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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to make a separate regarding my warranty claim and the adventure that was in a few weeks, but for now I would like to discuss breaking in a brand new factory long block (heads, cams, crank, pistons, rods) and turbo. I have read the other threads on it, and I am well aware of this proper break in method (posted in a thread a few down, I have owned many motorcycles). However, this would be my first opportunity to have an engine with absolutely zero miles on it.

Here lies my dilemma, I am assuming the techs are going to drive it a few miles after it is installed (assuming), but let us assume they dont. Cross referencing the AMS sheet concerning break ins, they say to avoid an overly rich mixture. Well that's not going to fly, because the stock tune on these motors is absolutely pig rich.

ALSO, I am assuming they will be giving me a motor will full synthetic in it, and that is balls for break ins. I plan on getting some AMSOIL break in oil. And for the cams, I am not entirely too sure what to do about that? Sit in the parking lot of the dealer and hold the revs and 3 grand? lol...As you can see a huge opportunity to start this car off on the right foot, but plenty of room to fuck it up. I feel that these opporunities from mitsubishi are very rare, and I would like to take full advantage of the results.
 

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If it's a new factory long block, it's probably mostly broken in already and has been run at the factory. I would assume your next step would be just follow the typical mitsu break in procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it's a new factory long block, it's probably mostly broken in already and has been run at the factory. I would assume your next step would be just follow the typical mitsu break in procedure.
Yeah I talked to the service guy and he said it was. However. This is a 2008 with a now 2012 motor. I wonder what definitions I should use?

Side note he said change the oil at 7500 which I find INSANE. 3k thank you very much
 

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I had mine replaced last week..I have a 2010 gsr and they gave me a 2011 block and internals..the last time I was easy on it for break in..this time I'm going though the full rpm range up to 6k rpms so far..I plan to change the oil at 1k and put in amsoil synthetic. I am already 500 miles in on the oem mobile 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Actually I have been reading your thread that's what kind of prompted this really. I guess the biggest concern is whether it is pre broken in or not. I know when I get replacement engines for.the car I race (rx8 motor) that it comes from Mazda not broken in.
 

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It's a good question. IMO they sell these cars to not only us enthusiast, but to common everyday dumb ppl. If it's coming from mitsu I'd say it was probably pre broken in, mazda probably didn't break it in bc you were racing and prob had your own preference. Btw. I have a secret love for rx7-8. Dont tell anyone I said that though


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The paranoia in this thread is baffling.

You say Stock motor with a JB turbo? Just get a good Zn Po based engine oil like the Amsoil DOM/Z-Rod and call it a day. You really do not need anything else. Mile intervals can just be every 3K miles. The Majority of stock block evo's keep it simpler than even that and they do just fine.
 

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JB= Journal Bearing (as opposed to BB= Ball bearing)
 

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And yes I am paranoid lol. But I don't believe it is unfounded
I don't question your paranoia at all. Its the others who get all fizzy reading about others' experiences. I honestly think you will be fine doing what I mentioned in the earlier post. BTW, the only reason I suggested the specific oils is because JB and cams etc benefit a lot from those kinds.

Don't put too much thought into this and just try to enjoy the car. If you stress out too much about every little thing because your engine went bad once, you will seriously not enjoy the car at all.
 

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Side note he said change the oil at 7500 which I find INSANE. 3k thank you very much
I probably wouldn't with an Evo, but in actuality many newer model cars have suggestions in their owners manuals for oil changes in this time frame. It makes sense though, we're getting better at engineering motors and oils so it would follow that maintenance would decrease. Again wouldn't recommend it for an Evo, but if you've bought another new car recently check out your owners manual just to be sure. You might be paying a lot extra to have it done too often. That said I'm pretty sure most of us would agree that "too often" when it comes to oil changes doesn't exist, but try going a little further on it once and see how the oil comes out. you might be surprised.

Hold on I'll post up the article. Don't have a link, but I did save it on a :mswerd:
 

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3,000 Miles? That's Your Father's Oil Change

It's funny (...not really) how long it takes us to throw off the burden of old wive's tales and urban myths. These days, it pretty much goes without saying that many automotive enthusiasts still live and die by the 3,000 mile oil change. Whether you change the oil yourself or religiously take it to your mechanic to be done, you know you are "looking after" your ride.

