, but wasn't able to use them on street because of the amount of noise.
They did make noise but not alot. If they make alot of noise they are glazed. I would not use them in the front at the track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If brake pads are noisy, they're not cleaned and lubed correctly.
Thats the case sometime. And if by cleaned you mean clean the years of brake dust build up, maybe.

Most of the time when you have noise it is either the pads aren't bedded in correctly or the pads are glazed.

Some racing pads make noise when cold point blank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks man. The 2500 has a little bit different pad material. Its a little better than the OEM ones. Remember the oem have to be mass produced. Then you pay brembo tax.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,345 Posts
This is a great review. Unfortunately it came after i spent 300 millions on a set of oem Brembo's which says in the box made by Ferrodo. I've heard the same thing before buying it; But in regards of your post when u mentioned Ferrodo 2500 u meant to say the OEM's?
Lol, that was silly of you. I never get OEM brakes after mine are done... overpriced stuff. They are good though, but still overpriced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
^This

I ran endless MX72 pads for awhile...they were impressive.

Also, on a car we sponsor, we installed Raybestos st43s. They are pure insanity.
I know you love driving the car, especially on good rubber!



The Raybestos ST43 Pads are bananas when it comes to throwing out the anchors!

They will rip the fillings out of your teeth. They take very little to get to temperature - great for autocross and last a good amount of track days as well. They are a tad noisy when cold but a good stomp heats them up fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,345 Posts
Are Raybestor ST 43 rough on rotors or the pad material is what takes the hit?
 
Joined
·
5,198 Posts
Are Raybestor ST 43 rough on rotors or the pad material is what takes the hit?
Rougher on rotors than street pads but not rough for an endurance pad. Like most race pads, they will eat the rotor more when not up to temp (most street driving). When up to temp they last a long time and aren't that hard on rotors for their performance level.

It's probably the best "race pad" in that regard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,345 Posts
Got it, so not a good DD pad. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
^This

I ran endless MX72 pads for awhile...they were impressive.

Also, on a car we sponsor, we installed Raybestos st43s. They are pure insanity.
My buddy runs those pads on his X MR, they work great for him. He is only making 280whp so IDK how it would work with alot more power.

I use ST47 front and ST43 rear on my Evo 10 with R-Compounds.

It stops all day long but the ST43's on the rear are like insanity loud:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM-Kgt_FD_g
Thats an awesome combo. I considered it before buying the G-Loc's. Hopefully these pads are the last set I need for a 6 piston BBK, which is in the works :shades:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Trying to update original post with the following...

(the following info was added after my experience with G-LOC pads) So I learned a lesson when using a real race pad that can withstand high heat and a lesson for pads in general. The pad hardness must be matched with rotor hardness for best performance. To make it brief, Pads that take massive heat IE GLOC r16 R18, Raybestos ST45 ST47 etc must be used with hard high quality rotors ie: Brembo, AP, Stoptech ARK etc. Pads like the G-LOC R8 R10 Project Mu club racer can be used with most rotors. I used a coleman rotor with a G-LOC R18 and even though the pads didnt over heat the brakes still faded cause the rotos overheated. The bite wasnt very good either. After I noticed the problem on a few track days, I was told by Danny at G-LOC that the Coleman rotor would not work with that pad, but like any other budget racer, i had no choice but to continue use.

***When I mention a race pad is streetable, it is meant in a way that the driver should be aware they very light braking is not good, try to get heat into the pads and block off ducts.

** I started using RT700 brake Fluid with the GLOC and Raybestos. Before that I was using Motul 600. Which I dont reccomend, pedal feel sucks. Use RT700, Prospeed, Brembo or Endless. Those are my personal recommendations.

Stoptech (Street only): Emits very little dust, easy to clean. Less bite and friction compared to stock. Will last longer than stock.

Ferrodo 2500(Street | Light track use): The next step to upgrading stopping power from stock. Will emit slightly less dust than stock, again slightly. Provides a little more friction compared to stock.

Project MU Club Racer (Race Pad | Streetable): Good entry level race pads. Price is OK, lower than the higher end pads as you would expect. Provides way more bite than street pads. They are noisy when cold. Emits a lot of dust. A bit harsh on rotors if you have a powerful car and brake hard. (TI shims recommended if tracking)

Project MU HC+ 800 (Street | Light track use): Used these in the rear with the PMU CR Fronts. Decent double duty pad. They dont like alot of heat, will glaze if tracked hard, happened to me. Price is good for a pad with good bite will not be good as a front pad on our heavy cars.. (TI shims recommended if tracking, even though i reccomend not tracking with them on a heavy car)

Carbotec XP12 F XP10 R (Race Pad | Streetable): Awesome bite, awesome stopping power. Emits a lot of dust but is very easy to clean. Dont make much noise even when cold. Not too hard on the rotor. If you make over 420whp, when you wear the pad down under 40% they will over heat if tracked hard, even with TI shims, our cars are very heavy.

G-LOC R18 (Race Pad | Not Streetable) I cannot give a 100% accurate review on this pad. (See above posted info) The pads can take ALOT of heat. I never over heated the pad, I actually over heated the rotor cause the material is to soft. They are absolutely not good for the street, they ate my soft ass coleman rotor up LOL. They are very loud under hard braking.I cant really give an opinion on bite since I was using the wrong rotor. I can tell you despite having the wrong rotor they still stopped the Rhino and didnt boil the fluid.

