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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Background info:

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=331849

Removal complete:

Took 45 minutes. I followed this guide:
http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=4&tech_id=4&osCsid=b84650e8d15503ce6f5c77616b84523f

The X is exactly the same. One inportant thing to note is that it might not be neccessary to completely remove the slave cylinder from the vehicle. I did remove it, and then couldn't find the CDV. I then looked at my drip pan and sure enough it was there. So simply removing the banjo bolt completely might allow it to fall out. The CDV in the X is Plastic with a metal spring.

Impressions:

Keep in mind that I have only driven 10 minutes with it, but engagement is much more linear to me. I can now shift without any jerky movement.

I will post my impressions as time goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
nice writeup. Did you replace the line with a braided line? or did you simply re-attach the original clutch line?

This will be on my list of: THINGS TO DO....

Used original line for now....when I upgrade the clutch I'll change the line out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Something unrelated but yet good to know....the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs are one in the same.
 

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One thing to note on this:

Keith (Turbotrix) and I were talking about this a while back (removing the pill restrictor). But what he, and a lot of people haven't noticed is what *MIGHT* be another restrictor in the line itself. I'm waiting until our prototype ACT comes in to do it, but if you follow the line from the master cylinder to where the two lines connect, you'll see a cylinder in the first line.

I'm guessing that this is a second resistor in here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey guys,
I've driven the car for some time now and have a little update. I will post again in a week to see if my impressions have changed.
With the CDV out, the 1-->2 notchy shift is completely gone when the tranny is warm. In fact the only shift that has any more notchiness to it is the 2-->3 shift.

The 2-->3 shift is better but still a little sticky. Please keep in mind that I never had that much of a nocthiness issue from the beginning, sure it was notchy (more so when cold) but never made me miss a shift and never caused a grind.
Speed shifting is a non issue. I can shift without letting off the throttle if I desire.

launching (moderate launch):
Still smell clutch, still having a difficult time finding a good slip rate to get a good brisk launch yet not get the smell.

Overall clutch feel:
Here's where I'll get a little technical. I will preface this by stating that I am in no way a mechanical engineer or clutch expert. I do however have tons of clutch removal and overall experience.
There still feels to be a large transition from full disengagement to full engagement. What do I mean by that? Well, from a stop I can feel the clutch start to grab very early on...maybe 2" off the floor. When cruising, you simply need to depress the clutch maybe 1-2" from the top of the clutch pedal stroke to get it to slip.
This tells me that the clutch disk may have ALOT of marcel to it. Marcel is the wavy spring material between the friction surface and the actual clutch disk hub. The marcel is designed to cushion loads, and make it easier to slip the clutch. This is great for novices, but really bad for enthusiast.
To understand this, think of the first time you went from a stock clutch to a race clutch...didn't you notice how the race clutch had more of an off/on feel to it?
Mitsu, in my opinion, has chosen to design the clutch so even your 80yr old grandmother or 15yr old brother can equally drive the car smoothly.
So for all you X owners, pay attention to the clutch pedal stroke and when it starts to engage and when it it full engaged. Also check to see where it starts to slip while cruising. You will see what I'm talking about.
I believe this is what makes it difficult to launch. As the pressure plate starts to clamp, we slip the clutch, add throttle to go, but guess what, because of the marcel, the pressure plate is not fully clamped until almost completely at the top of the clutch pedal stroke. that is why we smell the clutch.
I am hoping ACT will chime in and confirm my theories...someone invite them to the thread would ya?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys,

Well I've driven for 4 days since my last impression post. I take back what I've said. The 1-2 shift still notchy! 2-3 still notchy as well. Launch is better though...slightly.

I have contacted Mitsu corporate and they want me to bring the car in. I urge everyone with tranny shifting issues to contact Mitsu corporate ASAP to get the ball rolling. While it may not seem bad, I feel that it might be wearing the syncro's hub/sleeve, so this might cause long-term damage.

I also notice that downshifts are much smoother than upshifts...whatever that means.

At this time I have to re-insert the CDV so that Mitsu won't use it against me. I will most likely take it back out as I feel the pedal is more linear without it.
 

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I can totally agree with what you said about the clutch having a huge gap between full on and full off. Honestly it throws me off more then helps me lol.... probably because the only other manual cars I had driven were an old miata and my 3g eclipse with a spec clutch.... sooooooooooooo different.

edit: Wow I clicked th link to evom.... first time I went there... and last. Jumping down everyone's throat at the first chance -.-;
 

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I haven't driven an X yet, so I can't really comment on the stroke of the clutch engagement. However, It very well may be adjustable.

As for the fact that the clutch is sprung being the culprit, I don't necessarily buy that. Every clutch I've ever owned (puck clutch or OEM) has always been sprung, and the stroke required by the pedal was reasonable. I'm no clutch expert, but I don't understand how the springs could have a significant impact in the required stroke of the clutch pedal.

For those of you not familiar with what we're talking about, here's a picture of a standard sprung clutch:

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Kool,

I didn't mean the springs themselves. I was talking about the Marcel material that sits between the friction surface and the clutch disk hub. You can see by looking at the side of the disk like this ||



I don't know how else to explain it. ACT did comment that the X clutch disk does not seem to have anymore marcel material than the IX disk.

I am starting to think that the long stroke is due to the pivot arangment of the pressure plate.
 

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Hey guys,

Well I've driven for 4 days since my last impression post. I take back what I've said. The 1-2 shift still notchy! 2-3 still notchy as well. Launch is better though...slightly.

I have contacted Mitsu corporate and they want me to bring the car in. I urge everyone with tranny shifting issues to contact Mitsu corporate ASAP to get the ball rolling. While it may not seem bad, I feel that it might be wearing the syncro's hub/sleeve, so this might cause long-term damage.

I also notice that downshifts are much smoother than upshifts...whatever that means.

At this time I have to re-insert the CDV so that Mitsu won't use it against me. I will most likely take it back out as I feel the pedal is more linear without it.

yeah downshifts are way better than upshifts...i scheduled my evo to be seen by the dealer next friday i'll post an update on that fix....if they will fix anything lol
 

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I'll have to check this out...

Also, bump for the seven year old thread.
 

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hmm i wish i read this b4 I got my clutch changed.. Iwould have probably took the restrictor off. either i at driving this car or most ppl have same issues as me getting the consistent smooth shifts?? any other car i drive i can easily shift gears with smoothness
 

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Not only you wouldn't be consistent with shifting if pill is still in, you are wearing your clutch much faster. I had my clutch pill removed at 20k kms, I am at 150 now with stock clutch still in place.

Also, it's easy to remove under the hood, just do it. takes like 40 mins with bleeding.
 
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