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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my ACT sprung 6 puck w/HD pressure plate for almost 8k now on full bolt ons. Same experience as everyone else that has it (chattered a bunch at first then it goes away a bit as well as you learn to engage it better in 1st).

However, I just started developing a whine. It started several weeks ago on the highway when I decided to drive w/o music on the highway ride home. Wasn't very loud, but it was there. The pitch increases with speed not necessarily RPM (shift gears and at same speed the pitch is the same). Then it sort of went away...really have to listen for it and it's not in all gears...usually 4th and 5th. This to me is normal, but it only started after Import Showdown (May 1st drag strip competition) where I launched it 4 times. So...yeah.

Then today happened...I gave it a few WOT 6k RPM shifts (1st thru top of 3rd). After releasing the throttle in 3rd I left it in gear to engine brake the car a bit. That's when a whirring sound started coming from what I perceived to by the engine bay. I came to a red light and tested out my theory (does it only happen when I engine brake/ zero throttle?). No sound whatsoever in 1st gear...then in 2nd-5th it happens when car is in gear, not engaged and decelerating/under no load.
Is my TOB going bad? When I give the car even 10% throttle the noise goes away. I tried recording it, but my phone recorder sucks...I'll take a video with my digital camera to see if it is any better quality.
After reading everyone's horror stories, I want to nip this in the bud. If I have to have the tranny off, then it may make sense to send some parts off to Jack...
 

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do you feel the whine in the pedal or feel it in the stickshift? i know it sounds funny, but an input shaft bearing or a cross shaft bearing that is going out, will whine at first and then vibrate at a high frequency. you can usually feel it in the pedal or the stick when this starts to happen.
 

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Can you get a video, or is it too faint? I bitched about my Spec 3+ noise and no one seems to have a clue. =P
 

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Discussion Starter #6
do you feel the whine in the pedal or feel it in the stickshift? i know it sounds funny, but an input shaft bearing or a cross shaft bearing that is going out, will whine at first and then vibrate at a high frequency. you can usually feel it in the pedal or the stick when this starts to happen.
Great question. I almost want to say both because it's coming from right under the firewall. I had a friend drive it last night and he said the clutch seems just fine. He is not a Evo X expert at all, but has lots of 8/9 experience and thinks it is the center diff. Maybe it's a bit misaligned or 'loose' (I'm clueless so this doesn't make sense to me).

I'm taking it by TopSpeed today to see what they think. I'll take a video w/sound too on the way and upload it.
 

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Full face Spec 3+ mated to MAP aluminum (with replaceable face) flywheel.

My old setup was ACT 6 puk and OEM flywheel, and it made the same noise. You can also feel a high frequency vibration when it happens. Again, if you revved the motor a little more, it would not do it. It's more prevalent when taking off uphill or in reverse.
 

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Great question. I almost want to say both because it's coming from right under the firewall. I had a friend drive it last night and he said the clutch seems just fine. He is not a Evo X expert at all, but has lots of 8/9 experience and thinks it is the center diff. Maybe it's a bit misaligned or 'loose' (I'm clueless so this doesn't make sense to me).

I'm taking it by TopSpeed today to see what they think. I'll take a video w/sound too on the way and upload it.
you can rule out tob very quickly with the car sitting at an idle. tob's will make noise while you idle, then, when you hit the clutch pedal, the whine will disappear. a tob makes no noise almost any other time.
as for the other noise, how many miles do you have on your trans fluid? is it stock fluid? sounds to me like you have a bearing going out in the diff. one of the cross shaft bearings. i need to see an exploded view of the diff to be sure, but thats what its sounding like to me - unless the diff is low on oil... first thing id check is the oil level and condition. you may get away with a slightly heavier oil or using a new oil. but when you do check the oil, check to see if its glittery with copper or brass.
 

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Full face Spec 3+ mated to MAP aluminum (with replaceable face) flywheel.

My old setup was ACT 6 puk and OEM flywheel, and it made the same noise. You can also feel a high frequency vibration when it happens. Again, if you revved the motor a little more, it would not do it. It's more prevalent when taking off uphill or in reverse.
im gonna say its normal then. sounds to me like its the friction material of the clutch disc mating up with the flywheel. one more question - does it do it any more or less when its warmed up or hot?
 

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Actually, it almost never does it once it's warmed up. Unlike my old 6 puk ACT which would get worse when it got hot. Actually, the ACT would even slip when it tried to ascend a hill while making that noise. I know how to drive a standard VERY well, but that clutch only held up like 8k miles on moderate horsepower (400 crank-ish).