Raybestos ST45 (Race Pad | Shouldn't Street Drive) I learned my lesson. ST45's square matched with Stoptech ARK rotors. This has been the best combo so far. Very easy to bed in, they take alot of heat (never boiled brake fluid) the bite is awesome and the pedal is pretty progressive. I have used this combo at like 6-7 track days. They have been amazing. I have street driven a little bit with them with not issues but it hurts to do so cause it starts eating away that perfect blueish transfer on the rotor when they are bed in.
-I also have an interesting point to make. This brake combo is always great, but there are times where they feel AMAZING. I have to test it next track day but it seems the way i get them to temp may play a role in this. On 2 occasions i remember having to apply less brake pedal pressure and had shorter stopping distance and more bite, if i figure it out exactly, oh my oh my will i get faster!

:thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
(the following info was added after my experience with G-LOC pads) So I learned a lesson when using a real race pad that can withstand high heat and a lesson for pads in general. The pad hardness must be matched with rotor hardness for best performance. To make it brief, Pads that take massive heat IE GLOC r16 R18, Raybestos ST45 ST47 etc must be used with hard high quality rotors ie: Brembo, AP, Stoptech ARK etc. Pads like the G-LOC R8 R10 Project Mu club racer can be used with most rotors. I used a coleman rotor with a G-LOC R18 and even though the pads didnt over heat the brakes still faded cause the rotos overheated. The bite wasnt very good either. After I noticed the problem on a few track days, I was told by Danny at G-LOC that the Coleman rotor would not work with that pad, but like any other budget racer, i had no choice but to continue use.

***When I mention a race pad is streetable, it is meant in a way that the driver should be aware they very light braking is not good, try to get heat into the pads and block off ducts.

** I started using RT700 brake Fluid with the GLOC and Raybestos. Before that I was using Motul 600. Which I dont reccomend, pedal feel sucks. Use RT700, Prospeed, Brembo or Endless. Those are my personal recommendations.

Stoptech (Street only): Emits very little dust, easy to clean. Less bite and friction compared to stock. Will last longer than stock.

Ferrodo 2500(Street | Light track use): The next step to upgrading stopping power from stock. Will emit slightly less dust than stock, again slightly. Provides a little more friction compared to stock.

Project MU Club Racer (Race Pad | Streetable): Good entry level race pads. Price is OK, lower than the higher end pads as you would expect. Provides way more bite than street pads. They are noisy when cold. Emits a lot of dust. A bit harsh on rotors if you have a powerful car and brake hard. (TI shims recommended if tracking)

Project MU HC+ 800 (Street | Light track use): Used these in the rear with the PMU CR Fronts. Decent double duty pad. They dont like alot of heat, will glaze if tracked hard, happened to me. Price is good for a pad with good bite will not be good as a front pad on our heavy cars.. (TI shims recommended if tracking, even though i reccomend not tracking with them on a heavy car)

Carbotec XP12 F XP10 R (Race Pad | Streetable): Awesome bite, awesome stopping power. Emits a lot of dust but is very easy to clean. Dont make much noise even when cold. Not too hard on the rotor. If you make over 420whp, when you wear the pad down under 40% they will over heat if tracked hard, even with TI shims, our cars are very heavy.

G-LOC R18 (Race Pad | Not Streetable) I cannot give a 100% accurate review on this pad. (See above posted info) The pads can take ALOT of heat. I never over heated the pad, I actually over heated the rotor cause the material is to soft. They are absolutely not good for the street, they ate my soft ass coleman rotor up LOL. They are very loud under hard braking.I cant really give an opinion on bite since I was using the wrong rotor. I can tell you despite having the wrong rotor they still stopped the Rhino and didnt boil the fluid.

Raybestos ST45 (Race Pad | Shouldn't Street Drive) I learned my lesson. ST45's square matched with Stoptech ARK rotors. This has been the best combo so far. Very easy to bed in, they take alot of heat (never boiled brake fluid) the bite is awesome and the pedal is pretty progressive. I have used this combo at like 6-7 track days. They have been amazing. I have street driven a little bit with them with not issues but it hurts to do so cause it starts eating away that perfect blueish transfer on the rotor when they are bed in.
-I also have an interesting point to make. This brake combo is always great, but there are times where they feel AMAZING. I have to test it next track day but it seems the way i get them to temp may play a role in this. On 2 occasions i remember having to apply less brake pedal pressure and had shorter stopping distance and more bite, if i figure it out exactly, oh my oh my will i get faster!
***Update on ST45 rears: after going through a set of fronts, i found that the rear ST45 were almost new. I am not getting enough heat in the rear to get the pads to work nor do i have enough rear bias)

SOOOOOOOOOOO...
I have found to what I believe is the ultimate combo on the Evo X for brake pads. Between Speed Freaks USA and myself, comparing experiences and looking at data,(thanks Matt!!!!) i am done testing pads. :D

Raybesto ST47 Front | Porterfield R4-1 Rear (Race Pad | Shouldn't Street Drive) The ST47s are the perfect aggressiveness for me. They are more aggressive than the ST45 and the modulate exactly how I like it. My last time out I found I need new deeper braking reference :cool: Not much else to add. They are amazing. And matched to a new rotor, perfection.
Now im sure you are wondering why I am using a R4-1 rear pad. Simple, It comes on hard at low temps. They dust hard to. Actually I get more rear dust than the fronts. I found the car so much more balance with rear pads that actually bite. Based on my rotor and caliper temps, this is exactly what i needed to compliment the heavy hard working front.

So this is probably the last update to post #1. I have found the combo i have been searching for!
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top