Well, a lot has changed since that kind of oil replacement interval was justified, including engine design and oil technology. Back in 2007, Ford Motor Company revised its oil replacement interval recommendations, following extensive fleet and laboratory testing. For 2007 or later model vehicles, the company increased the interval from 5,000 miles (8,000 km) to 7,500 miles (12,000 km).

There are benefits for almost everyone in following the manufacturer's oil change interval guidelines. For the driver, savings up to $600 result from the new schedule. If you're still blindly following the 3,000 mile period, you're paying for twenty more oil changes than you need to.

While synthetic oils are highly favored among the enthusiast set, regular mineral oils are also much better than they used to be. There are three important components involved. First is the base stock. This may be mineral or synthetic oil. Second is the additive package. A lot of progress has been made in this area, as well. The third, and equally important component, is the oil filter and it only in the last few years that significant progress has become evident.

In interviewing more than one technical executive at different oil companies, I have been told that synthetic oils can easily outlast a conventional paper cartridge filter. While nobody is saying to ignore the car manufacturer's maintenance recommendations - because you could end up with warranty issues - the potential for 15,000 mile oil changes is very real these days.

At least two popular synthetic oil brands now sell oil filters to go along with their products. Royal Purple says that outside the vehicle's warranty period, a 12,000 mile oil change schedule can be used for normal driving conditions. Amsoil promotes either 15,000 or 25,000 mile change intervals, according to the filter and driving conditions.



Potentially even more useful are some recent cartridge filters that can be cleaned and reused. Unlike conventional oil filters, this design uses a stainless steel filter media that can deliver significantly higher flow than a paper media filter. More responsibility now falls on you to ensure that the needed maintenance is done, but you may never have to buy another oil filter again.

The only potential losers in these developments are the quick oil change kinds of stores. You know, the ones that make it oh-so painful to do the right thing for your ride. Their maintenance interval recommendations typically have little to do with technical requirements and more to do with their financial requirements.



Now, all of this presumes that your driving habits and conditions fall under the "normal" category and not that of severe duty. What is severe duty? Check your vehicle's Owner's Manual and see. The actual incidence of severe duty driving is pretty rare, so don't overthink the situation.

If you think there is reason to change your oil early, check it and see. Pull the dipstick, clean it and put it back in. Carefully pull it out again without letting the tip touch anything in the engine bay. First, check the level - this should be done when the engine is warm. Running low, or out of oil, is a lot worse than changing it prematurely.

So, how does the oil look? Clean and golden? Great. Close the hood and go for a rip if its a nice day. You're done.

Does it look clear but dark(er)? Not a problem. The detergents in the oil are doing their job by getting dirt and soot away from engine components and keeping it in the oil. Dark oil is not bad oil, just oil that is getting the job done.

Does it look opaque and dark? Rub some of the oil between your fingers and see if there is any obvious problem. Smell it for any hint of gasoline or a burnt smell.

Does it look like coffee with double cream? That's not good. Anti-freeze is getting in there. Get it to your mechanic right now, or risk losing a main or rod bearing.

So, when you stick to a 3,000 mile oil change schedule, it's not a "treat" for your car. The only one being treated is the store you bought the oil from or the shop that is changing it for you. The additional demand for oil doesn't help the economy, nor does the burden of disposing of that oil as waste. You probably wouldn't change out a set of tires that still had ten or fifteen thousand miles left on them, so don't do it to your oil.

Now, if you really feel the need to "treat" your ride, when was the last time you got new wiper blades? Change those out and you'll still be money ahead.
 

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^
While that's interesting to read it certainly does not apply to the EVO X engine.

I have been doing waste oil analysis for over three decades now on every car I have owned and the EVO X engine always shows between 3 and 6% fuel residue in the engine oil - with between 2500 and 3500 miles on the oil sample. Every other automotive engine I have taken samples from has always shown less than 1%. About 40% of those samples have been taken from turbocharged engines so, according to my test results, there is NO correlation between the rich running of turbo engines and increased fuel in the oil. It's all in the tune and the sealing ability of the upper rings when the engine is cold.

So if your engine has the same fuel residue in the oil as mine does, it's no longer oil after 3-5K miles. And using a 7500 mile change interval is asking for serious trouble.

Bottom Line: Take periodic engine oil samples and have it tested. Define your maintenance schedule intervals according to test results - NOT according to the odometer or calendar.
 
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