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What I really want to know is what color does it change to???? Cuz the factory one changes like 3 colors, red, orange and green. What does yours change too?????????
 

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how does the factory ones change?..... ive not seen a button that does it...
 

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how does the factory ones change?..... ive not seen a button that does it...
It only changes for certain messages. Normal operation is red and maintenance messages are yellow, but I have not seen green before...
 

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Green for "go"ing to crash?
actually mine goes purple now ;)

Dude i am so into that... i haate the red color on that s%^t!
and here i thought i was rice for doing this ;)

What I really want to know is what color does it change to???? Cuz the factory one changes like 3 colors, red, orange and green. What does yours change too?????????
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it still turns amber too andrew. There are two sets of leds burried deep inside the body of the lcd screen. 6 red and 6 amber. When mixed they turn greeeeeeeeeeeeeeeen :) ps you did an outstanding job on the a-pillar! when i ever get around to installing my gauges and renovating my x's interior ill be sure to upload pix.

ok now for the fun stuff... before i say anything just head this warning. THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NOT EASY AND REQUIRES TIME ,PATIENCE, AND SOME DEGREE OF ELECTRICAL KNOW HOW. IF YOU BREAK ANYTHING WHICH THERE IS A VERY VERY GOOD CHANCE YOU WILL.. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IN THE EVENT YOU RUN TO MITSU TO GET A REPLACEMENT 650$$ CLUSTER LOL. ok now that that is out of the way i feel all better :)

Ok lemme point out a few major hazards of this project:

1) this requires disaasembly of the entire gauge cluster... which require needle removal. once the needles are removed they have to be calibrated to be in sync with the corresponding numbers on the tach and speedo. in other words... once u pull the needles off you have to fondle with them until they accurately display your speed and rpms... i did this using a Dashhawk. I had it left over from my previous car (a mazda). Its a information screen that displays car diagnostics and trouble codes. fortunately out of the 40+ parameters it can show are rpm's and speed (according to the ecu). I also tested this by going on the highway 60mph on cruise control with my friend driving next to me. He confirmed i was right on the money :) Worst comes to worst if you want you can always ask a cop to radar you and tell you your speed. Im sure theyd be happy to help you out as your asking them to make sure "your driving at the appropriate speeds at all time"

2) when you finally finish tearing the instrument cluster into the jungle of parts it is, you need to start disecting the lcd screen. In the lcd screen there are multiple layers of diffuser films that scatter the light evently. U have to remove that and there is a very good chance of ripping or scuffing this film. If you rip this film you are in short fucked as the light will not scatter evenly and the images on the lcd will be distorted. If you get dirt of finger prints on this film in will show up when the lcd is on ... i used tweezers ftw :)

3) the lcd and all the corresponding electrical boards are electronic devices.... with that being said static electricity can fry your board. make sure you are grounded at all times.

4) this project is not something you could finish in a few short hours, this is something you start on a saturday morning not a monday evening

ok now for the "how to" part of it

required tools :

Plcc-2 leds. Make sure they are 20ma. (90 percent of all plcc-2's and 0603 leds i have ever seen are use 20ma of current.. this is a good thing as it means that they most likely match the oem ones so no new resistors are needed) 2.1-2.2 v

a soldering iron(home depot, radio shack, wallmart it doesnt realli matter)

clean table to perform this operation on

solder for the soldering iron

a gun incase you fail miserably (to save yourself the pain of blowing 650 bucks on a new cluster :duh:)


First start off by removing the oem gauge cluster. Its held in by a few screws and easily comes out. Afterwards start by unclipping all the sections. They are all held together by clips. Once this is all done you are left with the middle white piece attached to the circuit board and the gauge face in the front. This part is nerve recking as you feel like its going to not end well.. if your carefull it will... take two spoons and apply even pressure to each side of the needle. Eventually the needle will "pop" off. You will have to give it more effort then u think as these needles are really tightly mounted. Make sure the pressure is even on both sides or u WILL bend or break the shaft that spins the needle... if that happens well... youll be going to mistu very unhappily :( After the needles are both off remove the gauge face...It just slides right off. Now you need to remove the plastic light diffusers for the tach and speedo backlights. They pop right out. Next you need to get yourself a toothpick.. the two backlights for the tach and speedo are connected to the circuit board via springs. Springs = metal which = conductivity ;) You simply have to go from the back of the circuit board and push these springs out slows and evenly. Eventually they wiggle out. Once this is done the whole citcuit board frees in self from the plastic housing (white piece) now you finally have access to the lcd screen. Notice the ribbon cable on the bottom of the lcd screen.. carfully pull the 2 black tabs on each side downwards.. this will release the "flat orange paper like cable". Next start by removing the 2 other cables on either side. After all this you have finally unhooked the lcd congratulations.. but the fun has yet to begin. Now that the lcs is free from the circuit board... you have to take deep breaths as the next steps must be all done quite delicately. Start by pulling of the cable harness for the lcd. Their are two plugs and its pretty self explanatory. The ribbon cable and the white cable remain untouched. Next you have to carefully unclip the lcd from the white little housing that sits on the circuit board. Underneath the actual lcd is a layer of light diffuser films. Make sure you plce the lcd you un clipped into a dust free environment as so it doesnt get dirty. (very difficult to clean once it has finger oils on it) Now this is the most difficult part of this procedure... use an xacto knife to slowly peel the ends of the light diffusing film. Its a black tape on both sides and comes of when carefully pealed.once you do this make sure you place that film in a safe and secure place. Underneath you shall see 2 more diffuser films.. they fall right out when flipped upside down... remember the order they are in and place them with the film u removed. Now after all this work you finally made it to the end. There are now 2 little circuit boards on each side of the lcd housing. Unclip them carefully and you see 6 plcc-2 leds on each one. Half are amber and half are red. You want to desolder the red onces ( i opted to keep the amber as i like it). remember both sides have 3 red 3 amber so you will be working with both miniture circuit boards.

(note: when you solder plcc-2's.. make contact with soldering iron less then a second as i learned the hard way they are UBER SENSITIVE AND WILL BURN OUT IF HEATED ENOUGH.

once ur done just plug in the cable that connects to the lcd backlights into the main circuit board and test it out. Once you verified it works.... well start the fun all over again and put it all back together... :workout::theeye:

after you verify you calibrated your speedo and tach and everything is working perfectly well.. pat yourself on the back and roll yourself a nice sized blunt as you just earned it :)

Pictures of most of the stuff is below. Note i didn't take pictures of the lcd screen as i didnt think id be making a how to :duh:

any questions or if you feel like this is overwhelming but still want it done pm me and we can work something out :thumbup:
 
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