The Spec never loses grip, but the noise is HIDEOUS when it happens. It's just hard to capture on video, I tried this morning.
 

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Actually, it almost never does it once it's warmed up. Unlike my old 6 puk ACT which would get worse when it got hot. Actually, the ACT would even slip when it tried to ascend a hill while making that noise. I know how to drive a standard VERY well, but that clutch only held up like 8k miles on moderate horsepower (400 crank-ish).

The Spec never loses grip, but the noise is HIDEOUS when it happens. It's just hard to capture on video, I tried this morning.
yeah it sounds like its the type of material thats making it groan. i bet its not an organic clutch but probably has the copper strands in it. clutches and brake pads are a lot alike. you know how "high performance" brake pads make lots of noise till they are warmed up? clutches are the same way. theyre meant to be fully warmed up before theyre abused on.
 

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Yeah, I agree with ya man. It is not causing any malfunction. And if I let the car idle and warm up, it won't do it, even on the initial take-off that it usually would when cold. And the disc looks like this (metallic):

 

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my spec 3 6 puck looks the same as the full face you have. mine does a slight chatter when its cold and then it goes away. mine is a little bit more magnified though because nissan uses a stupid rubber mounted carrier bearing on the drive shaft so the chatter is magnified when i let out the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
you can rule out tob very quickly with the car sitting at an idle. tob's will make noise while you idle, then, when you hit the clutch pedal, the whine will disappear. a tob makes no noise almost any other time.
as for the other noise, how many miles do you have on your trans fluid? is it stock fluid? sounds to me like you have a bearing going out in the diff. one of the cross shaft bearings. i need to see an exploded view of the diff to be sure, but thats what its sounding like to me - unless the diff is low on oil... first thing id check is the oil level and condition. you may get away with a slightly heavier oil or using a new oil. but when you do check the oil, check to see if its glittery with copper or brass.
You hit it on the head. The shop said the t-case is hosed.
The mileage on the car is 31k. I planned on doing the fluid change at 30k but haven't gotten to it. The case had never been opened until the shop took a look at things (so OEM fluid). I'll ask the shop your questions and see if they can snap a pic or two.
Since the bearing is probably trashed is a rebuild from Jacks transmissions the best course of action if it's salvageable? I don't want the diff pin issue to arise after everything is put back. A rebuild is 1/2 the cost of a used t-case so I'd like to go that route.
 

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You hit it on the head. The shop said the t-case is hosed.
The mileage on the car is 31k. I planned on doing the fluid change at 30k but haven't gotten to it. The case had never been opened until the shop took a look at things (so OEM fluid). I'll ask the shop your questions and see if they can snap a pic or two.
Since the bearing is probably trashed is a rebuild from Jacks transmissions the best course of action if it's salvageable? I don't want the diff pin issue to arise after everything is put back. A rebuild is 1/2 the cost of a used t-case so I'd like to go that route.
The diff pins they fix are in the tranny (if you didn't know). But it is certainly the time to get it done. I'd send it all to Jack's, maybe you'll get a multi-discount ;)
 

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You hit it on the head. The shop said the t-case is hosed.
The mileage on the car is 31k. I planned on doing the fluid change at 30k but haven't gotten to it. The case had never been opened until the shop took a look at things (so OEM fluid). I'll ask the shop your questions and see if they can snap a pic or two.
Since the bearing is probably trashed is a rebuild from Jacks transmissions the best course of action if it's salvageable? I don't want the diff pin issue to arise after everything is put back. A rebuild is 1/2 the cost of a used t-case so I'd like to go that route.
well thats good and bad... good that you have a direction, bad that it might be expensive. im ok with rebuilds if theyre using oem or high quality parts during the rebuild. ask them where they get their parts from and ask to see the old parts when theyre done.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The diff pins they fix are in the tranny (if you didn't know). But it is certainly the time to get it done. I'd send it all to Jack's, maybe you'll get a multi-discount ;)
Yes, the diff pins are in the tranny...forgot about that. So, I'm wondering if a used ACD is ~$1600 and a tranny rebuild is ~$1200, which should I do. I need both and it makes sense to do both while we're there labor wise, but more downtime plus extra cost sucks....decisions, decisions.
 

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Yes, the diff pins are in the tranny...forgot about that. So, I'm wondering if a used ACD is ~$1600 and a tranny rebuild is ~$1200, which should I do. I need both and it makes sense to do both while we're there labor wise, but more downtime plus extra cost sucks....decisions, decisions.
The the ACD rebuildable?
 
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